ZEEROLLA

Also don't forget the Renault ClioSport Cup, a true hot hatch in terms of performance for the money, betters the TypeS in the bends, and only if you can look past the styling, ergonomics and buid quality of the Renault :D

They will still service your car, its just that they might not want to perform a warranty job on your car if you have midified parts that may have resulted in a failure. Othet than that Toyota has no right to refuse a legitimate warranty claim or job. And if one Toyota dealership refuses there is always another :P Then dob that dealership in, write to Toyota Australia.

Good petrol! I've never tried Vortex though, only Vortex98. I've been using it for the last 4 months now. Plus you get the 4cents off at Woolies' pumps that offer Vortex98, although not many places have that. Fuel economy has been reasonable and comparable to other fuels. But seriously with the petrol prices being so high i think i will be filling up whereever its cheaper. Just make sure its 98Octane or higher ;)

I SAY CAPITAL PUNISHMENT FOR THESE PEOPLE, but no death penalties :P

Yes but the brake discs and shocks will probably not be covered. I am after better shocks like the Koni sports but brake discs i might just get OEM if they don't over-charge.

Rang up to book for 40,000km service yesterday and got it done this morning 8.30am. "Express Service" - whereby a few mechanics work on one car, offered by Tory Toyota Albion Park Rail (didn't like them but wanted a quick service this time), car in and out in less than 2 hours (10am) while i waited, sipped on a cappucinno and reading WHEELS mags. Also watched what the mechanics did to my car on a tv screen suplied to inform customers they really do work on your cars. Anyway, total cost was approx. $250. Broken down into $160 labour, $40 parts, $20 consumables, gst $20. I supplied my own engine oil - Castrol FormulaR 5W30, they did engine flush and brake system flush, oil filter change plus all the other standard checks. The most noticeable difference was the brakes and more torque from the engine. I felt it instantly the brakes were very bity and the engine's response was much better from take off. My last service was at 32,000kms and the car saw some track work at 35,000kms so this is the only service since. My front brake discs were given a "fair" review so i guess they will come shortly possibly with new shock absorbers if i'm not too broke.

and while the gearbox is removed to put the clutch and Flywheel in, may as well open it up and chuck an LSD in there ← and while the gearbox is open check your gears and synchros, if they are worn chuck in some super close ratio gears :P

Anyone have prices for KYB shocks? I am looking at replacing them soon with either Konis or KYBs, can't be bothered with stock shocks. Btw guys what are the signs and symptoms of worn shocks besides seeing an oil leak? Sometimes its just hard to notice the oil. I know some guys in the past say they hear "knocking" sounds, are they soft, loud, metallic, squeashy or what? I think the only clicking/clunking sound i hear sometimes might come from either the rear swaybar, or front/rear shorter bumpstops, or even the front strutbar. I'm not too fussed abt noises though, its more the driving feel. How can we "feel" for the problem?

I would get Yaris anyday. If you have a Stivo already use that for your "speed" needs, and the Yaris for your daily drive man. There is also the Honda Jazz (which is the zippiest of the lot) and Mazda2 which are both good little cars. And fuel economy was your reasoning behind a downgrade from an SP23 wasn't it, i would suggest getting the 1.3liter iDSI Honda Jazz instead of a 1.5liter. Then when you have more cash and the modding bug bites into you big time, plonk in a K20A 210bhp iVTEC engine (should fit)! Woohoo! :D

I'm in guys! Will let Dylan and the rest of yous know whether i will be driving down with you Sydney boyz or firing up the bbq with Dylan! Should be a good day, we just meed more Toyotas!! ;)

Hi there, since you are considering the TypeS i guess you have the dosh to spend so why not the TypeS? Who would give it up for the Stivo if we have the money to spend on it? Also depends what you want to use the car for man. If you want a sporty but spacious 4 door hatch that drives like a "Corolla" untill you push its limits, get the Stivo. If you want a very capable sporty coupe with the DC2 Integra TypeR's blood and legendary status, get the TypeS. It might not be a TypeR but it is still a bloody great car in many aspects. A few points to add though, 1) Stivo is cheaper, hence more money for mods. 2) Cheaper insurance for "Corolla" 3) Straight line speed damn close, (in the vid TypeS has 1 additional passenger and "muffler" mod), but in the bends TypeS wins hands down. 4) The newer DC5 integra's suspension is difficult to tune. Many famous tuners including SPOON have difficulty, and recommend the stock ride height when tuning its suspension, has something to do with the DC5's suspension structure. IMO if i have dosh i will obviously get TypeS but the Stivo is hard to beat in terms of BFYB but again its very subjective, what is "Bang" to you will be different to me? The TypeS is still a great alternative to the legendary DC2 Integra TypeR though ;)

I think its more a $15,000 difference brand new drive-away ;) Celica looks and drives like a Sports Car, has sportier interior, gauges, seats, steering, shifter etc :D Chassis stiffness will be heaps different, Celica will handle better stock vs stock, Celica is 100kg lighter on paper. I test drove a brand new and 2nd hand Celica before buying the Stivo and the driving feel feels pretty good, sharper steering feel and response, very sporty and comfortable, quality also seems to be a notch up. It's a sports coupe, feels real compact not like the Stivo which has heaps of room. I personally wouldn't fork out the dough for a brand new if u r after a Celica not to mention they are 6 years old now, look for 2nd hand ones. A lot of them have been kept really well and much cheaper. But then again i would most certainly get an ITR or 200sx rather than a Celica :P

You not driving your ute Justin!! :P Try out Honda's cluthes (eg. Type S), they are sooper light! I noticed with the ExedyHD kit it did feel abt the same as stock, and the pedal pressure is consistent throughout the pedal stroke.

