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Oils aint oils


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Ok, this is an age old question, but could not find much info on it here.

I do not like Toyota service departments, we have had a falling out and that is where it will stay. (But I will just say that my mum is more of a mechanic than some of those genius's...)

Can anyone provide the specs of the oil toyota use on the 1ZZ??

Also what oils you run if not Toyota brand (which is in fact not Toyota...)??

All opinions WELCOME!!! (Besides telling me to go to a dealer......)

As a note, I run Pennzoil Full Synthetic in the skyline due to forged pistons and chrome moly rings, used Magnetec in the Pulsar (SR20) and same oil in the old 7A-FE...so I am at my wits end about finding specs on type of ring and bore clearances and operating engine temps to choose the right oil....

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Whatever Crudd Toyota put's in there.

For preventative reasons I've been changing my oil every 5,000km's and the oil seems to stay very clean. Sometimes I really have to double check to ensure they've actually changed the oil and filer ( I score the paint on the filter just before it goes in for service ).

I really couldn't tell you what it is though, never bothered to ask although it comes in a bottle labelled Genuine Toyota VVTi engine oil.

The topic's been covered before though, so If you have a look, a few people seem to recommend Mobile 1 full synthetic after the car has covered at least 20,000km's.

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Whatever Crudd Toyota put's in there. 

For preventative reasons I've been changing my oil every 5,000km's and the oil seems to stay very clean.  Sometimes I really have to double check to ensure they've actually changed the oil and filer ( I score the paint on the filter just before it goes in for service ).

I really couldn't tell you what it is though, never bothered to ask although it comes in a bottle labelled Genuine Toyota VVTi engine oil.

The topic's been covered before though, so If you have a look, a few people seem to recommend Mobile 1 full synthetic after the car has covered at least 20,000km's.

I've also only had the Toyota brand VVT-i oil, its a 10w30, its made by Caltex, according to my dealer.

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I do not like Toyota service departments, we have had a falling out and that is where it will stay. (But I will just say that my mum is more of a mechanic than some of those genius's...)

2nd that Bob, :D

Personally I use Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (Full Synthetic)

and buy a filter from Toyota.

Nice 30 minute job !

As earlier 10W-30 is the recommended viscosity.

Any reputable brand will be OK.

The main thing is to change it regularly (6months/10,000km at least)

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I have been running Mobil Synth S, or Castrol Magnatec. If youre going to change every 5K youre wasting your cash on Fully synthetic, besides the fully synthetic is too thin. I once used castrol Type R, the car revved much faster but was idling different and it had lost power ;) .

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Castrol Formula R 5w 30.

Its designed for this type of application, high revving, latest technology engines.

Been using it since 1000km. Engine spins more freely and runs a touch cooler.

It gives me a little more peace of mind when i'm wringing its neck at nearly 8000rpm.

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I have been running Mobil Synth S, or Castrol Magnatec. If youre going to change every 5K youre wasting your cash on Fully synthetic, besides the fully synthetic is too thin. I once used castrol Type R, the car revved much faster but was idling different and it had lost power  ;) .

Whats the viscosity of the Mobil Synth S, 10w30?

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Yeah i have been running with this stuff called "Vegetable" right now. It works pretty well, stays consistent and gives the engine a nice unsmooth grinding noise whenever i apply the accelerator. Probably better value than the garbage i used to use - "Olive", it went bad fast and was too watery.

Of course some people like the good old fashioned "Canola", but i really dont see a place for it in my VVTi Toyota, it just doesnt seem right. There is also "Cooking" which i used once...it resulted in smoke billowing out of my bonnet so i am not going to go there again.

:D :P :lol:

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I changed my oil to Motul semi-synthetic at 1000kms which is 5W40 as far as I know.

It doesn't have to be 10W30. If you look at the manual you'll see that it depends on how hot/cold it is.

Really it says that in the manual/...get out of town...

I was asking what people run...not what the manual says...

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Yeah i have been running with this stuff called "Vegetable" right now. It works pretty well, stays consistent and gives the engine a nice unsmooth grinding noise whenever i apply the accelerator. Probably better value than the garbage i used to use - "Olive", it went bad fast and was too watery. 

Of course some people like the good old fashioned "Canola", but i really dont see a place for it in my VVTi Toyota, it just doesnt seem right. There is also "Cooking" which i used once...it resulted in smoke billowing out of my bonnet so i am not going to go there again.

:D  :P  :lol:

And the maturity continues...seems that school holidays just keep going for some...

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Theres a castrol sticker on my windscreen. The dealer near me uses magnatec so thats what I use for each 5k oil change in between the dealer servicing. I tried castrol R 5w 30w and noticed the car does rev harder but was also noisier at idle till the car warmed up

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Yeah i have been running with this stuff called "Vegetable" right now. It works pretty well, stays consistent and gives the engine a nice unsmooth grinding noise whenever i apply the accelerator. Probably better value than the garbage i used to use - "Olive", it went bad fast and was too watery. 

