Anyone still getting 1st-2nd shifting problems?

[lucio_libre]

I found a little trick in my Corolla. Hit the rev limiter in every gear and you land in lift all the time. I guess every car is different, but this works for my car 100%. It always lands at 6400-6600.

[Northy]

this will actually slow you down, as soon as you hit the limiter you are not moving foreward anymore, so it would be more effective you be able to land in lift without hitting the limiter.

[MR22ZZ]

Personally I'd rather pay for a new clutch then a new gearbox!!!

It has been discussed many time before that slipping the clutch is the best technique to stay in lift. Takes some practice, but when you have it perfected, the feeling is sweet!!! Tyre chirps every time (1-2) :D :D :D :D :D

[influx]

i have never had shifting problems before or after HD clutch.

i have just had the gear box replaced due to glass synchros and cross misssions

under warranty.

i was only having problems shifting down from 3rd to 2nd then when toyota took it apart several teeth from 5th 6th and 3rd and 2nd syncmesh badly worn. i never had a problem with any other gear just between 3rd down to second.

they still didn't tell me a price though when i asked for if i have to replace out of my own pocket?

i know though the c-one cross mesh is approx 5k

i think i will talk to the peeps at ?PAR to sought a dog box setup.

[CHA54]

why the hell would you want a dog box in a street driven FWD?

Just learn to drive properly.

[ZEEROLLA]

Lucio - i used that method in the past when my gear shifter was stuck at high revs and only hitting the rev limiter releases it for me to shift smooth and quick, and i used to land 1-2 LIFT 9/10 times. But what Northy said is also true, hitting limiter can impede the car's forward progression so you can sometimes end up having less road speed than say shifting before hitting limiter. It is a hit or miss thing with the rev limiter.

Actually ever since i got my clutch/flywheel/wheels/tyres i only landed 1-2 LIFT once and the tyres never screeched or chirped, just lost traction and you could feel it. Maybe its te tyres or wheel/tyre combo weighing heavier all up compared to the old wheel/tyre. Don't forget the old rims were 16x6 and Turanza tyres look lighter than my yokies now.

But anyway i went for a drive again today to practice and i never grind or crunched 2nd today. I never had issues with 3-2 downshifts or any other gears except occassionally 2-3 upshift hen i rushed it. I put it down to me trying to shift too fast with a very firm hand on the shifter, slamming into 2nd. The gearbox has let me know it doesn't like it Now i have a much looser grip and i shift slower, feeling the notchiness, revs usually drop to around 5800-6000rpm each time i tried to upshift at redline. So i just need to find more quiet stretches of road to practice now ;)

Edited October 5, 2005 by ZEEROLLA

[ZEEROLLA]

The only way to bypass this is to spin the wheels or slip the clutch. Shifting speed has nothing to do with it.

←

Can anyone please explain a bit more on

"spin the wheels and slip the clutch."

1. How to do them??

2. What do they do to make lift landing possible?

Thanks :)

←

I'm still practicing Cooley :(

Having bald tyres will also do it for you :P

[lucio_libre]

Lucio -  i used that method in the past when my gear shifter was stuck at high revs and only hitting the rev limiter releases it for me to shift smooth and quick, and i used to land 1-2 LIFT 9/10 times.  But what Northy said is also true, hitting limiter can impede the car's forward progression so you can sometimes end up having less road speed than say shifting before hitting limiter.  It is a hit or miss thing with the rev limiter.

Actually ever since i got my clutch/flywheel/wheels/tyres i only landed 1-2 LIFT once and the tyres never screeched or chirped, just lost traction and you could feel it.  Maybe its te tyres or wheel/tyre combo weighing heavier all up compared to the old wheel/tyre.  Don't forget the old rims were 16x6 and Turanza tyres look lighter than my yokies now. 

But anyway i went for a drive again today to practice and i never grind or crunched 2nd today.  I never had issues with 3-2 downshifts or any other gears except occassionally 2-3 upshift hen i rushed it.  I put it down to me trying to shift too fast with a very firm hand on the shifter, slamming into 2nd.  The gearbox has let me know it doesn't like it   Now i have a much looser grip and i shift slower, feeling the notchiness, revs usually drop to around 5800-6000rpm each time i tried to upshift at redline.  So i just need to find more quiet stretches of road to practice now ;)

←

Yeah it does slow you down I noticed too, but i only use it on a 2-3 shift where it makes no difference.

[influx]

i drive fine thank you *** of modding.

i go to the track very reg. and cannot rely on this gear box. and as i am about to dedicate this car to fun purposes it would help a lot.

[JCTurbo]

Redline MT90

the C64 is in the Elise. only difference is 6th gear. guys might want to try this stuff I just switched over like many of the Celica owners, and my 5th gear synchro problem has vanished. avoid oils with GL-5 rating, in the gear box, more harm than good will come

Edited October 6, 2005 by JCTurbo

[CHA54]

if your syncro's are wearing prematurely, clearly you can't shift as well as you think you can :P

[SILVABULLIT]

Or your gear oil isn't doing it's job ;) Some of the additives that I've seen you guys put in your gearboxes/engines etc are rubbish and I wouldn't touch them with a ten foot pole. :(

Most of the ones I've heard on here are full of moly's, graphites and other solids that block oil galleries and picks which then cause oil starvation and ther is where the problems start. I'm not saying that this is the case here nut research your product first or talk to someone who knows their stuff.

I could tell many a story about supposed "miracle additives" that have destroyed many a race engine/gearbox/diff. ;)

[vitagen]

hey guys i just bought

2x1 L of

Motul Gear 300 oil, SAE 75W90.....100% synthetic oil.... any good?

how much tranny oil u need ? i was told by the guy 1.75L but isnt that a bit much? and is it hard changing tranny oil?

