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marks_2_sparks

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marks_2_sparks last won the day on March 6 2018

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About marks_2_sparks

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Profile Information

  • Toyota Model
    AE92
  • Toyota Year
    1991
  • Location
    Victoria

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  • First Name
    Mark

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  1. I saw a few ebay listings for rebuilt ones or swap a motor for a rebuilt one. Might be a go if the budget fits.
  2. Mostly the townace and hilux. Check Wikipedia for other applications, that's all I'm doing "Toyota 3y engine". There's a few low emission versions but not likely to be here in Australia.
  3. The townace van of same age range also had the y series engine. You could also look for a 3y which is the 2L version and should be a straight swap, I have not done much with these motors but if the other Toyota motors around that age are anything to go by a 3y would be a small bump in power and a straight swap
  4. Umm... Judging by the hex shape around the base of the rubber boot I can't help but to think it is from the Inside of your spark plug socket there to help you get the spark plug out of the hole.
  5. Ok because you asked I do actually have enough for an update. The Mighty corolla is still running fine. I did have a few nervous moments where I was convinced the head gasket was still playing up. Turns out it was a combination of the old radiator not able to keep up with hot weather and Melbourne traffic. I was getting temperatures over 110deg and climbing with the radiator fans running and once it cooled down at home the top tank would be empty. Well eventually I remembered I had this problem 10 years ago and the empty radiator was actually a split hose inside the overflow bottle
  6. I don't think the fuses will have minded too much with bit of water. See if they are blown which would suggest problems with the immobiliser. Is the immobiliser still trying to work out is there nothing when you try to use it? You could try bypassing it. That would involve following the wires from the immobiliser to the car wiring loom and joining the wires which have been cut and joined into the immobiliser wiring back together. Usually around the ignition barrel wiring. As for the rest of the electrics, you might have to leave it in the sun with the windows down to let it dry out. I have nev
  7. The clunk might have just been it firing once. Check for fuel and spark. If both are good then we can look at what next.
  8. Ok.... Well first question, have you changed anything? What is different from last time it ran? It might be quickest to go back over what you have done and see if you made a mistake or disturbed something. Who knows how the wires have been joined. Second. What is it missing? Given you are playing with wiring it is probably electrical so let's check spark and fuel. Take the coil lead off the dizzy, position it so it's about 10-20mm away from a metal engine part then crank and check for a spark. Check the fuel pump is working by turning the key to ignition and opening the flap on the air f
  9. No need to remove engine to remove wiring. It can be a bit difficult to get to some sensors and plugs on the engine but definitely possible.
  10. Considering your wiring harness is the 20v one I would put it where it fits as it will not be quite the same. Normally the ecu sits 90deg clockwise with the plugs facing passenger side with the wires tucked up behind the heater box and through the fire wall. Tape them up tidy so they don't get damaged and hide them along the edge of the foot well under the carpet. If it all reaches I wouldn't worry about moving the ecu from where you have it.
  11. Your car was carby so they may not Have put the mounts in. It sits so the wires face the passenger footwell at the very top of your picture. It sits ontop of the gear cables almost wedged under the foot air vents.
  12. Don't stress it. Just identify one wire at a time. Label things, take pictures and buy a workshop book like a Haynes manual. The wiring diagrams are quite good. There are usually wires that are for optional items too so there will be ones not used. Just tidy them up to one side and don't worry about them. If you get stuck post back here and we can try to work it out.
  13. That could make a bit of a difference. You might be better off keeping the 20v fuse box. It still depends on which fuse box is emptier ąnd how the wiring was done. Time to do some investigation and see what the story is.
  14. It looks like the 20v fuse box is handling the main power and the alternator. I think I see the oil and water temperature or fan wires too. The 20v box should have a starter motor relay too which the 16v won't have as all the current for the starter solenoid went through the ignition switch. The ecu slides in from the passenger side and goes under the foot air vent sitting on the tunnel. If you have the brackets there are 2 studs it bolts onto. Try unplugging fuses, relays and plugs from each box and see what stops working. That's the easiest way to see where the wiring is at witho
  15. It's hard to pick from pictures alone but I get a feeling there is not much going on in the 20v box due to 3 main plugs missing. It might just be there as the person doing the install was not confident with removing it. You might need to find where they joined into the wiring from the 16v loom to the 20v one and see what has been done. Without cutting up the wiring loom you can try unplugging relays and fuses from the 20v box to get an idea of what is running off it. Are there any wires from the battery terminals to the 20v fuse box?

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