campbeam

Just watched this YouTube video about the co-development of the BMW Z4 and the Toyota Supra. Certainly preferred the tone of this video with a "factual/informed" approach to offset unsubstantiated statements/claims. Interesting the different manufacturer's approach and Toyota's engineers' emphasis upon durability and reliabilty. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jbyzmtgU_0

Yes, that article does provide clarification on a number of points. https://www.goauto.com.au/future-models/toyota/86/new-generation-toyota-86-confirmed-for-oz/2019-02-05/77401.html

Following search results on Gumtree and RedBook may be a good reference point. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-cars-vans-utes/fj60/k0c18320 https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/1984-toyota-landcruiser-sahara-manual-4x4/SPOT-ITM-278685/

Yes, following URL explains why. https://mycardoeswhat.org/safety-features/blind-spot-monitor/

Perhaps the attached document will be of interest to you. Personally, I am more into "stealth" mode these days; keep it ultra quiet and let the exhaust flow freely when you want that performance and acceleration. Remember quiet car, less police attention, maybe fewer tickets and less trips for machinery inspections to "prove" the exhaust is within the acceptable decibel range. Exhaust Back Pressure.doc

I was expecting the new Supra to have larger dimensions then the 86 but it appears that they are somewhat similar. At that time, this then gave me the thought about whether the 86 would be phased out particularly if in 2020, the Supra had the option of a 4 cylinder engine in Australia. I also understand that 86 sales have slowed in comparison to previous years Just today, I came across the following Autoblog https://www.autoblog.com/2019/01/29/toyota-86-and-subaru-brz-successor-canceled/?utm_source=quora&utm_medium=referral Interested to hear your crystal ball gazing thoughts. Personally, I would love to see Toyota Australia grow their No.1 position in Australia and derive more sales in the non-SUV market particularly at the expense of those manufacturers who need to rethink their product quality. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yq-sGQdzYGU

Always best to refer to the owner's manual for your vehicle as to what oil viscosity is recommended. You can also refer to the Lube Guides on the internet for the various known brands. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/PenriteAusMobile/#page5 I mainly look at the oil specification e.g. SAE SN. My personal preference is a full synthetic oil on special at an attractive price. Regular maintenance with good quality oils is essential for modern engines.

Do a Google search and you will find some YouTube videos on how to clean the idle air control valve plus also clean the throttle body.

Using a Google search, I located the following Topics on this Forum. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b&q=toyota+aurion+speakers https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/10410-zr6-speaker-upgrade/ https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/38597-best-speakers-for-the-front/ Just read a few posts so I am sure they will be relevant. After you pick up your new Camry V6, I hope that you will share and post a review and hopefully some quarterly updates. Is it worthwhile upgrading, what is worthwhile and what can be improved etc?

Bad ignition coils will throw a code. Worn out spark plugs put more strain on the ignition coils to perform so can potentially shorten their lifespan. At 230,000kms, it is handy to know the service history and what parts have been replaced [or not] . Suggest checking the condition of the spark plugs and if necessay, consider replacing them with Iridium plugs. I bought my 2006 Aurion [which has the 2GR-FE 3.5litre V6] at 165,000kms with a "suspect"service history. As I found out later, engine had lots of sludge due to either poor maintenance or oils used. Recently, at 205,000kms, I have replaced the spark plugs [Denso long life iridiums] and ignition coils[supposedly 15% better performance than OEM]. I have also bought the pre cat air/fuel sensors, fuel filter and fuel pump strainer "sock" but have yet to fit them. Next item on the to do list is changing the auto transmission fluid. I am "chasing"improved fuel economy and acceleration. I am also very much into preventative maintenance and have a tendency to over-service my vehicles.

Looks like you could be on the right track with the reluctor wheel/signal plate. https://www.engine-codes.com/p0335_toyota.html Following URL about the engine should be of interest. http://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=128 What is the vehicle milage and the service history? Have the spark plugs and ignition coils been changed> Check whether the transmission oil has been changed. Has the fuel filter ever been changed?

Guess You will have to try whatever is going to fit and be strong enough to take the tension. Steel drill bit sounds like a good option.

Following is an extract from one of my ready reference Aurion documents created from various contributors: Then you locate the automatic belt tensioner. Keeping a 5mm Allen key handy (or any other rod of solid metal that is 5mm), you place a 14mm spanner on the belt tensioner and apply pressure in the anti-clockwise direction. This is spring loaded and you will need a bit of pressure on the spanner. Once you have turned it, you will see that the hole at the bottom will line up with a gap in the engine block. You insert the Allen key here to lock it in place: Yes, the Allen key does lock the belt tensioner in place, so it is easy to remove the serpentine belt. Use the same procedure in reverse to remove the Allen key.

Some more photo reveals of the 2019 Supra. Detroit Motor Show starts very soon so expect more photos in the next 24 hours. https://www.drive.com.au/news/full-details-2019-toyota-gr-supra-120524.html?ffref=brisbanetimes&trackLink=SMH0

You may be interested in this latest 2 day special from SuperCheap Auto ends tomorrow, Tuesday 15.01.2019. Best to place an online order then pick up later. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-full-synthetic-hi-tech-fast-flowing-engine-oil---10w-40-6-litre/164751.html?cgid=2daydeals-29#segment=1&page=1 https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-semi-synthetic-hi-tech-fast-flowing-engine-oil---10w-30-6-litre/164745.html?cgid=2day-oil#segment=1&page=1 https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/2-day-deals?j=3977964&sfmc_sub=25368615&sub=205970513_SCA01_CRP&l=333_HTML&u=74532268&mid=6010680&jb=411&utm_source=email&utm_medium=email-subscriber&utm_campaign=SCA AU Monday Sale

I did the inner CV boot replacement on a Nissan Pulsar a few years ago. No easy way except to remove the drive shaft then remove the retaining circlip so that the CV joint and boot can be removed off the shaft. Fortunately, the alternative solution is to use a split CV boot. Following eBay listing is for reference purposes only. You will have to check with your local Toyota dealer because I am sure that a split CV boot kit is available for a Landcruiser and it may be suitable. http://www.philgilbertparts.com.au/genuine-toyota-landcruiser-split-boot-kit-hdj100-uzj100 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERSAL-SPLIT-CV-BOOT-KIT-DRIVE-SHAFT-STICKY-BOOT-FITS-VARIOUS-CARS/232280187693 The only check I know of is whether there are clicking noises when rotating the driveshaft. As an interim measure, I have used a large capacity syringe [no needle required] to pump replacement grease into the CV boot then tape it up to seal the boot.

What do you mean by looked at? It is a small vehicle the size of a Mazda 2, Hyundai I20, Toyota Yaris. Quite simply it is not going to meet your family needs as you have described them. https://www.tatatiago.com/assets/images/downloads/content/brochures/Brochure.pdf You have not specifically stated the details of your car so I am guessing that you are referring to a 2014 Corolla [Hatchback?] Based upon personal experience, I would recommend a Toyota Camry/Aurion sedan. Due to unexpected circumstances [twins], we were able to fit 3 car seats in the back. Boot was big enough to fit the twin pram and groceries. For interstate trips, we towed a heavy duty box trailer so plenty od room for the pram, nappies and suitcases etc

Just had a talk with a workmate who hails from the bush. He currently drives a Kluger but his preference is for rear wheel drive vehicles probably because he likes to drift the vehicle a little bit on dirt roads. My preference/driving experience is solidly front wheel drive and my bit of fun on urban roads is slow into corners then accelerate midway to "pull" the vehicle fast out. Also include spare parts availability, dealer network and Manufacturer's Culture/ethics and customer support. The last item is quite critical to me and why I will NOT buy VW Group and HOLDEN. Plenty of other brands are also not on my "but their product" list. Anyway whichever vehicle you decide to buy, definitely check the vehicle service history.

My 20 year old son has been driving a manual 2010 [?] Falcon XR6 for the past few years. Barra engine has a good reputation. He has spent some $$$ on various rear end related repairs, Buy what really gets your heart stirring and not strain your wallet on an ongoing basis. About 3 years ago, I wanted to buy a manual vehicle for my boys to learn to drive for their license. Ended up going to look at a 1994 Honda Prelude VTi-R. Took one look and wanted that vehicle even if I had to pay full asking price; instant lust and no regrets. My personal preference has been Honda and Toyota for RELIABILITY.

Different sensors. The P1346 code refers to the Variable Valve Timing sensor / Oil control valve. It is your time and effort but I would not be surprised that if you removed both sensors again that you will find that they need a clean, hence the mentioning of desludging.

Yes, I am using diesel fuel. Something that I have been doing for the past 40 years with all my different vehicles without any issue. I reckon that it cleans the engine just that little bit more so the new oil is not immediately contaminated with residue old oil. Any diesel fuel residue should get vaporised and exit the engine via the PCV then out the exhaust. Best desludging results i[n last 3 years] was an oil and filter change with 5W-30 full synthetic engine oil then an interstate road trip of about 5,000 kms. Oil was totally black when I changed it upon returning home. Previously, I had been using 10W-40 mineral engine oil and semi-synthetic engine oil which I had bought on special. Hopefully the following YouTube video is applicable then no need to remove the sump, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H00QqPud6p8

Following URL has diagrams of your Hilux suspension. https://superpro.com.au/tradeview/index.php?view=parts_vehicleapplication&cid=999501274 I would recommend going and talking to Fulcrum Suspension. Have a read of the following URL. The following comment appears to be worth noting: In reality though you need to remember that it is a ute so the rear is designed to carry a significant load variance so will be stiff when lightly loaded. The most effective (not cost effective) outcome would be to install a set of aftermarket 'comfort leaf packs' with nicer shocks https://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=22071

Check your owner;s manual and I suspect that you will find that your ZR6 is fitted with HID Xenon Headlights. LED bulbs should only be fitted to LED Headlights. Quite possibly, you should have considered buying the following or similar https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4300K-Heavy-Duty-D4S-D4R-OEM-HID-Xenon-Bulb-Lexus-Honda-Mazda-Subaru-Toyota/151683975943?hash=item235111cb07%3Ag%3AHQAAAOSw5tNcL3Y7&fits=Year%3A2008|Model%3AAurion|Make%3AToyota

Modern engines can be prone to engine sludge. Depending upon how well they have been serviced with good quality oils and regular filter changes, it should not be an issue. When I do an oil and filter change, I warm the engine then drop the oil. Depending upon the engine oil capacity, I then add 4-5 litres of diesel then idle the engine [no hard revving] for 5-10 minutes. Let the engine cool then remove the oil filter and drain the diesel oil mixture. Fit the new oil filter and drain plug then add new engine oil. My personal preference is definitely a full synthetic oil which has extra additives for desludging the engine. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/ https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/ShellAU/?if=1

I don't know what your low oil level light but presumably it is similar to the oil pressure with a wavy line underneath. A good day trip with full synthetic oil will help to de-sludge the engine. Finally remembered to ask my workmate who drives a Kluger about the slight vibration in the steering wheel under hard braking. At a prior service the brake rotors and brake pads were replaced. After being back a few times, they have very recently replaced the brake pads. He did not know what brand parts were used but I have my doubts. Might be a good idea to check the condition of the rotors and brake pads.