campbeam

I am just guessing but it sounds like fuel pump issue. If it is displaying a check engine light, then a good starting point is to use an OBD scanner to identify the error code.

Looks like you are upping the protection for the family in these "interesting" times. For those that are interested in buying this cabin filter - Pre-filter with anti-bacterial agent for protection against mould and diseases - Activated carbon barrier to neutralise pollution and odours - Electrostatically charged filter media that filters out dust, pollutants & dirt down to 2.5 microns - Lasting cabin filtration https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ryco-Cabin-Air-Pollen-Filter-Microshield-RCA164MS-fits-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-GSV/152735961601?hash=item238fc5d201:g:DxAAAOSw3z5Z204A

I am always researching and updating my reference material. Currently got Michelin Primacy 4 [New Generation 2018/9] on my short list but not expecting to be replacing tyres anytime in the near future. Getting back on track with this thread, I am keen to find out how well your latest tool purchase performs in removing the housing. I might even be tempted to buy one even though I have manage without so far.

Only way to maintain reliabilty is plenty of maintenance and regular checking under the bonnet particularly when you have an older vehicle. Oil is cheap when an engine failure or major repairs can mean scrapping your vehicle.

I had this happen at a budget tyre centre. I saw the late arriving knicklehead [supposed tyre mechanic] up the torque on the rattle gun then retighten the wheel nuts. At the time I did not know enough to have a big temper tantrum when the car was squealing as I drove it off the ramps. My feeble protests at the time were waved aside. Many kms later when I got back to the girlfriend's place, I had a hard time loosening the wheel nuts. Squealing noise went away when the nuts were properly torqued to specification. Apparently overtorquing of wheel nuts can distort the wheel hubs to cause this squealing noise. A few hard earned lessons learnt that day and those budget priced China brand GOODRIDE tyres with 90% tread have since been replaced never to return. Dumb penny pinching decision at that time. Only put new quality known brand tyres on your vehicle.

I use diesel when doing the engine flush. I did go to AutoBarn on Sunday and got their special of $9.99 for Castrol 20W-50 [limit of 2 per customer] Now that oil I could use as a flushing oil or in the 4 stroke mower. Will add that to the list of things to do at home this Easter.

You would think so but not from what I have read of someone's experience at a fast oil change place in the USA. Sometimes I get the housing to spin on nice and smoothly first time but it usually takes a few attempts by hand to get it seated just right. I can just imagine what can happen if it just shoved up and let loose with a rattle gun. Just another reason why I am DIY and take so much longer to do things.

Reminds me of being under the Holden watching my Dad greasing the ball joints. Also had a laugh noticing that long breaker bar in his hands. Explains how Dad was so easily able to get in this current dilemma. Hopefully you showed which direction to undo when you are working upside down under the car. I am always using a ratchet driver to verify that I will be loosening, not tightening. Pays to have a backup plan so just in case you have cross-threaded the housing, nice to know there are replacements readily available. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ryco-Oil-Filter-Cap-RFA202-fits-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-GSV40R-3-5-GSV50R-3-5/153824905169?hash=item23d0adc7d1:g:s9IAAOSwtN9ePb0o

Good idea. I have been thinking about how I was going to use it. Internet searches have been saying ok to mix with the same brand of oil i.e. Nulon.

As an update, I did previously clean and re-gap the spark plugs. MAF sensor and spark plugs have now been delivered; air filters have yet to be received. MAF sensor got fitted Saturday morning and Yaris was back to normal. After a test drive and further driving this morning, decided not necessary to replace spark plugs until say Xmas.

After reading the following URLs, I am quite happy with the using a higher viscosity oil for engine wear protection especially in extreme driving conditions. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a53/what-oil-does-my-car-take/

I would be more inclined to check/replace the PCV valve and do an oil and filter change using a quality full synthetic oil 5W-40 or 10W-40. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/2001-toyota-echo-burning-too-much-oil.351706/

I estimate about 500ml. Oil was in good condition [only a few months old] so I reused it. After filling up the housing with the cartridge in position, there was about 100ml left in the drain pan so it went back into the engine.

I have just put the car up on ramps and used a cloth strap wrench to loosen the oil filter housing. Not a valid test for your situation because my housing came undone just using hands. Checked the filter cartridge for sludge particles then refitted. There is lots of rotational clearance especially if you remove the plastic under engine cover. I also have used this tool on the spin on filters e.g Z386 The small size does fit onto the bottom of the housing. A larger size in combination with the removal tools will reduce the risk of damaging the housing. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-oil-filter-wrench-cam-action-small/13035.html

You may need to resort to a large shifter spanner. Maybe use in combination with those already damaged removal tools. https://www.google.com.au/shopping/product/1350841404733803604?lsf=seller:100794174,store:17582675787785968941&prds=oid:9531139694404591514&q=large+shifter+spanner&hl=en&ei=VfGHXqHsFNOK4-EPnsqToAw&lsft=gclid:CjwKCAjwvZv0BRA8EiwAD9T2VZ_SbJwT-ENE_qO6GVBytqoMomB0dF_W-Mj9BXuRfydD9L1M964QqRoCXTsQAvD_BwE,gclsrc:aw.ds

I will have to check whether there is enough access for a cloth strap wrench to get around the filter housing. https://www.apexinds.com/blog/types-oil-filter-removal-tools/

I mainly buy my engine oil on special at SuperCheap. Main criteria is the viscosity 5W/10W-30/40 and oil specification e.g. ILSAC GF-5. Penrite, Nulon and GulfWestern being Australian are my preferences. http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/about-us/

This full synthetic Nulon engine oil 0W-16 is a Clearance sale item at SuperCheap. Not recommended for my Aurion but it should be ok mixed or as a top up with other engine oil. Just bought 2 this morning which was all of their floor stock at that store. If I want more, I will have to drive further afield. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-hybrid-and-fuel-conserving-engine-oil---0w-16-5-litre/540632.html?cgid=SCA01070403#pmin=20.00&pmax=50.00&sz=60&start=17

I buy my filters in bulk on eBay and I occassionally change the filter cartridge before the oil change is required. Because of accumulated oil sludge in the engine, I have been regularly checking and cleaning the oil filter cartridge. Not doing it as often as before. Quality oils and regular oil changes are a given. I do an oil and filter changes more regularly than most because my driving is mainly short distance. Also because I am DIY with a big stash of oil [bought on special] and filter cartridges, I can change my oil more often. It would be a different story if I was having to pay someone else.

You may want to give some thoughts as to how you are foing to record your observations. I check my oil level weekly so I can readily notice the oil on the dipstick changing from being clear to a slightly golden colour. Nothing like a series of photos to substantiate your observations.

A full synthetic oil is definitely the way to go especially for longer interval oil changes. Just happened to be looking at the electronic version of the service manual and the recommendation is 5W-30 for performance and fuel economy. However, I am sure that the Australian owners manual has a number of different oil viscosity ranges. I do recall reading about a higher oil viscosity for engine wear protection. I have recently looked at some YouTube videos comparing oils with the same viscosity and their flow rate. Appears that the different additive package enables a better flow rate when I was expecting the flow rate to be the same for oils with the same viscosity. All food for thought. Hopefully later in the year, when I am able to go for my annual road trip Brisbane to Wagga Wagga, travelling on the highway with outside temperature of 35C plus and the air-conditioning on max. I will probably have 10W-40 oil in the engine. However, I was thinking about using 5W-30 for the next oil change but winter has yet to arrive in Brisbane.

Explains why the Police appear to target the younger drivers to re-educate them into driving sensibly to stay alive. Took the experience of 2 accidents in a row for me to adopt a defensive driving attitude. Aggressive driving of which tailgating is a sign will eventually result in a smashed up vehicle. Quite happy to get out of their way so they can rush off for their destiny with KARMA. After they come to grief, I just keep driving safely to my destination.

There is a similar thread on the USA ToyotaNation Forum. One post that caught my attention included a diagram of how the tailgater is so close that they cannot see the road ahead. Suggestion involved an upcoming bend in the road and to make a last second steering to go around the bend. The tailgater then has to do some drastic steering to avoid going off the road. Sounds very deliberate but it does highlight how the driver being tailgated could get distracted so not watching the road ahead then have to do some last minute steering themselves. This is the reason why I ignore tailgaters.

Not yet. At the time, I did not know how to the fluid level check procedure and to locate the return hose. I dropped the transmission pan and changed the filter/strainer. Lots of frustrating fun with that bolt. SInce then I have done a fluid changes of the ATF in the transmission pan. Now a annual task in keeping with my over servicing regime. Did some calculations in an excel spreadsheet and worked out that 6 fluid flushes over an extended period of time would end up giving the same result as a full flush i.e. 100% new fluid. I am planning upon dropping and cleaning the transmission pan on my project Aurion then doing a full flush. Also making a note of that Toyota Nation URL posted by AurionX2 for future reference.

Just did a quick internet search. Not sure if it is in the following URL but you could potentially have a blocked drainage pipe. Water in the footwell is a sign of this. This makes sense because after the A/C has been running and you park the vehicle, there usually is a pool of water under the vehicle https://macsworldwide.wordpress.com/2010/07/12/the-evaporator-is-an-important-part-of-your-car%E2%80%99s-ac-system/