Topdog

Did you have ir programmed??

Haynes would be the way to go. I have one for my 20001 Camry but it covers 1997-2003. Sure one covering 1992 would be available though..

You could remove and dismantle them, then do a *** job stripping the paint off and repainting them. Any attempt to do it otherwise would do a lot of damage to the seals, which will require replacing anyway, however you do it...It's not a hard job.

It is a common problem with any car A/C and is usually caused by fungal/mould build up after using the A/C on the internal circulating mode a lot, much like carpet when it gets wet and smelly. Generally putting the unit into the mode where the outside air is passed through it will cure most of this. Best done on a dry warm day.. Some owners manuals address the problem....

Had a similar problem with my window winders where the passenger side would intermittently not work from the drivers side armrest console but would work OK using the passenger side one. The fault was in the driver side armrest unit, which I was advised by Toyota are supposedly not serviceable and a new unit would be around $400. Being the cheapskate that I am I decided to have a go at fixing it, which I did successfully and here's how to do it. Carefully with a small screwdriver or similar, lever out the unit from the armrest, unplug the unit and take to a oomfortable clean workspace. You will now need a small philips head screwdriver, some very fine wet/dry paper or points file., a pencil and paper, white sheet or pillow case. Very carefully unscrew the base and remove it. Be warned the pieces inside are small and some are spring loaded. Once you have the base off note how the unit and all contacts are assembled. What you will find is that some or all of the contacts will be very dirty with a lot of black carbon on them and it is this that needs to be cleaned off using the wet/dry paper or small file. I found it easier to remove all the moving parts and clean the lot. This is why it is very important to remember how it all goes together, though you will find that is it reasonably easy to reassemble but fiddly. Another suggestion is to do everything on a large sheet of paper or even an old white bed sheet. That make it easy to find any dropped parts. Once you have cleaned all the contacts reassemble the unit very carefully and plug the unit back in and replace in the armrest. If all went well the unit should now function OK. It can be done but be very careful. A quick fix sometimes is to try and spray some CR7 or similar in under the switch button. This I have found is only a short term fix as it will not remove the carbon buildup on the cotacts, but you could be lucky and find it is only a sticky switch unit. Edit: On reflection my reply may not be the answer to your problem is but I will leave the info here as it may just help someone. Don't know if that helps but if you're game give it a go.

I just recently replaced my plugs with iridium(2005 Hatch) and had no dramas. The only cover you need to remove would be the plastic cover sitting over the top of the motor and if you find the spanner is just spinning I would say as the one of previous posters said "try another size" I wouldn't imagine the later models would be much, if any, different to the earlier ones.

Haynes/Gregory's put out a very good repair/maintenance book for the DIY enthusiast, cost is around $40 mark at Repco stores. While some of these manuals are for American models I have found when you just reverse what you see for left hand drive they all look the same. I have one for both my 2001 Camry(V6...manual covers V6 and 4 cylinder models) and my 2005 Corolla Hatch.

Just fill sump with new oil as required and when you run the engine to check for leaks etc. the filter with fill all by itself. You may need to add a bit more oil to make up what goes into the filter, the amount will depend on filter size.

Don't know what the body and under bonnet differences are specifically. A quick browse through doesn't appear to mention Sportivo as such, just the note on the back cover which states "Does not include information specific to Sportivo turbo charged models" If I come across any references in the meantime I'll post a note. Otherwise if you find a copy they may let you browse through it. They come in a sealed pack which I find can be annoying when you want to see if the article is exactly what you want and they won't let you open it... Edit: Further perusal doesn't seem to show any specific detail relating directly to the Sportivo, turbo or otherwise...

I know there are two threads on the subject at the moment but I thought this was worthy of a new one. This morning I picked up a Haynes Repair Manual from a Repco store which covers Corollas 1997 to 2006, Hatchback...Sedan and Wagons...1.6 & 1.8L motors,AE101,102,112, & ZZE122..Cost Was $38 with an RACWA discount...I have always found these books to be detailed enough to be able to do most things a DYI person would be doing including servicing schedules...This one is for R/H drive models so you don't need a mirror. One note is this manual does not cover Sportivo supercharged models. FYI: ISBN No. 1 56392 668 7

I can only answer based on past experience and what my Camry Factory Repair manual says. Bleed rear brakes first, then front. Rear brakes cannot be bled if the fronts are done first. As this procedure is generally regarded as standard I wouldn't think yours would be any different..

