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Posted

Just had the 10,000km service at Brighton Toyota. Supplied them with my own oil as i wanted to test the casttrol edge sport 5w-30.. told them that i wanted to keep if there's any excess and know what? when i got it back, the entire 5L bottle was almost emptied - i thought they could have used some of it to oil the filter. i checked the dipstick when i got home and found it's half a inch above Full mark.. :angry: should i drain some out?

Posted

I experienced this once, the 1st oil change me and my dad did we overfilled, use the whole bottle. I went for a drive and the car felt funny, didnt want to rev. :o :o Lift didnt feel normal as well, no kick just noise

The next time we did an oil change, we filled exactly wat the manual said. I went for a drive and the car felt normal, reving freely unlike the 1st oil change. :lol::lol:. Plus lift felt normal, a nice kick

So i conclude too much oil is bad for engine, can somone confirm....

Posted (edited)

I'd try to drain some out. It's no good for the engine to overfill the oil, and it could even state in the engine manual that you can damage your cat converter if you overfill the oil.

One thing that can happen with overfilled oil is the crank scraper wont work effectively and your oil could froth in the sump, airated oil can also lead to spun bearings...

My method would be to totally drain the oil into a completely clean oil drain pan (make sure sump etc is clean beforehand so no dirt etc drops in), then fill the engine with the same oil again to the correct level.

I'd also be taking the issue up with the service manager where you got it serviced as that sort of negligence can cause a serious repair bill.

Edited by rollamods
Posted

I checked mien after my last service and it is around 2mm above the line. I dont think mine is an issue ???? Anyone???


Posted

I checked mien after my last service and it is around 2mm above the line. I dont think mine is an issue ???? Anyone???

thats an acceptable amount.

Posted

your car may start blowing smoke if oil has been overfilled .. not the best for the car. Best to SLOWLY undo the nut, and let whatever amount out and tighten the nut back up

Posted

your car may start blowing smoke if oil has been overfilled .. not the best for the car. Best to SLOWLY undo the nut, and let whatever amount out and tighten the nut back up

Ditto...

The 1ZZFE takes around 3.9 Litres and the 2ZZGE takes around 4.3 Litres...

If you overfil, you can spin bearings, screw the oil pump, blow oil seals and damage the cat... Also, with way too much, you can also cause hydraulic lock...

Posted

It happened during my last service too, i estimated close to 1cm above full mark for me. It has been 10,000kms since and nothing seems to be too much wrong with the car, touch wood. Next service coming up soon.. i reckon the mechanics simply didn't wait long enough for the oil to drain out fully before refilling :angry: They also did not return the remaining oil, that's Tory Toyota for those around my area, Wollongong Toyota always returned spare oil to me.

Posted (edited)

Wollongong didn't return mine last time, but Western did when I went there...

I hope they do it right with my car this time, btw i just got the Castrol Edge 5W30 for $36/- from Repco 20% off storewide :D Also checked my dip stick today, it is now 2-3mm below "Full" marking so must have burnt off a lot in the last 10,000kms (mostly highway driving), doesn't seem right.

while we are on engine oils guys i have asked this a few tmes already anyone knows what Toyota uses in our cars as standard gearbox oil? i know i could have asked Toyota but i just want some input from guys here cuz i wanted to buy my own but thought i might try Toyota's "recommended" oil this time (I was going to buy Castrol Syntrans 75W85, tried Syntrax 75W90 but seems to only perform well on the track when car is hot and on the street the oil doesn't seem to allow the synchros to perform well enough).

Edited by ZEEROLLA
Posted

Since there are a coupla posts here about dealerships overfilling the sump, I'd like to tell u's a little bit about my year 10 work experience at a dealership. They used an oil gun which gave a digital reading of how much oil came out of the nozzle when they pulled the trigger. They would have a number in their heads of how much oil to put in a certain model, and they'd always put the same amount in assuming that was the right quantity for the car.

Posted

i wanted to buy my own but thought i might try Toyota's "recommended" oil this time (I was going to buy Castrol Syntrans 75W85, tried Syntrax 75W90 but seems to only perform well on the track when car is hot and on the street the oil doesn't seem to allow the synchros to perform well enough).

That's the same problem I have with the Penrite 10 tenths (75W-90) . It's Brilliant when the box is hot, ie on the track and through the twisties when I use lift, but for normal driving it doesn't seem to get hot enough (most noticable changing into 2nd and 3rd). I cannot fault the stuff on the track as it takes a hammering and still performs, but for everyday driving it just doesn't feel right.

