campbeam

Just spotted this article about pricing for the 2018 Camry. http://www.news.com.au/technology/innovation/motoring/new-toyota-camry-from-japan-is-up-to-10000-more-than-the-australianmade-model/news-story/752838cdc873d255c63c7b15e1c30ca6 Certainly got a few thoughts about this pricing strategy especially as I have been taking a keen interest in Hyundai/Kia and Mazda models for comparative purposes. Time will tell how much market share is lost or gained.

I have recently been to AUZ Auto Wreckers at 1462-1466 Ipswich Road Rocklea. Their phone number is 07 3148 9534 They appear to mainly have Japanese vehicles so best to give them a call to save a wasted trip. Suggest that you check out Gumtree https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/carindale/wrecking/repost-wrecking-2007-model-toyota-corolla/1150268995 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/rocklea/wrecking/wrecking-toyota-corolla-2010/1164312479 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/rothwell/wrecking/wrecking-toyota-corolla-zze122/1163407081

On sale at Repco commencing 23.11.2017 https://www.lasoo.com.au/offer/auto-wash-wax-polishing-supplies-equipment/303-protectants-cleaners/5cs2c62og.html?source=category&categories.lvl2=Automotive+Care+%26+Cleaning->lvl2Auto+Wash%2C+Wax%2C+Polishing+Supplies+%26+Equipment&level=2&term=303&pageopt=auto-wash-wax-polishing-supplies-equipment Guess I will have to remember to go to Repco this Saturday.

The rear VVTi oil line is not covered by Toyota Australia. I believe that back in 2009 or so there was a limited period "customer service replacement"[not a recall] to either replace the rubber hose mid-section with an upgraded specification rubber hose or replace with the full metal line. DJKOR did a very useful tutorial on replacing this rear VVTi oil line. I found it to be a very frustrating task to do because of the limited space and having to remove the power steering pump to access the lower bolt for the oil line. You will definitely need a good 10mm or 12mm ring spanner with a decent amount of offset to be able to remove the oil line cover on the side of the engine.

If you got some warranty from the dealer, then take it back to get this problem fixed. The car should be running smoothly; it is not an age thing. More likely to be overdue service items particularly the fuel filter and spark plugs. If you bought the vehicle wholesale on an "as is where is" basis, then I would be giving the vehicle a thorough servicing.

Removed and cleaned the filter material. It used to be white but now a slight grey colour. Airflow appears to be a lot better now. I decided to buy that cheap AliExpress filter reasoning that I can replace them about every 12 months or so. Will let you know my opinion on these filters when I get them.

I guess you meant Jerky i.e. not running/driving smoothly and this is happening after you have driven 5 to 20 kilometres. Has the fuel filter ever been replaced? When was the last time that the spark plugs replaced? I notice that you have a tag of transmission on this post. Why? When was the last time that the transmission fluid replaced?

From what I have read it comes down to fuel quality particularly sulfur content. Apparently, Australian fuel is a poorer standard compared to EU standards. Also because of different octane measurements/standards, 87 octane fuel in USA is about the equivalent of 91 RON here in Australia.

Good idea to also check that the battery terminals are tightly fastened to the battery posts. Clean away away corrosion to ensure that there is a good connection and also wipe down the top of the battery.

Many months ago, I replaced the cabin air filter [which badly needed replacing] with this material https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Foam-Biochemical-Cotton-Pad-Mat-Media-Filter-for-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-S11/332309870196?epid=23005677099&hash=item4d5f363674:g:U64AAOSwfsFZbsXd Probably time this weekend to check/clean this filter material and also check how much leaf litter has accumulated in the air duct.

Next step is to ring a suspension shop and get them to do the wheel alignment.

Actually, I am waiting for the owner to confirm that it is actually a 2GR-FE engine and their 5 litre oil estimate was correct. Best to deal with facts, not assumptions or mistaken beliefs. 5 could have been misinterpreted as 6 so that the actual build date is in 2005 not 2006.

3rd Generation built from 2006 on has the 2GR-FE engine. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Previa

Most times, it pays to confirm basic assumptions. In this case, is the engine actually a 3.5L 2GR-FE V6 engine instead of the 3.0L 1MZ-FE V6 or another replacement engine? A different engine would explain the smaller than expected oil capacity. Something else to consider is whether you have made a mistake in determining the oil capacity. Personally, I have bought different brands of oil on special so the container capacities vary i.e. 4L, 5L and 5.5L. Last oil change was to put in one full 5L container then approximately add another 1 litre. Recently, I made a mistake in reading the vernier caliper when measuring the thickness of the brake rotors. I was questioning why the new rotors were only approx. 8.5mm instead of the expected 10mm thickness. Took a while to finally realise my mistake.

