campbeam

I usually check the oil level when the engine is cold. Recently oil level was above the full mark when cold. After running the engine a few minutes and then rechecking, oil level was exactly at the full mark on the dipstick. I am wary of overfilling the engine. Previous father in law worked for Castrol in the 80's and their Technicians confirmed that overfilling his engine was what caused the head gasket to blow. Expensive lesson for that dealership who overfilled his Corolla engine and refused to adjust the oil level after he returned the vehicle immediately after being serviced.

Good idea. If it works then it will make removing the transmission pan a simple task as it should have been if that sub-member was not there to restrict access to that bolt. Have to remember to have one of these bolts when I next do the transmission filter in about 2 years time. At the time, I thought about using a longer bolt and a larger sized nut so that the bolt head would end up being raised above the outside lip of the pan thus easier to undo. Unfortunately, I could not find my collection of spare bolts and nuts at that time. Ended up not tightening that problem bolt too hard.

Not a RAV4 owner but I would open the doors and check for manufacturer stickers on the body door opening. It should list vehicle details including the auto transmission model e.g. U140E/F. If this manuafcturer's sticker is not there, then check the glovebox.

MetalHead, Have another read of the posting by ZZT86 on September 21 [Page 3 of this thread] where he details his discussion with Penrite. This is consistent with internet postings by transmission shops recommending regular servicing of the transmission every 2-3 years or 40-50,000kms. I replaced the ATF in the transmission pan last weekend and did it again yesterday morning. There is a history of transmissions failing if they are not serviced after the ATF has reached the end of its useful life. This is why it was a high priority for my 2006 ATX with about 166,000kms on the odometer at that time. There is also a history of transmission issues after owners do a ATF change and get the transmission fluid level wrong. It is not a basic DIY task so better to pay an experienced Toyota transmission specialist rather than getting an expensive repair bill.

I would be inclined to add an extra 100ml. Do a test drive and check that gear changes are still smooth and there are no leaks.

Attached diagram shows the location of the camber bolt.

Best to have a talk with your wheel alignment shop about whether the adjustable camber pins will be worthwhile for your vehicle. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOLATHANE-CAMBER-ADJUST-BOLTS-15MM-BUSH-SUIT-TOYOTA-AURION-GSV40R-44270-/182387364246?epid=14005822688&hash=item2a77225196:g:ILQAAOxyXDhSjYFd This listing is better priced. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOLATHANE-44270-Front-Camber-adjusting-bolt-TOYOTA-COROLLA-01-07/332257086466?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

I have tried to replace the battery but not so successful. It takes a bit of time to cut and open up the sealed unit. Battery is soldered onto one of the terminals. Rather than desoldering, I broke off the end of the terminal; bad choice. You can get replacement remote shells on eBay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-TOYOTA-Remote-1B-shell-Camry-Corolla-Altise-Azura-Sportivo-Ateva-Aurion/221489980367?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Based upon previous posts by other Forum members, Toyota service refers to it as an oil strainer not as an oil filter. Hence not on their servicing schedule to be replaced [my conspiracy theory] . Most likely there is a more time-consuming method e.g. removal of sub-frame member. I understand that Toyota Service will only change the transmission fluid at the specific request of the owner. Quite different if it is specifically stated on the servicing schedule for that particular model vehicle.

Yes, that is why it is a pain to undo. I recall that I was able to use a ring spanner to initially loosen the bolt just a very little bit. Then it was a frustrating process using the open end of the spanner to loosen it a bit more. Finally went searching and located a very thin/minature sized 10mm spanner which finished off loosening it enough so I could then use fingers.

I hope that you have previously seen and read this attached document relating to removal of the transmission pan. U660E Transmission Filter Replacement.doc Even with the engine mount loosened and the engine raised, space is limited. I constantly check [using a rachet as a guide] that I am loosening the bolt not tightening it especially when working upside down, twisted around etc.

