campbeam

I knew that Tony would be able to provide an excellent answer speaking from his own experience. Good idea to take care and preferably avoid the fuse box and any ECUs. I have not yet done this but I have noted a few YouTube videos where they have used Tyre Foam as an engine bay cleaner. Just mentioning this as a consideration for your next engine bay clean.

Problem that I encountered yesterday is that the front passenger window was down and would not go up. Neither button on the passenger door or the master switch panel worked to raise the window. Ended up parking and locking the car with the window still down. Later, when I unlocked the car and opened the driver's door, I noticed that the passenger window fully raise by itself. Later attempts to use either button would not lower the window. I have just done a Google search and found a few YouTube videos similar to this one. I performed the suggested sequences of holding the buttons in the Up position and Down position firstly on the Master Switch then on the Door Switch but no change. Repeated the sequence and also changed the sequences around. I was getting mixed results with the window going either down or not up with one switch. The other switch might work to raise or lower window or nothing. I kept persevering. Finally, I ended up using the Master Switch only and turning the ignition On and Off. From memory, the window would partially lower then stop. Turn ignition Off then On. Window would then lower some more. Repeated until the window was fully lowered. Turn ignition On and Up button raised the window. Turn ignition Off then On. Master Switch button then able to lower and raise window. Locked car. I came back later, unlocked vehicle and checked that the Door Switch also lowers and raises the window. Hope this is of some assistance if you encounter a similar issue when a specific window is not working.

Have another look at the other side of your water pump. You will then notice the groove in the round section offset above the water pulley. Also at the 5:46 time of the YouTube video that I posted, you will be able to see the O-ring still in position on the water pump housing. This is after the thermostat housing has been removed.

I had forgotten that the new water pump [NPW brand] did come with new O-rings and a gasket. I must have been thinking about re-using the existing O-rings if they had not been included. Just checked the box and the old O-rings, gasket and pump were inside.

Thread is slightly different. After screwing it in a few times, it becomes easier as the profile of the thread becomes a bit lower. Definitely a good tight fit. It gets a pass mark as an improvisation. Only cost is a bit of effort to cut out the bottom of the bottle. However, it could be expensive if you slip and cut yourself. Yes, the grazing on the corners of the cover is evident. Maybe next time that I am at wreckers, I will ask about swapping the engine cover.

I revisited my previous improvisation of using a Nulon brake fluid bottle. Thread is different but you are able to thread it into the oil filler hole. I was thinking that I would have to cut a notch or 2 in the threaded section for an easier fit but it was not necessary.

Did you also try his direct website? https://www.omik.com.au/contact

Convenient for comparison purposes to look at a past photo to see the quantity of sludge particles. "Sludgy" has certainly deserved her name. More than 3 years later, I am certain [again] that the engine is getting to be sludge free. I will have to remember to get another photo when I next drop the engine oil. As a follow up, I did not include the Penrite Engine Flush in future oil changes but changed to using a double flush with diesel as per this thread. I am also using a full synthetic engine oil prefering those with more detergent additives.

I did not replace the O-ring but I did use some vasoline to condition it. I do not know about what type of O-ring except that it was black. More than likely with my older 2006 Aurion, it is going to be Nitrile. A chain strap vice grip would be a handy tool. However, I did not need it and I do have a few oil filter strap tools that could have been used. While there was still tension on the serpentine belt, I was able to loosen the 4 retaining bolts on the pump pulley. Torque on those bolts in not high so did not need the backup plan of using a screwdriver through one of the pulley holes then hold in place against the pump housing. Just another item in the preparation and planning ahead.

I can see that it is a quality product. I like to improvise and save $$$. If my idea works, I will post a photo. I have also got a car hoist in my dreams and certainly looked at a few on eBay. A dream garage /mancave is in the retirement plans.

I have previously viewed that video a few times. It certainly does have merit for getting the engine as clean as possible before adding the new oil. He uses a very conservative approach which would be OK for relatively clean engines. There is another video, where the engine is idled with a diesel and oil mixture. For many years, [40+], I have dropped the old engine oil then filled with diesel and idled the engine for about 5-10 minutes. On my 1975 Honda Civic, I would watch the exhaust and turn off the engine when I could see visible whitish exhaust gases indicating that the diesel was getting past the oil rings. Very different matter with modern engines and tighter clearances so idling the engine for approx. 10 minutes. When the engine has accumulated a significant amount of oil sludge, you need a much more aggressive approach to get the engine as clean as possible before adding the new oil. After running the engine with diesel for 10 minutes, I repeat the process with new [unused] diesel. This diesel is kept for the next time. Before I was not too concerned about any residue diesel as this would help to desludge the engine. Now that the engine appears to being close to being desludged, I am using a cheap oil to flush the engine before adding new quality full synthetic engine oil.

