DeafDave76

I ran out of fuel yesterday! When I started my car it read quarter of tank of fuel left but the range was 11km. I was baffled by that and decided to test it out. I eventually did run out of fuel just 20 mins after leaving home. I wasn't flooring anything at all. I was driving like a nanny. So when I said on 13th September which was a Tuesday, it went down to empty just 5 days later. I was in fact driving a lot on the weekend so yeah the fuel readings baffled me a lot. No warning light! I did run out of fuel just as I was getting into BP petrol station. The question is: why didn't the low fuel light come on at the start up and why did the fuel gauge reading say quarter of tank left but the trip computer says 11 kms range left to go to empty? some people says 30kms left to go, the warning light comes on. I am kinda confused what just happened. For your query, my car is 2010 Toyota Aurion (built April 2010 bought October 2010). I am thinking the fuel sensor must be dirty?

Actually I had just filled my car up with Shell V-Power 98 RON and I can say it isn't all that cracked up to begin with. True you might get a bit more performance out of it but it comes at an expense to fuel economy. I agree with that spreadsheet above here. I had 91 RON from Shell 3 weeks ago and it lasted me that long for 3 weeks around town! I am switching back to Shell 91 RON then BP Ultimate to "clean" the interior then switch back to 91 RON and so on. Waitaminute. I'm confused now. Do you consume less fuel over the same distance if you use 91 RON as opposed to 98 RON? I thought with the higher octane rating, you use less? Anyway with Shell V-Power 98 RON fluctuating between $1.07 and $1.25 per litre, I'm probably going to start using 91 RON more and more now. Fuel costs are starting to get stupid :( . Where do you live? I'm lucky to get 91 without E10 for $1.35! I live in Victoria Park W.A. and the V-Power 98 RON is $1.40 to $1.58 a litre depending location of the cheapest to expensive Shell stations. With 98 RON from Shell I used up fuel in just 2 weeks but when I had 98 RON from BP Ultimate, the fuel range actually increases thus using less fuel. I don't know why they are different. I always goes to Shell for 91 RON petrol and they are usually $1.25 to $1.35 a litre, again depending on the location of the cheapest to expensive Shell stations. I would avoid Gull and Caltex petrols as both seems to be using more fuel than Shell or BP does when using 91 RON. For the record, I get 9.5 per 100kms when going for a long drive on freeway to bunbury and back. In combined cycle, it's 9.8 to 10.5 per 100km. Right now since I have filled up just last wednesday, I am between 3rd quarter and half tank mark on the cluster. That was with 98 RON V-Power and I expect it to be gone by next wednesday (confirming the 2 week fuel usage)

Actually I had just filled my car up with Shell V-Power 98 RON and I can say it isn't all that cracked up to begin with. True you might get a bit more performance out of it but it comes at an expense to fuel economy. I agree with that spreadsheet above here. I had 91 RON from Shell 3 weeks ago and it lasted me that long for 3 weeks around town! I am switching back to Shell 91 RON then BP Ultimate to "clean" the interior then switch back to 91 RON and so on.

Dude if I had known this I would have given you my 17" toyota genuine alloys for that as a straight swap. Also I am unsure if you are actually in Perth area. If not then on to saving up for the new rims. 17" looks a bit small for my car lol

That's what I thought about the Nightbreaker being used on foggies. I will do that one. I understand now about the washer on the bumper. Alright what was the strongest non-HID for the low beam? Someone mentioned they used CrystalVision on their car without needing to convert to HID as a way of saving their $$$$. But from where i am reading on the website, 4300K sounds like it is a HID globe and not the actual Halogen? Sorry for the question but I am thinking of upgrading the lighting while the car is in repairers on the week of 4th july. The strongest for low beam which is H11 is still Osram Nightbreaker. 4300k just means the temp the light is. You see halogen claiming to be 6000k as well but that's just colour not intensity. A dark blue coating on the light bulb making the light look more white. You can buy H11 nightbreakers here with free shipping and a pair of free W5W lights. You can ask for the blue W5W instead of the standard clear. http://www.powerbulbs.com/product_detail.asp?prod=113 Ah sorry I was so busy that I forgot to reply to this post! Hmm that link looks good. I will buy them soon before the car goes into the repairers in 2 weeks!

That's what I thought about the Nightbreaker being used on foggies. I will do that one. I understand now about the washer on the bumper. Alright what was the strongest non-HID for the low beam? Someone mentioned they used CrystalVision on their car without needing to convert to HID as a way of saving their $$$$. But from where i am reading on the website, 4300K sounds like it is a HID globe and not the actual Halogen? Sorry for the question but I am thinking of upgrading the lighting while the car is in repairers on the week of 4th july.