Highly important to replace old/worn wiper blades. On a previous interstate trip encountered heavy afternoon rain and had to slow down from 100kph to about 80kph much to disgust of locals behind me who eventually overtook. Replaced wiper blades a few days later and no problems dealing with heavy rain at 100kph. Blades now making noise although a bit better after giving them a clean wipe down. Next step was to either give them some silicone spray or replace. Procrastinated and finally bought this item on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Windscreen-Wiper-Blades-Suit-TOYOTA-Aurion-OEM-Style-Hybrid-Aero-10-06-12-12/222222988997?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 I was also considering this item but decided to stay with the Aurion OEM style http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Windscreen-Wiper-Blades-Suit-TOYOTA-Camry-2006-2012-XV40R-Aero-Design-PAIR-Braum/222331844415?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

I have tyre pressure at 38psi. Lately, I have increased tyre pressure to 40psi but I drive short distances and only check tyre pressures about monthly. If you do some searches on this Forum, you should find that it is advisable to be using quality oils and regular servicing.

I always drive with parking lights on for safety, visibility reasons.

Just based upon past experience with my 1998 Camry, noise was the water pump starting to fail. When it did fail, obvious coolant loss and it also took out the timing belt. Perhaps when the alternator was replaced, the belt was overtightened resulting in more stress on the water pump bearing. It could also be coincidental and the water pump bearing is at the end of its life. This would explain the coolant loss.

76 ft lbs = 103 Nm [internet search result Toyota with 21mm nuts] Personally, I use a wheel brace; gradually tighten the nuts firmly in a criss-cross pattern. Once car is back on the ground, then I hand tighten again. Learnt a valuable lesson about not overtightening the wheel nuts on the Aurion. I saw the workshop person arrive at the el cheapo tyre shop and increase the setting on the rattle gun. When I drove my Aurion off the ramp, there was a squealing noise and they ignored my protests at the time. Ended up having to jump on my wheel brace to loosen the wheel nuts and noise went away. Wondered why at the time and found out later that overtightening wheel nuts can distort the cap of the disc rotor causing noise. https://autoexpert.com.au/owning-a-car/2010/11/5/how-to-tighten-wheel-nuts-its-not-as-simple-as-you-think.html

In your case, if you have issues with flaring or gear changes being rougher, add 100ml of ATF and review. This is a workaround to the recommended procedure. As per my post on 23rd September, I did my ATF change with the engine and transmission cold and recorded volumes fairly accurately. Remember you are fooling around with a $4,000 transmission so you need to get the volume measurements right. I am thinking about adding an inline transmission filter to the oil lines at a later stage. My post on 22nd September has the attachment for the oil line locations. I have bought these filters on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-Filter-For-Civic-Accord-Fit-CR-Z-Insight-CR-V-Eleme/322576972618?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 I also have this filter in my watchlist http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/All-New-In-Line-Screened-Turbo-Oil-Filter-AN-6-Fitting-Keep-your-Turbo-going/170978105891?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

I will be interested to know what your local mechanic finds and the outcome with the dealer.

Upon further thought, best to also check the front wheel bearings and the steering rack tie rod end ball joints.

I use oils with the latest oil classification of SN or GF-5. They can be mineral, semi-synthetic or full synthetic. I do a lot of short distance suburban driving so oil sludge is my main concern. Therefore, I do frequent oil changes at 3-5000 km intervals. I will be using a full synthetic oil at next oil change ready for an interstate trip approx, 4000 kms in a week.

I have an electronic version of the manual. OK but not as convenient as a hardcover printed manual. i would be tempted to go for the Haynes manual from the UK but i mainly use the internet for posts and tutorials about particular repairs or maintenance.

Your photo is that of the lower control arm. The bushing does appear to be broken/torn. If that is the case then it needs to be replaced. Most likely you will need to replace both sides. I happen to have this eBay listing in my watchlist. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-FRONT-Left-Right-Lower-Control-Arm-TOYOTA-CAMRY-06-2007-ON/251628735522?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

In the features section of this URL, it states that this HID kit is not road legal. https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/m-tech-canbus-slim-ac-hid-conversion-kit-h11-6000k https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/m-tech-canbus-slim-ac-hid-conversion-kit-h11-8000k

If you do a search; you should find posts by Forum members who have got good results using sound deadening material from Jaycar. I have noticed that the 2017 Corollas have been fitted with improved sound insulation so maybe it is something for due consideration.

I had to re-read the attached URL to locate the short sentences about noise and drone. http://www.galetoyota.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-a-toyota-cvt-transmission/ Attached URL has an interesting comment about the longevity of the CVT in the Japanese market. https://www.reddit.com/r/Toyota/comments/3rck0f/looking_at_a_2016_corolla_but_not_sure_about_the/