campbeam

Rims and tyres should fit ok. ATX Standard tyre size is 215/60/16. The Sportivo likely has 215/55/17. About 8.5% difference in the tyre wall profile. https://tiresize.com/comparison/ Tyre pressure is also going to influence the ride. ATX Recommended tyre pressure [less than 4 occupants] is 230 or 240 kpa; 33-35 psi. I usually have 38psi but the struts are well worn. https://www.puretyre.co.uk/tyre-information/psi-to-bar-conversion-chart/

You should easily get more than 10kms/litre on the open highway. Aurion has a 70 litre tank and the fuel warning light comes on with about 15 litres remaining. Plan upon refuelling at either Moree or Narrabri if going via the Newell Highway.

Something that I do is to leave the windows down a little bit. I am hoping that this will help to dissipate some of the heat build up in the cabin.

I have previously bought plastic clips similar to these on eBay. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20pcs-8-10-mm-Plastic-Retainer-Bumper-Rivet-Trim-Clips-For-Honda-Accord-Civic/232995272455?fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item363f99b707:g:cncAAOSwlkpb4Thb

Helps if you mention the specific OBD-II error code to get the correct information. Following URL is a guess. https://www.autoblog.com/2016/03/30/p0030-obd-ii-trouble-code-ho2s-heater-control-circuit-bank-1-s/

Past experience. One weekday evening, I saw a brief appearance of the oil warning light. Saturday morning, I checked the dipstick, no oil and no leak under the vehicle. Bit of a mystery so I refilled the engine then drove 15kms. Arrived at the girlfriend's place to find oil streaming out on the driver's side of the engine. After a bit of investigation, confirmed that it was a pinhole leak in the rubber hose mid section of the VVTi line. Fortunately, I had previously read about this issue and had already bought the replacement oil line. Spent a very frustrating weekend replacing it. Not exactly keen to repeat that experience.

Definitely consider changing the ATF. If you look hard in the owner's manual then it is recommended to change the ATF at 70K if driving in extreme conditions. Sounds ok until you realise that everyday motoring is extreme according to the manufacturer. I have a 2008/9 Aurion which has 109K on the odometer. Previous thinking was to leave it be until 160K but I have since changed my mind. It will get a ATF fluid change before going back on the road. https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/blog/when-do-you-need-to-change-your-transmission-fluid/

Given that it is a Sportivo, expect that it would have been driven harder than usual. How often tyres and brake pads have been changed is an indicator. Why does it have new rims? I would be looking at the service history particularly for regular oil changes. When were the struts last replaced? Has the water pump needed to be replaced? Has the alternator been replaced? When was the automatic transmission last serviced and fluid changed? If the transmission has never been serviced, then be prepared to have to replace it. I would be looking at the rear VVTi oil line to see whether it has been upgraded to a full metal line. If it still has the original mid rubber section, then plan upon having to replace it; estimated cost $500.

The GE Megalight Ultra 130 headlight bulb on the passenger side died this Saturday 15.02.2020. So ended up getting 2 years lifespan. Replaced it with a used Osram bulb from a spare foglight so interested to see the difference in light performance this evening. Also interested to see how much longer the other GE Megalight Ultra 130 headlight bulb on the driver's side lasts.

When refilling the petrol tank, you are supposed to stop after the 1st click. I have overfilled the tank and eventually got a fuel smell. I stopped overfilling the tank and after a few weeks, the petrol smell went away. Otherwise, I would be looking at possibly having to replace the charcoal canister. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/evaporative-emission-control-system1.htm

On average, I am doing an oil filter and oil change every 3 months. I buy my oil when on special and select mainly by oil specifications ILSAC GF-5 and API SN then known brands and oil viscosity. Next Preference is for a full synthetic and then a semi-synthetic.

Suggest that you have a read of the following URLs. https://www.mechanic.com.au/news/timing-chains-don-t-actually-stretch https://www.engine-codes.com/p0015_toyota.html Your mechanic will be able to confirm whether an oscilloscope was used to check cam and crankshaft sensor correlation. As an interim measure, I suggest an oil change with quality oil. If the timing chain has definitely worn, then replace it. Timing chains should last the lifetime of the engine assuming that it has regular oil changes with a quality oil. I am expecting about 400,000kms for the 2GR-FE based upon a conversation I had with someone who used to work at a Toyota dealership. Because I do a lot of short distance urban driving, I am now changing my oil every 3000kms to prevent oil sludge build up.

