campbeam

Just guessing but appears that DBA2705 intended for US market. I don't need rotors for a while but I have added the DBA2705 to my eBay watch list.

Hopefully, these URLs will be of some assistance. https://www.dba.com.au/dba-part-finder/?view=part&id=DBA2709E http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-DBA-En-Shield-Standard-Rotor-DBA2709E-/252181811902?hash=item3ab73512be:g:~JEAAOSwb69Zx1aC

Last night, parked my 2006 ATX Aurion in position ready for the ATF change first thing this morning. Engine was not started, just jacked up the front passenger side to remove the wheel and access the fill plug bolt. Surprisingly, the drain bolt was hard to undo even with my long 6mm allen key. Could be because the engine and transmission was cold. I was also a bit more precise in measuring the amount of fluid being drained [using a 2 litre plastic measuring jug]. Undoing the pan drain bolt resulted in approx. 1300ml of ATF. Removing the internal plastic straw drained a further 650ml of ATF. Ended up putting exactly 2 litres of ATF back into the transmission. I also put some anti-seize on the drain bolt, Fill bolt also got some too more by mistake than intent. Intention is to redo this oil pan ATF change again in a week or so.

Recommend that you get a decent set of verniers first. You can also check with your fingernails if there is much of a lip on the outside of the rotor. I bought replacement front rotors and brake pads for girlfriend's Yaris only to find when I measured the existing rotors that they were hardly worn. Mislead myself by just looking at the amount of heavy rust in the cooling vanes section and thinking that they were originals [ from 2007] and needed replacement.

I have not used Penrite ATF because they specify a full flush/change of the existing Toyota WS fluid. I will be using Chief brand full synthetic ATF for quite some time because I bought lots on special at SuperCheap Auto. Bargain price so I am changing the ATF in the transmission pan every 12 months or so.

Like yourself, I have also flushed my 1998 Camry transmission via the oil lines. I have delayed doing this on my Aurion transmission [U660E] due to no dipstick. Now that I have got the oil level check procedure worked out and also the oil hoses, I am more confident about proceeding with a flush at a later time. Attached document has a table of temperature and expected ATF life. ATF Life and Temperature Relationship.docx I think you will find that the A960E automatic transmission fitted to the Toyota 86 also is "sealed" without a dipstick. U660E Oil Cool Hose Location.doc A960E Automatic Transmission.pdf

What exactly are you planning to do? Whether you are removing the transmission pan and replacing the filter or just changing the ATF held in the transmission pan, you need to understand what is involved, plan and prepare. One basic approach is to accurately measure the volume of ATF drained from the transmission and replace with a similar amount. This assumes that the transmission has the correct fill level. Far better to correctly perform the oil level check procedure.

I would expect that a new radiator will have 12 months warranty. Local guy should be prepared and able to get a replacement from the supplier.

Suggest you have a look at the documents I attached on 9th January [Page 1 of this thread]. You need to loosen an engine mount etc to then raise the engine to give you room to access that 10mm bolt. I ended up using a variety of small/compact 10mm ring and open end spanners to loosen and then undo this bolt. Quite frustrating because you can only rotate the head of the bolt a small amount at a time. If that blessed sub-frame member had been better designed, then it would be all so easy to undo and remove the transmission oil pan in minutes not hours.

You need to be able to accurately measure the amount of fluid that is being drained/replaced. The new filter is going to absorb some ATF. As a workaround, you could add an extra 50-100mls to compensate for any measurement discrepancies. Recommend changing the oil pan fluid and doing the proper oil level check procedure after a week or so. As for the new pan gasket, I am sure that I coated it in ATF Hope you have done your research for removing the oil pan. There is one bolt that is covered by the sub-frame and it is a real challenge to access and undo.

I replaced approx. 2.5 litres of ATF when I removed the transmission pan and replaced the filter. When just draining and changing the ATF in the pan only, I replace approx. 1.0 to 1.8 litres of ATF depending upon whether the plastic oil level straw is also removed. I don't have the temperature scan tool so I do the oil level check procedure initially with a cold engine. Start engine and change through each of the gears at 10-15 second intervals. With engine still running and transmission in PARK, then check oil level [as per procedure]. Final step is to add another 200ml of ATF. Fully comprehend and do the oil level check procedure totally correctly and you will not have any issues. Personally, I had some not so smooth gear changes due to the ATF oil level being low but sorted it out after re-reading the procedures. Last ATF change was in August 2016 and the gear changes have been very smooth. Been procrastinating for the last few weekends so will most likely do an ATF change this weekend and again next weekend.

