Steven

OEM paint quality is often the bare minimal to satisfy government regs all around the world, which is often along the lines of "will provide protection from rust/corrosion etc under normal operating conditions, and is of a reasonable quality." BTW that wording is not from any source, as local laws are different everywhere - it's rather a summing up of what is required BASICALLY. In other words, any defects in your paint is something that you could claim a reasonable person without any additional skills or training would complain about is generally all you could claim required fixing. Say for example every other Aurion out there is like yours, even though your opinion is that it's not good enough, as long as the majority of customers have no issues with it then you'd have a hard time requiring them to fix it by law. I think I may have ventured off train a bit hehe, a few scotch n cokes will do that. Could you provide more specific examples and perhaps pictures of these defects?

I am sure that was done on purpose. You obviously havnt seen many modified VL Commodores before. Personally, I like the look of the lifted rear section of the bonnet on modded cars. Actually used to own a modified VL commodore before myself - but with commodores I was used to the panels being horribly aligned :P

something looks wrong with how that bonnet is mounted...

Very nice result - I've very keen to see the 1/4 mile result now!

. Hi i also have the same thing, have u tryed it. Thanks. Can you post pictures of the back of your unit? Very interested. Hi, I am following this topic with interest. I have Presara 2008 and have no Aux input. However my friend has Presara 2009 and has Aux input next to Aux power outlet. His HU is exactly same as mine. I contacted Toyoya for official upgrade to add Aux audio for 2008 Presara but there is none. My electronic knowledge is very limited but have a photo of back of my HU when was removed for another purpose in a workshop. I thought this might help someone for comparison purpose. Looks like the mongrels did provide AUX for the upmarket satnav's in the facelift range then. Shame they'd go so far as to actually cheapen the unit of the previous model just so AUX could not be added.

Any figure stock figure from another car is highly likely to be different from what your car currently outputs, and hence would defeat the purpose of a using it to calculate the approx. power gains of an exhaust and CAI. Even dyno runs done on different days can affect the readings - ideally you'd want a run on a dyno, then have the mods fitted and do another run afterwards on the same day and same dyno. Actually considering the ECU and it's learning feature maybe you'd be best leaving it a few days for everything to settle back in before the followup dyno-run. Either way, get your car dyno'd before the mods (and post it here :) ) Very interested to see what gains you get with the mods. Ideally a few 1/4 mile runs before the mods and then after would show the actual real world gains, but dyno figures will do

You made the right choice, it really looks tops mate. Can't wait to see what you do with it :) More pics!

Does this mean I could just run the positive for the power window block, into the "accessory on" input of the radio and I should also get a delay between the car shutting off, and the radio shutting off? It'd be a nice feature I reckon

don't

Unless it's sharp enough to actually cut it, I doubt you'd scratch this stuff very easily at all. I'd say it was definitely more durable than the factory paintjob. As for changing shape, I've had no troubles with it yet

I'm extremely fond of the look, feel and overall finish with the CF vinyl - and that you can vinyl whatever you want meaning you can make your setup unique (to an extent). Real carbon fibre would be nice, but some of the shapes would pose great difficult in being fabricated properly, especially since most of the pieces have a rear side designed in such a manner to "clip" into the factory mounting points. The idea sounds nice, but in the end once you've seen the CF vinyl in person I doubt you'd considered going to the trouble of getting real parts made up.

Fantastic - one of my biggest disappointments was that I never got to see your sportivo in the flesh, I'll need to make sure I see you TRD! This silver TRD, is it an SL?

I can't remember if I actually disconnected the airbag - seem to recall just tilting it up and laying it close against the dash cluster whilst still plugged in. Probably not the best idea, but I needed to test the leds I was replacing at the time and I was too lazy to keep swapping the battery terminals.

They are held on by screws. Look behind the steering wheel and you should see some removable covers. Pop them off, then use a torx head screwdriver to remove the screws from both sides of the steering column. The airbag will then move out of place, giving access to the screws that hole on the silver bits. I considered doing the steering wheel bits, but decided in the end that because i wasn't doing my aircon and stereo, it would match better if I left them silver - Though I'm always prepared to be convinced otherwise :)

Can't wait to see how it finishes up, good work Paradigm! BTW I've been slack but the door trim removal can be found here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...;hl=remove+door I know it's very basic, but it really is that simple. The included picture shows where you can find the 3 screws that hold it on. The only thing lacking is that you need to also remove the cover near the dash on the trim where it meets the window glass. It just pops off fairly easily. One the screws and cover are removed, remove the push clip near the dash end of the trim up close to that prior mentioned cover. There's only one of them per trim, just push the center "button" in and the clip will come out. After that prise the trim outwards starting from the bottom working around the sides - the clips will just pop out. Once they're all out, remove the trim by sliding it upwards to disengage it from where the glass meets the door. Take care to reach behind it and remove the various wiring plugs from power window controls etc on the trim. I really hope that made sense, I accidentally deleted windows paint so I can't post images. Furthermore I'm a bit tipsy, but it really is straight forward.

I actually took a few photo's of it in the glovebox too, all snuggled up behind my multimeter.. AWWWWWW Tried to catch him, but I lost track of him under the drivers seat. Oh well got a mouse trap and bait, see if the night turns up anything. Let this be a lesson to anyone who never chases after the dropped french fry between the seats.

You guy's pipped my curiousity, and I liked the results. Doing all interior doorhandles now - much easier as they just pop off with a flathead. Also removing the doortrims isn't hard at all, I'll see if a guide has already previously been posted, if not I shall create one later. Also pictured is an unexpected passenger who appeared in my glovebox of all places. Still haven't caught the mongrel, might be time to set some traps.

Sorry I think there was some confusion on my advice - by interior illumination, I meant the dash illumination at night when the headlights are on. For that you would need to find a wire that's positive when the dash lights are on.

Final results of the carbon fibre vinyl. Looks absolutely fantastic in person, stoked with the results. FYI The door strips are held on by screws from the back, hence requiring each door trim to be removed in turn.

I really like that effect - sort of reminds me of the work done by that Modicoat process. Unless you're a gun at spraying though I can imagine it would cost a bit. The results though speak for themselves, something I'm sure would look fantastic in person.

Pink - To reverse light power. Short of running a wire all the way to the rear of the vehicle, I'm sure someone here might be able to help you located one around the dash. Blue/white - Yep, it's for turning external amplifiers on. Red/Green - For connecting to your interior illumination circuit so the headunit will dim at night when your headlights are on.

Finally finished the center console after redoing some bits and fixing clearances elsewhere so all the bins work properly now. I'll have certain other silver bits of the dash finished before days end, but the doors are for later.

About 3 or 4 hours, I needed to redo some parts and adjust some others for a better fit so could have been quicker. The vinyl really does mess with the clearances, if you're not prepared to do some modification to certain things then be ready to have sticky storage bins

Here's my progress so far. More work on it tomorrow.

The vinyl arrived today, got straight to work on the console. Let me say that you're kidding yourself if you try to install this stuff without a heat gun. Also the factory clearances are very small so even the small amount this vinyl extends outward from the plastic makes some pieces difficult to refit. Still so far I'm about half done with the console, doing it a bit different from Ingress as previously mentioned. Unfortunately my net is capped for a few days but I'll do my best to post pics once it's done. FYI I noticed supercheap selling a carbon fibre vinyl now, very well priced. I had a look at it in person and I didn't like it as much as the stuff from Ebay - it's very glossy.