campbeam

It is not going to be a cheap repair. Others have replaced the water pump with the engine still in the car. As per attachment, engine mount is loosened and the engine jacked up to give the clearance to remove the water pump. 2GR FE Water Pump Removal Information.doc The other dreaded issue is the rear VVTi oil line. If it has the original line with the rubber hose mid=section, get your mechanic to replace it with the full metal line. That is a $500-$600 repair job when the engine is still in the car.

I am sure you will find that the noise reduction shim is either fitted or built in to the back of the brake pad. Previously fitted Bendix Ultimate front brake pads to my 1998 Camry and had the same question at the time. I left the shims out but kept them just in case. 2 years later, I just noticed the shims are still in the box. Just purchased rear brake pads and the eBay listing stated that the noise reduction shims are factory fitted.

As per this URL, 6 months or 10,000 kms http://www.hayestoyota.com.au/service/m/toyota-service-intervals/ Further servicing details available at this Toyota URL https://www.toyota.com.au/owners/service/service-intervals

I am sure that you will be able to access it from within the boot. Follow the wiring and look for the retaining nut/s.

Exactly what I am expecting, more getting it back in and lined up. Should be able to lever it out OK. Thank you for that thought. I always like to plan ahead. Now got just the tool in mind, now just have to find it before next Saturday. Hopefully, a bit of silicone spray will make the refitting easier.

I am getting my 1998 Camry CSX sedan ready to be registered for my teenage sons. Owned since new and has been sitting in the shed for about 2 years and has about 205,000 kms on the odometer. I did not expect any issues but the roadworthy inspection has identified that the rear bushings on both front lower control arms are torn and the rear sway bar bushings are worn. Quite surprised but did not know that control arms have an estimated life of 90,000 -100,00 miles.. Rear swaybar bushings were very worn so much so that the swaybar could be easily moved in a sideways motion. Next checked the lower control arm as per a YouTube video method of car wheels fully turned to the right or left then have an assistant jiggle the steering wheel. Nothing obviously wrong. When the vehicle was jacked up and the wheel removed, then I could see the slight tear in the control arm bushing. I had a bit of a struggle loosening the bolts especially the one for the rear bushing. Certainly cursing that [Chris Fix] YouTube video where he made it look all so easy using a breaker bar. Attached video mentions the torque settings for the different bolts. Explains why I am feeling a bit sore and also appreciating having quality tools. New control arms from eBay seller should arrive in the next few days. Certainly hoping removal and installation of the control arms goes as smoothly as the video. Now going to have a closer inspection of the control arms and sway bar bushings on my other vehicles.

Best if you can provide a sound recording and more details e.g. engine at idle; engine at 2000 rpm.

I am assuming that it is a sealed transmission [i.e. no dipstick] so similar to the Aurion, there is a specific/specialised procedure for checking the automatic transmission fluid level. If so, 40mm below the filler plug [when cold] may be quite OK. As you have a new vehicle under warranty, best to leave it alone and/or get the dealer to check the fluid level even if t you have to pay for it. Also keep in mind that the underlying issue may be the valve body or some other component. Best to get advice from an automatic transmission specialist. Flaring is most likely increasing the wear on the friction plates and this could lead to early transmission failure/rebuild.. http://www.aa1car.com/library/transmission_slipping.htm

Just remember that this is sheer speculation on my part. My initial thought/suspect was low transmission fluid level but as you have stated engine and transmission fluid levels are fine. I would be inclined to also search for any Toyota Service Bulletins relating to your vehicle especially the transmission and/or torque convertor. Something else to consider is when the transmission was last serviced to either flush or replace the transmission fluid and whether the transmission filter is due/overdue to be replaced.

It could possibly be somewhat similar to the dreaded VVTi rattle [applicable to 2GR-FE engine} that is oil pressure related on startup. I would be considering further checks of the oil pressure within the transmission and torque convertor.

I cannot recall whether I had a battery indicator come on but I expect it must have. The alternator on a previous partner's Corona stopped working and the car was running on the battery alone [did not know that at the time]. Headlights were quite dim when I finally got home. Removed the alternator and discovered that the brushes were quite worn but had got stuck. Easy fix so brushes able to make contact again.

This sounds like a worthwhile feature. Most likely driven by impatient tailgating idiots. Good idea not to react and become upset. I think that karma will get them eventually. I have more noticed some Brisbane drivers being a bit slow to enter into the turning lane; probably not making the extra steering effort.

