Mole

I cant give you an accurate price but people avoid carmate because the stuff they pump out is generally of crap quality. If you go with a replica kit and not aftermarket, add fitment cost, cause theres a pretty good chance it'll need modifying to fit flush. Hit up http://www.amayama.co.jp/ and see if they can get a kit for you direct from Japan, even with shipping it'll prolly be less then getting it locally.

You should be able to get a kit direct from Toyota and it will most likely need to be painted. Be warned... it'll be expensive.

Dunno why but theres just something about bonnet struts that are just classy. Nothing new about them (my 20 year old supra has them), but just classy, sure the stick is ever reliable, but oh so undignified. Car looks nice.

The Toyota A304 4sp auto (found on lots of older RWD toyotas, such as my Supra) has a 'manual' feature that forces it to not upshift, it'll just bounce off the limiter, but yeh, not good for it. That any my 'MANU' button is broken so it doesn't work for me (FFS!).

Dialed in a couple more PSI of booooost for the drags tonight. Be there around 6ish if anyones interested @ Kwinana motorplex.

I wont go into trying to manualise your auto, its possible but not worth it and expensive. If you want faster shifts and can put up with them being a bit harsher, go look up some shift kits for your auto. This can cause extra wear on your box but you should be able to negate most of it will a good tranny cooler.

Good to see you had success with the port and polished header, its very easy to screw that up!

How much should I expect? In your head, 100hp more. Really? 0.

Yeah door hinges are supposed to be greased :), unless you like not being able to open your door smoothly. Nice ride tho, was very close to getting one myself recently.

Finally took my P plates off! Woot!

R35 GTR? :P

You ever seen WaynoFX's Celica? Also has a Beams but with a silly huge amount of work done to it, ITBs even (which required he add a scoop to fit).

If that $130 included the tyre, its a good price, if its just installing it, its a complete rip off. Most places include fitment and balancing in the prices for their wheels and tyres.

Yeah I'm keen, haven't seen the TOCAU lads for a while! 1.Cypher 2.Mole 3. 4. 5. 6.

Street cred? Uh ok... Suppose you could go for a Mark II Chaser or an Aristo, if you want something with street cred forget fuel efficiency! If I was spending that kinda dosh I wouldn't care about street cred.

You would need the 6sp from the 2ZZ to go with it. That Auto clutch manual ****box is really terrible.

Okie dokie: 1: Should be very reliable, I haven't heard of anything that stands out in the newer MR2s. 2: Dunno. 3: Good luck finding one, FYI it'll cost a lot. Cheap replicas will require more work to get them fitted well (so more $$$) 4: A lot (why bother getting a custom one?) Yes there is a hard top, genuine hard tops are very very rare and sought after, so you'll pay a premium IF you can find one. My suggestion: If your in a state that doesn't have P plate restrictions on turbos, get a older MR2 turbo (SW20 with a 3S-GTE), oodles more power. The newer ones have econobox 1ZZ-GE engines. If you have restrictions, get a 7th gen (2000+) Celica or a Corolla Sportivo. Don't even think of getting a auto MR2 Spyder, one of the worst gearboxes ever sold :P

Almost any set of 6.5" will fit.

Only 3700 with tier for the ones I'm looking at Thats a bloody lot of money for wheels! Seriously, you'll put them on, get pulled over, defected, and have to get rid of them.

It still gives you the general impression. Think about how much they will cost as well, and tyres will be hugely expencive.

You might want to check the legality of having 22's on a Hiace... Personally I think they'll look ridiculous. http://media.photobucket.com/image/hiace%20with%2022s/broadz/jamies%20van/rydfmx2.jpg Yep, ridiculous. You'll need to lower it a bunch as well.

Anyhoo, got the SAFC tuned, not big gains, maybe 10hp I've been told, as there was a crappy basemap on there but not much further to go. Its an improvement anyways, and has sorted out a bit of low down bogging off the line where there wasnt enough fuel getting in. Final tune is the solid colour, earlier one is the lighter colour, it was suffering badly from heat soak so the final tune looks like it has lower power but if I went for a power run it'd be more like 260RWHP. Ignore the stuff on the right, the point that data was gotten from is like 3400RPM. Keen to get a proper power run in, it'll rev a bit more then is showing as well, but I gotta get my manual button fixed first, cause with it on its still popping out of gear, Tristan had to rip out the dash and force the ECU to stay in 3rd to tune :(

Got car back. Various little fiddly fixed again, this time just a couple of noises and yay, a tune. About 260hp (at the hubs) was the highest dyno they had for the day, mind you being a tuning sesh and not a power run thats conservative due to huge heat soak from continuous runs. Wont be getting much more from the lil CT26, maybe a few more HP if I turn the boost up a bit more, but its surging a bit and if I put it up I risk starting to hit boost cut. Time to start saving for a lil Garret I think.

No probs with text. I think one prob you have is the CSS thats setting the text. Theres a rule thats setting some weird (for web) fonts, although they're being overridden most of the time by one on the body that is set to just Arial. I could see this being a prob on some computers that might be defaulting to a font other then Arial, I suggest you remove the rule on ... WTF, this file - http://www.autoclubsinternational.com/css/main-v1.0.2.css , why the hell is the forum referencing a CSS file from elsewhere?... anyways remove the rule in that file for the font on Body, add a proper font-family rule on the body in your default CSS of this: font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; Might help. If you need any help just ask, I do this for a living ;), mind you a **** HATE doing forum CSS! Soooo overly and unnecessarily complicated.