While on this subject I noticed a label on the inside of the hood on my recently purchased 2005 Corolla. "This vehicle has been filled with Toyota Long Life coolant and does not require replacement until 100000 Km, thence as per replacement specification of any other coolant used. When I replaced the coolant in my V6 Camry I used Nulon Long Life and is just about due for renewal(after 4 years). I have had no problems with it, but as it is green, not red you need to be meticulous in draining and flushing any previous coolant, especially if it is red. Red and Green MUST NOT be mixed!!! NOTE: Any coolant used should meet the specifications as set out in the Factory Service Manual...As with any fluids or oils used.

While standing for longish periods of time you will get a slight forming of rust on the rotors which will cause short term squealing. If it persists it could be stuck pistons in your calipers. Could also be a foreign object caught between one of the the pads and rotors. I have had instances of the second type in different cars and the problem has been the slides in the calipers gumming up, usually caused if the dust seals are damaged or dislodged and is most noticeable when cornering. If it's not the brakes then an inspection of your engine drive belts and pulleys may be in order. As for wind noise, it could be anything. Do you always check all your passengers are on board

Sorry, That should have read $29(missed the shift key and I couldn't edit it later and I hoped no one would notice LOL). The transmission sump was removed & cleaned and fluid replacement was the recommended type(as per Factory Service Manual) and grade.(Castrol DexronIII), also for good measure the filter was removed and thoroughly cleaned (it is metal and serviceable). Coolant replacement was a quality brand and type and mix as recommended in the same Toyota Factory Manual. Trust that clears up a few things.

Thanks for that, hadn't checked it out as I didn't get a maintenance/service log book with the car, seems to have gone missing and despite the dealer's assurance to get me a replacement, I have still one. The downloaded manual I have is for 2004 and they mention either belt or chain...

Unfortunately I have biggish hands but I have had a look and also have plenty of extensions, otherwise it's off with the air plenum. Thanks for the encouragement. Toyota quoted $307 to do it.......

See my post in another thread("problems I don't understand")..I will be doing my own servicing on my Corolla(because I can), even with 12 months new car warranty still on it. I declined "Extended Warranty" offered by the dealer as I don't think any of them are worth the paper their written on,especially after you read them thoroughly and see all the loopholes and restrictions in them. Did the same with my Camry and have not regretted it one bit.

2001 V6 Conquest, auto. Apart from transmission fluid change at 60000k($50), 1 new set of front pads(429), brake fluid change(now due again), coolant change($17, also now due) the rest is just regular oil and oil filter changes at 6 monthly intervals(around $35) plus time doing visual inspections as per service manual is about it. That's over a 6 year period. Dreaded plug change is just about due as I am at 98000k.. Runs like a clock....

Just joined the Corolla brigade(2005) around 6 weeks ago(already been added to the WA police photo gallery, feisty little buggers these) as a second car to our 2001 Camry V6. Only servicing done so far is changed the original plugs for Iridiums. Nothing due till mid November but I have noticed some interesting things regards service intervals. Owners manual says transmission fluid is for life unless used under extreme conditions and I have just found a little almost inconspicuous label on the inside of the bonnet which states that the vehicle was factory filled with Toyota Long Life coolant and does not require replacement until 100000K(or 160000 miles) thence at intervals dependent on coolant type used and it's recommended interval. Timing belt I would imagine would be similar to the Camry at 150000k, need to check and confirm. BTW I changed from red to green(Nulon LL, 4 years) in the Camry and have had absolutely no problems with it, just about due for change.

Last time I did my 2001 Camry V6 it cost me $29 for a set of pads from Supercheap and 30 minutes to change. No rotor machining required..That was 13/11/2005 and 12000ks ago and hardly a sign of wear...Just about due for a fluid change...BTW still on the original rear pads after 97000ks..

I once had a dealer recommend injector cleaning at 50000K and $95 for my 2001 Camry V6. Local injector specialist said if it ain't broke don't fix it...That was 30000ks ago and I haven't had any problems with them. Same will apply for my recently acquired 2005 Corolla Hatch. In fact I am seriously considering doing my own work on this one as well even with 15mths NCW still on it. Just watch when rotating wheels that you don't have unidirectional tyres such as my Camry, 17inch alloys and the tyretread pattern is designed primarily for one direction only, so the fronts go to the rear and vice versa but on the same side of the vehicle.

Forget it. Old post, but just for the record there is no separate drain for the diff and tranny on the V6s, leastways not anymore. So if you can't find one. it's because there is none. Toyota Workshop Manual confirms this.

Checked out the procedure in my Camry manual and it's four pages long... Don't know whether it would work for other models though..

Try your insurance people. If it's bad enough to be declared unsafe you may get them to replace it. Most will cover one windscreen a year with no excess.

Usually this happens if all or most of the adjustment is done one one tie rod only...It has happened to me.