campbeam

Best to properly diagnose the issue before throwing parts and time and effort at it. Some YouTube videos will show how to release the tension on the serpentine belt. From there you can check out the amount of movement [if any] in the tensioner assembly and the pulley. YouTube videos will show how to repack a sealed bearing. I used Castrol LMM grease to repack both of the idler pulleys for the serpentine belt when I was replacing the alternator. If badly worn, the pulley will need to be replaced. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fits-TOYOTA-AURION-HV-GSV40-Idler-Tensioner-Drive-Belt-Bearing-Pulley/264099642698?epid=20027346004&hash=item3d7d90bd4a:g:tE0AAOSw1KRcHtYq&frcectupt=true Possible worst case scenario is that tensioner assembly will need to be replaced. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DAYCO-FOR-TOYOTA-RAV-4-KLUGER-AURION-TARAGO-2GRFE-DRIVE-BELT-TENSIONER-PULLEY/142477518529?fits=Model%3AAurion&hash=item212c5266c1:g:qCUAAOSwLs5XKDK-&frcectupt=true

Plenty of different opinions in the following thread. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/54637-touring-tyres-that-do-not-compromise-handling/?tab=comments#comment-562289 Most important thing to notice is that only well known quality brands are being mentioned. My personal criteria is for a touring tyre with excellent braking performance in the wet. https://www.tyresales.com.au/search?search=vehicle&tyretype=passenger&brands=bridgestone%2Ccontinental%2Cdunlop%2Cgoodyear%2Chankook%2Ckumho%2Cmichelin%2Cpirelli%2Ctoyo%2Cyokohama&p=&year=2008&make=toyo&model=camry&series=auvtoyo2008aeas&size=215-60r16_95v&sortby=pricelowhigh Never be tempted to put budget priced tyres on your vehicle.

Following YouTube video URL may be applicable. I have just looked at the opening and some of the comments. Hope this is of some assistance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbPCbuzaG4o

Time to share my latest experience and learnings. I have a standby replacement vehicle 2008 Aurion Prodigy sitting in the back yard. Some weeks ago, It threw the P0328 error code and I suspected that a rodent could have been nesting in the valley of the engine. Posts on the US Toyota Nation forum indicates that this is an often occurence of the wires being eaten by rodents/pests. I did think that it might be a good idea to dismantle first before buying parts but did not do it. I was hoping that it was only the sensor gone bad so bought replacement [non-genuine] sensors before dismantling the engine. Only way to get to the sensors on the Aurion engine is to remove the lower intake manifold. I also took extra care and attention using rags to block off intake ports so nothing dropped down into the piston combustion chambers. Also used grease on the end of the allen key when removing the bolts to save time finding a dropped bolt. Finally discovered that both wires on one sensor were broken off plus chewing and the wiring on the other knock sensor had also been chewed. Next step was to remove the wiring harness and check the part number tag, These knock sensor connectors are not easy to get off. Ended up using a screwdriver to push the locking tab into the removal/open position and another screwdriver to lever the connector off the sensor. Next setback was that the wiring harness part number tag was faded and illegible. I found the Rock Auto website to be more user friendly than Amayama website catalog to locate the correct part numbers 82219-06010 and 82219-41010. Part ordered on the Amayama website and awaiting approval with delivery in about 2 weeks. The re-assembly fun can then begin. At this stage I am inclined to leave the original knock sensors and just replace the wiring harness. Interesting the amount of oil residue in the manifold and on the stems of the fuel injectors. Another learning is that the metal gasket edges are knife like sharp so a bit of blood and some verbal blessings over the manifold has been added to the DIY experience. Not wearing gloves has benefits and also costs. Biggest learning is that I should have taken more preventative actions to keep the rodents away.

