campbeam

Keep monitoring for the next few days. Upon the next startup, I would be expecting that there should be no smoking

I have noticed a few posts on the internet expressing an opinion that commercial flush is essentially kerosene with additives so I decided to attempt a follow up comparison between Penrite engine flush and kerosene. Previous weekend, I idled the engine on my 2008 Prodigy for at least 2 hours. This was new engine oil with the penrite flush that had only been previously used for about 10 minutes. Before starting the kerosene flush comparison, I checked the oil filter cartridge and determined that the amount of sludge particles was quite nominal. I then added approx. 375 ml of kerosene to the engine oil and idled the cold engine for 5 minutes. A visual check of the oil did not indicate any change. I then decided to run the engine until it was warm then an additional 10 minutes [similar to instructions for the Penrite Flush. Afterwards, I checked the oil filter cartridge and also dropped the oil. There was no noticable change in the amount of sludge particles and the oil colour. At this stage, the apparent visual comparison results are quite inconclusive [in my opinion]. Now planning to continue to warm the engine and idle it for an additional 10 minutes for the next few weekends and see if there are any obvious changes worth mentioning..

The PCV valve screws into the front bank valve cover. I rolled up a small piece of Chux into a tight cylinder shape then screwed/rotated one end into the opening. The idea is to test drive and confirm that the engine no longer smokes when you are accelerating. Following shows the location which is similar for the 2GR-FE engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmJSkSPCou8 This is for the engine cover. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-KLUGER-PLASIC-ENGINE-COVER-GSU40-GSU45-08-07-03-14-2GR-FE/202006901554?hash=item2f088cb332:g:ficAAOSwx2VZgl47

Different garden ornament but the same issue of the starter motor not engaging and turning over. At least mine did initially start engaging the starter then stopped. Next step is to probably crank the engine by hand then maybe give the starter motor a thump. In your case I would be inclined to get fresh batteries for your remotes and a fully charged car battery. Using the remotes, open and lock the doors a few times, then try to start the car.

The temporary measure is essentially to disconnect the PCV valve from the valve cover so it can no longer draw oil into the intake. The piece of Chux is to plug the hole in the valve cover to keep dirt, foreign objects, etc out. The PCV valve remains connected to the vaccum hose and it will now be able to only draw air, as required. Then place/wedge the PCV valve on top of the valve cover and replace the engine cover. Smoke should now quickly go away once the oil in the intake and vacuum hose has been sucked into the engine. Is so, this confirms the cause as being the sludged up oil channels in the valve cover. If the engine is still smoking , then oil is being drawn in by some other means.

This tyre size calculator should be handy. 235/45/18 is close to the circumfrance of thr original tyres 215/60/16 https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ Also if you increase the tyre pressure on your standard size tyres to say 38psi, you will find this makes the tyre side walls stiffer and it improves the handling a bit. Recently I bought a set of 4 camber adjustment bolts on AliExpress.com but have yet to fit them. Just something to consider if required for a better wheel alignment and tyre wear.

As a temporary measure, undo the PCV valve from the cover but leave it attached to the hose. Fold up a small piece of Chux or similar material and screw into the valve cover opening. The engine may smoke upon start up. Go for a test drive and do a few accelerations. Ideally, there should be no smoke. This will confirm that the issue is oil sludge in the engine and valve cover. If you are still not convinced then fit the new PCV valve. Monitor for the next week or so and expect that the smoke will reappear.

If you want to resolve this issue quickly, get your mechanic to remove the front valve cover and give it a thorough clean. This will give you definite proof of how badly sludged up the valve gear and cover is. Another engine flush will also be necessary. Then replace the PCV valve.

Use of fog lights is a legal issue and a safety issue potentially more so at night time with both headlights and fog lights on for oncoming traffic. For safety reasons during the day, I drive with parking lights on all the time and with headlights on when highway driving.

No; a burnt out fuel pump means you will be walking until it is fixed. The petrol is cooling the pump so a good reason to refill often. When I go to the petrol station I also refill 3 jerrycans so I can regularly top up the fuel tank.

In the meantime, I would be giving the existing PCV valve a thorough clean spraying degreaser etc, let it penetrate and repeat a few times. It should give a rattling sound as an indication it is not blocked. Your choice when you fit the new PCV valve but I would be inclined to wait a week or so after the engine flush. Something else I do is to check the oil filter cartridge for the amount of sludge collected and give it a rinse in diesel or petrol to get rid of most of the accumulated sludge. Positive Crankcase Understanding.doc

This URL is definitely worth your time to read. Very close replication of your experience. https://www.noordeman.com.au/smokey-toyota-2gr-fe-v6-engine-the-simple-solution/

My PCV valve was blocked open and I had to thoroughly cleaned it a number of times while desludging the engine. If you have read the various threads then the quickest sure solution is to remove and clean the front valve cover particularly the blocked/restricted oil channels in the cover plus do some engine flushing. In my case, I badly underestimated the extent of the oil sludge build up in the engine so it has taken about 12 oil changes over 2 years. Currently, I use a combination of diesel and ATF when doing an engine flush and oil change. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/55791-hilux-de-sludge/

AutoBarn Christmas catalogue valid to 22/12/2017 has Mobil Super 1000 15W40 5litre $10 each [limit of 2] According to Mobil website this is a premium mineral based oil with SN cpecification. Looks like I am doing another trip to AutoBarn.