I referred to this YouTube video 1376449075_2GRFEWaterPumpRemovalInstallationwithCopiedPhotos.doc

This link may be useful. https://thefontsmagazine.com/font/toyota-font/

Nice to know that this type of product exists. Being a contrarian, I am now inspired to be thinking of a low cost workaround. So far, I have been making do with this one and have had the occasional oil spill on the Aurion when the funnel moves. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-funnel-big-mouth/291160.html

After reading this review, I should look more closely at the Lexus GS450H Hybrid range of vehicles. https://www.carsguide.com.au/ev/lexus-gs450h-hybrid-2006-review-82667

I have been focussing more of my attention upon a more encompassing viewpoint upon the impacts of electric vehicles. A main barrier to the rate of adoption or changeover from ICE to Electric is price. Hence why this following YouTube video caught my attention. For me it was definitely worth viewing because it covered so many issues. Quite easy to see that the challenges facing the German Auto Industry are the same for the Japanese Auto Industry. Interesting that they mentioned brand loyalty but the reality is that if the market wants an electric vehicle that the brand does not provide then the consumer will buy elsewhere.

I am inspired by your results. Your headlights look like brand new.

https://www.omik.com.au/contact Just me being a contrarian, I have bought one of these. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silver-Steel-Special-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Removal-Socket-Tool-Large-Size-Toyota-/154379615065 If you are a professional mechanic or want the best quality tools, get the OMIK. As mentioned on the OMIK website, competitors have tried to copy with mixed results. I did find a look a like on eBay being "CNC Machined from billet aircraft grade aluminium and anodized black. The filter remover is used with a 19mm socket/spanner." It should be better quality than the cheaper ones that Tony broke, I doubt if anything except the OMIK would had passed the "Tony Torque" test.

That was an improvisation on the day. I was more considering numbering/marking the bolts and the relevant holes but you need a good permanent marker/paint pen, space etc. If markings get blurred, is that 1 or 7, 3 or 8, 5 or 6, 6 or 9 etc. Previously, I have carefully placed parts in a tray in an ordered sequence then accidentally given the tray a boot. Good reason why this time when I removed parts, I put them in the cabin. I was also thinking at the time if there had been a photo or diagram of the actual part on the water pump box that I could have poked some holes in that box to use for the water pump bolts. I have kept that thought in mind so in future I may print out a photo or diagram then paste onto cardboard to ensure right bolt goes into the right hole.

Same as Tony, I know nothing about 4WD. I am interested particularly in the accessories and upgrades. For your consideration, there is a Member's Ride section where you could post more photos and mention why you selected those upgrades. I had not previously heard about Dobinson Springs.

I do a lot of preliminary research for tips and tricks and prepare a reference guide. This usually has the main steps and links to worthwhile YouTube videos. In most cases, I have also printed out relevant pages from the online workshop manual. When it came to the water pump replacement, I had remembered a post on Quora.com where the mechanic has mixed up the different length bolts resulting in the engine block having to be replaced. Therefore, I exercised extra effort/caution and preparation to identify the correct placement of bolts for the side mounts to the engine. Instead of numbering them, I used a cardboard/tissue box with holes in a pattern. Top right hand bolt went into an equivalent position on the box. When it came to the actual water pump bolts which has 10mm and 12mm bolts, I used a tip from a YouTube video. Each bolt removed was put into the same hole on the new water pump. After removal of the existing water pump, botls were transfered across from the new one to the old one. I use the same time approach. I take other's time estimates and double or triple them. I move at my own relaxed pace and not pushing a deadline. Therefore, opportunity and time to do the extras whether it is cleaning or checking other items. Serpentine belt got an Aerospace 303 treatment and idler pulleys checked/regreased if required. Using the phone camera is a good idea. I have the luxury of being able to look at my other Aurion. YouTube is my best friend assistant. When doing the water pump replacement, I did have a preferred YouTube video already opened for ready reference.

Interesting. You must have smaller hands than me and/or right tools to access those rear spark plugs. I think that I did try to remove that rear bracket for the intake plentum but gave up and removed the wiper cowl to get more working space. I am sure than even with the wiper cowl removed, I was having a bit of fun removing and replacing the coil packs until I removed the retaining bolts for the wiring harness.

Welcome to the Forum. You look as though you have got the right vehicle for the rainy season. I was just thinking that it would have cost you a few dollars then I noticed a Bank's building in the background. 😄 Another few weeks and you will be past what I drive in 12 months. I spend so much time on the bus going to work. 😷

Underlying cause for the white smoke is an accumulation of oil sludge in the baffles of the valve cover. The engine oil can no longer drain as quickly past these baffles. What then happens is that oil vapour is sucked via the PCV valve and then condenses in the intake. When you start up the next morning, the engine blows white smoke. In your case, the immediate solution is to change to a shorter oil change interval of 4-5K kms and to definitely use Full Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil to assist to desludge the engine. Have a read in your manual abour severe driving conditions and changed service intervals. Something else that you should consider is having the automatic transmission fluid changed soon. You should notice an improvement in the gear shifts.

Sure that it was a Highlander i.e. Kluger in Australia. Cowl removal needs to be done on the Aurion so you can access to the rear bank of the engine. Good idea to replace the ignition coils when you replace the spark plugs which should be long life double iridiums.