campbeam

Best to visually check the condition of the brake pads and rotors. It may even be necessary to remove the brake pads for a better check. Also good opportunity to check the wheel bearings.

Transmission design with sensors for fluid pressure, temperature etc to then activate gear change. ATF also expands in volume with temperature. Total volume of ATF in the U660E transmission is 6570ml which expands by about 500ml when at operating temperature.

Parking lights have to be turned on for the fog lights to work. In the Aurions, there is an additional relay that needs to be plugged in under the dash. Search of the Aurion Forum should locate the posts with more specific information.

Just to satisfy my curiosity, where abouts in Queensland are you located. Quite possibly your local wreckers may have also got flooded I myself am located Brisbane Southside. Last time I was at local wreckers at Rocklea, they still hac a red Aurion Sportivo with a steering column and dash etc

Following URLS indicate that they are different. Connection plugs appear to be the same on these URLs. Best to compare the DENSO part numbers marked on the sensors and do your own searches on eBay etc. http://www.denso-am.com/e-catalogue/ https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Denso-Lambda-Sensor-DOX-0242-DOX0242-Replaces-89467-33040/361535269711?epid=1645120554&hash=item542d2e6b4f:g:JqcAAOSwWxNY1SqY https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Denso-Lambda-Sensor-DOX-0204-DOX0204-Replaces-89465-20750/322075756765?epid=1094633850&hash=item4afd3608dd:g:RckAAOSwsW9Y1Sq5 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Denso-Lambda-Sensor-DOX-0261-DOX0261-Replaces-89467-33090/361535270248?epid=1345378612&hash=item542d2e6d68:g:xqsAAOSwzgBY1Ss-

It will be a big task but I would be looking at unplugging all of the electrical connections and spraying with De-watering fluid [WD-40] and electrical contact cleaner. A hair dryer or heat gun may also prove to be handy. When it is all sorted out and the vehicle is back on the road, consider what else you can do as a preventative measure. Best option may be to take out comprehensive insurance before the next flood re-occurs. I went looking at car flood protection bags on the internet. This URL got me thinking and latest thought was to also use a car trailer plus 2 waterproof covers. http://leesframeandaxle.com/flood-proof-car/

I would recommend using the services of a car broker when you are ready to purchase. I expect that I am already talking to the wise and you have arranged your finance approval.

Have a read of the Post 4 in this URL http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/906-camry-6th-gen-hybrid-2007-2011/847378-please-help-ignition-locked.html

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/tough/structure.html This URL more answers your latest question. http://www.denso-am.com/media/product-news/2014/20141211_spark-plug-replacement-all-you-need-to-know-from-the-experts-at-denso/ https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-x-IK20-DENSO-IRIDIUM-POWER-Spark-Plugs/132084270710?epid=1338172288&hash=item1ec0d60676:g:lSsAAOxyrM5TH6HL https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VK20-Denso-Iridium-Replacement-Spark-Plug-Sparkplug-new-old-stock/272837539860?epid=23009542913&hash=item3f86627814:g:iToAAOSw-0xYiJqD#shpCntId

Long life iridium spark plugs have a longer service life than platinum plugs. I did a recent post about spark plugs in the Aurion Forum. In my ready reference notes, I have the following: When you do go replace the plugs, NGK and Denso are usually the brands that are recommended. Ensure you get the long life iridium plugs. The regular iridium plugs don't have platinum side electrodes. These are the Denso spark plug codes: http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/power/features.html

Have a read of the following URL http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/242929-hard-starting-problem-4.html Recommend going to a Toyota Service Centre and getting an engine diagnostic test performed. Without a proper diagnosis, you can replace a lot of parts unnecessarily and not solve the underlying cause.

Best to go to Toyota Service Centre and get them to run a diagnostic on the transmission. I am assuming that the Hilux transmission has an ECU.