Don't use HIDs for fog lights unless you want to blind everyone in front of you. If you really must get HIDs then get 3000k Yes the Presara headlight will fit in a Touring because they both have the same shape. Do you intend to get the front bumper for the washers and suspension for the auto leveling as well? That's why I was wondering about that. I only use the foggies when I am in a dark area or if there is a real fog but as I recall last friday we had a extremely bad weather driving and the foggies weren't bright enough to illuminate the wet road. Looks like I have to get a special globe that isn't a HID for foggies. I seem to recall reading somewhere someone used a nightbreaker globes on the foggies? As for the other one regarding Presara headlights, I assumed the Presara headlights comes fitted with washers and auto levelling. I didn't realise you had to get a new bumper for that. Looks like I need to get a brighter globe that looks like HID, I believe a nightbreaker one. I also read somewhere they were bright enough and close to HID level. Is this what they were talking about? http://www.invisionsales.com/lighting/philips/headlight-upgrades/be-seen or http://www.osram.com.au/osram_au/Professional_Products/Automotive_Lighting/Products/Headlights/NIGHT_BREAKER/NIGHT_BREAKER_Family/index.html

Hmm I do find this topic interesting. Last saturday night I drove thru Wellard and it was so dark and very under lighted areas. I had to turn on my foggies AND high beam in order to see where I was going! I ended up getting lost at 1st cos of bad directions by the hostess of the dinner party I went to last saturday night. Turns out I made a wrong turn off freeway onto mortimer rd and it only took a quick glance at the map book to figure out it was the other way I needed to go. And yes I still used the foggies and high beam to get to the right area. Finally I got into the correct suburb and it was lighted a bit but still under lighted so I turned off the high beam but my lights for some reason wasn't bright enough in the area. So I am already thinking of having HID put in my car and converting parker to leds. 2 questions: I am unsure if foggies have to be HID or just leds? Can a Presara headlight complete with HID kit fit into Aurion Touring?

Hmmm judging by the background photos, I'd say you are from victoria park area cos those houses looks a lot like on my street or near there cos I walk my dogs in the area plus it is the only area without underground power!

Man that looks good! While white exterior colour is a tad boring, the interior colour scheme is a good idea. Maybe they should do same for other colours like: Aurion Silver Aurion Blue Aurion Red Aurion Gold

My Aurion Touring does have front sensor so hmmm I might have to check with the local smash repairer on the bumper replacement/repair to check with. I rear ended the other car but not a bad one. The kind when you take off only to hit the other car if you know what I mean? I haven't checked the sensors on it yet after the accident.

the topic pretty much says it all. I had an accident on last saturday late arvo during traffic jam to get to Dockers vs Cats AFL game (pretty still angry about the game). Although it is classed as a minor accident on account of my car's damage. I was just taking off and cos of the sun in my eyes (I had sunglasses on!!) I didn't even notice the driver has stopped and I rear ended him but luckily it was relatively low speed impact (20kmh my estimation but it could have been 40kmh who knows?). While the damage to mine is minor, the damage to subaru was a bit more than mine. He was heavily dented in but we both were still driveable. And I figured out why I wasn't able to see the subaru stop: he had altezza lights which looked so blended into his silver paintwork when you have sun rays in your eyes. I will attach photos when I get home tonight as it is on my new phone and the cables at home. I will edit this post tonight. EDIT sorry for the delay cos of the funeral, now I have attached the photo.

Ok I can do both Toymods and TOCAWA. You are correct about TECCWA being older cars. I have not seen any new cars in these pictures.

Hmmm so you are saying the TECCWA has better chance of car cruises than the TOCAWA does? I am debating wether to join up as a member there

Hmmm...considering this is new year after all! Yeah we should organise a TOCA meets and short cruises once every fortnight or once a month. The day has to be either Thursday night or Friday night or Saturday night. Sunday to Wednesday night sucks cos most people are on shift those days. For longer cruises e.g. from Perth riverside drive car park to say Kwinana/Rockingham/Mandurah/Bunbury (Mandurah and Bunbury ideal for BBQ lunch?)or from Perth riverside drive to York or from Perth riverside drive to 2 Rocks/Yanchep/Lancelin (these are ideal for BBQ lunch?) I am also happy with photoshoot. I have been thinking we should organise a photoshoot to make a calendar for TOCAWA e.g. 1 month has Aurion owners, other month has Corollas etc. or 1st 6 months have best looking cars (each make) and the other 6 month a mosaic style of each car makes ranging from Yaris right up to Landcruisers.

