Hiro

w00t, a local member at last, and with a TRD as well (Ash the Piker would have filled those shoes before, until he woosed out of a job :P )

ST165 is a GenI 3SGTE, not Gen2

Since you said '98, I assume you have an AE101/102. According to the EWG (Electronic Wiring Diagram) from the Gregorys workshop manual, the wires coming from the oxygen sensor (O2 sensor) should be black and brown (B and N codes on the diagram). The brown wire goes to ground, the black wire goes to the OX pin on the ECU plug and the OX1 terminal on the diagnostics connector.

First thing to do would be to find out what box you have in there at the moment - normally the VIN plate will be able to enlighten you on that. Failing that, chances are it'll be a W- or G-series box (I'm thinging G-series because of the column-shift), in which case there's a good chance of a 5-speed from a Hilux etc fitting, as long as it is also a column-shift (may need to swap some shifter parts though, I'm not that versed in column-shifts). Or you can always convert it to a floor-shift, but that's probably a bit more work due to the location of the cab relative to the 'box.

Wouldn't really matter, chances are it never gets driven about 10km/h anyway.

Posted here because your inbox is full: I got my Gregorys from AutoOne, any reputable parts store (even Supercheap and Repco) will happily order one in for you if it's not on the shelves already, if not then they come up on eBay from time to time. They're hard to download because no-one bothers to scan them in - they're not rare like genuine factory manuals so no-one sees the point.

There's a whole sub-culture over there now that's taking over from low-riders called Donks or Hi-Risers, once again it's part of the stupid hip-hop culture of spending ridiculous amounts of money on making something look more ridiculous than your enemies....and then doing drivebys.

FWD car... lock the rear wheels and it will just drag them arround. Maccas trays help, just locking the wheels will still give you too much lateral grip at the slow speeds you'd be going at.

As I've said many times before, get the service manual :P But to take the parkers out, first pop the bonnet. Then undo the single screw bolting the parker cluster to the headlight cluster (it'll be a Phillips-head screw on top of the headlight). Then, wiggle the parker towards the front of the car (it has some spring-clip thingies holding it in too) until it pops free. Then turn the globe holder anti-clockwise and pull out the holder, thus giving you access to the globe itself. I'm sure you can work out what to do from there on.

As with most Toyotas (if not most cars) the temp gauge should sit slightly below the halfway mark (no more than a tick or two though) First, get yourself a Gregorys or similar workshop manual - they're indispensable for all the DIY stuff. Worthwhile checking first is if the thermofans are operating correctly - they should turn on when the engine gets hot but turn off when travelling on the highway. If they're on all the time then the car might not reach correct operating temperature. Also worth checking is that the thermostat in there is working correctly - take it out and dunk it in a pot of water and slowly bring it to the boil (with a thermometer in there too), and note the temperature at which the thermostat opens. Compare that to the standard opening temperature - if it opens at the correct temperature then it's not a problem, if it opens too early then that could explain your problem - and replace if necessary.

Definitely 1VZ, most likely out of an imported narrow-body Camry that the ES250 was based off (Vista/Windom)

Mobil fuel hasn't been Mobil for ages anyway, right? Just re-branded BP or Caltex fuel.

Where did that 1000 come from? And why did it suddenly change to m^2/s? Your numbers are screwed - you've changed from m/s to m^2/s for no apparent reason, and then decided to introduce kilograms. Why are you bringing atmospheric pressure into it? 1) That will vary depending on altitude 2) As you said, you will get venturi effect inside the engine 3) Atmoshperic pressure isn't the density of air (they are related though) You're ending up with meaningless numbers...m^2kg/s? What use is that? You'll either want volumetric (m^3/s) or mass (kg/s) flow rates

I doubt it's a "pour" anyway - aircon condensation is a steady drip, and anything that "pours" out will be empty after only a couple of drives, making it's lack of presence immediately noticeable (coolant = engine overheating and blowing, oil = engine overheating and blowing, power-steering = steering becomes heaps harder and you hit a wall, brake fluid = brakes don't work and you hit a wall, clutch fluid = clutch won't work gearbox grinds and won't change gears and you'll get distracted and hit a wall)

What colour is it? Coolant will be either green or red, oil will be black, fuel will smell, power steering fluid will be red etc etc And whereabouts is it dripping from? If any fluid is leaking then checking all your fluid levels will tell you what it is, the location will help too In saying this I'm assuming it's not condensation from the air-con, if you've had the aircon on for any decent amount of time then you'll get fairly steady drips coming from the vent pipe, this is completely normal.

I think you need to be a silver member to see attachments

but my username is based on that fictional sapce cruiser well its not really anymore now u put rice in it.... so acendant means nothing now without justice....y cant it just be william rice lol Because the rice constantly ascends to new levels? haha you guys are so harsh.. ;) Fortunately Will has matured enough to know that it's all in good fun...

You're going about it the wrong way - think of flow as a cross-sectional area moving at a speed. So you'll have roughly 7m^2 moving at roughly 260m/s...multiply the two and you'll have (7x260)(m^2 x m/s), giving you 1820 cubic metres / second, or 1820000L/s

Just spray-paint the tennis-ball silver :P

I'm a drafty/design engineer in the mining vehicle industry, so I see millimetres combined with tonnes all the time, and that gives big big numbers...

Engineers wouldn't scoff at those numbers at all. We're used to seeing things x10^9 (giga) all the time.

Correcting lift-off oversteer in a FWD car requires little bit of opposite lock (but you take it back to neutral once the back end gets back in line), and throttle. Braking will just make things worse. Then again, there are times when it just can't be corrected - generally FWD cars understeer (which is good in that it is relatively safe and easily corrected) but once lift-off oversteer kicks in it needs to be controlled VERY quickly otherwise you're screwed. I had a situation a few years ago where I hit standing water just before a corner and aquaplaned straight ahead. Coming out of the water I already had my wheels turned, so the front of the car kicked around. Loaded up opposite lock, but tapped the brakes a little too much (was more concerned about getting out of the oncoming traffic), and the rear end did a full 180, swinging out halfway into oncoming traffic, and ending up actually jumping the gutter side-on and facing back the way I had come. Scared the ***** out of me

I'd say throwout bearing too, and they can go even at relatively low ks (parent's Mazda2, which has been reliable as the sun since day 1, had the throwout bearing go at about 70,000km). Gear rollover is such a stupid term though, what's wrong with the proper gear term called backlash?

Because back then things were made pretty rock solid inside and the hit usually travelled to everything inside. Now they are made with so much plastic that when you hit it, the plastic absorbs the shock instead. ... Just a though. Funny you mention that though. We have an old-school widescreen CRT TV. It may be big and heavy, but the picture on it beats any LCD on the market. The image on it does play up every now and again, and the perfect solution is to give it a good whack on the top. Whacking works with TVs because you've got mechanical items in there like BFFO (big fat ****-off) magnets and electron guns that can get out of alignment (the whole reason you have a de-gauss function on CRT monitors), a physical impact can jarr them so could (with luck) realign things These days where everything is transistor-based and LCDs/plasmas rule, these mechanical items are disappearing and being replaced with electrical ones that don't respond to physical actions.

JDM-spec yo Cars have different names in different countries remember.