Andrew357

The Viking got me onto fuel doctor and I must say I am very impressed. Have been driving my brother's 02 Focus and it's manners are a little unpolished. Idle was rough, idle in neutral was very rough and the engine as a whole was pretty tired. Gave it a shock treatment of Fuel Doctor and the rough idling has decreased signifcantly and acceleration is abit smoother. She's still in need of some TLC but Fuel Doctor definitely worked for this little beast.

This sexy beast? She must have gotten a colour change and make the pink really stand out!

To be fair, I had my Enkeis shipped from TireRack using FedEx and it cleared fine. I've had cycling wheels/frames shipped from the UK via DHL and I haven't had an issue. I don't know of any courier that shares the major sorting facilities so you're not going to have much luck. USPS can ship wheels but to ship all as one package will be extremely expensive (Global Express Guaranteed due to the size) and sending 4 wheels as individual shipments via USPS First Class/USPS Priority Mail International/USPS EMI is very time consuming for the seller and is significantly more expensive than using an international courier. Did you find out why they opened your package?

Stretched tyres? Yuk.

Some say it cam be done; some say it cam not. I say... we cam only try *sunglasses* Yeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh!

Well Project Maintenance + 2mz Cams in underway. Have handed her over to The Viking where the following things are going to be done/replaced: - replace knock sensors - replace front O2 sensor - replace rocker cover gaskets - replace water pump - replace timing belt, idler pulleys and tensioner - replace spark plugs - replace spark tubes - replace spark leads - replace TB gasket - replace inlet manifold gaskets - install 2mz intake cams - strip and re-paint supercharger, replace snout bolts + oil plug - paint EGR assembly - paint rocker covers - replace power steering belt - replace supercharger drive belt (slightly longer belt) - radiator/engine flush - replace all radiator hosing Work was underway this weekend but due to work commitments The Viking fell a little behind. However, the cam covers are off and was pleasantly surprised to see there was very little sediment/gunk within the chamber itself. If the 2mz cams come in time, it will be interesting to see if the factory ecu will handle both the supercharger and the new inlet cams. Apparently I can see up to 20hp at the fly with just the cams alone but it's undocumented territory for 1mz with 2mz intake AND a supercharger. The boost on top of the different RPM curve will certainly be interesting but only time will tell. Just so it's not a boring text wall, here are some pictures:

If you want to go flush without spacers, you are going to have to stagger your offset or buy staggered rim widths or both. I can say with confidence that if you get a 18x8" rim: Front - +35 (you may get a tiny bit of poke) Rear - +30 (you may fall a fraction short of flush), +25 will probably give you some poke I run 18x8, +40 front and rear and I almost get flush with my fronts and the rear is still tucked away. However, if you run a F35/R30 combo and use superlow or coilovers you will need your rear guards rolled (definite) and you may need your fronts rolled as well. You could buy a pair of 18x8.5 +40 and a pair of 18x9 +40 and you'd probably be more flush than a game of poker. However, I suspect (especially for the rear) you'd have strut/suspension fouling issues. As much as I would love the flushness different offsets provide, it would make tyre rotation a biatch (unless you can afford to get them to take them off every time you rotate). There is one possible way to make things flush legally with same rim widths but I need to check some measurements and stuff first. edit: If I were you, buy a set of 18x8" +35 and live with the fact your rears aren't flush.

Handed her over to The Viking. The fix-up + cams (assuming they arrive in time) begins.

I regret to inform you that I will be unable to attend. I have to help The Viking fix my car up :( / ... Conflicting feelings

Hello Stinky McGee. Welcome to the forums and enjoy your short stay!

At minimum a touch up guy to come round, remove the emblem and do his job. Given the cost of them however, it's probably worth paying the extra for a complete respray.

Finally!

From they way you are talking, I'm assuming you have a Gen1 Kluger as the Gen2 Kluger goes pretty hard (no surprise given the 2gr is a much more powerful engine than the 3mz). The air filter is a good buy but I did abit of reading and unless you get them cheap (but given you're buying from Amazon, I know you are) they probably aren't worth the premium. Buy a K&N recharge kit for $30 from Repco/Autobarn/Supercheap and you can clean the filter yourself.

A full boot respray with sanding + blending will cost around $250.

Still cheaper than under your name though! Just declare the mod and tell your mum to tell the insurer she needs it to go faster/round corners better etc

With no increase in premiums?

When i was with AAMI they let me have 3 mods at no charge and charged me for each one after. My premium didn't change when I put on the CAI, extractors and catback but did when I added anything else to the policy. As for telling you insurers about your mods? You'd have to be an A-grade fool if you don't.

BP Ultimate/Caltex Vortex 98/Shell V-Power all claim to have cleaning properties but if you car hasn't had much tlc in the way of regular filling with these fuels/injector clean/injector cleaning additive there probably isn't too much you can do by switching over now. However, if you're not keen on paying for a proper injector clean (ultrasonic, around $150-200 depending on where you go), buy a couple of bottles of Fuel Doctor. Run a shock treatment on a full tank (1 bottle to the tank), then use single dosages on subsequent tanks until you run out. I can't comment if whether it will actually make a difference as it depends on how your injectors are currently performing. Before modding, I used to run 2/3 tanks of regular (91) and then fill with a 98 on every fourth. A full synthetic probably isn't necessary as you could get away with a good quality semi-synthetic. Something like a Penrite HPR or Mobil Super 2000 would be sufficient.

Shifted the rear sway bar back to even and installed the Whiteline RSB locks today. So far, the bar hasn't shifted but I might replace the standard bolts with something abit tougher as the heads are far too soft, even using the allen key in the lowest leverage way.

Will be heading to Hoppys around 7.15pm as the interior needs a clean. Will play it by ear.

Rain again.... HOPPYS?

If you do the rears, a Gen5/6 (same over both generations) rear brake upgrade as well. edit: I am 99% certain you can grab hubs from a Gen3/4/5 which will fit.

Yep. hub change will be best. Even the Gen6 brake upgrade would be a massive change