campbeam

Winter is coming. It could be the battery low on charge etc. If possible, try to jump start the vehicle. Just did a quick Google search and some posts referred to cleaning the throttle body and also the throttle position sensor.

Did you do a full flush of the transmission fluid? If you just changed the fluid in the pan, then consider doing it again. Will not hurt to check the electrical connections to the shift solenoid. More for general maintenance purposes, clean the battery terminals, check grounding cables and check fuses.

I bought this 2008 Prodigy knowing that it had issues caused by neglected servicing. Previously been focused mainly upon getting rid of the engine sludge without removing the front valve cover. Now addressing this error code and finally started to learn to use an OBD2 scanner. For various reasons, I have been suspecting the fuel injectors and dirty spark plugs. Monday, I did the usual short distance drive and the error code has reappeared. After looking at the freeze frame data, the fuel trim readings are looking much better. Planning upon a longer drive to get the spark plugs up to operating temperature to self-clean.

Currently enjoying the 98 octane; engine seems to be running smoother. I have been reviewing my purchase of fuel additives etc. and using 91 RON. Considering using 95 octane unleaded. Past experience with E10 is terrible fuel economy but maybe have to re-consider if it is going to clean the fuel system.

Attached is a download of the Boge Shock Absorber Catalogue from 2011. Stock number appears to be only used by Celica. BOGE_Catalogue_September_2011[1].pdf

My initial reaction was that the $400 quote sounded too good but maybe not if the cheapest parts are used. If that was the case, you will be back in about 12-18 months to have the work done again. The more aggressively you drive, the higher quality performance parts required. Merely as a starting point from a braking performance perspective, I would be considering DBA slotted rotors and Bendix Ultimate pads. Given that I mainly do urban driving, mostly drive sedately with extra braking distance and very light on the brakes, a possible "economy" option could be standard rotors and general duty pads.

Latest update is that for the past week, I have been recording the OBD2 readings from the freeze frame data, then erasing codes. Code would reappear within a day or 2, so I ended up with readings on 6th, 10th and 11th. I normally use 91 octane fuel but decided to refill with 98 octane on Saturday 6th and refilled again with 98 octane last night. I think that I may have been trying to eliminate the possibility of engine misfires due to low quality fuel with sulfur content. Picked that thought up from some internet postings about P0420 error codes encountered when using fuel in a US state. I was expecting the Check Engine Light to return last night. Earlier this morning, an OBD2 scan revealed P420 as a pending code. I did another OBD2 scan when I got home and for the first time got a green tick indicator on the OBD2 scanner, no error codes. A few more OBD engine cycles must have cleared the pending code. A few weeks ago, I put in a bottle of full fuel system treatment so possibly in combination with the 98 fuel, it has cleaned up the spark plugs and maybe the fuel injectors. Hope this is the case. I will keep on monitoring for the next few weeks.

Good pick up with the battery. If possible, check the water levels in the battery cells then recharge the battery.

I would start with checking the accelerator cable assuming it has one. Next would be cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor and throttle body. Also check/clean/replace the air filter. Further down the list would be to consider a clean of the fuel injectors.

I usually take a different approach of upgrading brakes and suspension. Also do lots of preventative maintenance to have the enine as efficient as possible. Clean air filters and sensors for fuel efficiency.

I have found RedBook and also this site useful for some initial research then off to more specific Google searches. http://australiancar.reviews/

This URL may be of interest. https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21995/electric-power-steering-column-noise

I understand that in the USA, there are also environmental assessments/charges based upon the level of servicing over the life of a vehicle. This would explain why car manufacturers have introduced longer servicing intervals e.g. 15,000 kms, "sealed for life" transmissions etc. I also love a good conspiracy theory especially those that mirror reality. Denso iridium long life plug has an estimated/expected life of 80-100,000 mlles. Spark plugs wear and the level of deterioration of performance can be affected by engine variables e.g. running rich or lean, burning oil etc. Another factor to consider is how long the plug has been fitted to the engine. After so many years, care will need to be exercised removing the plugs particularly from alloy heads.

Only just realised tonight, that the foglights only work when the parking lights are also on.

This indicates to me that you have not looked at the DBA online catalogue. You will need to know model details of your vehicle and also measure to determine the diameter of the front rotor. Looks like the rear rotors are a standard size This is all part of the DIY process; determining what needs to be replaced and the correct parts. Alternatively, book your vehicle into a brake shop and they can deal with the issue of sourcing and fitting the correct parts.

When it comes to brakes, I am not prepared to take any risks with unknown brands. In my eBay watch list, I have RDA and DBA rotors and Bendix brake pads. Some eBay sellers have a rotor and brake pad package deal which may be an option for consideration and then change over to Bendix pads later. SuperCheap has the occassional sale of 2 sets of Bendix brake pads for the price of 1. http://www.dba.com.au/catalogue/online-catalogue/ http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/page/Product-Rotors.aspx http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/page/TB05.aspx http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Not personal experience but some internet research, something to consider is whether to replace the rotors and brake pads at the same time or not. Assuming that the existing brake pads are still in reasonable condition [i.e. not going to damage the new rotor], the new brake rotors are fitted and when bedded in e.g. after a week or so then the new brake pads can be fitted.

