Silver-Aurion

You brakes are crucial to the operation of your car. As well, brake fluid is hygroscopic which means that it absorbs water. Now even though your reservoir is sealed, the is always the possibility that moisture can make it past the seal and introduce a small amount of moisture into the brake fluid. When this happens, you get a spongy feeling. It's just preventative maintenance really. It doesn't cost much to change, and it's always better to be on the safe side. With the rate I was using my brakes in my old Sportivo, I was changing fluid at 20,000km intervals or there abouts. Yeah, you can do that if you want. I would advise ordering a '65mm/67mm cap style oil filter wrench' though because the Aurion uses a cartridge style oil filter. You can remove the cap without the special tool, but I'm not going to advise how to do that here because it's just something you shouldn't really do. Plus I don't want to be held accountable if you break something. Thanks man :)

Well, if your so worried about warranty, extend it. That's what I did. But still mate, I wouldn't go saying those things about this car. It can be offensive. I've spent almost all my savings on this car with also the help from my dad. And it sucks when someone says that the Aurion is a **** car, which I don't believe so. For what we paid, you can't expect anymore then this. I'm so so happy with my purchase. So far all my warranty jobs I've had no problem with. I've had atleast 5000 dollars worth of warranty fixes on my car and toyota happily done everything free of charge. If you really hate the car. Sell it and get something else. Also, I found that a clean Aurion makes me happier that I got the car because it looks so damn good!!

It's like telling the guy who goes to the gym every morning that he doesn't have to go so often. It's all personal preference. That happens at 160,000km. Believe it or not, it doesn't actually need to be changed before that as long as it's always got the pink Super Long Life Coolant in it. That should be changed as part of the 90,000km service. Well DJK your correct once again. <_< At 90K the service book (looking at it in front of me now) says at 90K to replace: Engine oil and filter Spark Plugs Engine air cleaner filter brake fluid Tighten chassis and body bolts and nuts aircon filter Under additional maintenance it says replace auto transmission fluid(Which I will be adding) And when you go all the way to 150K it says to replace: Oil and filter engine coolant in tank fuel filter brake fluid Hmm thats weird, at 90K it says replace brake fluid, then at 150K it says replace brake fluid and again at 180K it says to replace brake fluid, why so many times Edit: My next Normal Maintenance is at 75K and the severe operating service is at 67,500K. If I were to head over to the dealer and grab the filter and oil and do the severe operating service myself would that be okay? Then at 75K take it in to get a "official" service by the dealer to keep the warranty guys happy?

I've been filling my car up with Premium ever since I got it. I first was on V-power then converted to BP Ultimate. You guys go really far to look after your cars don't you? I really don't see any point in it unless your doing some epic racing around the track in your Aurions. IMO, A Oil change and filter change according to service book is all thats needed. Then at 100,00K I'm going to do the following: Change air filter Change Oil and Filter Change Coolant Change Power steering fluid Change transmission fluid Change Spark plugs. And hopefully all those changes should last me another 100,000K (exception of oil which will still be changed at 15K)

Is that oil on the first pic?

All good. Just don't want those without knowledge on the subject to panic that their gears are getting destroyed when they aren't. A freshly adjusted foot brake from Toyota tends to be around 3 clicks till tight. They always seem to do it up like this for me, despite the manual stating 5-7 clicks. Over time though, things start to stretch/loosen so it will eventually get to 5-7 clicks though. But yeah, it's normal to have 3 clicks till tight depending on who at Toyota adjusts your brakes. Edit: LOL, I knew I said something before: clunk in my gearbox clunks when changing from park to reverse Awesome thanks. By the way, I don't think my footbrake has been freshly adjusted by Toyota. It's done 61K and I doubt its ever been adjusted. This car was a fleet vehicle for a company here in Melbourne so I doubt the past owner gave a **** about maintenance, but they did keep a service log where all services were done by Toyota. Many thanks for the helps guys. It made me feel much happier

Thanks Zerko and DJK, two great posts. "To park", you said to first engage foot brake then Shift to park, I do opposite. I first put into Park then engage park brake. "To go" that is the exact procedure I take. I will try all suggestions here and see what is the best to stop it from clunking. Seriously, as LONG as I'm not killing my transmission with the huge clunks thats okay. I thought that the gears were about to break, lol. Edit: Your right DJK, mine does roll back a bit on a incline. But very little.

