campbeam

Could be a grounding issue. Just from reading some internet posts, I would be checking for any loose wires/poor connections. Something else to check is the battery cables especially both ends of the ground cable.

Rear windscreen on my 2006 Aurion shattered last year. No obvious reason. Car was parked on the street and when I came home, most of the windscreen had shattered into small pieces. Internet searches indicated that it could be a flaw during glass manufacture involving impurities. In my case, I was using the rear demister quite a lot so this could have contributed to the weakening of the glass structure. Since replacing the rear windscreen, I now rarely use the demister. Time may tell whether I might have been right.

If you get a leak then you are going to lose most of the engine oil onto the road very quickly, like a matter of a few minutes. If you notice the oil light come on, pull over immediately,turn the engine off and call for a tow to your nearest Toyota dealer.This quick action is what is going to save the engine. Late 2009 build engines on had the full metal oil cooler lines.

Yes, still miss my SX Seca after 21 years. I ended up getting a manual Honda Prelude for my boys to get their manual licences then sold it before the timing belt needed to be changed. It will be hard to find a SX or RV Seca in decent condition.

Appreciate the sharing of your personal experience and particularly noted that you are intending to revert back to stock standard.

Starting point would be to identify where the burning smell is coming from. Check brake pads or an oil leak onto the exhaust. You mentioned about changing gears. Without more detail, I would be thinking about when the transmission oil was last changed and to check the oil level on both the transmission and the engine. How old are the spark plugs; check condition of spark plugs and whether they should be replaced.

No direct experience but I was thinking either an upgrade to heavy duty springs or possibly an enhancement kit like the following: https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/RAS/RAS4529.html

Same discharge has happened to the girlfriend's Yaris. No real explanation for what happens except that the electrical circuits are now live. Probably also does not help that the vehicle has a small sized battery.

You would expect it to be fine but best to check anyway. Not really thinking that is an electrical problem but tracking down issues is usually a matter of elimination. Previously read a number of internet threads about various check light problems where the unexpected contributing factor has been a bad/low charge battery. Not a great fan of E10 fuel. If you have an OBDII scanner, then read for any stored error codes.

There are multiple causes for the warning lights to come on. I would start with dealing with the known issues. Suggest spraying some electrical contact cleaner onto the lock button. Check the fuses especially for the indicators. You mentioned filling up with E10 and then this happened. Perhaps coincidence but maybe not. Suggest putting some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. Next time the fuel tank is low put in some methylated spirits [200mls??] to absorb any water. This tip was mentioned by another member in a different thread. Go back to regular unleaded. I would also check the battery and the engine oil level. How old is the battery and is it keeping its charge? Also consider whether the car is due for an oil and filter cartridge change.

There are threads about this issue. Toyota Aurion Pull Left Issue.docx

Following YouTube videos will show you how to get to the window regulator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeZxmC7L2n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nrkCcz64x8 You are then going to most likely have to remove/loosen the motor/regulator so you can then push the window up. You could also use some string to put tension on the window arms to help with pushing the window up

When was the last time that the brake fluid was changed? Have you checked the condition of the brake rotors and pads?

Last weekend error code P0505 reappeared after I revved the engine up to about 3000rpm. Not haapy, so all prpeared to dismantle and reassemble this weekend. Early morning shower on Saturday had me rethinking plans. Ended up tightening up a few accessible bolts on the inlet manifold and the wire clamps near the throttle body and air box. Cleared the code then retested a few times on Saturday and Sunday by revving engine up to .2000 and 3000 rpm then back to idle. No more CEL. Been a long time getting this project car sorted out so can now focus more upon preventative maintenance. Maybe another oil change. Another re-learning to check and retighten then test again before charging straight in and disassembling. Saved a lot of time and effort.

A known issue is the idler pulley. It would be worth checking /do a diagnosis before throwing parts and labour. Toyota Squeaking noise from engine compartment.doc

Also received the same letter for my 2006 Aurion ATX. Toyota called it additional guest support and a warranty extension. Just did an oil change last weekend. I think that I might as well put the car up on ramps and have a thorough inspection of the oil cooler pipes. If there is any oil seep then I will be booking the vehicle into the Toyota dealer.

