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Posted

Hi guys, I am in the process of puchasing a k&n sri and exhaust (hopefully get headers, modified Y piece and high flow cats). Is there a plug in tune available for the aurion that might release a little more grunt from these mods? Am I better off biting the bullet and paying for it to be put on a dyno? How does the factory computer go when trying to extract more power? Any ideas what sort of power increase I can expect? Don't want a race car, just something that stands out while the mrs takes the kids to school. Cheers.

Posted

There is nothing worthwhile/financially viable to cater for your want/needs. Any power gains you get from the mods you have listed will not be actually noticeable, simply placebo.

Posted

yeh but a tune may increase torque or beta fuel consumption tho...wudnt it....


Posted

So there is no way I can enhance the settings of the factory computer to take advantage of the mods? A friend of mine recently did similar mods to an sv6 commondore and having it tuned on the dyno gained him around 20 kw at the wheels. The mechanic ran it without plugging the computer in initially to get a baseline readout and then by adjusting settings on the factory computer managed to get the extra power. Cost him a fair bit though cause the mechanic had to pay holden for the codes to access the commodore ecu. Kinda figured I could do a similar thing with the aurion (it's 2 years older than the sv6).

Posted

That is correct, toyota ECU's are locked and unlike other brands (holden, subaru, volkswagen, etc) cannot be 'tuned' of 'flashed'

Your only option in this regard is to change your ECU to an aftermarket, or a piggy back.

Posted

Just throwing an idea out there, but would resetting the ECU so it has to relearn from the start help?

Talking to my Toyota mech mate, he's going to reset my transmission ECU for me tomorrow so that it'll learn my driving style, which will hopefully be a lot more responsive than what it currently is (Learnt off the previous owner). At least, that's how he tell me it works. I'll chuck the question at him when I see him anyway regarding the motor ECU, or to just leave it learning what comes at it.

But if you like plugging stuff in, to at least see what's going on, I totally recommend buying a bluetooth elm327 OBDII doohickey. I was stoked when I found the socket in my TRD (Had bought one for my previous car), because couple it with the app Torque on an Android device, and you get access to quite a bit of info (But no, you _cannot_ change anything with it. Look but no touch). Has a module that reports back HP generation (Stuffed if I know where), so that might be a fun thing to at least see if there's changes before & after mods.

Posted

Just throwing an idea out there, but would resetting the ECU so it has to relearn from the start help?

ECU's will "learn" driving styles, however while you may get a little more response, it really won't be that much and certainly will not gain any worthwhile figures on the dyno.

Posted

resetting your ecu after doing mods like intake or exhaust is a good idea. Modern ECU's are capable of 'learning' to a degree and a reset will help

The easiest way to do this is drop the negative off your battery, then stand on the brake for 30sec, then reconnect the negative.

Posted

resetting your ecu after doing mods like intake or exhaust is a good idea. Modern ECU's are capable of 'learning' to a degree and a reset will help

The easiest way to do this is drop the negative off your battery, then stand on the brake for 30sec, then reconnect the negative.

Most of the older Toyotas (ie pre-OBDII) you could reset the ECU by removing the EFI MAIN fuse for a couple of minutes, that way you don't lose your radio settings etc from disconnecting the battery. Not sure if it works on the newer models though as I've never had to try it on something with OBDII

Posted

resetting your ecu after doing mods like intake or exhaust is a good idea. Modern ECU's are capable of 'learning' to a degree and a reset will help

The easiest way to do this is drop the negative off your battery, then stand on the brake for 30sec, then reconnect the negative.

Most of the older Toyotas (ie pre-OBDII) you could reset the ECU by removing the EFI MAIN fuse for a couple of minutes, that way you don't lose your radio settings etc from disconnecting the battery. Not sure if it works on the newer models though as I've never had to try it on something with OBDII

I assume that would work too, pending of course that there was only one power feed to the ECU.

Posted

Thanks guys. Mick, where might I find more info about the piggyback you mentioned? In another thread on this forum I was led to believe that I would need to get a piggyback to stop the ecu throwing fault codes after I fit the headers. I believe the only headers available are ex usa and in order to fit them, the cats have to be relocated further down the exhaust. Apparently this may cause the ecu to throw a fault code. I'm told it doesn't go into limp home mode but can cause warning lights on the dash which I'm not real keen on. (Please forgive my ignorance on computer related matters. My experience comes from carb fed motors, mainly rotaries)

Posted

Most piggy-back ecu's (such as greddy emanage, aem fic, etc) are universal, but be aware that there has been very little-to no testing on aurions.

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