Are you sure 5-7 clicks? In my Aurion the footbrake is very tight. After 3 clicks its very hard to get any more out of it because it becomes very tight. Thanks for the post though, it made a lot of sense and I understand why it could be doing this. I'm pretty sure everything in the car is in perfect working order, but I'm the one doing it wrong. Will try your suggestion though.

i didn't read all of the posts , but i go ahead anyways. Have you have the dash rattle repair done by the dealer ??. As posted in other areas there is a revised clip that holds the crash pad to the bulkhead (firewall). some people also put a layer of foam to contact the dash aswell. the guys that do the rattles at my work have found loose screws in the dash as well. on the bottom side of the dash the vents for air flow are screwed to the dash and all screws are tightened whilst the dash is out. we even go as far as maneuvering wiring looms as they all seem to creak so moving them around and helping them settle a bit works. on the left side were you indicate is the rattle there all of the time? or worse when cold. sometimes if you pressure the dash above the cluster the noise can change. It could be a wire to the air bag loose or come away, they have little plastic alligator type retaining clips hold some wires and maybe one of those is loose. if you haven't had the dash seen to as your local dealer to look into it. hopefully its still under warranty. p.s 1 other common thing is the rattle from the centre vents , i know not related to your issue , but some vents pre aug 08 can really get a rattling buzz up with the fan on. there is a revised set of centre vents to stop that problem. cheers Tim Thanks for the reply mate, but sorry about my late reply. I did not notice this thread had a reply! To answer some of your questions, as others have mentioned, it more so sounds like its coming from the LHS tweeter area. When I go over bumps, especially if its a bumpy road where it makes the car vibrate, its pretty bad. It sounds like when your furniture cracks when it's 'settling' in. I'm worried/annoyed to take it to the dealer because I have a feeling they will say nothing is wrong, and it will be a complete waste of my time. It's more of a cracking noise TBH that is settling in but never does! I do have warranty which is extended. I paid an extra $1300 (3yr/150,000). I'm currently sitting on 61,000K. I would so love to get this issue resolved. We are going to go somewhere soon, and I'm going to get my dad to drive the car while I sit in the passenger seat and put my ear to the dash and try my best to pin point where its coming from. Its hard to pin point in the drivers seat. If all else fails I might have to go to the dealer which I'm trying to avoid because it might be a waste of time. :(

+1. It looks naked without them.

When I park my car on the slightest incline like a driveway, and I engage the footbrake (at least three clicks) when I go to disengage the footbrake and change into gear the gear stays stuck in Park and I need to apply a bit of force to change into reverce and then the car severely clunks into gear. Why is it doing this? It is normal or not, it only happens when the car is parked on a slight incline. My procedure to get into reverce is, 1; press brake. 2; disengage footbrake; 3; Change gear to reverce. (I keep my foot on the brake the whole time). Number 3 is were it clunks into gear. Also when parked on a incline, when I chuck the car into Park, and then apply the foot brake then I turn off the car, the gear stick sounds like it clicks in. Whats going on here? It just severely clunked into gear before and it freaked me out because it was really bad this time.

Exactly right. If anyone understands how it works I would be so grateful. This question has been bugging me for quite sometime. Because the thing is the car does not need to be serviced at a toyota dealer but a certified dealer like ultratune. But the thing is Toyota say that to not forfiet your warranty you need the car serviced by a certified dealer as the log book states what needs to be done. But I've had heaps of warranty claims and not once was my logbook asked for. Infact I don't even keep it in my car. My dog could service my car and I could get a fake stamp and stamp the book. So how does toyota know because we aren't even ever asked for our log books?? I would love to get my car serviced by me. I hate anyone touching or doing something to my car without me being there. So what's the deal with these log books?? Just a big scam??

