campbeam

Attached my internet based search documents from when I was looking at getting a towbar for my 2006 Aurion ATX. Ended up getting another Aurion with a towbar already fitted so no direct personal experience of doing these fitting instructions. Towbar Wiring Instructions PZQ61-33132-42-52_-_PZQ61-33131-41-51FI_-_Camry-Aurion_TWH_-_Issue_4_-_A5_booklet_111597_993.pdf Aurion_Towbar_Fitting_Instructions.pdf.PdfCompressor-894150.pdf Aurion TOWBAR.doc

Based upon the information provided, my best guess is that the engine is sludged up due to inadequate servicing. The new oil with its detergent additives may have loosened and dissolved a fair bit of this sludge. I would be looking at whether the oil is badly contaminated i.e. dark black colour. Something else I have done is to use a thick diameter plastic straw and probe around inside the valve cover to estimate how badly sludged up the engine is. After doing the above, I would then drop the oil pan and checking/cleaning the oil pickup screen. If the engine is badly sludged up, definitely recommend removing the valve covers and cleaning the valve train and valve covers. Next step would be reassemble then run [idle only] the engine with about 5 litres of diesel for about 5-10 minutes. Repeat if necessary. Last step is a new oil filter and new oil then monitor. Engine sludge.doc

Last weekend, the local Repco store did not have any stock of the Penrite LV ATF. Just received an email from SuperCheap offering 25% discount for over $100 online orders ending Wednesday 16th May @ 7PM. Discount code is MAYHEM. Immediately placed an order which included qty 2 of Penrite LV ATF 4 litre with a discount price of $67.48 and local store pick up.

Saving fuel is essentially all about efficiency. It starts with having a well maintained regularly serviced vehicle. Consider the quality of engine oil and transmission/differential oils. Ensure brakes and drive shafts/CV joints are well maintained so the wheels can rotate freely. Next look at the driving style. Smooth acceleration rather than hard acceleration. Drive safe and smart, avoiding the teenage idiots racing and braking hard destroying the life of their vehicles.I also use what I refer to as roadcraft. Watch the traffic flow and anticipate what is going to happen. Ease off on the accelerator to reduce need for braking. Brake early so you do not need to come to a complete stop. On the open highway, I try to use overtaking lanes to get past slower vehicles or sometimes it is just a matter of being patient and not overtaking. I achieved my best fuel economy figures driving with cruise control set at 100kph on highway across absolutely flat terrain with no traffic in front of me. I also followed a slower vehicle for a few kms which also stopped at the next town where I refuelled. From memory, it worked out to be 7.1 litres per 100 kms so quite pleased for a 2006 3.5litre V6.

What is the error code? I understand that the 2 pre-cat sensors are air/fuel ratio sensors and the 2 post cat sensors are O2 sensors. I have removed and cleaned only the front air/fuel ratio sensor and both of the post-cat O2 sensors. The other air/fuel pre-cat sensor [located at the back near the firewall] is tucked away out of sight so I have not yet touched it or located the electrcal connector. Personally, I would be inclined to clean the sensors first then replace them if the check engine still stays on. I bought the following 3 piece socket set on eBay which was useful plus I also ended up using a 24mm ring spanner as well. A tip I picked up from internet searches was to use brake fluid to loosen the sensor if WD40 does not work. Remember to use sparingly some anti-seize on the sensor threads when retightening. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Pc-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket-Wrench-O2-Tool-Set-Auto/291411775618?hash=item43d97ed082:g:Uk8AAOSwhQhY1hoa

I was thinking a fuel supply issue like a clogged up fuel filter.

Just confirms It is not what you have but how you use it. Interesting times ahead in the car industry. Because I am a late adopter of new technology etc, I will be sticking with a tried and proven product i.e. Toyota Camry

Your last post reminded me that there is an electric overdrive button on my 1998 4cyl auto Camry CSX. Unsure whether your vehicle would have the same 4 speed auto transmission. If your auto is not going into overdrive, then this is going to impact the engine revs and fuel economy. If applicable, I would be checking the connections for the electric overdrive.

Following URL comparing the Toyota and Tesla Production Systems also highlights quality and total cost of ownership. I previously mentioned price and reliability. I also want a totally reliable vehicle that is available to drive 99.9% and servicing [including lifetime and replacement of parts] is low cost. https://seekingalpha.com/article/4172190-tesla-betting-toyota-bad-idea?utm_source=quora&utm_medium=referral

I would also have a look at the XV20 Vienta model. I think that they all had a 6 cylinder engine. http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=guide&make=Toyota&model=Camry&gen=885 http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=guide&make=Toyota&model=Vienta&gen=921&pno=0 https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/results?sort=Published&s=0&l=15&evnt=refinement&q=((((Service%3D[Redbook]%26RecordType%3D[Car])%26CountryCode%3D[AU])%26(Make%3D[Toyota]%26Model%3D[Camry]))%26YearRange%3Drange[1998..2001])

Read this and agreed with the caveat that regular basic maintenance i.e. oil and fluid changes should to be done. Another reason for buying a Camry was on the shelf ready availability of spare parts at SuperCheap, AutoBarn etc particularly compared to a Honda Accord.