At a risk of sounding like a noob, which I am, I have been meaning to find out where the W.A. Aurion owners and the other TOCAWA members meet up at and how often. I couldn't find it in the search function and the W.A. Meets thread seems dead

http://www.themotorreport.com.au/51238/perth-motor-show-returning-in-august

Thanks ronny but I did get injured in that accident. I got lower back injury as result of being rear ended that hard which caused the driver's seat to snap back, throwing me right onto the back seat. Yes I am walking around but at slower pace than i am used to. My old car only had front air bags but nothing else like side or rear air bags. The girl's commodore had both of her air bags fully deployed.

As a general rule, cars with monocoque frames are more likely to be written off in moderate/severe impacts because of the way they are constructed. Compared to similar sized cars with a separate chassis and body bolted on top, monocoques are much lighter and yet are equal in structural strength, if not greater. The downside of the monocoque is because of the way loads are distributed throughout the whole frame, strong impact loads end up being distributed throughout the frame (as designed), and catastrophic failure is usually seen in areas away from the impact zone. This makes it far too hard to repair, and it would never be possible (or at least too hard to) return the chassis back to it's original strength and integrity. In other words, the monocoque chassis is friggin awesome for deflecting the crash energy AROUND the occupants, but the downside is if the crash energy is high enough, you get multiple catastrophic failures distributed all around you (hence the twisting and warped doors etc). This then makes it no longer feasible to repair. I think in this instance the car did exactly what it was designed to do; Protect the occupants. Cheers, BB BeepBeep is right. I had to look online straight after the phone call to find out why my old car was written off. It was to do with body crumble zone, in other words what BeepBeep just said. See attached the pictures of my old car. It did look repairable and you can even see the intact tail lights and rear window. But you can see the rear doors were bent in.

Sorry to hear about the write off but when I had my magna and it got written off by a bogan hot uni chick driving a holden commodore (her fault as she admitted she didn't see me stop), it looked repairable until I had a phone call saying it was a write off as I had body zone crumbled and transmission cracked right in the middle (that's how hard the impact was when being rear ended) But it was a cataylst for me to save up for my current car which is only now 2 months since I purchased the aurion :) I wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy new year. I wish you luck in your next purchase, be it another Toyota Aurion or any other car brands.

What other thread? I can't seem to find it??

Hi Newbie, The topic of which is the best fuel has been covered at length. There's probably a wealth of info on this, so you might want to try searching first? If you still can't get answers to your query, then feel free to post a specific questions. The moderators get rather annoyed if the same questions keep getting asked over and over again.. However, as a matter of personal choice, I only use Premium ULP (eg PULP 95 - Shell, or Vortex 98 - Caltex). Can't really help you there.. I'm in WA and you didn't specify what style alloys are you after. There are at least two styles I know of from Toyota - standard alloys like on the Presara and the Kappa 17". Yes there is, and you have two main options. The first is the good ol' spray on stuff by any rustproof/tinting provider (eg Tint-a-Car), and the second option is to install a ERPS (Electronic Rust Proofing System) which is a module installed in your engine bay which provides electronic protection by preventing the loss of electrons from the atomic structure of the iron in the steel components of your vehicle (i.e. prevents or greatly minimises RUST). You only need one module for the whole car. They are available from a Toyota Dealer, or you may choose to go for an aftermarket module. These are available from a 4WD shop or a good auto parts shop. I personally went the ERPS way because it covers everything and NOT just the undercarriage. Spray on stuff covers your undercarriage, but not anywhere above it.. Congrats on the new ride! Cheers, BB 1st off - congratulations on the purchase of the Aurion. You won't be disappointed. I am still in honeymoon mode As to the petrol question - I wouldn't put in E10! I use BP Ultimate which is 98RON. It is also economical as I have filled my car between 2 weeks to 3 weeks if I am lucky enough. And that's with both city and highway use As for the rims, it is more of personal choice but yeah I wouldn't use dealer rims as they look too stock. I have stock rims but thinking of upgrading from stock to aftermarket but still same size. If you want to go larger, keep stock suspension and shocks. I plan to do that as well! Rust proofing - now my car hasn't got it but thanks to the suggestion from BEEPBEEP, I may as well dump the dealer and go for the auto parts one to have them install ERPS. Yeah BEEPBEEP's right the spray on one is just for undercarriage.

I have been using BP Ultimate from get go after the original full tank was finished except one time when I actually did run out of fuel but luckily enough I ended up near the Caltex so used the 98 uh vortex (right word?). With this and BP Ultimate, my tank goes empty in just 2 and half weeks or if I am lucky 3 weeks. All that involved in stop and start traffic! Back to the topic, well my old 02 Magna had fuel injector cleaner every 4th fill up so i pretty much kept the fuel system clean of build up. So for my current car, I have no idea how to spot the flat spots?

Checked the build date. It was 04/10 so the fix has already been implemented by then?

My name is Dave and I am from W.A. And of course my nickname meant that I am deaf but I have cochlear implant in the right and a normal hearing aid in the left. That's about right Mish?