A while ago, I bought a C-TEK charger [Repco Special] and have been using it to charge and rejuvenate a number of batteries. I was going to delay buying a new battery but AutoBarn put out a 2 day deal 30% off Century Batteries ending today 22nd June. My existing Century Battery model 75D23L MF [CCA 620] is still going strong after more than 2 years. Ended up buying the Century Battery model NS70L NF [CCA 660 and RF 140] @ $160.30 which fitted into the battery tray easily.

I previously watched some YouTube videos about repacking sealed bearings. . When I recently replaced the alternator, I took the opportunity to repack both of the idler pullrys. Interestly, it was the upper idler pulley underneath the thermostat housing that was in more need of having to be regreased. Instead of a pick, I used a precision screwdriver with the smallest flat blade plus some silicon spray to help the process. I also used Castrol LMM grease, pushing the grease in with my finger plus also grease on the inside of the seal which then helps to push more grease into the bearing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf_sttobyyY

RDA rotors is a good choice. However, I bought the following front rotors on eBay but have yet to fit them. I also bought the rear rotors too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SLOTTED-VMAXS-fits-TOYOTA-Aurion-GSV40R-2006-Onwards-FRONT-Disc-Brake-Rotors/122678193968 I also use the Bendix Ultra Premium pads [proven product] but the General purpose will also suit my driving requirements. I drive smart so trying to avoid any unnecessary hard braking and most of my driving is essentially urban. However, I do an annual interstate open highway trip so my vehicle is set up for an emergency hard braking. Long past experience was having to do a hard brake from 100kph down to a standstill to avoid a head on collision. Still remember the cloud of tyre smoke drifting by after becoming stationery. Also do not overlook having good quality brand name tyres to enhance braking performance and safety.

Have a look at this eBay listing for the part number. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-AURION-ALTERNATOR-3-5-2GR-FE-2008/333111502525?hash=item4d8efe26bd:g:8LUAAOSw2hhchdBK&frcectupt=true It is a time consuming task to replace the Aurion alternator so my recommendation is to buy a best quality new alternator.

Much like yourself, my Aurion is also my first V6 and first sportsmatic transmission, Absolutely love the acceleration on the open highway when overtaking. Aurion cruises very nicely all day. Nice to know the engine outputs 200KW and quite amusing [to me] to watch all those cars with 4 cylinder engines being worked hard to show off. I prefer a stealthy whisper quiet sounding exhaust so also amusing to be beside a vehicle with a loud exhaust and to be well ahead of them from a standing start with just normal acceleration.

Ryan, the V6 2GR-FE engine fitted to the Kluger and Aurion has a timing chain. Engine should be good for 400K before any serious work is required.. However, this engine is more prone to engine sludge than other modern engines so regular oil and filter changes are essential. Recently, I replaced the alternator on my 2007 Aurion with 207,500 kms on the odometer. As [slow moving] DIY, it took me approx. 4 hours to remove alternator then 3 hours to fit the new one. Approx, 200K, I had to replace the rear VVTi oil line when the rubber hose mid-section sprung a leak fortunately early Saturday morning and I already had the parts. This was replaced with a full metal line and took me lots of hours.

I use RedBook and Australian Car Review as preliminary guides. It has the 6 speed sportsmatic automatic transmission which I absolutely love in my Aurion. Being very much conservative and traditional, I am avoiding CVT in used vehicles. Howver, the latest CVT with a fixed 1st gear in the 2019 Corolla has got my attention.as the next stage of evolution. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2014-toyota-camry-altise-auto/SPOT-ITM-402309/ http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Toyota&model=Camry&gen=888

Craig, I think that you will find that because your 07 Aurion is more than 10 years old that Toyota Australia will not accept a claim to replace the dash. However, your situation may be treated differently particularly if this dash issue had previously been reported for your vehicle by previous owner/s.

Rear brake pad dimensions are very different. You would be best advised to remove a rear wheel and visually inspect the brake pads to determine which one is going to fit your vehicle.

