Jump to content


Engine Rattling Noise

WRC_rolla
 Share

Recommended Posts

WRC_rolla Enthusiast

WRC_rolla

Posted
Posted

I own a 2005 sportivo an lately ive been noticing a rattling like noise, like a chain rattling its hard to describe. It only occurs high in the rev range from bout 7000 till redline.

My car only has around 6000 kms on it but the noise is coming from the engine. If theres anyone else experiencing a similar problem out there id love to know but looks like i may have to visit toyota again...
SILVABULLIT Grand Master

SILVABULLIT

Posted
Posted

Have you got the Air Con turned on??? If so turn it off or you'll destroy your A/C compressor rather quickly :unsure: doing that sort of RPM.

WRC_rolla Enthusiast

WRC_rolla

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No the air-con is switched off, i dont think its a fuel issue or a bad batch either as im running BP ultimate. I wouldnt describe it as a pinging noise it is more of a rattle....


saltylamb Advancing

saltylamb

Posted
Posted

No the air-con is switched off, i dont think its a fuel issue or a bad batch either as im running BP ultimate. I wouldnt describe it as a pinging noise it is more of a rattle....

Hi there, I had a similar problem but at lower RPMs, Sent it back to the dealers a few times before they found out it was the air con piping that was rattaling at a certain RPM. All they did was put some isulating foam around it and the problem was fixed.

Hope this helps.

WRC_rolla Enthusiast

WRC_rolla

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I purchased the car in march 05 so it was one of the first batch of the facelifted model. If its shifter cables thats not as big a deal as i thought, i was worried that maybe it was coming from the top end...

Maybe im better just getting it checked out.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Teknoman Experienced

Teknoman

Posted
Posted

i get something similar from about 5k rpm to redline, called toyota and the guy said the engine pings sometimes under load, i've booked myself in for a test drive so they can have a look at it

iniff Mentor

iniff

Posted
Posted

wheres the noise coming from? I used to get a violent rattling noise in lift until i got my last service, now its magically gone. I don't know what it was or how they fixed it but its gone now so I'm happy.

It sounded like it was coming from the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel.

I do occasionally still get a whistling noise from the engine bay though, i cant work out what it is or whats causing it. only happens in the 4-8k rpm range and its very hard to replicate.. it just happens.

Teknoman Experienced

Teknoman

Posted
Posted

yeh i get the whistling/pinging noise, i had the dash one too but they said they just tightened everything and it was gone, still happens on the rare occasion though

WRC_rolla Enthusiast

WRC_rolla

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The noise i have isnt coming from the dash its definately the engine... maybe it is a pinging noise just hard to tell at higher revs.

I might try to reset the ECU see if that solves anything.

Thanks for all the quick replies guys :D

MotoMan Veteran

MotoMan

Posted
Posted

Gear Selector cables... loose wiring behind the stereo or the Air inlets just in front of the front windscreen...

you cant expect a car that revs to 8Krpm to be completely silent...

DANZZT231 Grand Master

DANZZT231

Posted
Posted

Sure you can. Cover the whole car with nothing but Stinger Roadkill - double layer all round where ever is possible :P

redvvtli Community Regular

redvvtli

Posted
Posted

Have you got the Air Con turned on??? If so turn it off or you'll destroy your A/C compressor rather quickly :unsure: doing that sort of RPM.

Got to ask why is it that you should have you air con on off when driving at high RPM. The only reason is that my air con is permenently on - the exception being that when I do decide to hit lift I switch it off.

SILVABULLIT Grand Master

SILVABULLIT

Posted
Posted

Have you got the Air Con turned on??? If so turn it off or you'll destroy your A/C compressor rather quickly :unsure: doing that sort of RPM.

Got to ask why is it that you should have you air con on off when driving at high RPM. The only reason is that my air con is permenently on - the exception being that when I do decide to hit lift I switch it off.

Air con compressors aren't really designed to be spun at high rpm. The bearings start to get noisy till they collapse alltogether. Any car that has had a flogging with the air on will have a real noisy compressor when the air is switched on. Anything over 4500rpm and I switch it off to stop the unnecessary wear on the air con compressor.

Another reason is they aren't cheap to replace. ;) I've heard some Sportivo's up here in Brisssy that already have compressors making a lot more noise than others.

Mello Veteran

Mello

Posted
Posted

my aircon remaining stationary for longer then 3 minutes will start rattling, any ideas?

i give it a blip and it goes away ^^;

it goes through to the pedals and u can feel it up your leg ^^; i dont think its compressor malfunctioning.

maybe i need a air con recondition ^^;

MR22ZZ Grand Master

MR22ZZ

Posted
Posted

whats aircon? i dont even use mine its called windows!!! :D

that's all well and good in Melbourne but up here we have something called 'heat' outside, you may not be aware of that :P :D ;) ;)

ZEEROLLA Grand Master

ZEEROLLA

Posted
Posted

Everytime i switch the aircon on, from outside i can hear a louder tapping noise.. is that what u talking about SB?