And don't forget Bill aka Xoom Justin ;) He's got the TOMs Flywheel too.

As far as i know, i won't be getting another fwd high powered car if i am reaching into my pocket for that sort of money. I know none of these cars will truely impress me. Imagine stepping on it in 2nd gear in a tight hairpin, it will either spin up the front wheels like carzy and understeer or simple be slow due to traction control and all the other gizmos. The VXR is a joke for a fwd, 320nm of torque! Come on.. just doesn't cut it for me guys. The DC2R, Clio Sport 182, or Pug 206 Gti180 are not heros when it comes to power or torque on paper. Its so good because it has total balance. Juts like traditionally the Suzuki Gti and Pug S15/S16 were legendary fwd hot hatches due to their great balance. These few cars are just like big muscly guys with no substance if you know what i mean.. too heavy for fwd. No offence big muscly guys out there ;)

Yeh man, the Stivo's front brakes are 11-12inches in diameter only, what are they on!? 15inches = 325mm!

The Fidanza is the lightest at 3.4kg. As to driveability i noticed its better than stock. Some say when going up steep hills bcuz of our little torque you can lose speed or need to step on it more but i don't have that problem at all. Exedy is a the most common and reputable brand when you talk clutches. Daikin makes Exedy clutches and most OEM clutches. TRD also uses their clutches but modifies it to their specs hence more expensive than say a Exedy HD clutch. You won't go wrong with Exedy. I also won't recommend you skimping on clutches, its something vital for the function of your car's mechanicals.

But still for $47big ones would yous still get it? It's got 2 doors though. I know i won't, there are too many options for that sort of money.. its not worth it imo.

Ahh, i guess it must be the hub rings then because mine are not snug. Is it possible to get my hands on a pair of aluminium ones? Or i can always try to move the hub rings around since the rear ones whch were on the front previously were better. Btw i had Toyota look at the CV todayand they told me the clamp was loose on the inside CV so they just changed the clamp and tigtened it. :)

Hmm, when i think of foam filters i think of a sponge, wouldn't that suck up even more water like our kitchen sponges? :P

They look like they are either made of plastic or some sort of metal, maybe aluminium. Black in colour. They seem to still move a very tiny bit when i put them on the hub, not tight. Is that normal?

Zee, My guess is it's your wheels. Do you still have your stock wheels+tyres ? Try putting them on and going for a drive. PS: did you get your package in the post ? Cheers. ← Yes i got your package thanks man. I don't think its the wheels bcuz the vibration was rectified after i had my front brakes machined. It only resurfaced after they rotated my wheels and re-balanced it few days ago. I had absolutely no vibration for quite a few months after the brake machining and the steering wheel vibratio is very obvious, like something is lose at 110-120km/h. It could also be that the hub rings don't fit snuggly. Anyway i will try taking the car into Toyota to get the CV fixed first, that might fix it? U never know, didn't expect the brake machining to fix it last time. I will get Toyota to look at it while the car is there.

Thanks for your input guys. Yeh there is so much oil on the left CV and gearbox casing but funny enough not a drop on my garage floor! So Shao what did you do about it? Did you just get the split CV boot replaced under warranty? My vibration problem was rectified before when Toyota machined the brake discs for me. I think it has something to do with the way the discs, calipers, hubs and wheels are mounted? If they are slightly off i gues it can cause your steering to vibrate at high speeds. Currently my allignment is also slightly off, don't know if it could be due to the CV. Eddy, did Toyota machine your front discs for you? Maybe you can request them to do it, even if they charge i don't think its expensive. That sure fixed my vibration problems. I think with tyres its more to do with the thread when the rubber is new? After driving for a while i believe the thread will wear evenly across the face and you will get a smoother ride. Or it could be that the rubber is not fitted onto the wheel properly. Anyway will get my car checked out tomorrow first thing in the morning.

I had my wheels rotated, balanced and alligned few days ago and i am now getting very strong vibration through my steering at 110-120km/h on the freeway. I had no vibration pre rotation and balance. I did have it when i first got my wheels, but when i took it back to Toyota to get the brake discs machined, it miraculously solved the vibrating problem. Anyway i took my wheels off today to have a look at my brakes and hub rings and also checked out the CV joint, my left CV joint had oil all over it. So much that it stained the gearbox caseing. I don't know if its the oil form the gearbox or CV but looked to me its from the CV. Anyone else had this problem and does it give you bad steering vibration at 110-120km/h only? People say there is a clicking sound but i don't seem to have it.

I think you should get wheels that looks good to you and tyres that perform well. :)