Tony Prodigy

I'm not sure if there's enough rotational clearance for the shifter spanner Ash. Have you checked ? I am also canvassing a new removal tool as we speak. There's a group here in Australia that manufacture high quality and supposedly unbreakable ones from solid billet unlike the rubbish cast ones from China. I think I might try this as I will need a removal tool going forward and one that doesn't damage my housing either. I don't want to replace the housing trying to get it off. I appreciate your efforts mate.

I've had another epic fail guys.. I purchased another two of those aluminium housing removal tools as I mentioned a while back and they didn't even last 10 seconds. Looks like I have to get the heavy artillery on this sucker ! I've got no choice now but to buy the more expensive Steel Version. Made in China metal is all garbage, straight to the recyclers these crappy items will go. Hopefully they'll serve a more useful purpose in their next life. At least the kincrome one didn't snap the lugs. I bet if it had the 3/8 socket cut into it, it just may have done the job, unlike the biscuit metal China uses. Back to the drawing board ...😒

Hey BigMike. Don't take as Gospel the recommended use from parts suppliers. They can be wrong sometimes, not that the Penrite is a wrong choice here. I'd probably use it too. I Started using the Nulon 5w-30 since I bought my car and it had 40k on the clock. It's now nearly 120K and all is good. Doesn't burn a drop. The dipstick always reads full even before I drop the old oil, so that may say something for the Nulon product. I'm like you and most here, I want to support Australian made as much as I can and looks like we all are doing our bit to keep what's left for our Country.

Looks like my own stupid fault tightening it the way I did. Definitely will hand tightened from now on. That's what the O-ring is for.. (note to self) I don't know what made me think to tighten it with the tool. AARRGHH ! Thanks for the correction people.

Definately stick with 5w-30. The 2GR-FE has pretty tight tolerances so the thinner oil will help it all circulate correctly. I use the Nulon product and have always just used the 6lt. Be frugal and get as much of it out and it will be fine. It fills it to full on the dip stick. No need to waste money on the that extra 1lt for the 100ml you really don't need. Then you've got 900ml sitting around absorbing moisture and by the time the 3rd oil change comes around, it would've gone off by then.. Wait till they go on special and you can get the 6lt for around 48 bucks as opposed to full mug retail of $78 +

I couldn't agree more. I'm sure this is generally the same for all States as it's pretty much common sense. Overtaking slower vehicles in the left or if the left lanes are congested is kind of the same as it means that one needs to overtake THEN get back into the left, middle or far left. The idea is to keep the over taking lane strictly for "overtaking" or for emergency vehicles. Common sense isn't all that common anymore I'm afraid. Our driving standards has gone to crap, especially with the new age of drivers and that "sense of entitlement" garbage which is incessantly ingrained in them. God help us all. I do enough driving to and from work and I love being at home anyway, so I won't be going for a drive to relieve any boredom. I'm very busy at work and sometimes have to work weekends so my free time doesn't exist all that much. Easter is coming up and it will be a welcome relief. I can catch up on some personal projects. I hope everyone stays safe these coming months and especially this coming winter...

Well, they have idiot proofed the freeways with great big signs every few kays "KEEP LEFT UNLESS OVERTAKING" and they still don't get it ? How on earth do they get a driver's license ?? I had to overtake a Moron from the left who was in the fast lane and as I drove by I always get that Moronic brainless Stair as if to say "HUH" ?? Idiots.

Natural Attrition.. hahaha.. I like that.

Tailgaters along with "keep left unless overtaking" are the bain of all existence. I can handle most tailgating morons but the keep left thing gets my goat, especially when they are totally oblivious to the outside world and snail crawling and NOT overtaking. I also avoid the brake test thing too. This tends to infuriate and cause more problems than needed. I just love to watch them stew as they have nowhere to go, then watch them blast past wasting more fuel only to see them stopped at the upcoming Traffic lights with me pulling up grinning at them. Morons..

They shouldn't charge for this as I understand it. You just need to provide your VIN and the code for it will pop up. Shame on them if they take $60 for a couple of key strokes.. Sheesh !

Here's the info you need. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-3rd-gen-2010-2015/913566-rx-350-2010-engine-swap-advice-urgent.html Looks like the 2GR-FE is fine. You may just need to swap over some external components specific to the Lexus but the core engine will be fine.

This is always the million dollar question for vintage cars. Although it wasn't a popular car in it's time here, it certainly is becoming quite rare now. Too many variables to be able to put a definitive mark on it. There's one on gumtree for 30k but I think he's dreaming. Have a chat to Shannons and see if there are any historical sales and see what comes up. As for parts, I'd agree that there wouldn't be much Oz stock around, but there's still the Jap market.