One possible explanation is that the aircon system is low on refridgerant or a blocked filter. I would be inclined to ring an airconditioning shop or a mobile aircon service and get their thoughts on what it could be. Might be a case of getting them to do a leak test and a re-gas plus a filter replacement.

Never had a diesel engine but have used diesel and more recently ATF for desludging the engine. When doing an oil change, I drop the old oil then fill engine with same amount of diesel and idle the engine for 10-15 minutes. I then repeat with another diesel flush and discard the previous diesel which should be quite black/contaminated. Drop the 2nd lot of diesel which should not be too bad so can be retained for the next diesel flush. New oil and filter and add up to 500ml of ATF to the new engine oil. After a few weeks check the condition of the oil. Better to do an oil change, as required when the oil appears to be quite dark/badly contaminated rather than wait.

Do a search on all forums with the search term " white smoke " and you will find a few threads on this issue. If you look in the Latest Posts, you will find the following thread http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/54384-2009-aurion-blowing-smoke-on-acceleration/ If the vehicle is under warranty, take it back to the Dealer for the oil channels in the front valve cover to be thoroughly cleaned and also the PCV valve cleaned or replaced. Definitely check the oil level of the engine to make sure it is above the low mark. Personal experience of oil level being full in the morning and around the low mark after about 7 hours of highway driving with some hard acceleration leaving smokescreen behind. Panic stations until I found out the cause. For the past 2 years, I have been adding 500mls of diesel or ATF to the engine oil to assist in desludging the engine. Depending upon how badly sludged up your engine is, the oil will become quite a dark colour [heavily contaminated] in a few weeks so time for another oil and filter change.

Good starting point is to start perusing the Latest Posts and browse through a Thread from the initial post to present. Copy and paste worthwhile comments and the URL into a Word document or excel spreadsheet for future reference/consideration.

Some forum members have done a muffler delete on their Aurions for more decibel gain than kw gain. Kluger owners have upgraded the rear sway bar to reduce body roll. Being an old school, stock standard sort of guy, I am more into efficiencies and regular/preventative maintenance. Use quality brand tyres for better traction and braking distances. Use quality engine oils and do regular oil and filter changes. Not a fan of extended service intervals so staying with 5,000 km intervals particularly for mineral based oils. Semi-synthetic and full synthetic oils required for longer service intervals of 7,500 km to 10,000 km. Regularly check/clean the engine air filter, clean throttle body. Use long life iridium spark plugs. Life is about 190,000km but better to change earlier [which I have yet to do]. Consider using fuel injector cleaner. I use a product called “Fuel Doctor” plus whatever fuel injector cleaners are on special.

Require more information of the engine fitted to your Prado[?] . I did a Forum search with the terms white smoke and located this thread which might be relevant. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/44758-1kd-ftv-whitegrey-smoke/?tab=comments#comment-532678

Be thankful that it is a minor recall. You made the right decision and bought Toyota. Hyundai and Kia are currently doing a major recall of 1.2M vehicles due to engine failures to check/repair and replace engines.

When the fuel light comes on, you have a reserve of 15 litres. I usually get another 5 litres in the tank after the pump stops first time. I have also noticed a difference with the hi-flow pumps stopping earlier than the normal flow pumps. The most I have refuelled has been about 60 litres so I do accept that the fuel tank capacity of 70 litres is as specified by Toyota.

Not raIning yet, so I did a follow up comparison adding the Penrite engine flush to the used engine oil after the engine had been warmed up and idling for at least 10 minutes. As expected, the oil was quite a dark colour after the flush and has been discarded. I then did the diesel engine flush and also idled the warmed up engine or at least 10 minutes. Surprisingly, there were slightly more sludge particles for the diesel flush than the Penrite flush [highly similar to the previously posted photos] . Only conclusion, I am prepared to draw at this stage is that a 2nd engine flush does produce results.

I have been using diesel to flush my engine when doing oil changes for many, many years. For the past 2 years, I have done about 12 oil changes to desludge my Toyota 2006 Aurion engine. In that time, I have not used a commercial product. After a few false starts, I think that the engine is finally sludge free. However, a few recent posts got me thinking about whether my engine could be still badly sludged and it was time to change over to a commercial product. Penrite engine flush is currently on special at Autobarn [25% discount] so that is the product I used for this comparison effectiveness test. I cleaned the oil filter cartridge and housing of any sludge particles, dropped the used engine oil [about 1 month old] then did an engine flush with 6 litres of diesel. Following photo shows the results. Cleaned the oil filter cartridge and housing of any sludge particles, dropped the diesel then filled with new oil and performed the Penrite engine flush. What I did notice was while the engine was running during the Penrite engine flush, the engine was idling a lower revs approx. 600 instead of the usual 700. Guess this is the effect of the oil being thinned during the treatment. After photo does show sludge particles and the oil was not too badly contaminated. Overall quite happy with these results for my 2006 Aurion engine. I will say that I am encouraged to possibly include the Penrite engine flush in my maintenance schedule. I have a 2008 Aurion as my project car so thinking about doing a future comparison doing a Penrite engine flush first then the diesel flush as a follow up.

My first cars were mainly Honda; great reliability and fun to drive. Then got a Corolla SX hatchback with the 100kw motor. When it came family time, price and reliability were the main considerations at the time. Essentially a choice between a Honda Accord or a Toyota Camry. Honda too expensive for our budget. Happy with the Camry.