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marks_2_sparks last won the day on March 6 2018

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  1. I did this a few years back. You need to find the steering angle sensor and fit a normally closed push button in one of the wires. When you start the car and hold the button down for a few seconds the ecu sees it as a fault and disables vsc (you get warning light) until you turn the car off and back on again. Someone else might be able to confirm or tell you what colour the wires are.
  2. Without knowing anymore information I think you need to check how you wired the relay. Sounds like you might have the relay constantly turned on and be powering the air horns with the factory horn wire. Was it the aftermarket fuse that blew or one in the fuse box?
  3. You just have to make a start somewhere and work your way up as you learn more. I started with a Haynes manual and some basic tools learning every step of the way. On a side note I successfully imported this car into Australia and will be getting back into the car scene. It's been a long wait to get it back on the road so I intend to enjoy a few road trips and local events.
  4. The slide resistors do work well. if I was to do it again I would try to track down 2 different value resistors as there is a few spots where the voltages are similar like neutral and 5th gear so you can get overlap if you rest your hand on the gear lever. Other than that it worked a treat. I also looked at Reed switches but they were rather fragile and a pain to set up you also couldn't calibrate them.
  5. Ok , So I have had a very busy few months. First off the car is now running on E85 and I have rewired the engine bay to get rid of the mix and match wiring from the previous owners 16v to 20v conversion. I also took the time to add traction control and boost per gear using gear detection. I used to slide resistors hooked up to the gear cables to give a variable voltage to the ecu telling it which gear it's in. I also used an old Android phone and connected it to the ecu so I can have a custom dash display So this leads to dyno day. I really did want Lith to tune it but he is struggling to get access to a dyno in the wellington region and my usual guys were not comfortable doing a flex fuel tune so I ended up heading out to a local guy just out of town to have a chat and ended up booking it in. So I showed up bright and early we got the low boost tune on petrol nailed pretty quick but the high boost tune didn't want to know us. the car was so grumpy with it trying to knock it's self to pieces even with almost all the timing removed. We ended up tracking it back to most likely bad fuel as a flush out and things were much better. I cant say I have had that before but that seems to be the case this time. we then drained the tank again and fed it the good stuff and actually got it to start and idle first pop on e85. that was a very good guess on the crank enrichment tables. So carrying on and we got most of the low boost e85 tune done and I believe it was near 180kw on 12 psi but we started chasing our tails as it would be sweet one run and garbage the next. A bit of investigation proved my brand new fuel regulator had failed internally and was acting like a 5th injector under vacuum. So a quick visit to the shops and one brand new regulator and I have it running sweet. better than any previous tunes. with the old tunes I would still get the odd warning from the knock light but this is the first time it has completely behaved. It would almost seem I have no power gain over the old tune but it is making the same power on less boost and this is a different dyno so I got the emissions checked and another power run on the same dyno as previous runs and it is still on 240kw at the wheels but with more lower end torque and power The butt dyno is picking up that there is a bit more than before especially on low boost but the main reason for this tune up is for future proofing. the engine is plenty strong enough to make more power, it's the turbo running at the limit which is the limiting factor. Traction control and boost per gear has really helped to get it to the ground and unless I gain more traction I really cant use more power than its got now, I can leave 2 black lines in third gear if I lean on the loud pedal so that's kind of hinting its enough power. . Here's a picture of my new drive shafts as well. the MR2 ones were not the best fit and I killed a few CV's over the years so I decided to fix it properly. I also managed a small road trip of around 750ks before I packed the car into the container. The might corolla has definitely been a few places over the years and here we are ready to drop it off at the shipping terminal as the adventures will continue I might catch up with a few local toyota members around Melbourne, come and say hi if you spot my car it's not like there will be many like this around and I will try and get to a few car meets once it's on the road.