I had to read the Toyota procedures a number of times before I noticed the additional 200ml. This is on the last page of the attached document: (d) Add an additional 200 ml of ATF WS through the refill hole. U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc With the correct ATF level, gear changes are now ultra smooth in my 2006 Aurion ATX. I am more likely to notice the speed and rpm changes [if any] than the gear changes. Something I do is to keep a steady 2000 rpm from a standing start, watch the speed progressively climb up to 60 or 80 kph and not really feel the gear changes which would be happening.

Do some searches in the Camry and Aurion Forums. It is BRAKE fluid. Being a bit grumpy and pedantic but get your spelling/terminology right. This helps when you also do some internet searches, particularly for YouTube Videos.

My guess is that the ATF level is a bit low. Have a check of your owners manual to see the service interval for checking/replacing the ATF. If not stated in your owners manual, then it is wise to replace the original ATF after 10 years or 160,000 kms. 70,000 kms for severe driving conditions can be applicable. Best to use a full synthetic ATF and to also drop the transmission pan. Interesting the amount of accumulated sludge on the bottom of the transmission pan.

After the fluid is just a series of drops then tighten the drain plug. Extra step is to add another 200ml of ATF. Without this extra 200ml of fluid, I was experiencing some lag and harshness in gear shifts, more noticeable when ATF was cold.

After an error is detected, the system does a number of "detection/checking" cycles which varies for each error type. The system is able to reset if the error is no longer detected.

The key should turn to the left to unlock the doors. It was a little bit stiff on my Aurion. Just had to turn the key with a bit more force to the left compared to the right. Something I do occasionally is to spray the key with WD40 to help lubricate the lock barrel.

You can try eBay and/or local wrecking yards. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xcamry+heater+blower+resistor.TRS0&_nkw=camry+heater+blower+resistor&_sacat=0 Last item I needed was an interior door opening handle. After searching eBay for the best price, I then went to the local wreckers. Finally found a local wrecker charging half the price of others. End result was $20 used vs $60 new.

Denso recommends replacement at 100,000 kms but they will last longer e.g. 100,000 miles. http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/power/features.html I sourced my plugs from eBay and got very lucky because seller listed the Denso FK20HR11 in 3 lots of 4 instead of 2 lots of 6. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-X-DENSO-IRIDIUM-SPARK-PLUGS-IKH20TT-Toyota-Aurion-Prado-FJ-Cruiser/122239874919?epid=0&hash=item1c76107767:g:XH8AAOSwuMFUl36K

Following is from my ready reference maintenance notes. When you do go replace the plugs, NGK and Denso are usually the brands that are recommended. Ensure you get the long life iridium plugs. The regular iridium plugs don't have platinum side electrodes. NGK Iridium Spark Plugs - Part No. DILFR6D11 NGK's Iridium IX plugs have been designed with a patented Two Stepped Centre Electrode which improves anti-fouling performance in all driving conditions.

I do not know the specific location for your particular vehicle but it usually on the drivers side under the dash bear the bonnet release. On other vehicles, it can be hidden away in the glove box or nearby. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2005_Toyota_Corolla_S_1.8L_4_Cyl./fuse_interior/replace

I thought that I would share an internet post based upon actual experience of high mileage vehicles and making them last. https://www.quora.com/Is-it-ever-worth-it-fixing-a-car-when-the-repair-costs-are-more-than-what-the-car-is-worth What caught my attention was the images posted as a visual guide of when to change engine oil and ATF.

To put things in perspective, consider the Title to be Click Bait. What I particularly noted from the video is that you have to repeat the application every 3 months or so. I have applied the product to both new and used tyres. The used tyres on the front have worn down and due for replacement with other used tyres that have also been treated. New tyres are on my project backyard queen. What the product provides is essentially UV protection as I stated in my post on 9th January. In my brief use of the product, I have not noticed any difference in tyre grip in the dry or the wet.

Your experience confirms my belief that franchise operations are quite dependent upon the experience/quality of the operators and staff. Good that the Toyota service centre was able to identify the cause and fix your issue.