Of course some people like the good old fashioned "Canola", but i really dont see a place for it in my VVTi Toyota, it just doesnt seem right. There is also "Cooking" which i used once...it resulted in smoke billowing out of my bonnet so i am not going to go there again.

:D  :P  :lol:

And the maturity continues...seems that school holidays just keep going for some...

Bob mate, some people like comedy relief, it is how we keep life from becoming dull and being unhappy. No one cares if you didnt find it funny, no one cares how old you think i am - so why post it? why waste your time even reading my post? And before you start whining about hypocracy - i am posting this because you annoy me Bob and i have difficulty refraining from commenting about people whom annoy me.

The point is, my comment had purpose, yours did not.

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Castrol Magnetic is rubbish. I wouldn't put it on the chain on my mountain bike :(

On a Falex friction machine using the vee block and pin where the vee block progressively get tighter on the pin the magnetic had the worst results of any of the oils tested(some 20 in total) and failed at 750 pounds per sq inch. the best was the Mobil 1 synthetic which lasted to just under 2500 pounds per sq inch. I will try to post the results sheet that I have from the test that the University of Qld did on this machine testing the lubricating qualities of oils under harsh conditions.

It's an interesting read ;)

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I changed my oil to Motul semi-synthetic at 1000kms which is 5W40 as far as I know.

It doesn't have to be 10W30. If you look at the manual you'll see that it depends on how hot/cold it is.

Really it says that in the manual/...get out of town...

I was asking what people run...not what the manual says...

And what's your point? I simply mentioned that because some people seem to think that they have to use 10W30 engine oil.

Take a chill pill.

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Yeah i have been running with this stuff called "Vegetable" right now. It works pretty well, stays consistent and gives the engine a nice unsmooth grinding noise whenever i apply the accelerator. Probably better value than the garbage i used to use - "Olive", it went bad fast and was too watery. 

Of course some people like the good old fashioned "Canola", but i really dont see a place for it in my VVTi Toyota, it just doesnt seem right. There is also "Cooking" which i used once...it resulted in smoke billowing out of my bonnet so i am not going to go there again.

:D  :P  :lol:

And the maturity continues...seems that school holidays just keep going for some...

Bob mate, some people like comedy relief, it is how we keep life from becoming dull and being unhappy. No one cares if you didnt find it funny, no one cares how old you think i am - so why post it? why waste your time even reading my post? And before you start whining about hypocracy - i am posting this because you annoy me Bob and i have difficulty refraining from commenting about people whom annoy me.

The point is, my comment had purpose, yours did not.

Start a joke thread in other discussion or something then...your input is fairly limited at best, and the humour is barely scrapping grade 7...so I am glad that I annoy you...maybe when you grow up you will learn when to shut up...and stay out of something unless you have some valid information or a intelligent response.

Coladuna, sorry mate my point was this was about what people use as the factory specs provide limited guidance, especially compared to what Toyota actually put in it and what dealers use.

Silva, yeah that would be a good read, also any specs on clearances and piston squish etc that would also be great if you could find any...

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Hi

Umm... not exactly about oils - but I didn't want to make a new topic...

In any case - I booked my stivo for its 5k service and the lady said that they change the oil but not the filter. That they only change the filter every 10k.

Is this correct? Or should I get them to change the filter regardless?

Cos if that is all they are doing (apart from the checks), I may as well change the oil and filter myself the next time a minor service comes up.

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I have always changed the filter with the oil...otherwise you run the risk of crap from the filter going through the new oil...

This is more inherent in turbo's as this is used to cool the turbo but still I have always changed both and so have my engine builder and mechanic mates...

Also its like a $5 part of something, get them to change it!!!

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If your bothering to change the oil then you may as well change the filter.

Slight correction on the filter, they're a little more than $5 unless your getting them at cost or using 'black and gold' filters.

They are closer to $20 retail.

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Mobil recommends the following for the 2zzge:

MOBIL 1 10W-30 or MOBIL SYNTH S 10W-40 or MOBIL SUPER S 10W-40 or MOBIL 1 5W-50 or MOBIL SUPER XHP 15W-40 or MOBIL SUPER HP 20W-50 or MOBIL SUPER GF-2 10W-30

Capacity 4.4* Litres

And for the 1zzfe:

MOBIL 1 10W-30 or MOBIL SYNTH S 10W-40 or MOBIL SUPER S 10W-40 or MOBIL 1 5W-50 or MOBIL SUPER XHP 15W-40 or MOBIL SUPER HP 20W-50 or MOBIL SUPER GF-2 10W-30

Capacity 3.7* Litres

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