You can just push it back into place. If the plastic clips have worn/lost their grip then most likely it will pop out again.

Got the same issue but on a different part of the front bumper. I was thinking about using Sikaflex but have yet to do it.

Certainly would not worry about rust on the brake rotors. Presumably you are referring to the vent section. If there is rust on the braking surface of the rotor, it will soon disappear with a bit of driving. Be more concerned about the thickness of the rotors and the brake pads. Would not be too worried about the exhaust particularly if it is only light surface rust. You could try applying rust convertor to the rust on the exhaust if you really wanted to.

My 2006 Aurion AT-X with about 166,000kms on the odometer was an opportunity eBay purchase. Afterwards, I did the research about the engine and transmission. I dropped the transmission pan and replaced the transmission filter and fluid [as high priority preventative maintenance task]. As forewarned, there was a fair amount of "sludge" coating the bottom of the transmission pan. This is why I would be inclined to check the speed sensors and clean off any accumulated coating as a starting point.

https://www.justanswer.com/toyota/5jjgh-2007-toyota-camry-le-speed-sensor-cyl-test.html

This URL may be of assistance. Diagram in the later post has a diagram showing the locations of the speed sensors on the transmission. I would be inclined to remove the sensors and clean contacts etc. How many kms on the odometer and has the transmission been serviced with a fluid change?

OEM specification new 28mm thickness; 25mm minimum thickness. I have also got light scoring on my front rotors. More noticed how worn down the Bendix Ultimate brake pads are after 2 years of light braking use. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Pair-DBA-Brake-Rotor-DBA2709-Fit-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-06-ON-/142102444918?fits=Make%3AToyota|Model%3AAurion&epid=866372791&hash=item2115f73b76:g:7QIAAOSw3yxZmhd3

Still go see a Toyota dealer particularly if the dash is really sticky now.

Best to confirm with your State Transport Dept what headlight bulbs are legal. In most cases, you will also find that upgrading headlights to HID or LED is not permitted for your specific vehicle. I use the website www.powerbulbs.com for bulb information. If you do a bit more internet searching, you will find that high performance headlight bulbs have a shorter operating life. Personally, I am more into efficiencies and performance; not looks. Rather than the show-off factor, I am more into the Q-ship approach. I have the following on my eBay watchlist: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H11-Genuine-Osram-NightBreaker-Unlimited-64211NBU-Globes-Bulbs-Lights-Twin-Pack-/261656983226?epid=1024976596&hash=item3cebf8b6ba:g:n70AAOSwabhUYHxc There is no specific mention but I think they are in the 4100-4300K range. If you look on the ToyotaNation Forum [USA based] you should find a number of posts where members have done headlight bulb upgrades with before and after photos.

Good starting point is your owners manual where Toyota will have a list of oil viscosity for various temperature ranges. My next step is to do Google searches with the search term lube guide and various oil brands then review the recommendations for your vehicle. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/ValvolineAusMobile/ http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ Personally, I buy whatever oil is on special with the latest oil classification i.e. SN or GF-5. I also do regular oil changes every 5,000kms but a lot of my driving is short distance <20 kms. As a general guide, synthetic oil or a semi-synthetic oil will be more suitable for longer oil chage intervals.

I am expecting that the tail lights are just about a sealed unit but the bugs must have got in by some means e.g. drainage vent/hole. I would try removing a tail light and then using a vacuum cleaner to try and suck the bugs out.

I place the filter cartridge in a can the half-fill with petrol. Agitiate/swirl the cartridge around in the can, then empty. Repeat and let air-dry. I usually check the cartridge before and after for the amount of sludge caught in the filter material. I also check the petrol for the undissolved sludge which looks like coffee grounds

Do a search on eBay with the search terms "twin exhaust tip" and "dual exhaust tip". Best to first measure up the exhaust pipe diameter and the preferred overall length for the exhaust tip.

Unfortunate that your Aurion got rear ended and written off. Reckon that Kia would have been a mess. I have always considered that in an accident the vehicle has done its job if you can open the door and walk away physically unhurt. I think that I would also miss the V6 a lot especially when overtaking on the highway. That is my fun time; not trying to keep up with those drivers who must be wringing the neck out of their smaller 4 cylinder engines.