campbeam

I would be looking at cleaning the throttle body and the Idle Air Control [IAC] valve. Nest step would be cleaning the Mass Air Flow [MAF] sensor. Check/clean/replace the air filter. After that, I would be considering changing the automatic transmission fluid [and maybe the transmission filter] particularly if it has not been done in the last 50,000 kms. If the vehicle is also due for an oil and filter change, then also do this too.

Also confirm that full synthetic ATF which meets the Toyota WS specification for ATF is going to be used. It will be more cost to also replace the transmission filter/strainer and have the transmission pan thoroughly cleaned. Interesting how much sludge accumulates on the pan after 11 years. Unfortunately there is one bolt on the transmission pan which is restricted by the sub-frame so it can be difficult and time-consuming to remove. Any transmossion shop that has experience with the Aurion transmission will know this.

You are the source of the problem. This is what happens when you do not perform routine maintenance. Suggest that you do the recommended routine maintenance. Have a good read of your owner's manual about what is recommended to be done at the 80,000km service interval and the next one. There is nothing rip-off/totally unnecessary in that list in my opinion. It is more a case of determining what is overdue for routine and should be done for preventative maintenance purposes.

There are a number of reported how to fixes when you do a Google search. Here is one: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repairing+Toyota+Sienna+Air+Filter+Vacuum+Connector/25776

Drive with very much the same goals. Learnt the hard way over the years to be patient and more considerate of other drivers. You can hope that Karma will sort out the incompetent morons, preferably with only themselves involved.

Drive safe, drive smart. Following YouTube which I happened across yesterday demonstrates the difference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bkq71P20qQ8

Really just guessing but I would be inclined to have a much closer look at the engine mounts. https://www.samarins.com/glossary/engine-mount.html Copied the following from an internet search: The way your mechanic will test your engine mounts is by putting the car in drive or reverse, planting his foot on the brake and giving the car some gas. If a mount is broken, an observer looking in the engine compartment will actually see the engine lift up and twist. With a broken mount, we've seen an engine move as much as a foot.

Probably a good idea to consider upgrading the torque convertor to handle the extra KWs.

I buy in bulk my oil filter cartridges on eBay using part number 04152-YZZA1 in the search term. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Set-of-5-For-Toyota-Highlander-Venza-Oil-Filter-Engine-04152-YZZA1-Pack-Kit/173069930798 Because I do mainly short distance driving, I change my oil and filter more often e.g. every 3 months.

You could buy the special tool but I just use a 3/8" drive extension bar onto the base of the oil filter housing. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-Lexus-Toyota-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Cap-Housing-Tool-Remover-14-Flutes-Universal/112160742871?hash=item1a1d4d1dd7:g:Y6IAAOSwxX1Z11kl:sc:AU_StandardDelivery!4118!AU!-1

Agree. Get it done ASAP. Make sure that you mention the vibration because they may notice/suggest the possible cause.

I would be inclined to check the cv joints in the drive shafts for excessive wear/movement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kuV7xyRETzU

I have also got the dash mat which helps to keep the heat off the dash. What helped for my sticky dash was repeated applications of olive oil using paper towel. Paper towel does stick to the dash in places and absorbs the olive oil before coming loose; eventually. Naturally, this creates a bit of a mess.

210 KW at the wheels indicates that the engine must be producing 281 KW. This is based upon an expected 25% difference between engine and wheels. Following thread shows results of 155.18 KW for a modified Aurion [non supercharged]. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/25689-custom-y-pipe-result-better-than-150hp/?page=3

Looks like you have missed noticing this very recent thread. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/56288-aurion-performance-mod/ In my opinion, this is the most "bang for buck"modification for the Aurion that you can get done. Another recommendation on the Forum is Upgrading the rear anti-sway bar to 19mm diameter which improves the handling.

Have a read of the following closed thread which started in 2009. Reveals a fair bit of what has worked or not worked for other owners. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/19248-experimental-exhaust-system/ Modification of the Y pipe has been a centre of attention and where the most gains are likely to be achieved. Pictures in this thread demonstrate how this has been effectively achieved at a modest cost. It also appeals to me because it is a discrete modification.

Nice looking mags. I am not a fan of the standard sportivo style mags so to me the change of mag wheels is a big appearance improvement. Reckon you will have to be extra careful all the time [more so than myself who has touched an occasional traffic island or kerb] so the wheels do do get any "gutter rash".

I would be inclined to jack up the car and rotate each of the front wheels. Unlikely to be wheel bearings but will not hurt to check anyway. Next step would be to remove the wheels and visually inspect the brake pads and rotors. Also rotate the wheel hubs to replicate any clicking sounds. Next check would be the sway bar bushes. If you find nothing obvious at the front, then check the rear. Following thread may be of some interest. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/55406-front-rotorspads/

If you are a serious buyer and have your finance already arranged, then engage the services of a car broker. Probably best to provide some specific requirements e.g. mileage less than 100K, no adverse car history such as repaired write-off etc.

Your comments about axle tramp with this modification got me interested. I usually drive my 2006 Aurion ATX [198K on the odometer] fairly sedately. ATX is currently fitted with standard size 216/60/16 Pirelli brand tyres which are "as new" with lots of tread depth. Last night, I just happened to be stopped at the front at traffic lights on the local highway so decided to do a fast launch. I may not have had the throttle totally flat to the floor but there was no loss of tyre traction before getting to the 80kph speed limit. I think that having new quality brand tyres will make a difference with improved tyre traction.

My guess is that the 3mm ball bearings have most likely come from the strut mount bearing.

When I replaced the transmission filter [at 165K] , I just guessed how much ATF had drained out and replaced an equivalent amount. Next weekend, I drained too much ATF because I did the fluid level check incorrectly without the engine running. Gear changes were either rough or too slow to change. I then added 100ml of ATF the next few weekends until the gear changes were a lot better. I also kept re-reading a number of internet articles about checking the U660E transmission fluid level. Finally got all of the steps together in the right sequence, adjusted the fluid level correctly and gear changes were silky smooth. Since then over the past 18-24 months, I have drained and refilled the transmission pan a few times. Now part of my annual maintenance plan and time to do it again in the next month.

Thank you for your contribution to the Forum. Good solution to move the flex pipe back to gain the extra needed space. The modification is very tempting at that price and worth further consideration.

Looks like a worthwhile modification. How much did this cost and how long did it take for the shop to do it?

Not exactly a financially smart move to buy a new car. Only worthwhile, in my opinion if you are going to be keeping the vehicle long term i.e. 10+years. Probably best to mention Toyota's proven reliability and resale value particularly the Toyota Corolla. Suggest that he considers test driving some Toyota models and benchmark/compares them against his initially proposed Hyundai i30. Maybe he changes his mind or it just confirms his choice.