campbeam

Yes, more accurate measurement. Anyway, best to have tyres with good grip and replace them as soon as practicable for safety reasons. Certainly not smart to ignore warning signs when the tyres are not performing to expectations in a known situation. My personal test is a particular intersection turning right from a stop at the traffic lights when the road is wet; especially if the front tyres lose grip and start sliding in mid-turn then it is replacement time. Spending $500 for a new set of 4 tyres at the right time is less economic/personal pain than a smashed up vehicle. http://www.repcoservice.com/hints-and-tips/safe-tyre-tread

There was a recent thread in the Aurion about Tyres so you should be able to use the Search to locate it. RE003 got a favourable mention. I am more interested in a quality Touring style tyre with longer tyre life, good grip especially in the wet and low road noise. I have found is that my current set of Continental tyres with a Treadwear rating of 360 have much better grip in the wet than a budget Goodride brand with a Treadwear rating of 440. Lesson learnt is to stick with known quality brands. I am thinking that for a tyre to have a wear life guarantee of 50,000km then there has to be a combination of deeper original tread depth and a higher Treadwear rating than the RE003. Minimum legal tread depth is 2 mm but tyre shops recommend replacing at 3 mm. Best to keep a watch on both the tread depth and the usual End of Financial Year or pre-Xmas sales.

There have been a few threads in recent months about changing the standard halogen headlight bulbs to LEDs or HIDs. Best to check with your local Govt Transport Office as to whether this is road legal to do so. In most cases, the answer will be No, thank you. Even retrofitting a LED headlight from a recent year model to an earlier year model may not be permitted. Attached URL contains halogen bulbs and HID conversion kits. https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/vehicles/cars/australia/toyota-aus/aurion/2006-2012/car-headlight-bulbs

As an update, sensors and catalytic convertors do not appear to need to be replaced. As suggested from an internet search, I used brake fluid around the air/fuel sensor, waited 5 minutes and it came undone quite easily. More troublesome undoing the electrical connection, I used the carby/throttle body cleaner direct into the throttle body. Afterwards, I noticed a pending code of P0171 so this got me more focussed upon the fuel trim readings and checking for vacuum leaks. Eventually identified the PCV hose connection as the cause and subsequent fuel trim readings look good at idle. Readings for the bank 2 air/fuel sensor are lower/better so now thinking about whether to also clean the bank 1 air/fuel sensor.

I have very recently cleared the code and waiting for it to reappear to review the freeze frame data especially the fuel trim readings. In the meantime, I am going to use carby/throttle body cleaner to try and decarbon/clean the catalytic convertor; inspect/clean the air/fuel sensor for bank 2 [because it is easy to access]; swap over the O2 sensors between bank 1 and bank 2 if that is possible; and possibly also try to reset the ECM by disconnecting the battery. I am assuming that if the error code then appears for bank 2 then it is the O2 sensor and if it still remains for bank 1 then it is most likely the catalytic convertor. Depending upon the fuel trim readings, especially if there is a marked difference between bank 2 and bank 1, then I will have to consider cleaning the air/fuel sensor for bank 1 which is presumably hidden away underneath the air intake body.

Suggest that you do a Google search with the term "lube reference guide" then choose the various oil manufacturers. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ Most are recommending 10W-40 or 15W-40 for your vehicle. Nulon guide mentions 20W-50. I do a lot of short distance driving so I change my oil every 5,000 KM. If I wanted a longer oil change interval e.g. 7-10,000 KM then I would be using a full synthetic oil. However, I have found that most oil specials are for mineral oil and semi-synthetic oil so that is what I buy.Engine Oil URLs and GR4 GR5 Performance Comparison.doc

For quite some time I have been resetting the Check Engine Light on my 2008 Aurion Prodigy. Finally, I purchased an OBD2 scanner and identified the P0420 error code for Bank 1 catalytic convertor efficiency. This is the only error code detected. I am still in the diagnosis/ trial and error process and avoiding replacing unnecessary parts. Google searches have indicated that replacing the O2 sensor is unlikely to fix this error code. Previously, the engine was smoking on startup and the vehicle was purchased with this known issue. Potentially, the catalytic convertor could be oil contaminated or have carbon build up. I have cleaned both post cat O2 sensors which had a white residue that easily wiped off. Latest bit of research indicates to also look at the long term and short term fuel trim readings. I am assuming that this could point the finger at the pre-cat Air/Fuel sensor/s needing to be cleaned or replaced. I have yet to check for any vacuum or exhaust leaks My main question is if anyone has had this P0420 or P0430 error code and what ended up being the solution. I am also a novice to using an OBD2 scanner so any advice on how to use it to solve this error code will be appreciated. Error Code P0420.doc

Courtesy of a post in another thread, I located this URL for LED foglights for Toyota Camry/Yaris/RAV 4/Corolla. Best to check with your Transport Dept whether they can be legally fitted. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-55W-9-LED-Round-Front-Right-Left-Fog-Light-Lamp-DRL-Daytime-Driving-Running-Lights/32581107813.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.20.UrqxBO&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_10136_10137_10060_10138_10131_10155_10062_10132_10156_10133_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10103_10102_10096_10148_10147_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10110_10175_10111_10112_10113_10114_10181_10078_10079_10073_10070_10123_10120_10124-10119,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=c8424815-a2a7-4c23-9926-def5de444284&algo_expid=ffa0fc95-e812-4782-bc4c-7881d83ee884-2&algo_pvid=ffa0fc95-e812-4782-bc4c-7881d83ee884

After looking at the video, engine exchange or changing vehicles look very attractive options. Lexus IS350 would be on my shopping list just for easier maintenance access.