XploShun Grand Master

XploShun

Posted
Posted

damn!!! i got both the problems!!!

rattling during A/C is on or off...

but its not always.. like.. 30% of the time...

CAP Grand Master

CAP

Posted
Posted

whats aircon? i dont even use mine its called windows!!! :D

that's all well and good in Melbourne but up here we have something called 'heat' outside, you may not be aware of that :P :D ;) ;)

Air Con ? Oh yeah that's the window de-mister isn't it ? :P :lol: :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 0

      E160 Corolla fielder suspension

      Does any one know if the trd sportivo suspension for the 2017 facelift corolla fielder fits the 2013 prefacelift version? Is the chassis the same? Thanks for the help.
      jay886 in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    2. 0

      Remote start

      What bipass do i need for immobilliser to install a remote start to my 2021 hiace
      chris mc1 in Audio/Video/Electronics
    3. 1

      1999 Camry Driver's door locking hatch issue

      It's possible that it could be something fouling or dirt build up, dry, or a broken mechanism, so have a look and give the mechanism some lubrication, most likely though, it'll be the actuator. I found one for a good price on Ebay, $25 delivered: Front Door Lock Actuator Right Side For Toyota Camry 1997-2001 | eBay
      Monad in Camry Club
    4. 0

      Query about the correct rotors for 2006 ACV40 Camry.

      Hi, I'm looking at a set of front rotors for an ACV40 2006, 2.4L Camry. I got a good price on some RDA's at Sparesbox. However both RDA8112 and RDA7686 show as for my car and I'm wondering what the difference is and if there were changes to the rotors during the model production. So does anyone know which rotor is the correct one? Many thanks in advance.
      Monad in Camry Club
    5. 9

      Android auto

      It's a simple solution though? Already laying down 60k for a RAV4, so what's another 1k on a phone to make everything work seamlessly? 👍
      L4WL3SS in RAV4 Club
    6. 9

      Android auto

      Your solution is akin to suggesting that switching to a different car manufacturer would resolve the issue. However, not everyone shares the same enthusiasm for using an iPhone as you do.
      Equi28 in RAV4 Club
    7. 1

      Turboed Corolla Overbuilt?

      that engine will be fine, the rods are the main thing to be concerned about. The 2860 is a decent turbo for the 1zz but in this day and age I'd go for a G25-550. The injectors might be on the small side, we run DW1000's. You need a full length injector, the shorter injectors with adaptors like ID1050x dont fit the 1zz head. You don't need an aftermarket intake manifold, if you do go down that path, avoid the CNC innovations unit, it's garbage. Do the boost control with a MAC valve and control it with the aftermarket ECU of your choice, I use Link stuff on most of my builds with the G4x Storm as the minimum. I also wire a fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor to the ECU in my installs. Use a decent intercooler, the better cores (ARE, PWR, Garrett, Vibrant, Plazmaman, Hypertune) work a lot better than the chinese stuff like Aeroflow. a 450x250-300 fits fairly well with custom end tanks to route the cooler pipes through next to the radiator Don't forget about the clutch and gearbox. These days I like the Uniclutch twinplate, Above 300whp you'll want to think about upgrading the 3rd and 4th gears in the box also with the SSC (Hollinger) gear set and install an LSD of your choice. If you're going to give it a hard time, you'll also want an oil cooler. I like the HKS thermostat type sandwich plates and setrab or mocal oil coolers with -10 speedflow fittings/lines (Chinese AN fittings neck down to a lot smaller internal diameter in their bends, not great for flow) You'll also want to think about brakes, Celica or Sportivo front calipers will bolt on with sportivo discs as a starting point. To have somewhere like Tunehouse do the work you'll want to budget somewhere between 20-40K
      CHA54 in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    8. 3

      Camry Touring 2010 Fuel consumption 15.2L/100km. Normal?

      I did the mathematics myself regarding costs vs benefits for fuel injector cleaner. I have changed from 91ULP to 95PULP and 98PULP. Price difference can be about 13 -20 cents. Compared to 91ULP, Premium quality fuel should have a better quality additive package designed to have superior engine cleaning capabilities so the engine can perform at their best.
      campbeam in Camry Club
    9. 3

      Camry Touring 2010 Fuel consumption 15.2L/100km. Normal?

      "Fuel injector cleaner is a waste of money" Only if you by the cheap crap if you use LiquMolly a German Product it does work and you won't waste your Money.
      Aussie Camry in Camry Club
    10. 0

      Camry Touring 2010 A/C Issues.

      Hi Guys, My Camry 2010 Touring just had a regas done on it and the next day for some reason it wasn't blowing cold air but the next day it is and now working with nice cold air BUT every now and then we can hear and feel a buzz for a few secounds and today while my sister took my car I could her like a mild knocking sound when stopped but goes away when driving off. Any idea what this could be and the A/C is always working now for now.
      Aussie Camry in Camry Club
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership