DJKOR

Well... it can be fixed... but when is going to be the question. But then if you disable mobile view completely, then there may be some out there who prefer it, and you then disadvantage them. You sure there is no link at the bottom of it all that enables you to switch to full view?

I was thinking it was more of the quiet diesel tractor engine type of sound... lower in frequency as mentioned. There are just so many things on this engine that makes all kinds of noises. You have the VVT-i controllers, VVT-i solenoids, the PCV VSV (on the right side of the engine.. makes a pulsating hissing sound), then you have the engine in general. What ever happened to simplicity. When you consider though what is going on inside the engine in a single combustion cycle, then multiply this into how many times it goes per second, the sounds you hear are nothing out of the ordinary. Every engine is different and some make noises that others don't... even under perfectly normal operation.

To this day, I am still annoyed that I couldn't get those rotors. At least we tried.

It's not all about the power. It does play a role, but handling can be more critical. Not until I get new tires, rotors, pads, and quite possibly new shocks.

That sounds completely normal to me. My last Aurion made the same sound (I think I know the one you are referring to), and my TRD does as well if you manage to listen carefully over the rattling of the supercharger. I don't know enough about the workings of these engines to determine what it is, but it's something that is not just limited to yours.

Yeah. I guess I can make an appearance and spread some of my awesomeness. I'll be there straight after work so I'll see if you if I see you. When I get there depends on how long this Meccano set of a HP rack takes to assemble and configure.

Depends on what you are resizing it with and the settings you use. How about this. Go to the following site, upload the full image and I will resize it for you and re-upload it. http://upload.djkor.com

I was keeping my eye on this for a while since they first put out the feelers for such cruise. I'd probably end up going. Not liking the looks of the following line though: What are the chances that a fair few non-Toyotas turn up.

No. I've posted reasoning for this earlier before but really can't be bothered digging it up. The acceleration there is normal for pretty much any N/A Aurion. Remembering 100km/h marked on the speedo isn't exactly 100km/h. An actual speed of 100km/h would be at about the 105-110 mark on the speedo. So realistically, your 0-100 time is normal at about 7.1-7.3 seconds. Anyways, take it to the drags if you want a proper time. Won't get the 0-100km, but you will get the details that matter.

It's either QLD / Brissy, not too sure. Got that by lookin at the number plate... What I know for sure is that if he was gonna come to the meet, it's gonna be Brissy. Bingo. The fact that I said that he should bring it out to one of our meets should have given it away. I usually ask which side of town they are on if I don't know.

An AT-X/Touring/Prodigy accelerating down a slight downgrade from the looks of it 6.08 seconds for the speedo reading to go from 0-100 (marked on the speedo), but if you count it properly which includes the time taken for the car to initially start rolling (indicated by the increase in revs before the speed picks up), then it is 6.71 seconds from 0-100 (speedo measurement) from the moment he puts his foot down.

You will need to make a slight tradeoff with longevity is you want better than average grip (depending on how much extra grip than average you are looking for)... especially for a FWD. The following are my thoughts based on experience with them on a larger car (ie. my Aurion): Dunlop - A suitable alternative to a good all-rounder in my opinion. Provides fairly good grip under normal driving conditions in the dry, and provides even better grip once some heat is put into them (ie. mountain run driving). It does leave more to be desired though in terms of wet weather grip, but under normal driving, it's enough to keep you on the road. I would rate it slightly better than average for wet conditions. Bridgestone - Excellent dry grip but only once they are warm. I would rate their grip under normal driving conditions in the dry to be average. Wet weather grip isn't really a strong point with these tires. I would rate them as slightly less than average in the wet. Yokohama - Better dry weather grip than the Dunlops in both normal driving conditions and spirited driving conditions. Wet weather performance is about average so a step better than the Dunlops. They are a soft compound tire so don't expect them to last long. Using them on the fronts only... expect about 25,000km out of them. They also make a bit more road noise than the two above. If I had to pick one of those three that I have listed above, I would have to go with the Adrenalins. Despite the wet weather performance being slightly less than average, they make up for it in dry weather grip. That said, that is only if I had to choose from those three. In my case however, I am getting neither of them again. This time around, I am going to go for the 595EVO's to see how they go. Also, if I was to add to this, I would avoid the KU36's unless you intend on changing them rather often. They don't quite have a reputation for longevity. Also, they aren't exactly the best in the wet, but they aren't the worst either. As well, if you are considering the Federals there, you may as well rule the 595SS out because the 595EVO would more than likely be the better option out of the two.