I usually use RedBook for specifications. Instead of VIN series it does have the engine code 2ZZ-GE for your vehicle https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2005-toyota-corolla-sportivo-manual/SPOT-ITM-281798/

I have just replaced the alternator in my Toyota Aurion. In hindsight, I should have checked the alternator output with a multimeter especially when I was thinking that the headlights were not as bright as before. Maybe your alternator has an intermittent fault to not be working the best when under load.

Just came across this URL which mentions 4 main recommended engine oil change intervals based upon your driving habits. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/vehicle-maintenance/dirty-truth-about-oil-changes.htm

Recently, the battery charging warning light came on while driving home Thursday night. Checked the fusible link and it ended up being OK. Starting to look as though the alternator would have to be replaced. As luck would have it, I was going to be taking the girlfriend about 4AM next Monday to the airport. Friday morning, I recharged the battery, refitted it Friday night to drive to girlfriend's house. Car was still drivable but the battery charging warning light was still on. Certainly then appreciated having the larger size and capacily before the battery became fully drained. Fortunately, the warning light went out after I accelerated hard to change lanes. I am guessing that the decoupler pulley on the alternator is now functioning correctly rather than the alternator. Will further check the alternator.

Not going to disagree but the discolouration is an indicator that the plastic is aging. I checked online and the best information was that the plastic wears from the inside and the life of a radiator is approx. 10 years. After about 15 years, the original radiator on my 1998 Camry started to have a slight leak around the top plastic tank so immediately bought a replacement from eBay. Radiator in my 2006 Aurion is about 12 years old and is only slightly discoloured/faded. Now got a radiator in my eBay watchlist.

I have noticed the same improvement but my Aurion does not pull that hard to the left. Attached file is my ready reference notes for the Pull to the Left issue. Something else to consider is to replace the front lower control arms on both sides with polyurethane bushes. Toyota Aurion Pull Left Issue.docx

There is lots of information in the prior posts for this thread. Solutions vary so it can be quite vehicle specific. Changing oil viscosity may help or even desludging your engine to improve oil pressure. In my case, I drive lots of short distances [15-20 minutes] so my engine is more prone to oil sludge than someone else who is driving longer distances for 30+minutes. Therefore, my oil change interval is more frequent. I have also changed over to full synthetic oil with SN or GF-5 oil specification for enhanced oil sludge protection. Best to do your own further research then work out a few options to try.

Have a read of Stress and Failure section in the following URL https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connecting_rod

I am more into stock standard with an emphasis upon preventative maintenance and efficiency gains. However, I am highly interested in this modification for potential efficiency gains. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/56288-aurion-performance-mod/ Although not a modification, lots of advantages in having the best quality known brand tyres suitable for your driving style and requirements. After tyres, my next emphasis would be upon suspension e.g. replacing worn struts again with a quality known brand suitable for your driving style and requirements.

Thank you for that bit of information. Looks like I will have to put a filter and ATF change on the "Should Do"list for my 2008 Aurion Prodigy which has 110K on the odometer when I finally decide to register her and give my 2006 ATX a rest. I was previously using Chief synthetic ATF but changed to Penrite ATF LV. Replaced the transmission pan ATF before an interstate road trip and again after 5K. Gear changes are now so much smoother when cold and not noticable when ATF has warmed up. Still got about 20 litres of Penrite ATF LV [purchased when on special] so will be a few years before I will need more full synthetic ATF.

Afer looking at this YouTube video, I would be considering more of the braking technology aids e.g. emergency brake assist. Good reminder to go check my vehicle's tyre pressure particularly after a recent [not serious] mishap with rear tyres losing grip going around a corner on a wet suburban road. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2T3clFrB8U

Main thought is that the differential is in a seperate housing to the automatic transmission for this Toyota Camry series. I was used to them being combined in my previous Hondas so overlooked replacing the differential oil when I was replacing the ATF. After about 100,000kms, I finally realised this. When I changed the differential oil in my 1998 Toyota Camry, it was very black.