campbeam

Standard size wheels are either 15x6.5 or 15x7.0 with tyres 205/55/15 http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/1997-toyota-celica-sx-manual/SPOT-ITM-280907 2005 Celica have 16x16.5 wheels and 205/50/16 tyres http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/2005-toyota-celica-zr-auto-my03/SPOT-ITM-280956 This tyre calculator may be useful. http://www.etyrestore.com.au/tyre_calculator.php A friend has 195mm width Michelin tyres on his 2001 Celica which is his daily driver and is quite pleased with them.

Located this URL which mentions carbon build up around the piston rings. http://costeffective.com.au/2017/08/18/fix-low-compression-toyota-engine/

Yes, always best to deal with these issues as soon as they are detected. It will be a good idea to ask your friend to check the rear VVT i oil line. Hopefully it has been replaced/upgraded to the full metal line. If not, the mid rubber hose section is a ticking time bomb; just a matter of time when it will develop a leak. It is propbably a $500 repair job. Your friend should know exactly what I am talking about. Another separate but related issue is the oil cooler hoses. Something else your friend should know.

I am very much DIY since a young fellow helping my Dad do grease and oil changes on Holden Utes. The following URL will give you an idea of the oil housing location and the oil filter cartridge is inside. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=2+gr+fe+oil+housing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=xJWiWe6zLqfr8AfvvobADQ I buy my oil filter cartridges in bulk from an eBay seller. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Set-Fit-For-Toyota-Genuine-OEM-Oil-Petrol-Filter-04152-YZZA1-Pack-Kit/182355687844?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 I buy quality oil with the latest SN and/or GF-5 specification [for better sludge protection] when on special at SuperCheap, AutoBarn, Repco etc. Usually 10W-40 is the cheaper special.

I am waiting for the 2018 Camry to be released; next Toyota based upon their new modular global chassis architecture. Certainly expecting more of angular designs. I have also yet to see a C-HR on the road in Brisbane. Girlfriend/wife was talking about a RAV4 this morning so I am expecting her to be quite interested in the C-HR when we finally spot one.

As you mentioned in another post, your car is back and the dealer has advised regular servicing to avoid sludge build up. You will definitely need to do this otherwise you can expect them to reject any future warranty claims for engine sludge. Because I do a lot of short distance driving, I clean the oil filter cartridge monthly and then change the oil and cartridge at least every 5,000 kms. Perhaps you can consider having the scheduled services done at the dealer to maintain your 12 month warranty and do an additional interim oil change to keep any oil sludge build up under control.

Clicking sounds I usually associate with the CV joint on the drive shaft. Best to also check the wheel bearing.

If you do a Google search to get rid of spiders, you will find to use either white vinegar or peppermint oil. These are sprayed into the vents. Suggest doing this overnight a few times.

There was a similar post from another member some time ago. As I recall, the dealer ended up removing and thoroughly cleaned the front valve cover to resolve the sludging and smoking issue.

Located this URL for the sensor location. http://www.tcamanual.com/side_air_bag_sensor_assy_rh-875.html Just guessing but quite possibly if the passenger seat was unoccupied then this may have an affect upon the airbag deployment.

Essentially a low speed collision. Interesting that there is no broken window glass. I understand that airbags will deploy at 40+kph more so for frontal collisions. Your experience is why I am always a bit wary around SUV drivers and roundabouts.

This topic has bee n covered a few times in this Forum. It should have come up with a Search in this Forum. Does this Aurion have a good service history? Did you buy it from a dealer with warranty or private seller? Typical of a lot of modern engines, the 2GR-FE engine is prone to oil sludge if it is not regularly maintained and quality oils used. Suggest that you check the PCV [positive crankcase ventilation] valve. It may be blocked by oil sludge and need to be cleaned and/or replaced. Remove the oil fill cap and check the front valve cover for accumilated oil sludge. I use a thickshake plastic straw to poke around down the sides of the head. If there is lots of oil sludge, then the best option is to remove the front valve cover and give the cover and oil channels a thorough cleaning/degreasing. White smoke on start up.doc

Based upon my internet searching over the past few years, 10 years battery life is what you can expect then swap/replace. Exactly why I am not considering buying a used hybrid vehicle. Something else on my to be avoided list is the CVT tranmission. Another component where there is no easy fix/replacement [at this stage] and buy a new replacement costing $$$ thousands.

The life of the automatic transmission fluid can be very much affected by higher temeratures. Do you have a decent sized ATF oil cooler fitted? Also consider using a quality full synthetic ATF If not, in my crystal ball, I can see more transmission work and servicing being required unless of course you give up towing 1.6 tonnes. ATF Life and Temperature Relationship.docx AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Oil Results.pdf Synthetic Transmission Fluid.doc

This attachment may be of some use. Toyota Squeaking noise from engine compartment.doc

Not a Hilux owner but I would be looking at what heavy duty King Springs are available, at least. I will leave it to other members to recommend whether you should also replace/upgrade your struts and lower control arms.

Because I have been messaging Kroeger, it is more a case of disappointment that the DBA front rotors have started to look like this after only 1 week of daily driving. I think that for what he spent, he could have probably got 2 sets of quality standard rotors. As I have said to him, I have not noticed any rust on the RDA slotted and dimpled front rotors on my 1998 Camry, quite possibly there is a fine coating of brake dust. Agree, exactly what I am thinking and the slotted vented rotor has to be designed for better air flow for heat dissipation. Also, I understand that the bedding in process for new rotors and pads should be fully complete after about 500kms of driving.

What do you mean by dry lube, fks. Which product can be used?

I occasionally spray WD40 on my key to help lubricate the ignition and door locks.

This URL may give you a few thoughts for painting the slots with a high-temperature paint. https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/painting-rusty-drilled-and-slotted-rotors.753466/

As per attached lube guides, refill capacity is 1.9 litres and differential is combined with the transmission. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ Best pointer that I read and do is to firstly loosen the refill bolt before loosening the drain bolt. Quite logical because you are not going anywhere with a drained gearbox that you cannot refill. Good idea to work out how you are going to refill the gearbox especially if you do not have a hand pump.

The following YouTube video suggests possible causes as low coolant level, air trapped in the heater core, heater control valve etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eai_tFzltLc

Noticed a few other Sportivos on eBay but more KMs.

Definitely, the 2008 Gold assuming no mechanical faults/ expensive repairs required. Well worth considering paying the extra for registration. Ask yourself this question. If I wanted to resell the vehicle next month which one is more likely to sell? Personally, I prefer a stock standard vehicle. Fancy looking set of mags with gutter rash not appealing, more of a red flag that it may have been driven hard.

I guess that you are leaving a smoke screen visible in your rear vision mirror. I would be checking for a blocked PCV [positive crankcase ventilation] valve and possibly also for engine sludge. If you had the V6 2GR-FE engine, I would definitely be saying that it is the oil channels in the valve cover becoming chocked with accumulated oil sludge such that the oil cannot drain back quickly enough before it is sucked up via the PCV valve into the intake. Solution is to either replace the valve cover or thoroughly degrease/clean it. Do not know the recommended oil change interval for your vehicle. If it is 10,000km then [in my opinion] you definitely need to be using a quality synthetic oil.