Well the average distance travelled per year is something that differs from person to person. It's just like saying how far a person walks on average per year. For a 2008 model, the kilometres travelled would be considered quite high. But for someone like me, that is normal. Basically, given the age of the car and the distance travelled, the car should be priced accordingly when compared to other ones on the market of the same age but lesser kilometres.

Could you possibly be more specific in your question?

Welcome Mitch. Make sure to bring her out to one of our weekly meets. We haven't had a facelift rock up yet. Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday 8pm)

Welcome. Why not start a thread dedicated to your Camry in the Members Rides section? Then you can talk about it all you want.

Welcome mate. Hope to see you out at one of our meets then: Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday 8pm)

Nah. I wouldn't really recommend it anymore. Yes I did love it at first and I still do, but it's a little behind at the moment and Sony are a bit lacking on the update. It got released with Android 1.6 and the update to 2.1 was meant to be last week. It has now been pushed back to some time in October. Makes me a little disappointed in Sony right now. But I guess as long as it's updated before Linkin Park in December I will be happy. The update will enable 720p video recording so I can get some video from the front of the mosh. The X10 is also a bit less fluid in it's operation when compared to something like the Samsung Galaxy. On top of that, the Galaxy's AMOLED screen is just so vibrant in it's colours. If it wasn't for the AMOLED disadvantages (actual pixel resolution isn't true 800x480, etc), then I would have one already. That said, I still like Sony Ericsson phones. Just steer clear of their WinMo phones. It's not HTC that is the problem, but Microsoft really drags them down.

I swear I saw a bunch of these on the back of a truck the other day. There were about 4 or 5 of them... all the same green colour I guess it comes down to the following... is that green colour unique to the Focus RS or can other Focuses get it? If not, then I can be 99% sure I sure a bunch of them on the back of a truck.

It's called rust. It forms a pretty strong bond and makes it nice and difficult to remove. Have a look around your rotor for a threaded hole. You should have a couple of them. Insert a bolt of the appropriate size into both of them and tighten each one a little bit at a time until the rotor comes off. If you don't happen to have those threaded holes... I'm sorry but, hahahaha. LOL, you wish. They don't always come off easy.

The following is how it all works on the Aurion, but I'm sure it would be the same for you. You 'Cruising Range' is calculated based on a combination of your average fuel consumption (hence why the km's can count down faster or slower than actual), and the total readable fuel on the gauge. You fuel gauge will read (due to it's design) about 80%-85% of the fuel in your tank so therefore, from full to empty, it would only read about 57.6-61.2 litres. Therefore, if it says you have a cruising range of 496km, this would equate to an average fuel consumption of about 11.6-12.2l/100km. It tends to start a little bit off like that, but as you start to clock up the kilometres, the Cruising Range starts to become a little more accurate to what is expected for those 57 or so litres. You will find that if you were to drive after your fuel gauge reaches empty and your Cruising Range says '0km', you could easily get another 50-80km or so of travel.

From that perspective, it looks like a mess of spaghetti.

Not too many. But China is one of them.. and their Camry is basically our Aurion with respect to the body.

So you can see your speed without looking down at your dash. But you would most likely need to remove the components and make a cutout on the opposite speaker grill to fit it in. Otherwise you could buy a universal HUD and custom fit it in the first place.

Special edition. LOL. And it has to be up for sale from someone who has been around here because they had to get the second photo from somewhere.... like the ones I took in the following post: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23872&view=findpost&p=353128