campbeam

Not an automatic transmission specialist but knowledgable enough to guess that the shifting issue is most likely related to the valve body rather than a shifting solenoid. In my opinion, YES. New ATF will help to clean the channels in the valve body and smoother gear changes. The Yaris has a capacity of only 2.5 litres for the ATF so I would be inclined to check/change the fluid on a regular basis. I would expect after 130,000kms that there would be a fair amount of accumulated sludge on the transmission pan. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ Usual outcome when warning signs are ignored. Regular servicing/maintenance is going to maximise the life of the automatic transmission. I change the ATF in the transmission pan every 12-18 months. Filter has been replaced and next scheduled in 40/50,000kms.

Maybe this following YouTube video is relevant:

Don't know enough about rebuilding engines to offer real world advice. Just noticed internet posts about forged pistons and connecting rods for the 2GR-FE so maybe an opportunity to also upgrade the head bolts and possibly the valve springs. I am more thinking about reliability/prevention than increased HP. Best to analyse the cause for the low compression. Maybe too much before the engine is at optimal operating temperature. Learnt the hard way [too many years ago] not to over rev a cold engine then having to replace the piston rings a week later for a brief ego moment.

Gates is a well known brand. This is the belt that I would seriously consider buying for my vehicle. Just bought on eBay, a Gates Micro-V Ribbed belt for the girlfriend's Yaris then later found the following YouTube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rpuwL6V3mY The alternator brand is an unknown so therefore consider the seller and the worth of their warranty. Genuine Bosch or Denso is going to cost more.

Absolutely no auto electrical experience but it sounds to me like a faulty relay or a loose electrical connection. If in your position, I would start by removing and inspecting any of the the fuses associated with the lighting system. No specific reason but a case of eliminating the unexpected or unusual. Next step would be to check that the connectors on the battery terminals are tightly fastened. Check the earth cable and ensure that it is making a good ground with the body. Check the alternator connection. Just did a quick Internet search. Following article may be of some assistance. https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/troubleshooting-dim-car-lightbulb-problems Another article suggested checking the headlight bulbs. Best to give those high beam bulbs and the connectors a really good inspection even use a magnifying glass. After all that you should have eliminated the obvious faults, then it is time to go to the auto electrician.

The following eBay listings are for information purposes only. You will need to confirm whether it will suit your vehicle or do an eBay search. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alternator-fits-Toyota-Rav4-ACA22R-ACA23R-ACA38R-2-4L-4cyl-Petrol-2AZ-FE-2003-12/302639351572?fits=Model%3ARAV+4&hash=item4676b60714:g:iZMAAOSwatda1ELA:rk:3:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gates-Micro-V-Ribbed-Belt-FOR-TOYOTA-RAV-4-ACE-7PK1905/263271125500?epid=2175076349&hash=item3d4c2e91fc:rk:1:pf:0 I found the following article about serpentine belts to be informative particularly the quality of materials. https://coreplanets.com/best-serpentine-belt-reviews/ I have added the Gates Micro-V Ribbed Belt into my eBay watchlist.

A few months ago, I picked up on special the Penrite Copper Eze. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/copper-eze#/ When I replaced my spark plugs last weekend, I was careful about only applying a small amount to the threads only.

eBay seller in their listing was recommending replacing all ignition coils after 10 years or 100,000 miles [160,000 kms]. Recent internet searches for best quality ignition coils are indicating that badly worn spark plugs can shorten the lifespan of the ignition coil. It makes sense to also replace the spark plugs at the same time. After plenty of searching on various Denso webpages, I finally able to determine that the lifespan/recommended replacement interval of the Iridium TT plug is 100,000-120,000kms. This contrasts with the Iridium Power IK16 plugs with a lifespan of 15-20,000 kms. So now considering buying the IKH20TT plugs for my other Aurion which has done 109,000kms unless I can find the 12 FK20HR11 plugs that have been stored and misplaced. Best price for NGK ignition coils to fit the Aurion that I could locate yesterday was $100 plus postage; not tempting to me.

