campbeam

The fun is the frustration and satisfaction of getting the job done. It is also my "hobby" being taught by my Dad to have useful hands rather than having to pay someone else. From these savings, I "invest" in tools. Still investing and finding more useful tools to have. I do have that infra-red temperature scanning tool but still unused. Through trial and error and input from other members, I have simplified the ATF change procedure. Maybe time to do a fluid level check just to be sure.

Have you read those URLs that I have provided? Read them and you will have some action items that will not cost much except some time and effort.

Have a read of this URL https://www.fixya.com/cars/t16075049-code_c1201_engine_control_system https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/0280018.pdf This next URL explains how you got that error code. Previous URL mentions dosconnecting the battery to reset the ECM or ECU. https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/0280018.pdf

I recall reading that ambient factory temperature is 20C. I did look for the fluid co-efficient of expansion and calculated that 6570ml expands by 490ml with a 80C difference. Agree.

Just gave the girlfriend's '06 Yaris YRS a bit of a service last Sunday. Cleaned the MAF sensor, the throttle body and the air filter. Al appeared to be ok but the vehicle started running very roughly and threw up a CEL. Scan tool showed a P0172 code which I have since cleared. Yaris was idly very roughly and would not rev, just coughing and spluttering. Initial thoughts was that I had stuffed up the MAF sensor and possibly the spark plugs need replacing. Next thought is that the air filter and the ignition coils need to be replaced. I have ordered MAF sensor, plugs and air filters via eBay. Another suspect is a vacum line which could do with a clamp. After cleaning the MAF sensor again and giving the Yaris a few test drives around the block, it is drivable but could idle more smoothly. I will give an update in a few weeks time.

My experience is that the Aurion is a great Highway cruiser. Able to run all day and when you need to overtake, there is plenty of power for a quick overtaking manouvre then back to leisurely cruising. I know that I have a V6 with 200kw of power and have nothing to prove. In my book, winning is all about getting safely from point A to B. Losing is a broken down or wrecked car. Prefer to leave that to the Holden and Ford boys playing with their toys. Also a low profile means no police attention and those involuntary offers to contribute to the Govt coffers.

Surprised that it is only $1000. Presumably that is on an exchange basis and they must be thinking that they can rebuild your transmission. According to Wikipedia, it is the same transmission. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Aurion_(XV40)

Automatic Transmission Fluid.

I am not an automatic transmission specialist but I do know how to do internet searches. Following URL indicates that the speed sensor can fail due to the transmission overheating. https://maktrans.net/Dattchik-skorosti-AKPP-U660E-Toyota-Camry-06-up-RAV4-09-up-Avensis-09-15-Highlander-13-up-Avalon-07-up-Lexus-ES350-06-15-NX200-14-up-RX350-09-up-8941333030-B-U Bad news is that this component is internal. It is most likely located near the valve body so hopefully can be accessed without having to remove the transmission. If you have overheated the transmission then the ATF will also need to be replaced. You will be poorer in $$$ from this experience. If you want to do stupid, then get yourself another car e.g. Ford Turbo XR6 then blow up the turbo [like my son].

I have had the same thoughts but not actioned them. Risk is potential wear or damage to the oil pump and the torque convertor. My previous and current approach has been to do multiple pan fluid changes. However, if I had been more knowledgeable and experienced at the time of the fluid level check procedure, I would have done a transmission flush by disconnecting the return line from the oil cooler at the bottom of the radiator. Last ATF change, I drained the pan when the fluid was at operational temperature and the car was up on ramps with the engine turned off. Reasoning was that the fluid would have expanded and there would be more fluid in the pan. I then let the drained ATF cool down then poured it into 2 x 1.5litre plastic bottles. I then used a 3rd 1.5litre plastic bottle to match the level in each bottle for re-filling purposes. Acceptable accuracy of measurement and no issue if you add a few more mls. Following are my calculations for the capacities within the various components of the transmission based upon servicing data at an ambient temperature of 20C and an operating temperature of 100C. Litres Expansion Mls Torque Converter Capacity [calculated] 1.9 1.076 2044.4 Valve Body Capacity [calculated] 0.4 1.076 430.4 Oil cooler and cooler hose Capacity [calculated] 0.5 1.076 538 Oil pan Capacity [calculated] 2.8 1.076 3012.8 Remainder/Balancing Capacity [calculated] 0.97 1.076 1043.72 Temp.20C Litres Temp.100C Mls Total Capacity = 6570ml = 6.57 litres 6.57 1.076 7069.32 Fluid Expansion @ 80x0.00095=0.076=7.6% 499.32 6570

Interesting that I just bought a twist socket set on eBay today after watching some YouTube videos about removing lugnuts. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11Pcs-Damaged-Nut-Lock-Remover-Twist-Socket-Set-Screw-Extractor-Tool-16-27mm/163841096946 Let you re-think that approach. Even just tightening the housing up until it stops will be more than sufficient then you have the metal expansion when the engine block and oil warm up to operating temperature.