Century Battery finder to determine the recommended batteries for your vehicle then look at the specifications for physical dimensions, Ah and CCA rating. Camry and Aurion had the same recommended batteries. Later when I looked at the Kluger [has same 2GR-FE engine as the Aurion] recommended batteries were different; higher CCA rating. Important to consider the physical dimensions so the battery will fit in the existing battery tray and the size/layout of the battery terminals to fit the existing battery cables. It was a personal choice to go for a battery with a higher Ah and CCA rating. As I previously said, this was "overkill". I also found this article about different battery types useful. $174.30 [30% discount off $249] Other battery would have been $153.30 [30% discount off $219]. I am expecting this new battery to last at least 3 years, maybe 5 years to make the extra outlay worthwhile. battery-talk-what-are-silvercalcium-batteries.pdf

You could look at instrument clusters from the Aurion GSV40 series [up to 2012] at wreckers for a different appearance. They should easily fit but don't know for certain. http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/2010-toyota-aurion-at-x-auto-my10/SPOT-ITM-280114

Good to know a personal recommendation before the unexpected and unwanted happens.

Exactly what I have noticed. As for the ride, it feels a bit firmer not harsh. Original struts now done 108,000 km and suspension is soft.

I have just put my tyre pressure up to 40 psi [temporarily] and have noticed an improvement in the handling. Normally I use 38 psi but have not checked my tyre pressure for a while so it was down to about 34 psi. Admittedly my tyres are fairly new and I mainly do short urban driving. If you do a Forum search, you will locate the thread and posts of what tyre pressure other members are using.

Contact Bodykits Kingdom at Coopers Plains. eBay listing also reads well enough to attract customers. Have not heard of VMAX brand and did a Google search but no worthwhile results. Warranty is limited to normal street use etc. I am sure that I have used that eBay seller before but it is a gamble. Equivalent slotted DBA rotors cost approx. $600 on eBay. May be worth a chance after contacting the seller to enquire about number of returns or warranty claims. Exactly why I upgraded the suspension and fitted a front strut bar on my 1998 Camry.

For a performance upgrade, I moved to the Aurion. Absolutely brilliant [responsive and fast] and safer for overtaking on the open highway compared to my 1998 Camry. I had previously thought about turbocharging but have a bias for naturally aspirated engines so was on the lookout for a V6 Camry when my 2006 Aurion came available. Obvious drawback is the increased registration costs but worth it to me. I have these slotted rotors on my eBay Watchlist [for future consideration] http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/401307561586?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132157660155?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and I have recently bought these items but yet to fit them http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272635617741?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/182360456663?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It might be a good idea to also have the transmission oil level checked. Read a few internet posts where the transmission oil level was incorrect/underfilled from the factory. As per the attachment [even though it is for an Aurion], it could be the valve body needs to be revised/replaced so keep in contact with your dealer. Toyota XV40 Aurion Problems and Recalls.htm

I have previously used Sikaflex to reinforce the engine and transmission mounts on a few of my vehicles with out any issue. Most of the time, I remove the mount, fill the spaces with Sikaflex and bake it overnight in the oven at low heat about 80C to aid the curing process instead of waiting 24-48 hours. On my Nissan Pulsar, I used solid Prothane mount inserts but the vibration through the chassis was too much so I ended up drilling holes in the front side engine mount. I am sure that I ended up using Sikaflex on the rear engine mount instead of the Prothane insert because of the vibration issue.

Exactly. Personally, I would be leaving the rear valve cover alone until I need to replace the spark plugs and/or the air fuel sensor for bank 1. Fortunately the PCV valve is located on the front valve cover and my time estimate was just for the front valve cover.

Just as well I love a challenge and have learnt [some] patience. Still quite frustrating. Got a few ideas about the underlying cause so concentrating upon desludging the engine so it does not smoke on startup when reconnecting the vacum line to the PCV valve. Giving it a few more weeks to confirm the code has now cleared or i am just being further teased before resorting to using sensor spacers.

I did a Google search and came up with the following URLs for your consideration. http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/31576-hard-to-select-gears-in-toyota-hilux/ https://www.exploroz.com/forum/62273/hilux-gearbox-problems http://forum.australia4wd.com/index.php?/topic/25847-ln106-hilux-gearbox-fluids/

I have not taken the valve cover off myself but it should not be too bad a job. I would allow a few hours even though others would probably get it done in 30 minutes. For reference purposes, I have this valve cover gasket in my eBay Watch List http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161220972470?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The same for these oil filter cartridges which I previously purchased from this eBay seller http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/182355687844?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I was thinking/guessing that the clicking noise could be PCV valve but would not bet my lunch money on it.