mg85

Arghh mine is the same the fuel gauge reads low which gives you a pessimistic range (DTE) but the L per 100kms is pretty accurate having previously checked with litres used against Kms travelled over a few tanks. Couldn't imagine there would be an easy fix for this one.

I'm with this, but I do mine every 10K or 6 months, I think 15k in 9 months of city driving in particular is too long for this engine. Manufactures have a great financial motivation to extend service intervals to the max since capped price servicing has come along.

The sway bar I took off the car was no where close to 4mm wall thickness, my point was it is way to light for the job it was supposed to be doing.

I bought a rear Sway bar for my GSV40 from Ultra Racing with no probs, I was surprised to see the original bar is made from very light hollow tube no wonder body roll was an issue.

If sludge turns out to be a problem I would use this product http://www.costeffective.com.au/Product/27/flushing-oil-concentrate where you drain the oil fill it with new oil (can be cheap stuff) get it to operating temperature (important), add the concentrate run engine for the recommended revs and time then drain and replace filter and refill with a good oil. let us know how you get on

Funny how everyone seems to think it does not get cold in Queensland ay......

Interesting article here really shows the difference between the rubbish tyres on the goodies with some surprising results I bought the Continentals with good results so far. http://translate.google.com.au/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fmpshina.com%2Ftests%2F123451038 If you have problem with the link copy & paste this into the Translate field http://mpshina.com/tests/123451038 You may have to search for the odd Russian heading on the tables with google translate to get the gist of it

I wouldnt be servicing the transmission like this you would be just guessing about getting the fluid level right if you don't have Techstream Software on a laptop to do it yourself get is serviced by a dealer or reputable ATF facility

I see the latest US dependability survey of owners and problems per 100 cars is out, top of the heap was Lexus 95, Porsche 97 then Toyota 113 not a bad result. With Kia & Hyundai coming in a bit below the industry average with 153 and 158 respectably.

This topic is like herding cats......................

E85 is only suitable for a very limited number of vehicles and the Aurion is not one of them.

Hi Jet, Wow 10% better economy from Amsoil that's impressive is that made by Amway? I not sure you are getting my point. Fuel economy has two parts, $ per litre and L per 100kms in the real world. I pulled this from the Drive.com article you linked to "However, it was the E10-fuelled car that was the cheapest to run over the entire 1764-kilometre, two-day highway trip. It used $172.65 in E10, compared with $189.15 worth of 98 RON for the car running on premium unleaded" Also this test was done using E10 which is not as efficient as 91 ron unleaded (has to be 3-4c) cheaper to break even over 91 ron unleaded because of the ethanol not being as efficient "Source recent RACQ report" I see you are based in NSW with and have government mandate (July 2015) for 6% ethanol. In Qld we do not have this yet and most servos sell 91 ron unleaded so it would even better economy had they used 91 unleaded ron in this test. My car gets slightly better L per 100 kms but not enough to cover the extra cost of 98. I'm sure most cars would get better L per 100 kms but my whole point has been it will cost you more to get there in fuel cost, as the quote from the article has found it's just plain economics. If you think your engine will last longer using 98 that would be an interesting point. I wonder if anyone has any data or test or such on this subject???

What oil did you change to? and how much better fuel economy are you getting over the Castrol oil? 98 is on average about is about 20% dearer the 91 Does your car achieve 20% better fuel economy on 98? I can say my Aurion does no where near that.

Vpower or Ultimate? probably very little fuel economy wise they are both 98 ron. Cleaning power who knows? I would not expect a significant fuel economy improvement by changing to a synthetic oil if that is a motivation. The benefit would be less engine deposits.

Hi Esiah, With the Aurion my experience is when the fuel economy kms per litre display resetting itself every time you fuel up, your driving conditions/style from that point eg: freeway or city seems to have a big bearing on what happens to the kms per L for an undue amount of time. It may take a while to average out, I think you will find that the extra cost of the 98 will not be translated into $$ saved over 91 ron from a cost per km driven point of veiw, however I use a tank now and again for the cleaning properties of Vpower/Ultimate but it certainly does not improve my km per L that much at all. Re post above: I would expect my Aurion to be getting high 7s on a trip up the hwy from Sydney to the Hunter on 91 ron. I have always used CASTROL EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4 which is Synthetic and reasonably priced on special. In the end economy is directly linked to your right foot ay, there are so many variables in drivers. A decent run on Cruise control on the same stretch of road is probably the best way to compare fuels.

Hey Trent, Keep us informed how the Genesis of your neighbour performs ay. In the march RACV they did a test on it against the Holden SV6 and the Lexus ES300h and it come out on top over the Lexus which surprised me although the Genesis scored a 1 for fuel consumption where the Lexus scored a 9, but build finish score was equal. I am a bit sus on car reports as they are short term, owners review's have more cred for me. For those of us old enough to remember, the Leyland P76 won WHEELS car of the year once and it turned out to be one of worst cars ever made. WHEELS car of the year was considered the pinnacle of awards back then. Andrew my partner has Kia Optima 2012 2.4l for a company car. I see the new GT has a 2.0l turbo engine smaller engine with 32kw over the old but being turbo you may loose some drivability?? I certainly wouldn't swap our 2011 Aurion for her Kia it is pretty gutless on the freeway any small hill will have the 6 speed auto changing up and down Ok around town though. It has heaps of extras on it but these are not as good as the Toyota and certainly not a smooth and refined as the Aurion to drive. Its noisy Leather seats are very ordinary and not comfortable Reversing camera on the rear-view mirror is poor Uses more fuel than the Aurion I would take one for a spin on the freeway before decide Has an awesome big boot though Maybe Hyundai has lifted the Kia quality let us know ay.

Great informative (if somewhat a bit radical) post Ashley. My personal opinion is 15,000km or 9 months of city driving is stretching the service intervals a bit for the Aurion, I see some manufacturers like Mazda are sticking to the 10,000km 6months service intervals on some of their vehicles.

Just pulling your chain mate. I admire the way you love your TRD and totally understand that and figured that from the start. My original post was all about it is not a great car to modify due to limitations of the engine/drivetrain to get any big increase in power with reliability and my reference to the XR6 was just a suggestion if you want a strong car to get a big increase in power from relatively cheaply. It was all about economics pure and simple

I'm a bit lost with this, clutch type LSD's generally require modified fluid otherwise they do not function as designed how would this be possible with WS auto fluid in the transmission. Any suggestions?

Is this one of those?

LSD a Front wheel drive, not good except for maybe the tyre manufacturers. Agree with Trent "bench grinder" that's dodgy as.

Are you sure your not just going to save the money on a that costly TRD engine rebuild for maybe 50-60 kw and buy a new XR6 Turbo Sprint with up to 375kw (overboost) standard, mate

Thanks for keeping us informed Allan, will be interesting to see the outcome.

Hi Allan, Let us know how you get on ay, as you have no doubt discovered scheduled servicing is paramount on most modern cars.

Sorry mate I would have to take off the plastic inner guards to take any useful pics. I stuck it onto the outside footwell area (metal bodywork) which you can easily see one you have the inner guard almost all off, Take the wheel off first to allow easy access. One sheet is enough to do one side almost perfectly.