[Mintos]

I found a little trick in my Corolla. Hit the rev limiter in every gear and you land in lift all the time. I guess every car is different, but this works for my car 100%. It always lands at 6400-6600.

←

Would i be wrong in saying that hitting the rev limiter constantly is not much good for your engine, especially if it is such a high rever?

That being said, in the 1zz, you get the best shifts in the lower gears if you can change RIGHT on the first rebound off the rev limiter, if its a cruddy road, i can even get chirpage with this technique from 1st to 2nd.

However i dont really want to wreck my car and because the 1zz isnt designed for high revving, i try and avoid it.

[Northy]

mate your 1zz can take almost 9,000RPM trust me :P

[Cooley]

I found a little trick in my Corolla. Hit the rev limiter in every gear and you land in lift all the time. I guess every car is different, but this works for my car 100%. It always lands at 6400-6600.

←

Would i be wrong in saying that hitting the rev limiter constantly is not much good for your engine, especially if it is such a high rever?

That being said, in the 1zz, you get the best shifts in the lower gears if you can change RIGHT on the first rebound off the rev limiter, if its a cruddy road, i can even get chirpage with this technique from 1st to 2nd.

However i dont really want to wreck my car and because the 1zz isnt designed for high revving, i try and avoid it.

←

I guess the reason for the rev limiter to be there is to protect your engine reving too hard and up into the "danger" zone of damaging the engine

[MR22ZZ]

hey guys i just bought

2x1 L of

Motul Gear 300 oil, SAE 75W90.....100% synthetic oil.... any good?

how much tranny oil u need ? i was told by the guy 1.75L but isnt that a bit much? and is it hard changing tranny oil?

←

2.3L for the Stivo ;)

don't know where he got his figures from...

I'm enjoying the Penrite 10 tenths I put in my gearbox... feels very light but when cool it is still a bit stiff on the changes, but warms up quickly.

Gear oil also actually benefits from a bit of age and wear so the guys who change it every service may be do more harm than good... <_<

EDIT: on another note, I tryed my 1st 1-2 change tonight after the upgrades... being wheels, lowering and exhaust...

landed @ 6000RPM right on the money 1st time!!!

[ZEEROLLA]

Redline MT90

the C54 is in the Elise. only difference is 6th gear. guys might want to try this stuff I just switched over like many of the Celica owners, and my 5th gear synchro problem has vanished. avoid oils with GL-5 rating, in the gear box, more harm than good will come

←

What's wrong with GL-5 oils?

I have been using Castrol Syntrax SAE 75W90 API GL5. It is the top of the range gearbox oil from Castrol and used and trialled on Toyota Rally, LeMans, 2 liter Super Tourer, Williams BMW F1 team etc..

Castrol Syntrax

What Dylan said sounds right too about extended draining in gearbox oils. Mine has been changed very often due to track days where a lot of strain was put on the gearbox and the installation of new clutch/flywheel, so had no choice. I also did it at 10,000km service. But with expensive Synthetic gear oils, the manufacturers claim extended drainage intervals so i believe they can stay in for much longer than conventional gearbox oils.

I also use Nulon's G70 transmission additive in conjunction with Castrol Syntrax ;) .

Edited October 5, 2005 by ZEEROLLA

[51EKA]

I think GL-4 protect syncro while GL-5 protect gears. So we need GL-4 most.... Redline MT90 is the best you could get and you only need 2.3L of it. Too bad you'll have to pay $120 for a 4L bottle.

[influx]

i am not sure guess i am not, but i have never cruched gears nor punished my gear box with dragging. One thing i have heard though is that rev matching on synchro mesh gear box with heel and toe method can be detrimental, to synchro

the gear box oil i have currently got in is mobil 424. - just until i change the oil (prob to redline). my car has 70.000kms of hard driving under its belt. i had the synchro problem occur at the track so it was most probably due to oil heat prob. which is my bad. i never had any problems with 5th and 6th and so was surprised when they mentioned they need replacing.

another thing i was reading is that the redline super light and light anti shock is not for synchro mesh applications.

though the heavy duty is... .but i think is it you rollamods you run the super light in most of your gear boxes is that true?

any other suggestions for gear box strengthening without compromise of drivability?

[CHA54]

with regard to heel-toeing, there's no point at all if you dont clutch-out when you reach neutral to speed up the input shaft RPM so the synchro's dont have to do any work.

I'm currently running lightweight shockproof in my R154 with syncrho's, and I was running superlight shockproof in my C56 LSD box which was on my AE111 20V before I sold it.

I used Castrol Syntrax in the E58 on my old MAP 4AGZE.

Edited October 6, 2005 by rollamods

[MR22ZZ]

Penrite 10 tenths is GL4 and 1/2 the price of the Redline...

Been telling you guys this for a while now... <_< <_<

[ZEEROLLA]

But i don't believe GL4 = synchro protection and GL5 isn't. What about GL6 oils? If someone can explain "API" that should explain it bcuz its usually API GL4 or GL5.

[JCTurbo]

But i don't believe GL4 = synchro protection and GL5 isn't.  What about GL6 oils?  If someone can explain "API" that should explain it bcuz its usually API GL4 or GL5.

←

some GL-5 rated oils contain sulfer which eats away at all the brass in the trans. GL-5 is made for rear end gears, not the tranny

[sporthatch141]

I have to say that since the Indro Lexus boys did my clutch adjustment and changed to gearbox oil I have not had any baulking on the change (even at 7K + RPM changes!)

The gears still feel notchy though - espectially 2cnd/3rd (1st is still at bitch down changing). I guess I can live with it though :)