  6. I think I may have had this problem before. Even changed the axles to have it return a few days later. Try cleaning the cv boots with brake cleaner then apply silicone spray to the outside. In my case it was the rubber boots rubbing and flexing against themselves. Give it a try as it's pretty much free to do. You can easily check if it's the wheel bearings by having it up on stands and spinning the wheels. If you hold the base the suspension spring sits on you can usually feel vibrations from the bearing if it's failing. You could also get a stethoscope or length of hose and listen to the gearbox while it's idling in gear on stands.
  7. Well as usual I have been slack updating this, I blame the fact that I got distracted and got another project car for a bit. I got a little carried away as usual so have a look and then I will carry on with the corolla project. I did have an MR2 years ago and felt like getting another so that's what I did. It was completely standard bar an air filter and loud exhaust. Then I got stuck into it and replaced all the suspension and bushes, new exhaust, link g4 plus, Rotrex super charger, Subaru water to air intercooler, TE37 wheels. Removed some rust from the windscreen . removed the motor Got the new shiney bits Put together the jigsaw puzzle And got this really smooth power curve So this is a really fun car to drive, not too much power and so linear you can throw it around without getting into too much trouble . I would say more but I will be selling this soon to further the corolla and I will be shipping the corolla across the ditch within a year, an expensive at the least so there won't be much more done to the MR2. So because the corolla will be coming over with me I have decided to convert it to be e85 ready, this should also help with the emission testing for compliance and gain a bit more power too... can't complain about that. One of the next things will to confirm what is legal in the way of modifications in VIC compared to NZ as there are a few differences and I want to try and minimize any work required once I get there because I will have enough stuff to worry about without car problems when all my tools are still packed away. Anyway there will be another update once I get some progress done.
  8. Jeez at this rate I will only be doing 2 updates a year. Well to be honest I have not been doing too much to the corolla, more enjoying it and trying not to break it. I got the motor back in and running a treat. turns out the head gasket couldn't handle that much boost, no other damage apart from that but I put a new set of rings in and polished the skirts of the pistons as there were a few fine scuff marks. I also coughed up for a better intercooler and tidied up the engine bay a tad while things were apart It's looking pretty tidy now and the air temps have dropped noticeably. after a good drive it would be about 5 deg above ambient. Now it's reading ambient or even slightly below probably because I plumbed the idle control valve into the same port as the temp sensor so there is constant air flow past it. I plan to go back on the dyno to see what difference the intercooler has made but it's not high on the list because until I get bigger tires under the front I cant use the power it has even now.
  9. Well I did have the car on the dyno before Christmas and it performed really well. I believe the intercooler may be a limiting factor now but I have reached my power goal for now so no more power mods other than smoothing the boost map out. green power line is the first tune with 2.5 inch exhaust and factory cams blue power line is Kelford cams 194TA and valve springs also 3 inch exhaust Red power line is above mods with new kinugawa "td05 20g" turbo That was great for all of an hour, I didn't even get to bring it on to full boost properly. I was trimming the boost map for the cooler air temp off the dyno and for some reason the boost cut chose to go on vacation and not work. So I would have hit some massive number, possibly even 50psi. So the car is currently looking like this It looks like I lifted the head pretty well as there was telltale marks right across the old gasket. I also had 0 compression on number 4 but that looks to have been caused by the gasket blowing through to the oil gallery and not re sealing like the rest of the gasket did. So the damage was not too big in the end, just checking the surfaces are flat still for a new gasket, a new set of rings just to be sure and I should be up and running by this weekend. I have also modified my old low boost controller which uses the BOV to now act as an overall safety valve to limit boost to under 22psi. That way even if the boost cut fails I will still be covered. It is also not required for low boost control anymore as the new turbo doesn't suffer boost creep like the old one. Anyway moral of the story.. poop happens, don't own a modified car if you cant afford to spend coin on one. though I could have purchased a pretty tidy non turbo supra for what I have spent this year. but then I wouldn't this awesome one of a kind corolla