I have warranty on my car for another three years and so which means I need the logbook stamped. How would Toyota know that I've been doing a "certified" service and what if I don't? How would they know and how could I forfeit my warranty? All my warranty jobs, Toyota never looked at my log book or anything?

Awesome mate, I can smell the rubber from here B)

:spiteful: :spiteful: B)

Sex on wheels.

Halfway or thereabouts. Rough enough is good enough. It's not a precision gauge. lol, awk. Cheers :) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:2007_Toyota_Aurion_Prodigy_08.jpg temp gauge

Just about or on halfway? Every car I've owned (Camry and now this) the needle sits exactly halfway.

UPDATE: They have (after four visits), replaced the intermediate shaft and presto - problem gone! Cheers, SkyHigh. :o Hi All, after reading about all these steering issues which seem to be quite common,I started to notice a slight thud noise coming from the LH side whilst going over slight irregularities in our street, so I got the wife to rock the steering wheel back and forth quickly with the engine off and stuff me drunk the LH steering rack end (rod coming out of the convaluted boot) is knocking like a bitch.So I rang the service department this arvo and asked them whats this issue I hear regarding Aurions steering and he replied, Oh you mean the knock involving the intermediate shaft,(so dont let them fool you into believing the problem does not exist)I said well mines got it and when I told him our ZR6 is only 6 mths old and we bought from his dealership he said that it should already have the updated shaft.Anyway he wants to have a listen to it, check to make sure it is it ,order in whats needed. But to be honest to me it only sounds like the steering rack rod wants tightening up or if they are like other rack and pinions a nylon bush replaced at the joint nipped up to the correct torque. Can any one of you who have had this knoking noise help pin point whether it is the intermediate shaft or the rack rod making the noise in our MY10 ZR6.BY the way the cars only got 16000 ks on it never hit a pot hole Read replies 23 & 24 in this thread. Took the car into toyota yesterday and the service manager came out and inspected the knocking in the steering and informed us after checking toyota released bullitins that our car due to its manufacturing date already has the updated shaft in it and he will order in a new rack.I assumed it was only the L.H side knocking but when he got me to turn the wheels all the way to the right and rock the steering wheel back and forth, the knock is worse than the L.H side. AS I stated to him the car tracks beautifull on the road,no pulling left or right, any way I will keep you all informed of the outcome,as it might help some of you out with similar problem Interesting, I think I will try that full lock to the right and wobble steering. Good luck with everything.

Chill guys, no need to act like a d*ck to him, the guy just had a really bad accident! And yes "only" 110KM/h because over there much higher speeds are the norm unlike what we are doing here. Much slower speed are the norm. Like I said in page one, it is completely unfair to say its Toyota's problem, if you did not want the car to get mangled up at 110KM/h get a tank.

What the hell? It seems like every time someone here mod's their car, something happens to it!

Looks like we have a few guys from the Hume area. Represent B). I see a fair few done up Toyota's in MH.

1. I do agree with the grey part. I've noticed that Toyota like to use the grey, which I'm kind of sick of and way too old school. The grey has not changed from the early 90's Toyota's. 2. I think in the Optitron speedos on the Aurions look very nice in real life. I haven't seen any speedo with the car in the same range as the Aurion and have a speedo as good looking at this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:2007_Toyota_Aurion_Prodigy_08.jpg 3. And lastly, the steering wheel. Yes the steering wheel in the new cars ARE too thin. I drove my friends 02 Camry Sportivo and it has a thick steering on it and I like it. I had to put a leather(that matches my Prodigy interior of course) on my steering because it just did not feel right.

Abdu Raoof, why is there plastic on the seats? Did you JUST drive the car out of the showroom Also, is the car going to be repaired or is it totalled/write off?

Well, for about 5 minutse, I played with the grill on the LHS and the RHS and they both sound the same when tapped or pushed. But it does sound like its coming from around the grill area if I try my best to replicate the noise. Is there anyway to take the grill off so I can drive around with the grill off to see if the noise has stopped?