My 2006 Aurion has now clocked 204,750kms after a recent 5,000km interstate road trip. Previously decided to replace the spark plugs with Denso long life plugs FK20HR11 and later to also change the ignition coils, engine performance/acceleration a bit hesitant and not as good as previous year. Denso ignition coils from 2 eBay sellers in China on my watchlist were out of stock so ended up with the following ignition coils from a USA seller for approx AUD$135 less Flybuys eBay voucher. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6PCS-Ignition-Coil-for-Lexus-RX350-ES350-Toyota-Camry-Avalon-Rav4-3-5L-UF487/131133586608 Lifetime warranty and claimed 15% performance increase over OEM got the sale in preference to this other eBay listing from another USA seller https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-Lexus-Toyota-Camry-Heavy-Duty-Blaster-Ignition-Coil-UF487-IC273-B344Y-6/132347743911 I have only done a few drives for approx. 50kms but I am noticing a difference in engine performance. Certainly hoping for and expecting an increase in fuel economy. Interested to hear from other owners who have recently replaced the ignition coils and their recommendations.

I used the above approach rather than remove the intake and replace gaskets. Started at 4:30pm and paused at 7:30pm after replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils for the rear bank then reassembling. Probably could have saved 30 minutes by being better organized and having to find better quality 6 point socket and breaker bar to undo 2 of the nuts on the passenger side strut mount. Surprisingly, driver's side strut mount nuts came undone quite readily. Only took 20-30 minutes to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils for the front bank.

Just noticed an eBay seller saying that the recpmmended replacement of ignition coil for a Toyota was 10 years or 100,000 miles [160,000 kms]. In October, I replaced an original coil on a 2007 Yaris with about 190,000 kms on the odometer after it threw up a check engine light. Spark plugs also ended up being very worn and well overdue for replacement which was done. I am thinking that if the spark plugs had been replaced earlier then there would have been less demand/stress on the ignition coils. This weekend, I have replaced the spark plugs and all of the ignition coils on my Toyota Aurion which has done 204,750kms. Previous owner would have had the spark plugs replaced probably at 100,000kms and it is most likely that the DENSO ignition coils were originals.

Not a Hilux owner but as a general guide/initial starting point I do an eBay search to see what is currently available for parts, upgrades and modifications. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/33579/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=toyota+hilux I also do searches on Gumtree which can be handy for identifying nearby wreckers.

I can certainly see the benefits for this modification to the merge pipe but I also prefer to keep my Aurion stock standard. Still very tempted mainly for efficiency reasons. Very much into low profile with a very quiet exhaust rather than loud and show off to attract the attention of the law. If you do a search on the Forum, you will find others have done muffler deletes and another fitted short sports mufflers. After lots of reading, I have come to the conclusion that the best value upgrade is quality known brand tyres.

Quick solution is to disconnect battery for at least 5 minutes. Recommended solution is to get a OBD scanner to read and reset the error codes. When you know what the error code is, you can then do a Google search and start to diagnose the root cause. Following is a basis OBD II scanner on eBay and another affordable one. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Autel-MaxiScan-MS309-CAN-OBDII-Diagnostic-tool-OBD2-Scanner-Scan-Tool-for-Check/401616177229?hash=item5d8230884d:g:Sb4AAOSwPCZbwKKH:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUTEL-AL301-AutoLink-OBD2-Vehicle-Fault-Code-Reader-Eraser-Scan-Tool-AU-Stock/132193597685?hash=item1ec75a38f5:g:BtwAAOSwONBZAYsa:rk:30:pf:0

Good news that you had no dramas removing the existing spark plugs. Hope you remembered to put a small amount of anti-seize lubricant on the spark plug threads. More important when using long life plugs which are not going to be replaced for many years. Nothing like a good bit of maintenance to keep your vehicle reliable and running smoothly plus the personal satisfaction when DIY goes well.