Posted

i wanted to buy my own but thought i might try Toyota's "recommended" oil this time (I was going to buy Castrol Syntrans 75W85, tried Syntrax 75W90 but seems to only perform well on the track when car is hot and on the street the oil doesn't seem to allow the synchros to perform well enough).

That's the same problem I have with the Penrite 10 tenths (75W-90) . It's Brilliant when the box is hot, ie on the track and through the twisties when I use lift, but for normal driving it doesn't seem to get hot enough (most noticable changing into 2nd and 3rd). I cannot fault the stuff on the track as it takes a hammering and still performs, but for everyday driving it just doesn't feel right.

I bit the bullet and ordered some Redline MT90 for $108/- 3 bottles x (0.9...litres) required since most Celicas say it works well with the 6 speed. So when i get my car serviced i will get the guys to drop it in, and have to make sure they do though, $100 worth of oil is not cheap! :ph34r:

btw Dylan is the Penrite oil GL5 or GL4? i found this from the OzCelica site, they took this info from Redline and its interesting to see what they say about GL5 oils. Castrol still markets GL5 oils saying they provide excellent synchroniser/gear protection and performance though :huh: I have used it since my 10,000kms service. Over the last 6months - 1 year been having more trouble shifting fast into 2nd, never had issues before but anyway all other gears are fine and downshifting into 2nd is fine, only upshifting needs to be slowed down a fraction to refrain from crunching. Anyway thought i will try Redine and if doesn't work i might need new synchros?

"A GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half... A GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most manual transmissions, unless a unique design consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5."

Posted

the back of the bottle says:

Synthetic Gear Oils - Fully Synthetic API GL6 rated oils with exceptional ability to withstand prolonged high temperature operation. Ideal for competition and high load/high temperature road use and in limited slip and spin resistant differential sets. Available as SAE 75W-19 & 80W-140

????? :huh::huh::huh::huh:

Posted

Since there are a coupla posts here about dealerships overfilling the sump, I'd like to tell u's a little bit about my year 10 work experience at a dealership. They used an oil gun which gave a digital reading of how much oil came out of the nozzle when they pulled the trigger. They would have a number in their heads of how much oil to put in a certain model, and they'd always put the same amount in assuming that was the right quantity for the car.

Yep, same as my work...

I've seen a lot of mechanics that just don't care about when they're putting oil in the cars... Always overfilling and so on...

But in my workshop, every car gets a final test before it leaves... Check all lights and levels and road test... It's amazing how many loose sump plugs, blown light globes and overfilled levels which leads me to think who are these morons that I work with???

Posted

Since there are a coupla posts here about dealerships overfilling the sump, I'd like to tell u's a little bit about my year 10 work experience at a dealership. They used an oil gun which gave a digital reading of how much oil came out of the nozzle when they pulled the trigger. They would have a number in their heads of how much oil to put in a certain model, and they'd always put the same amount in assuming that was the right quantity for the car.

Yep, same as my work...

I've seen a lot of mechanics that just don't care about when they're putting oil in the cars... Always overfilling and so on...

But in my workshop, every car gets a final test before it leaves... Check all lights and levels and road test... It's amazing how many loose sump plugs, blown light globes and overfilled levels which leads me to think who are these morons that I work with???

Where do you work Rolla boy :P I'll ask for you when i bring my car into your dealership next service..

But seriously these guys are damaging our $8000/- engines!! :angry: and i don't like that!! :angry:

I'll be bringing this up with my service people this coming service.

Posted

good work, my sportivo is a chatswood sold one... good to see it was taken care of before i owned it :D

Posted

test it when you car is COLD and hasnt been running. the oil will be 40weight when HOT and 5 weight when cold. Not only that after driving here will be oil everywhere all over the crankcase.

sit the car overnight then check in the morning.

Posted

i wanted to buy my own but thought i might try Toyota's "recommended" oil this time (I was going to buy Castrol Syntrans 75W85, tried Syntrax 75W90 but seems to only perform well on the track when car is hot and on the street the oil doesn't seem to allow the synchros to perform well enough).

That's the same problem I have with the Penrite 10 tenths (75W-90) . It's Brilliant when the box is hot, ie on the track and through the twisties when I use lift, but for normal driving it doesn't seem to get hot enough (most noticable changing into 2nd and 3rd). I cannot fault the stuff on the track as it takes a hammering and still performs, but for everyday driving it just doesn't feel right.

Same with me - Castrol Syntrax 75W90 (Grade as recommended in manual) Feels extremely notchy, particularly the 2-3 shifts unless the gearbox is hotter than normal driving around town allows... Thinking of dropping the oil after only 5000km's. Feels quite smooth and quick when it's very hot, but that's hardly ever these days for me.

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