campbeam

Mainly for the benefit of other members, I previously read an internet post by a USA mechanic who highly recommended using brake fluid for hard to remove oxygen sensors. Worked a treat for me. Also discovered that my 24mm ring spanner could fit over the connector and that it was worthwhile buying a set of 3 O2 sensor removal sockets. Located this URL https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12380/how-to-unscrew-loosen-stuck-o2-sensor

I was referring to the air/fuel sensors which are located on the exhaust system before the catalytic convertor. Following URLs contain some useful information. http://densoautoparts.com/sites/default/files/tech-tips/DENSO O2 Sensor troubleshooting tips.pdf http://www.counterman.com/technical-forum-when-should-an-oxygen-sensor-be-replaced/ http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92264/Easy-air-fuel-and-oxygen-sensor-diagnosis?Page=1

Probably best to contact an auto electrician. Very few members would have done a LED headlight conversion because they are not road legal. There are a few threads in the Camry and Aurion Forums where members have asked about LED headlights and been advised not to proceed. Better option [in my opinion] is to fit high performance halogen bulbs. An extra would be a LED lightbar wired into the high beam. Personally, I have the Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited series under consideration for when i need to replace my headlight bulbs. https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/brand/osram/fitting/h4-472

Easy to say to other people to spend money but it has to be worthwhile/relevant and solve the problem. Interested to know the outcome.

Immediate suspects are the air/fuel sensors, fuel filter and air filter. Also check the engine for any vacum leaks e.g. cracked/broken ends of the various vacum hoses.

The last post in this URL helps to explain why there can be a ride height difference; initially at least. The other factor is blown shocks resulting in the vehicle sagging. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1165772

Personally, i would be inclined not to be using any of these OBD II devices on a new vehicle especially a just released model. Leave it as dealer delivered then there are no issues with warranty claims.

The old struts well and truly had their day. Different car but I noticed the same after replacing the struts. Give it a few days of driving for the new struts to "settle in". Interested to know further details of the KYB struts and where you sourced them.

Read that URL more thoroughly right to the end. Good idea to check your fuses. At least it is something you should be able to easily check before going to an auto electrician.

Based upon what you have reported and the following URL, I would be inclined to have an auto electrician check the wiring, connections and any associated relays etc. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p2238-obd-ii-trouble-code-o2-sensor-positive-current-control-circuit-low-bank-1-sensor-1-by-jay-safford

What is the OBD error code/s?

Essentially I am prepared to take risks and I grew up with a garage full of tools and plenty of encouragement to be DIY. The 2006 Auriion [165,000 kms] was in good overall condition and the price was right. Also did not care about the engine smoking on startup which I thought was worn valve stem seals so my intention was to drive it til it drops instead of any engine repairs. Big wake up call was when the engine used more than a litre of oil in one day of "spirited"open highway driving. Certainly leaving a smoke screen behind when accelerating hard. Sheer luck that the counter staff emeber at SuperCheap used to work for Toyota and mentioned that a valve needed to be replaced for the engine smoking issue. I did an internet search and was fortunate to find a post that identified the cause as accumulated oil sludge and explained the blocked oil channels in the valve cover preventing the oil from draining quickly enough so it was being sucked up via the PCV valve into the intake. As for the Dec.2008 Aurion, it was a "family"car done only 105,000kms and was in "sad"condition Engine smoking from oil sludge was because of irregular servicing plus using a local mechanic for convenience rather than a Toyota dealership. Price was ok but in hindsight could have been better.. I could monitor results of the engine desludging based upon how much smoke and time upon startup. Sometimes there was the occassional backward step. Eventually, I discovered that the best way to "see"progress/results was to check/clean the oil cartridge each weekend or fortnight looking for the amount of "coffee grounds"being undissolved sludge in the cartridge housing and those caught in the filter cartridge itself.

You are in the right forum for Australian Toyota owners. Before joining this forum, I spent a fair amount of time looking at the Toyota Nation forum which is aimed at North America Toyota owners. http://www.toyotanation.com/ I think that you will find us a very respectful lot and a great forum otherwise I would not be here.