This URL mentions that the 1NZ-FE engine was redesigned in 2003 due to the introduction of Euro IV emissions regulations. https://www.engine-specs.net/toyota/1nz-fe.html

My experience is with the 3.5litre V6 petrol engine 2GR-FE fitted to the Aurion. White smoke on start up is mainly due to sludge build up in oil drainage vents of the front valve cover resulting in the oil not draining quickly enough so oil vapor is sucked up via the PCV valve into the intake manifold. Easy way to check is to temporarily disconnect the PCV valve from the valve cover for a few days. If there is no more white smoke on start up after driving a day or so, then the valve cover and/or the PCV valve will most likely need to be cleaned or replaced. If there is no change and still white smoke on start up, then starting to look like it could be worn valve stem seals.

No direct experience with your specific issue. Just thinking that it might be worthwhile to consider the outer cv joint on the left drive shaft as a potential possible cause. I have a preference/ tendency not to accelerate hard until the wheels are straight ahead to minimise the pressure on the cv joints. Many years ago, I test drove a fwd vehicle doing a fast U turn. Front left drive shaft became quite noisy after that turn so we returned the vehicle back to the wholesale yard and disappeared quickly. Good learning experience not to do that to your own vehicles.

Just hearsay but nothing like a good guard dog as an effective deterrent. Otherwise, plenty of lighting with motion detectors and cameras that cannot be easily interfered with or disabled.

Look at your Warranty and Service Book for details of the 150,000 km or 120 Month service. This service involves the following replacements: engine oil and filter; engine coolant; in-tank fuel filter and brake fluid.

In your situation, I would be inclined to reset the ECU using the battery method mainly because I am DIY and not keen to poart with $$$ at a dealership. Recently, I have had the battery disconnected more than 30 minutes, hence the ECU would have reset but did not know about the extra steps to reset the idling as per the following YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKABYa-w0g8

Welcome. You are in the right Forum for some good advice. I revel in the sleeper performance of the Aurion and prefer to keep a stock standard look. Prefer the police attention to be on the show off Holdens, Fords and hot hatches etc. I am very much into preventative maintenance and have a past tendency to over-service my Aurion ATX. The 2GR-FE engine is known to be prone to oil sludge so regular oil changes with qualiy oils are essential. Also pay attention to servicing the auto transmission and changing the ATF Best mod I have found is to have brand new known brand tyres and brake pads. Upgrading the rear sway bar is known to improve the handling and reduce body sway.

Never had that experience. Always buy best quality well known brand tyres.

If you have an owners manual look at Fuse Locations in the Index. It should be behind the glove box [on the passenger side] behind a flat unmarked plastic cover. Most likely you will have to remove the glovebox lid for easier access. Attached video is for a USA Camry just to give you an idea of the location area. Expect the cover to be just a flat plastic rectangle clip on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ7RHFTBj98

Located Online Auto Parts and the same picture on eBay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Front-Rear-Gas-Strut-Shock-Absorbers-suits-Camry-ACV36R-MCV36R-2002-06-Sedan/401435796974?fits=Model%3ACamry&hash=item5d777025ee:g:yhIAAOSwyhVdyiEs

This topic has been covered in earlier threads. You should be able to search this Forum. I have had better results doing a Google search with results for this Forum. Members have posted their various results. Changing viscosity of oil either higher or lower can produce a good outcome. It varies upon the condition of the engine. What works for one engine may not produce the same desired outcome in another. Sometimes a matter of trial and error. If ever I remove the valve cover, I will take the time to check the VVTi controller particularly that the bolts are nice and tightened.

Agree with these thoughts. Not enough transmission fluid is going to cause problems. Exactly why I spent so much time learning how to get the fluid level correct for this sealed type transmission.

Best to check Qld Transport website about minimum vehicle ground clearance. Unofficial guide would be the height of a Coke can. Remember noticing a motorcycle cop pulling over a lowered Holden ute and getting a measuring guide from the saddles of his motorbike. Just goes to show that they do have the means to readily check lowered vehicles.