Possibly depending upon how soon after the warranty expiring and the problem occurring e.g. 1 month. Agree. The unwanted and the unexpected calls on the wallet happen; welcome to the joys of motoring. Your choice until something goes wrong. Girlfriend was reminding me today of her experiences with unscrupulous "rip-off businesses; one replacing a good part with a damaged part [cost her $300 for the Toyota dealer to supply and fit a new replacement] and another one wanting to charge $500 if their diagnostic machine was able to identify the cause which it could not. Toyota dealer identified the issue as dirty fuel injectors and charged her $40. Service intervals are based upon time and distance travelled. The older your vehicle, the more servicing especially for preventative maintenance purposes. I am "old school" and DIY so I change oil and filter every 5,000KM despite what the manufacturer recommends. Just as well, I am not paying $100+ for each service.

It may be a good idea to consider replacing the transmission filter next time. I am sure that your vehicle has the U151F transmission but always best to check/confirm yourself. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/122-highlander-2nd-generation-2008-2013/499217-diy-transmission-filter-change.html

In short, yes. If you want to double check, then remove a spark plug from your engine. For comparative pricing purposes, here is an eBay URL. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4PCS-OEM-Genuine-Denso-SK20R11-3297-Spark-Plugs-90919-01210-Toyota-Lexus-Scion-/262932193720?hash=item3d37fae1b8:g:6f8AAOSw44BYIYxi You may also be interested in this URL which has a few tips for removing the coil and spark plug. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/156-avalon-3rd-generation-2005-2012/377079-ngk-dilfr6d11-denso-fk20hr11-spark-plugs.html

What is the error code number?

One of my pet dislikes, particularly in recent years is bright white headlight glare. Admittedly, most of my driving is suburban and main highways with overhead lighting so I do not have a need for more powerful headlights unlike if I was more driving on secondary roads at night. On my previous vehicles, I have replaced the expired standard halogen bulbs with more efficient halogen bulbs and my headlights are correctly focused down onto the road. In response, I do use night vision sunglasses, as required to dramatically reduce the glare from oncoming vehicles. Recently, I noticed an oncoming vehicle where the passenger side headlight appeared to be twice as bright as the driver's side and appeared to have a very unfocussed, dispersed pattern. I happened to notice this overseas article and wondered if this may be a future indicator or rationale for increased policing relating to headlight glare. If so, the owners of those vehicles with illegal modifications/upgrades to HID and LED headlights may have to reconsider the options and consequences. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4464138/Wondering-car-headlights-painfully-blinding.html

Better to trust your owner's manual. For further clarification, best to go to the spark plug manufacturer's catalogue for your specific region. http://www.denso.com.au/sparkplug/finder MakeTOYOTA ModelRAV4 Engine2.4LÂ 2AZFE Cruiser Year7/2003 on SparkplugSK20R11 Iridium PowerIK20 Iridium ToughVK20 Gap1.1 Size is 16mm. https://www.densoproducts.com/product.aspx?zpid=11131

Fair point about fuel consumption and inner city driving. I also try and time traffic lights by accelerating a bit slower to the red light ahead. Roadcraft is never irrelevant. It comes in many different forms; all about driving smart, driving safe and a win is getting to your destination without a damaged car and no nervous tension. Many years ago, I was in peak hour traffic and saw a column of blue tyre smoke from someone braking hard about 10-20 cars ahead. I was immediately onto my brakes slowing down ready for the potential concertina accident ahead. Learnt the hard lesson [with reminders] that while you are looking at what the traffic ahead is doing or expecting to be doing, pay closer attention to what the vehicle directly in front is doing.

Would be best to get a 2nd opinion from an auto electrician to confirm that it is the alternator. Have you contacted your local Consumer Affairs office to determine whether it is possible to make a warranty claim even though the warranty period has just expired? Have you already contacted the dealer that sold you the vehicle and tried to make a warranty claim? You could also contact Toyota Australia Customer Service and see if they can assist. If you need to replace the alternator at your own expense, determine the existing brand [Bosch or Denso]. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alternator-to-Toyota-Camry-Altise-Ateva-Sportivo-AVC40R-eng-2AZ-FE-2-4L-02-09-/271684625713?fits=Year%3A2008|Make%3AToyota|Model%3ACamry&hash=item3f41aa6531:g:6XMAAOSwubRXJe2N http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alternator-for-Toyota-RAV4-ACA22R-ACA23R-engine-2AZ-FE-2-4L-Petrol-03-06-/271245649287?fits=Year%3A2008|Make%3AToyota|Model%3ACamry&hash=item3f27802587:g:dSIAAOSwiYFXJe1X

This is what I refer to as roadcraft; smart driving skills anticipating what is happening and going to happen. I try to cruise up to slower or stopped traffic, even brake early a little bit so the vehicle is still moving when the traffic in front takes off again. Just laugh at [and avoid] idiots tailgating, accelerating hard, braking hard.