  10. Well good things take time apparently but that was a tad excessive. I finally have a new turbo sitting in my hands.... well I did have. I didn't mess around and it's already fitted. Upon first inspection it looked pretty much the same as what I had so I was almost disappointed until I opened it up and had a look. Here's some old V new pics Old compressor cover New compressor cover Old compressor wheel New compressor wheel Old turbine wheel New turbine wheel well enough of the pictures, how does it compare performance wise? I have taken it for a drive on one of my usual routes so I can have some form of comparison and so far it seems promising. the response seems very similar, threshold is maybe a little bit later but it's hard to tell. When it spools it comes on much faster and stronger than the old one. It also has the same amount of boost/power down low as there is a hill I walk it up in 5th at 70km/h and it still went up without slowing down, the old setup only just held the same speed up that hill Got the dyno booked for Wednesday so we will see what will happen then. It's been a year of tinkering and I have ended up spending a chunk of money but fingers crossed it should all come together deliver some good results
  11. I have not been posting here for ages as I have been using another build thread I have elsewhere. so time to copy and paste from where I left off.... Well if you have been following this then you will be wondering what happened to my turbo. Well fear not..... so have I. eventually found that the supplier took payment but never generated a purchase. basically my name never got put to a turbo and I got fed a load of generic information about the batch of turbos of which one of should have been mine. Pity it took 8 months for the truth to come out. Anyway I have moved on and am now waiting for a Kinugawa TD05 20g with billet comp wheel and 9 blade? (not sure) turbine wheel and a ported internal waste gate (still persevering with internal due to lack of space). I have been thinking long and hard, doing as much homework as possible and this new turbo should be nearly as good as the FP68hta at a fraction of the cost. I have fitted my nice front seats and they are so much more comfortable than the 400,000k old ones, I no longer feel like I'm crippled after a road trip which has to be a plus. I have had a few people ask what car I took them from and I get a bit of a blank look when I say they are factory with a visit to the auto upholsterer. I also decided to do something about the suspension. Not that there was anything wrong with the stock stuff, it just wasn't really good enough for spirited driving. so I pulled the old stuff out . and replaced it with something that looks exactly the same but takes these little knobs... and for ease of adjustment in the rear . I went to the Koni workshop in Auckland and talked to Russell who sorted me out with inserts. I believe the rears are for MR2's (dunno if AW or SW) and the fronts are for a Celica (again dunno which model). They have plenty of adjustment and with the addition of some stiffer springs the corolla is now much flatter and more stable in the corners. I have also been messing around with the launch control and flat shift a bit more and now have it building 5psi on the line at 3000rpm and flying through the gears. that has made it more interesting to drive and has certainly kept me entertained while trying to sort out the turbo woes. well fingers crossed that I have a turbo in the next few weeks and hopefully it doesn't end up under the Christmas tree, I think I have waited long enough to finish that part of the project.
  12. I have disabled the vsc on a st215 caldina. It was done by wiring a normally closed switch in line with the steering angle sensor. Push the button for 3 sec which put a fault in the ecu which disabled vsc until the next time you turn the engine off. Couldn't get the traction control to disable but the vsc trick could work on your car.
  13. I'm pretty sure the speedo signal is only from the gear box sender so you can rule out the abs sensors. Capacitors can fail with temperature. I have seen circuits only work when they warm up because of faulty caps. The cluster should come out fairly easy. Start by removing the trim above the steering wheel. Then the shroud inside the dash around the cluster. Then screws out around the cluster, tilt it forward and reach behind to remove the plugs. The whole dash is a bit of a jig saw puzzle so you may have to pull a few other parts and look for hidden screws. If you really get stuck I may be able to put up some pictures from the Toyota service manual
  14. I had this problem on my mx83. The odometer died completely and the speedo was intermittent. I replaced the capacitors on the speedo circuit board and the speedo started working again but I had to replace it in the end as the odometer issue was in one of the chips on it and I couldn't find a spare. Something to consider?
  15. I had the engine rebuilt professionally after finding the block was warped and they did check the head displacement. It must have been all right as they didn't come back to me with any remedial work. The balancing was very noticeable. The new motor is much smoother and quieter so you don't feel the engine revs in the car anymore. The head work is definitely flowing more air as well. We had lean miss under light load and the wastage pressure has dropped to 8 psi from 12.