buzzing in the exhaust

[Kenshin X]

Pete. if thats the case, I will take my money back. but I'm a Guy who will give people a chance to rectify their mistakes. but if along the way, if it cracks for whatever reason, u can b sure ill be there to get my money back.

[ben yip]

Pete. if thats the case, I will take my money back. but I'm a Guy who will give people a chance to rectify their mistakes. but if along the way, if it cracks for whatever reason, u can b sure ill be there to get my money back.

Agree with Pete, also, I want to share with you a recent trick I learn from youtube to test whether the exhaust can go rusty

Bring a magnet with you, if it sticks, dun use the exhaust pipe, because it will rust fast

[Kenshin X]

Bring a magnet with you, if it sticks, dun use the exhaust pipe, because it will rust fast

wait... magnet still sticks to stainless steel right...? SS doesnt rust unless i'm been taught wrongly years ago <_<

[Charlie Trout]

Bring a magnet with you, if it sticks, dun use the exhaust pipe, because it will rust fast

wait... magnet still sticks to stainless steel right...? SS doesnt rust unless i'm been taught wrongly years ago <_<

Stainless should not have much iron in its composition, so either its a very low quality stainless or just mild steel (if the magnet sticks).

It's also a common misconception that stainless doesn't rust. It can corrode just like most other materials particularly in a warm moist environment that exhausts can be (particularly on short trips).

Edited July 4, 2011 by Charlie Trout

[Kenshin X]

yep, just researched on this, this is true. looks like i'll be bringing a magnet with me when i come next time...

[White Lightning]

my exhaust guys (although they have a reputation for being dodgy i still stand by them) always spray all welds with rust resistant paint to prevent any exposed metal from rusting... i reckon it LOOKS like ***** but I understand why and this alone is the reason I go back there... if an exhaust tests over 96DB they will modify it and won't let it leave the shop...

they do the right thing and this is the first time i've had a problem out of 7 cars I've taken to them... and they fixed it straight away... they even told me that I didn't need to fix my flex pipe even tho it was cracked, and that in itself made me want to do it because they were trying to keep my costs down...

I'm also a firm believer in letting ppl rectify their mistakes and good for u for giving them a chance, now its up to them to make sure they do you right...

[dutchie101]

Give people a chance if they try to do it right the first time. Trying to get away with that work is a joke. End game.

[ben yip]

Bring a magnet with you, if it sticks, dun use the exhaust pipe, because it will rust fast

wait... magnet still sticks to stainless steel right...? SS doesnt rust unless i'm been taught wrongly years ago <_<

No, you are incorrect, GOOD stainless steel does not corrode, many cheap quality stainless steel mix with high amount of iron

http://www.surefloexhaust.com.au/g3ss.htm

409 steel are cheaper, 304 is much more expensive

http://www.5min.com/Video/T-409-and-T-304-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Review-195165236

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?479063-FYI-difference-between-T409-T304-stainless-steel

http://www.fordforums.com.au/printthread.php?t=11198045&pp=50

My exhaust is expensive, $800 for a cat back, however, when I inspect the car last week, the pipe turns brown, makes me to believe they are using cheap 409..

but it comes with 10 YEARS WARRANTY against rust and faulty workmanship..

I have asked them, they said it is using 304

I am not living in the coast, so not a major problem

According to the article

T-409 is good for peoples who live where there are no calcium or where the

corrosion is not a problem.

T-304 is for north american and canadian peoples who want to keep their

cars for more than 3 years in a corrosive environment

Edited July 5, 2011 by ben yip

[Kenshin X]

ok this is getting way over my head. -_- I'm going to give then one chance to fix it. if any reason in the future another problem arises, ill ninja their ball sacks.

[Pro86]

a good 304 SS mid pipe will set u back around 1grand and the muffler place i got my exhaust from everyone saw the work is done on it is excellent even my one is not a SS mid pipe.