There is a similar thread in the Aurion Forum titled LED Headlights. Check with your Transport Dept but I expect you may find that the conversion will be illegal. A better option may be to upgrade the halogen bulbs. Next option would be a LED light bar.

Hopefully you will hear from RAV4 owners. I did a Google search and located this URL. Admittedly it relates to a different Toyota model but at least it is something to consider whether it may be applicable. http://www.instructables.com/id/Toyota-Tacoma-manual-transmission-pop-out-of-gear/

One of my many dislikes about other drivers, especially those that sit in my left rear blind spot. Also did not think it was smart for that police bike to sit in my driver side rear blind spot oh so many years ago. Only happy when there are no cars within 100 metres then I can just look out for errant wildlife.. Recent experiences have reinforced the stereotype of female Asian drivers especially those driving SUVs. Also ongoing joke with my girlfriend to assess our parking results as either Australian park, Asian park or an African park.

You may have already done a Google search and identified the attached Timing Chain Instructions. After reading these instructions, you will have to determine whether it is feasible to access the No.2 chain tensioner and lock it in position with a 1mm allen key etc.Otherwise, it looks like a big dismantle job to remove the No.1 timing chain. It was mentioned in another thread about diagnosing the underlying cause for the problem. Suggest that you read all of the attachments first, diagnose the cause then consider your repair options. Timing Chain Sprockets 3 Removal Installation.docx

No direct experience but from my research I have assumed that it is a disassembly. Apparently, the timing chains have a life of 200,000+ kms. Toyota and Lexus 3 Engine Timing Chain Fitment Marks.doc

Attached is some of my ready reference material. 2GR FE Water Pump Removal Information.doc 2GR-FE Valve Timing Tips.pdf

Suggest that you do a search on eBay for OBD2 scanner. I think that I bought this one. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OBD2-EOBD-CAR-FAULT-CODE-READER-SCANNER-DIAGNOSTIC-AUTO-ENGINE-SCAN-TOOL-/322380609595?hash=item4b0f61b83b:g:T0sAAOSwA3dYbgDp The connector for the Aurion is under the dash on the right hand side of the steering wheel.

Yes, you will have to wait for the warning lights to come back on before plugging in a scanner to read the stored fault codes.

It is a process of elimination. I would test the foglights to confirm that the bulbs actually work, then go visit a friend who knows how to use a multimeter.

Probably more stereotyping. Not enough Volvo owners wearing hats these days. Gee that sounds like me on the highway. Cruising along enjoying a relaxing safe drive [at a safe speed for the road conditions and not "qualifying" for a speeding ticket]. Sun visor is also deployed for the morning and afternoon Sun. Having a bit of fun with full throttle on the overtaking lanes to go past that slower traffic then back to cruising speed. Also "interesting" catching up to those speeding drivers who have recently overtaken me now waiting behind slower traffic.

There is also a fog light relay that needs to be fitted into the standard wiring harness that connects up the stalk on the steering column. I cannot remember exactly where in the cabin under the dash/ or glovebox area [?] it is located. Last year I picked up some foglights from a wreck then did a Google search for fitting the fog lights to discover that I also needed to fit that stalk with the switch and the relay. I did not proceed any further because that stalk had already been removed from that vehicle and I bought a 2008 Aurion Prodigy with foglights and a towbar

Yes, it also worked for me. I removed the housing then used the filter strap to hold it on the ground with my foot while using the 3/8 rachet and a breaker bar for extra leverage to undo the bolt. In hindsight, this is only worth doing if there is an oil leak and the small o-ring has to be replaced.

Same for me; unable to undo the nut on the oil cartridge housing and replace the small o-ring. Tried hard one time and ended up with gouge marks on the housing so gave up before having a broken housing. Probably could try using a breaker bar and giving it a hard tap which will most likely just loosen the housing.

Sounds similar to my experience with the electric fuel pump on my Honda Accord from many years ago, Your new mechanic may be able to tell whether the fuel filter has been recently replaced. I reckon that Mr Rogue is also full of "waste material" knowing that it is unlikely that you are going to crawl under the car to confirm his "nice guy" story. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3hEqkqc7sQ

2GR-FE engine is well known for engine sludge so needs to properly serviced with regular oil changes and quality oil. Remember to check/clean/replace the PCV valve. Because I have purchased my Aurions used with the known problem of white smoke on start up [build up of sludge in the valve gear and covers resulting in oil being sucked up via the PCV valve into the intake] I also remove and clean the camshaft sensors and VVTi oil control valves on the valve covers. Positive Crankcase Understanding.doc Don't forget about servicing your "sealed for life" automatic transmission. After 160,000 km, I have replaced the transmission filter and ATF. U660E Info 2010_8_36.pdf U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc

I have purchased an OBD2 scanner on eBay but have yet to use it. There should be a connection underneath the dash which I will have to locate. SuperCheap offer service to read the codes costs about $17.95 . Code scan by Toyota Dealer should produce most accurate results. I have used 15W-40 mineral oil in my 2006 Aurion for about 12 months [15,000 kms] but that engine had lots of engine sludge and I was doing very frequent oil and filter changes. I don't know about increased oil pressure in the engine but I did have to replace the rear VVTi oil line last October when the rubber hose section developed a pin hole size leak. Most of my driving is short distance and low revs so I think that it was just deterioration with age. Toyota GR series engines.docx