Donor vehicle was a red 2007 Aurion Sportivo. Chromed door handle was a perfect fit to my 2006 Aurion ATX which I now prefer to the original black plastic. Thinking about going back for the passenger door handle as a standby spare.

Do not know too much about the fuel pump assembly except that the fuel in the tank is supposed to help cool the fuel pump. This is the main reason why it is not a good idea to be driving around too much on an empty tank. Would this have been a contributing factor or is there another explanation for this melted electrical connection?

Has anyone else had a broken interior door opening handle? This is the first time for me in many years. Happened one late Saturday night which was not that cold. All that I can think of is that I was distracted talking to the girlfriend, fully opened the handle and it very easily and quickly snapped off. As a quick fix, I tried using superglue [didn't work at all] then using araldite which only lasted a few uses. I was trying to avoid having to remove the door trim which I had not done before. Prices on eBay for a replacement pair from the USA were not attractive so I persevered with a broken handle for a few weeks. I was going to re-glue the door handle but another part of the plastic moulding had broken off. Finally, I did the rounds of the local wreckers and got one for $20. One of the advantages of going to wreckers and removing the part is that you can practice/learn how to do it. Discovered that I had to remove the interior door trim [learnt quickly] instead of just one screw. In hindsight, I should have done a Forum search. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/52560-door-garnish-removal/?tab=comments#comment-555353 Fitting the replacement part is a quick 10 minute job which I had to redo as the window rubber section had to be reseated. Rather than throw away the broken door handle, I have re-araldited the broken pieces together plus also filled the hollow section with araldite [Selleys Ultra Clear ] to re-inforce it. Learning from all of this is that there was not a quick fix solution without removing the door handle.

Essentially a cost benefits analysis. Major reason why I have not yet upgraded my halogen headlight bulbs to higher performance ones.

When I do an oil change, initially I remove the oil filter cartridge housing and check the filter cartridge for the amount of oil sludge. Then, I undo the sump plug and let it drain for about 5-10 minutes until there is only an occasional drop. While waiting, you can replace the filter cartridge and cartridge housing. Jacking up the side of the car also helps to drain that bit of oil sitting at the bottom of the sump. My engine usually takes 6 litres then about a week later, I recheck oil level and top up, if required.

If you are still looking, just noticed this eBay listing. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dashboard-Cover-Dashmat-Dash-Mat-For-Toyota-Camry-Aurion-2007-2011-Not-Hybrid/263304514315?hash=item3d4e2c0b0b:g:LV8AAOSwxKBaARiI

Even if the wheel size did fit, I would be hesitant about going to a wider tyre for your model Camry. I fitted 205/65/15 to my 1998 4 cylinder Camry. All was quite OK in the dry until I had to hit the brakes hard at 80kph on wet highway and aquaplaned [despite having good tyres]. Fortunately the vehicle starting to illegally pull out of the right hand turning lane stopped. Not a nice feeling knowing that an accident would have written off my vehicle. Suggest you have a read of the URLs for your further consideration. https://msawheels.com/wheel-offset-explained/ http://csadirect.com.au/fitment-guide.asp?DataBankId=184&DataBankCat2Name=Toyota&DataBankCat2Id=19&T=0 https://summitracing.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4638/~/hub-centric-rings

Be more guided by your mechanical inspection report than other people's best intention opinions. If the mechanic is good enough, he will be able to also advise/estimate what repairs/maintenance [if any] are likely to be required in the next 12 months.

A trick that I recently read about was to use brake fluid for the easy removal of air/fuel sensors. It worked a treat for me. I would be inclined to either give the brake fluid a go or silicone spray. Hope you have a 7lb hammer to give the pipe extension a few short sharp hits which often works when just steady pressure does not get the desired results.

Ended up being 7.9L/100 kms over 576 kms so represents a good personal benchmark for sedate highway driving.

Yesterday, 7.55L/100kms Brisbane to Warwick, then got an astounding 5.516L/100kms Warwick to Inglewood in very optimal conditions @ 100kph and no overtaking. Inglewood to Gurley went up to 8.186L/100kms. Different driving @ 110 kph and a few overtakings makes a difference. Gurley to Coonabarabran back to an estimated 7.3L/100kms with less overtaking. On the open highway, I mainly use cruise control then disconnect to slow down for the changed speed limits without the need to brake, in most cases. Going to refuel in Wagga Wagga this afternoon, so expecting the longer driving distance will be around the expected 7.6L/100kms.