I am expecting that the oil pickup screen will have been blocked by dislodged oil sludge to have caused the low oil pressure light. This is the reason why I have been wary about using commercial engine flush products. I have been told by an ex-Toyota dealership employee that the 2GR-FE engine should last for 400,000 kms before requiring any serious maintenance. This is very much dependent upon regular servicing with quality oils Engine Oil URLs and GR4 GR5 Performance Comparison.doc. I bought my 2006 Aurion with the known problem of white smoke on startup. Eventually learned that this was caused by accumulated oil sludge in the oil channels of the valve cover which results in the PCV valve sucking oil into the intake. Rather than remove the front valve cover, I chose to desludge the engine using numerous oil and filter cartridge changes. I am DIY so I did about 12 oil and filter changes over 15mths and 20,000 kms to fully desludge the engine. I then bought a December 2008 Aurion with the same oil sludge issue and a neglected servicing history. To date, I have done 6 oil and filter cartridge changes over 13 months and only 3,000 kms. Getting there with the oil sludge totally gone. To assist the desludging process in both vehicles, I have added 250ml of either diesel or ATF to the engine oil so not unusual for the oil to be black and contaminated with dissolved sludge within a week.

This quick action may have saved your engine which appears to have been oil starved. I got a low oil pressure light because the rear VVTi oil line sprung a leak in the rubber mid-section. If your oil pickup is full of sludge, then after the engine has been flushed by your mechanic make sure that servicing is regular with quality engine oil. Personally, I do an oil and filter cartridge change every 5,000 kms because I mainly do short distance city driving.

Thank you for the feedback. It confirms that I will have to allow at least a day; usually 2-3 times longer [for me] than an experienced mechanic.

Just remembered. Check the spark plug gap. This may also be handy before parting with $$$ https://www.google.com.au/search?q=how+to+test+a+coil+pack&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&safe=active&gws_rd=cr&ei=GaZUWciyBoaZ8QW6zI-YBA

Based upon a past experience, I would be cleaning and re-gapping or replacing the spark plugs. If the misfiring continues then the next item for consideration would be the ignition leads/coils.

Recent post to this thread about Michelin Pilot tyres fitted to an Aurion.

I would guess that the previous owner has mainly used that breaker bar with a socket extension bar and a socket to loosen/tighten the wheel nuts. The plastic hex head bolt is most likely used as the adjustment/tightening bolt in a car accessory e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Dash-Camera-Full-HD-Car-Video-Camera-Recorder-2-7-LCD-120-Viewing-Angle-/331873129111?hash=item4d452e1297:g:SAIAAOSwuhhXUtaK.

You have scored an extra tool; standard handle breaker bar. Handy for extra leverage than the smaller length socket wrench. https://store.snapon.com/1-2-DRIVE-TOOLS-C795494.aspx

Your experience is confirming what was in this Car Review https://practicalmotoring.com.au/car-reviews/2017-toyota-corolla-zr-review/ This URL probably explains where Toyota has been directing its development efforts. https://www.automotivelinux.org/announcements/2017/05/30/automotive-grade-linux-platform-debuts-on-the-2018-toyota-camry

I will be interested in hearing the good, bad and ugly about the rear muffler delete. Be a good idea to retain the mufflers just in case the Police think your vehicle is too noisy.

Safer option to have your vehicle towed to the mechanic. Interested to know the final outcome especially the repair time. I think your mechanic will earn the $$$. The other thought that I have had is to consider changing the engine oil depending upon how much extra "heat stress" it endured. I drive sedately most of the time [2-3000 rpm] and very rarely above 4,000 rpm. Certainly hoping for less stress and longer lifetime of the engine components and accessories.

Took me 5 hours to replace both lower control arms and this was with the bolts pre-loosened. Crowbar and a flashlight were handy extras. Crowbar to help lever out the rear bushing and the flashlight to see for aligning the retaining bolt for the rear bushing. Initially, I did the driver's side and this went easily. No problems with the rear bushing must have been sheer luck. Passenger side was more time-consuming. Eventually got the retaining nut aligned with the bolt for the rear bushing. Then more time aligning the other bolts. Checked the original control arms and the rear bushings were damaged. Passenger side was in worse condition.