Never had a diesel so the following is based upon a Google search. Following article suggest a few cuases e.g. dirty air filter, not using the right engine oil, over-fuelling due to worn fuel injectors. https://www.lubrizoladditives360.com/black-smoke-cause-impact-and-prevention/

Immediately after replacing suspension struts and springs, it is normal for ride to feel harder. Usually after a few weeks, parts "settle"into position and you also get used to the different ride feeling so it does not feel so harsh. Also look at your tyre pressures. With 215/60/16 tyre on the Aurion, I would suggest 36-38psi. As I have worn suspension, I have found 40 psi to be good on the front for handling purposes. 40psi on the rear appears to be too much [more wear in the centre of the tyre] so planning upon gradually reducing tyre pressure back to 36psi then keep reviewing.

Definitely check your owner's manual for the recommended oil specification and viscosity. For your consideration and comparative purposes, I am thinking about the following 3 day deal from SuperCheap https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/shell-shell-helix-ultra-engine-oil---5w-40-5-litre/215344.html?cgid=2018_wk20_oil#segment=1&page=1

Now close to 205,000 km. I bought my 2006 Aurion at 166,000 km, blowing white smoke on start up so I got it a very good price. Service history was quite suspect especially as it was being done by a Ford dealership as per some servicing agreement. Supercheap have a 3 day deal on Shell Helix Ultra engine oil 5W-40 5 litre for $29.89 [limit of 2] so very tempted even though I could wait for the next tempting deal.

Certainly expected that the combination of new oil and a few consecutive days of travelling 800kms on open highway would give the engine a good internal clean. It was surprising because I thought that I had already thoroughly de-sludged the engine and there has been no white smoke on start up for many months. Definitely agree that the preferred option is the removal of the front valve cover for a thorough clean and the sump removed if you want to check the oil pick up screen is not blocked. For my own hard-headed reasons of not wanting to disturb the engine, I deliberately chose the option of multiple oil and filter cartridge changes.

Recently completed my annual interstate trip of approx. 4500 kms in 2 weeks. Unpleasantly surprised/embarassed when my 2006 Aurion output a significant white smoke screen when doing an overtaking on the open highway. Quick temporary solution was to unbolt the PCV valve from the valve cover and plug the bolt hole with a rolled up piece of Chux material. Part of the trip preparation was an oil change with full synthetic 5W-30 and a new oil filter cartridge. Last Sunday, I undid the oil filter cartridge housing to check the condition of the filter cartridge. Very surprised at how much oil sludge particles were in the housing and the filter cartridge. This was the most sludge particles ever over the last 2 years that I have been de-sludging the engine with regular oil and filter cartridge changes rather than removing and cleaning the oil channels in the valve cover. It appears to me that full synthetic oil is more effective at de-sludging an engine than semi-synthetic and mineral based engine oils.

Interesting what you find when you do a Google search for engine recall and faulty valve springs. I was not expecting to find the following article about Toyota. https://www.autoevolution.com/news/toyota-faulty-valve-springs-recall-list-announced-22268.html

I have my own "biased" opinions about both low mileage and high mileage vehicles. Consider the service life of the various components in the drive train, the suspension and steering etc. A potential worst case scenario is having to replace the engine, transmission, drive shafts and wheel bearings during the next 12-24 months. If that prospect has not deterred you, then consider further about the purchase.

I reckon that it is sheer coincidence. My 1998 Camry 4 cylinder was idling fine at a set of trsffic lights after a 60km trip of mainly highway driving then would not idle after stopping at the next set of traffic lights after just 2kms. Solution ended up being to clean the throttle body and idle air control valve which had not been done since new after about 150,000 kms. Those items are now on my annual maintenance list for all of my cars.

I would be more inclined to consider fitting a nudge bar instead of a bull bar. It certainly should not make your vehicle too front heavy and give you somewhere to fit your 9" spotlights. After doing a fair bit of internet searching, my current thinking /emphasis is upon fitting the best quality known brand tyres suitable for your vehicle and driving needs. I also have an "enhanced" hip-pocket nerve so I am inclined to stay with the more readily available standard size tyre and wheel packages e.g 205/60/15, 215/60/16. If you are going to fit larger wheels and tyres, just be aware of any potential speedometer error. https://tiresize.com/comparison/