$250 is just too good to be true..

anyway hope u solve all the problem soon

[CHA54]

2.5" 304 grade polished 1.6mm wall tubing is $20/m. Matching 304grade 90deg mandrel bends are $22ea. Stainless Magnaflow rear muffler is around $250, 6" round magnaflow center muffler is $150-180, 2.5" 3-bolt stainless flange kits are $60-80. Should take about 3-4 hours for an experienced workshop to knock up a cat-back exhaust, all TIG welded, at about $60-100 an hour depending on the workshop. You do the maths.

The quality of the stainless used has very little impact on the overall cost of the system.

Edited July 4, 2011 by CHA54

[Kenshin X]

put my car on the hoist today and went around with the magnet.

the striaght parts of the pipe the magnet didn't stick but where the mandrel bent pipes were the magnet grabbed a little. not as much as the mild steel I got at home though. regardless the mild steel I got here hasn't rusted through yet and that's been 8 yrs. I assume this one will last a longer

can't really fault the quality of the steel they used for the price I paid.

[CHA54]

the quality of the stainless used in Aus isn't really that important. It's not like you're driving on salted roads seasonally.

[ben yip]

put my car on the hoist today and went around with the magnet.

the striaght parts of the pipe the magnet didn't stick but where the mandrel bent pipes were the magnet grabbed a little. not as much as the mild steel I got at home though. regardless the mild steel I got here hasn't rusted through yet and that's been 8 yrs. I assume this one will last a longer

can't really fault the quality of the steel they used for the price I paid.

Congratulations !!! so you feel power up now?

[Kenshin X]

put my car on the hoist today and went around with the magnet.

the striaght parts of the pipe the magnet didn't stick but where the mandrel bent pipes were the magnet grabbed a little. not as much as the mild steel I got at home though. regardless the mild steel I got here hasn't rusted through yet and that's been 8 yrs. I assume this one will last a longer

can't really fault the quality of the steel they used for the price I paid.

Congratulations !!! so you feel power up now?

no i havent fixed it yet ben LOL! i've booked it in for the saturday after... today i was at another place which hoisted my car up... :P

[Kenshin X]

the quality of the stainless used in Aus isn't really that important. It's not like you're driving on salted roads seasonally.

this.

[Kenshin X]

well i got my exhaust looked at by the guys there again on saturday, they cleaned up the welds.

not trusting their workmanship i took it to another reputable exhaust place today for them to look at it. the guy said he couldn't find any leaks with the stethescope.

win!

the only thing he said he would have done was lifted the pipe abit higher and the hook on the varex looked disgusting but other than that, he reckons the TIG welds between the pipes are satisfactory and the welding on the flanges are satisfactory.

i then asked him why the soapy water bubbles when we sprayed on it and he said that with the pressure from blocking the exhaust, the air needs to go somewhere. the tiniest hole will push out the air and hence the bubbles. so we lowered the car again and left it at that.

however, the "buzzing" at high RPM is still there. which i really dont mind as it doesnt happen when i drive normally or with the varex closed.

i read up a bit though that the 2.5 inch pipe for an NA 1.8L is too big but there has been constant proof on this forums that the 2.5 is good for the 2zz-ge engines. so what else could be causing the buzzing? maybe i should chuck in a magnaflow resonator so it eliminates the buzzing sound?

all-in-all 250 bucks for this piping is good. i believe i got it bang for my buck exhaust. i still wouldn't recommend them to anyone though because of their attitude problem

[ben yip]

good on you !!!

However, I still cannot imagine the "buzzing" sound

I don't know much about the argument between 2 and 2.5 exhaust size.. No concrete evidence so far

[Kenshin X]

Finally, stupid buzzing/farting honda noise is gone!

2 hot dogs put in the cat back :) car is more quiet on idle and high rpm it roars rather than farts.

[RedSportivo]

Congrats did the extra hot dog, make yo loose any power at all?

[Kenshin X]

nah its deep throat sound at high rpm... no power loss, u need to create abit of back pressure anyways to get rid of the fart.

[johnnieboi]

Now more smoother loud rather than angry fart loud.. haha