U660E Transmission Filter Replacement.doc Totally agree with your mechanic. I had the same experience until I got the level in the transmission correct. I have attached some documents that your mechanic may find useful. It took me a few reads of the Technical Bulletin to finally notice and action the line on the last page about adding 200mls of ATF after the fluid flow has stopped then install the refill plug. U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc How to to service the Toyota 6 speed Transmission.doc

I have stopped using E10 fuel. I did a few weeks trial with my Aurion ATX and fuel economy was worse by more than 10% with urban driving. I stick with 91 unleaded with the occassional tank of 95 octane.

Your transmission has just given you a big wake up call that it needs to be serviced. The automatic transmission fluid [ATF] needs to be changed. Best to drop the transmission pan to clean off the accumulated sludge and replace the transmission filter/strainer. Alternatively you could just replace the fluid in the transmission pan a few times. About 4 years ago at 165,000kms, I removed the transmission pan and replaced the transmission filter/strainer. Lots of sludge on the bottom of the pan. Since then, I have replaced the ATF in the transmission pan about every 6 months. I will have to check my records. Odometer reading just turned 210,000kms so planning upon replacing the ATF in the near future. Gear changes are smooth and unnoticable. I am DIY and have a tendency to over-service my vehicles and a great believer in preventative maintenance. $50 spent on ATF changes is a lot cheaper and easier than having to repair/replace a transmission. If you want your transmission to last, then service it and drive smoothly. .

After weeks of procrastination, reassembly done yesterday morning and engine started, initially at 2000rpm. Running ok but idle was still a bit higher at 1000rpm which I put down to charging of an older battery which I have been reconditioning. Restarted the engine in the afternoon and later noticed a check engine light [CEL]. Error code P0505 had me thinking it was a vacum leak or the throttle body needed a thorough cleaning. After checking for vacum leaks, I replaced the battery and sprayed cleaner into the air intake. No CEL and idle is about 900rpm. Something to keep an eye on and further investigate if the idle does not settle down to a lower level.

Just based upon experience with a Honda Prelude, I would be inclined to try and clean the EGR valve. Next step is the pathway from the EGR valve to the inlet manifold or valve cover. Something to further investigate so you know more about the EGR system for your specific engine.

I do not follow your reasoning. If you think that the underlying cause is an electrical fault that could cause a fire then that is a very different matter. A refurbished unit should have been fully tested and guaranteed, Looks like the extended dealer warranty was a good choice.

The main things to be concerned about are the vehicle history for accident damage and oil sludge build up in the engine. Both of my Aurions that I own, I bought with white smoke on start up due to oil sludge build up in the valve cover resulting in oil being sucked into the intake via the PCV valve. I am very much inclined to agree with your local mechanic. If the price is right, then buy it. The combination of synthetic oil and weekend trips will soon get rid of any oil sludge, Because I am DIY and most of my driving is short distance, I do an oil and filter change 3-5K kms. Only saying this as a recommendation to do regular oil and filter changes.

The 2GR-FE engine is very reliable however it needs to be regularly serviced with quality oils to avoid oil sludge. White smoke on start up is a symptom of oil sludge build up affecting oil circulation in the valve cover and oil via the pcv valve getting into the air intake.I bought my 2006 Aurion with 160k and a 2009 Aurion with 108k with this oil sludge/white smoke issue. There are also 2 known weaknesses with oil hoses with earlier models. The rear VVTi oil line had a rubber mid section. Eventually it develops a pinhole leak which causes obvious oil loss. I replaced this oil line with the full metal version and this job was quite frustrating for me. Quite separately are the oil cooler lines which have rubber hoses and when they leak results in immediate and total oil loss. Toyota Australia will replace these oil cooler lines when they leak at their expense. Replacement part is all metal.. Recently, at 208k, I have replaced the alternator. It is not a simple task. Before that, I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils. Again, another time consuming task removing various vehicle components to access the rear spark plugs. Another absolute must is the regular servicing of the automatic transmission. After lots of internet research, the ATF in these sealed for life transmissions should be replaced after 100k miles / 160k kms. At 165k, I replaced the automatic transmission filter/strainer and cleaned off the sludge build up on the transmission pan. Another frustrating job because of 1 bolt on the transmission pan that is difficult to access because of the vehicle sub-frame. Something else on my to do list is the replacement of the fuel filter. Rear seat needs to be removed for access. Absolutely love my Toyota Aurion and why I bought a standby 2008 Aurion, The driving pleasure more than makes up for the very occassional DIY weekend jobs.

Best to refer to your owner's manual. I also do a Google search using oil manufacturer + lube guide e.g. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/ I prefer to use oils with the latest oil specifications of API-SN and ILSAC GF-5