We bought the 1998 Camry CSX auto rather than the CSi base model. The unexpected replacement items were the lower control arms and the rear sway bar bushings for a roadworthy. I ended up speaking with the mechanic and he said that he had noted the vehicle condition from how well the doors closed. Engine timing belt needs to be replaced say every 100,000 kms. Look for a vehicle that has been well serviced. I regularly changed the engine oil every 5,000 kms. Auto transmission was fully flushed to replace the ATF. Unexpected feature is that the differential is separate not incorporated into the auto transmission. Something I missed for quite some time so the fluid was quite black when finally replaced. Struts should have been replaced. If older than 5 years, plan upon having to replace them. My teenage sons comment about the poor performance presumably comparing to a 2010 Camry. I did spoil them by getting a manual Honda Prelude [sold before the timing belt had to be replaced] so they could obtain their manual driver's license. I found it to be ok for urban driving but lacking in overtaking ability on the highway. A main reason why I wanted a V6 Camry and resulted in an impromptu buy of my 2006 Aurion on eBay. Glad I made the effort to inspect the vehicle at the nearby wholesale dealer and raised my bid to win.

This URL shows how to change the headlight bulb. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1JHnW8Ruek When I changed my bulbs, I wore gloves to keep my fingers off the glass of the bulb.

Looks good as is. Possibly bonnet protector if needed. LED light bar if you are doing a bit of country road driving at night.

What you have demonstrated is your application of certain fuel saving driving techniques is producing results. Pressing a button is just giving you visual feedback. Further feedback is how deep you have to dig into your wallet when you refuel. Driving sensibly and smoothly has its own rewards and benefits. Friday night's sleep got interrupted by a male P plate driver writing off his mother's commodore and neighbour's work van parked in his driveway. Further feedback to drive safe and to be alert for those Keep Left traffic signs and islands in the middle of the road.

I assume that you are considering replacing/upgrading your headlights instead of the bulbs. Noticed this LED headlight replacement on eBay which may be a potential fit for your Hilux. Something best confirmed with the eBay seller. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/7x5-LED-Square-H4-Headlight-Hi-Lo-Sealed-Beam-W-DRL-For-Jeep-Wrangler-TOYOTA/292142775424?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3De88f1979870847b29df16b998710c2fd%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D171362960949%26itm%3D292142775424&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2Pcs-7x5-LED-Square-H4-Headlight-Hi-Lo-Sealed-Beam-w-DRL-for-Jeep-Wrangler-AU/232712020389?hash=item362eb7a1a5:g:paAAAOSwgKBaucMB

I was more thinking definitely a replacement. Big question is whether it needs to be replaced again. With a non-interference type engine, if the belt breaks then the piston and valves are not going to collide. With an interference type engine, you are running a known risk of engine damage [expensive repair bill] when the belt fails. A minimal risk approach would be to replace both the timing belt and the water pump in the very short term. A riskier approach would be to wait for when the water pump needs to be replaced then replace both.

Suggest that you do a Forum search with the term "SD card" or other. Following is one search result https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/55492-toyota-corolla-asscent-radio-locked/?tab=comments#comment-566847

Finally fitted the right length LED bulbs. These ones with a 34mm length just fitted as parking lights. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-T10-501-194-W5W-5630-LED-SMD-Car-HID-Canbus-Error-Free-Wedge-Light-Lamp-Bulb-/232705017248?hash=item362e4cc5a0 Light is a bright white colour which is what I wanted instead of the original yellow looking [warm white] colour from the halogen bulbs.

You could try greasing the sealed bearings on the idler pulley/s instead of replacing them. Following YouTube video shows how to do it. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=youtube+lubricate+sealed+bearings&&view=detail&mid=0C2A9B5B5761EA2C9A1A0C2A9B5B5761EA2C9A1A&&FORM=VDRVRV

For various reasons, I am not a great fan of self-driving vehicles. Perhaps self-fulfilling bias, the recent UBER incident with a pedestrian death highlighted various flaws when rushing testing, cost-cutting and pushing a timeline. Those who have been following the various reports about this UBER incident will know what I am referring to. I found it interesting that in response, Toyota immediately stopped testing. I found the following URL somewhat reassuring about the testing approach used by Toyota and particularly the high costs involved for autonomous driving systems. https://phys.org/news/2018-04-toyota-plano-based-ceo-self-driving-cars.html?utm_source=quora

I understand that the VIN and engine number usually match unless the engine has been replaced. This URL for RedBook shows the VIN series in the Overview section https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/1997-toyota-hilux-manual-dual-cab/SPOT-ITM-277527/ If required, select another vehicle in the Hilux range.

I would be looking at cleaning the IAC [idle air control valve] particularly as you have mentioned carbon buildup inside the throttle body. This is one YouTube video on the topic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BI07ACbjzJQ

The following URL highlights when selecting engine oil to not only consider the viscosity but also the API Service Rating; highest current rating is SN. https://www.quora.com/What-happens-if-you-use-the-wrong-oil-in-your-car When buying oil, I prefer either the GF-5 or SN for the additional oil sludge protection. Engine Oil URLs and GR4 GR5 Performance Comparison.doc

Have a look at this URL. A video is included in one of the posts. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/156-avalon-3rd-generation-2005-2012/356546-drain-coolant-2gr-fe-how.html This URL I have in my ready reference material. http://carspecmn.com/toyota-and-lexus-3-5l-v6-2gr-fe-coolant-bleeding-trick/ To date, I have only removed the coolant overflow tank, given it a thorough clean then replaced the coolant. I have done this annually a few times but next time planning upon draining the radiator. Probably will not worry about undoing the engine drain plugs unless they can be easily accessed.