No direct experience but for research purposes I use RedBook for model specifications and Australian Car Reviews. From there, you start refining more Internet searches about specific issues. http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=guide&make=Toyota&model=RAV4&gen=1119

I have looked at this type of tool a few times but stayed with using a 3/8" drive directly to the bottom of the housing. When refitting the housing, I lubricate the o-ring and then tighten by hand. Sometimes it takes a few attempts so threads match and it spins up quite freely. I then tighten it by hand all the way then back it off a 1/4 turn. Afterwards wipe down the housing in case you want to check there is no oil leakage later.

The transmission has an overall capacity of 6.3 to 6.5 litres. So there is plenty of öld" fluid after changing the ATF. Best way that I know of is to flush the transmission by disconnecting the return line to the transmission. In this scenario, you should definitely need to fully know and comprehend the fluid level check procedure. I have done this on my other vehicles [transmissions with dipsticks] but not on the Aurion. Another option is to drive the vehicle then do another ATF change. Toyota Camry ATF Transmission Fluid Flush.docx

Hypothetically, checking fluid level would not be necessary. Realistically, your fluid measurements would need to be very accurate plus allow for the volume of sludge build up on the transmission pan which you will be cleaning off and any evaporation. Best to add another 200ml or at least fill the new filter with ATF.

Easiest and quickest way to check for oil sludge is to remove the oil filler cap and have a look at the inside of the cap for amy build up. Use a light to look inside the opening of the valve cover. I use a thick plastic straw [what you get with a thickstake or a slurpee] to probe/slide down the side of the head. Another check is to look at the oil filter cartridge and the inside of the oil filter cartridge housing. White smoke on start up is anoth.er sign of oil sludge build up.in an Aurion. There are a few threads in this Forum on that issue. Oil sludge is an engine killer. Best prevention is regular oil changes and to use quality oils.

Totally agree with regular oil changes and using quality oils. I affectionately refer to my engine as the sludge bucket and my usual short distance driving is not helping. Definitely agree that a 3000km service interval is not the norm but I did buy my 2006 Aurion with 165,000kms and lots of oil sludge. .

I would use a number of plastic storage bins. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/shop-by-category/tools-and-storage/tool-boxes-and-storage/organisers-and-storage/plastic-organisers?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpLfzBRCRARIsAHuj6qUPN2RFNSOMMpYJmtg4qb6B4kk4L63UsAoV35bZ8SMaSRwzImIWAXAaAvHoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You put a funnel into the plastic tubing. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=10mm clear plastic hose Have a good read of this thread. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/56280-transmission-u660e/?tab=comments#comment-570320 Following are my attachments about servicing the Toyota 6 speed auto transmission fitted to the Aurion. How to to service the Toyota 6 speed Transmission.doc U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc

On the coolant overflow bottle there is a L [low] line and a F [full] line. Coolant expands with heat and goes from the radiator to the overflow bottle. When the engine is stopped and starts to cool down, coolant is drawn back into the radiator from the overflow bottle.

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan. If it is similar to the Aurion, then you will need a 6mm allen key to undo the drain plug. Then you then use the same 6mm allen key to remove the plastic fluid level tube. There is a refill plug on the side of the transmission. It is 24mm. You will then need a funnel and length of 10mm plastic tubing to refill. Highly recommend that you do a lot of research before attempting to change the ATF. There are a few detailed posts in the Aurion Forum about this topic. Good tip is to undo the refill plug first. Last time, a few weeks ago, I changed the ATF and measured the amount of ATF that came out using a couple of clear plastic bottles. Used another clear plastic bottle as the refill measure.

Which automatic transmission model is fitted to your vehicle.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should not be below the minimum line. I would suggest having the coolant level at the maximum line. Actually, I have my coolant above the maximum line when the engine is cold. When the engine is hot, the coolant level is still below the top of the coolant overflow bottle. Now filled with long life coolant i.e.8 years but I still regularly check the coolant level whenever I pop the bonnet to check the engine oil level which is usually most Saturday mornings.

I would do a few internet searches for a lube guide + manufacturer Following is for Penrite and Nulon https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/ As for additives, I use XADO which I get from eBay sellers. Best to do your own research and decide which additives, if any you want to use.

When overfilling the tank, I get about another 2 litres in. I mainly do this when travelling interstate so that 2 litres and more burns off fairly quickly thus reducing the possibility of any effects upon the charcoal canister in the evaporation fuel control system. Best not to be in a situation where 2 litres is the difference between driving or walking to the next petrol station. Keep plenty of fuel in the tank to help cool the petrol pump.