Wow. What a hideous thing. I was going to say an 83 celica too when I saw the boot lines. And the XY GT replica shaker on the bonnet 😁

Having your own tools is very convenient, especially an OBD scanner. Waiting on others can be painful and having one on tap gives you instant gratification and peace of mind.

Roger that. You can also watch the video version I linked a few posts up. Cheers

Come to think of it, I did read your thread. I plainly forgot. But the idea was always in my head to see if I can actually get more old fluid out while I have the big production going. Makes sense to do the full flush as opposed to the drain + refill. The transmission will love you more I think and because we're putting in synthetic over the mineral, this will provide better longevity I suppose. I'm gonna try the full flush and see how it pans out.. (pun intended 😁)

Unfortunately, my Dad was a carpenter and had zero mechanical skills. My brother and I became car heads very early on we practised on our dad's TF Cortina lol.. I learned from trial and error and eventually got to the point where I gained mechanical, spray painting and panel beating skills. Some electrical too. I've always serviced and repaired my own cars and have never had to pay any one. Like you said Ashley, the money you save you invest in tools. How true. I have a decent tool kit now. Can always have more, but this will come in time. I buy bits and pieces as I go along. Hey Ashley, have you ever done the flush on any of your Aurions ? It looks pretty simple and I think this will help purge more bad fluid than you would if you pan drain.

I came across this youtube video that you guys might find interesting

In short, this is what I obtained from the Toyota Aurion Service Manual in the "Transmission" section Vehicle does not move in any forward and reverse positions. 1. Valve body assembly AX-181 2. Torque converter clutch AX-239 If you have the inclination and time, Perhaps do a fluid flush and inspect your transmission fluid. There's plenty of info on that here. Remove the strainer and see if there is any metal material in there and also in the drain pan. There are two magnets in the pan ready to catch any metallic bits. The transmission was probably already on the way out and you may have just helped it into another dimension. TRD's weren't purchased by old ladies if you know what I mean. If you don't have time to do any of the above, I'd seriously have it flat bedded over to a Highly Qualified Toyota Dealer for a thorough analysis. These modern cars are very sophisticated and really needs a qualified Technician who knows what he's looking at. I hope you didn't pay that guy who gave you the C1201 code.. I wish you best of luck mate. let us know how you go.

Forum diagnosis' can be tricky deyrick, especially when or if you have an electronic or mechanical issue or both. If you have another car you can use, get yourself a service manual and familiarise yourself with it and check the basics first. It is strange how you have no check engine light or any other warning lights, which leads me to think that it could be a mechanical issue the computer can't see. Who scanned it for you ? What scanner did they use ? Did they try to clear the code/s ? Too many variables here I'm afraid. If you've read the links provived by Ashley and this hasn't worked, then maybe it's time for a qualifed mechanic to inspect it. Quick one. When you say it feels like It's in Neutral when engaging Drive, does it make any kind of whining sound from the drive train ? Any unusual noise ? You need to be more specific.

Time for a thorough check over.

Does your car have "Check VSC System" on your instrument cluster ? What about check engine light ? Are there any warning lights indicating at all ? C1201 code can be many things and not just one specific item. This is the problem with decoding. You will end up shot gunning the parts process an be nowhere close to fixing the issue. For eg. http://c1201.enginetroublecode.com/toyota-aurion This link talks about several things not even remotely related to your car and yet it discusses C1201. My experience with electronic glitches is always check the wiring integrity. Check ALL the wiring plugs are mated correctly around the engine and I mean everything. get under the car too and take a look under there also. Check the wiring to the transmission. ( don't ask me where it all is, just take a look). Sometimes wiring can come apart or even moisture ingress and corrosion sets in. Maybe your reverse donuts ( I'm just picturing this in my mind too,... so funny) has managed to shake part of the wiring loose from your hooliganism. If it's something controlling the transmission then it will make sense it feeling like it's in neutral. It may not be communicating. Worse case. Take it to Toyota and have them scan it with their equipment.

I was wondering what temprature the Factory actually used when determining the fluid level. The range being between 40 & 45 degrees C. I wonder if the 5 degree difference actually does anything for accuracy. I'm thinking not, but I'm just curious if the factory had a magic number. Has anyone actually performed a fluid level check BEFORE draining, say, the day before ? My understanding is that the draining of the fluid must be done at around 20 degrees ambient so one must not do this if they car has been driven. I'm at work right now and today was supposed to be the day I do this... Hopefully next weekend.