DJKOR

Pretty broad statement to make there. People sometimes have to sell (maybe even cheaper than usual) because they need to get rid of their car due to other commitments. You can't say you know everyone's intentions. Not saying this car is good, but you just can't make the generalisation that because the car is cheaper than usual (or as you said... just selling in general) that there is something doggy going on.

I do recall chicaboo (Gav) here in Brisbane was having issues with the Scangauge II which is meant to be OBDII compliant and what not. He couldn't seem to get it to work on his Sportivo even after changing all the settings etc. Just a heads up as well.

Impossible for that scenario to happen. The camera will always receive +12v (or there abouts... ie. +13.8v) regardless of whether this is coming from the reverse lights alone, the bypass switch, or both at the same time. Only issue that can happen with the above circuit with respect to running +12v to the camera when you aren't in reverse is the potential to illuminate the reverse lights as well. If you don't have a diode between the camera power and the reverse lights, then power can then be applied to the reverse lights when you activate the camera (when not in reverse) making the person behind you think you are in reverse. Edit: LOL. My bad. I made that reply without reading all the other posts in the thread. I see that the problem I have stated here is the reason for the tread. In that case, give me a minute to draw something up for you. Edit 2: From what you describe, and from knowing how people wire things up, I would be guessing that you have wired yours up something like the following: If that is the case (or you have wired it up differently), you should try to wire it up like the following. This will work just like planned where putting the car into reverse will activate the reverse camera and the reverse lights, and flicking the override switch will activate the reverse camera but not the reverse lights. They type of diode you use does not have to be rated for much. Just you typical 1N4004 1A diodes ($0.50 for 4) will do the trick. One thing to note is that if you want your head unit to also switch to reverse camera mode automatically when the override switch is activated (instead of selecting reverse camera manually through the head unit), then the trigger wire for the reverse camera has to be connected to the right side (as per the diagram) of that diode. Background information for those that are wondering what the diode does when put there. The diode allows current to flow in one direction only. This is best indicated by conventional current flow (+ve to -ve) in which the arrow of the diode symbol points. Without the diode, when you flick the switch to activate your reverse camera, power also flows through to the reverse light which in turn causes it to illuminate, and also flow back to the reverse light indicator on the dash, causing that to illuminate as well. By putting the diode in where I have indicated, you are preventing this power from your override switch from flowing back to the reverse light (because in that case the diode is pointing in the opposite direction to conventional current flow) and therefore the reverse light will not illuminate.

First post states:

If you have changed your dome light over to LED's, you can cut out the relay completely seeing that neons do not draw much current. That said, a relay circuit would be optimal, and I would recommend using one if I was to provide any advice. If you know what you are dealing with, then that's your call. The way I would do it is as follows: 1) Find the wires that lead up to your dome light exclusively. You should have three of them. All Toyota's are pretty much the same in the respect that they are ground switching, but you should test with a multimeter first before making any final connections. The following assumes you are dealing with ground switching. My SV21 Camry was like this as is my Aurion, so I would imagine the Corolla being the same. Attached is a diagram of the Corolla wiring, and it appears to be the same. As I said though, test before connecting. 2) Of the three wires going to the dome light, one will be constant +12v. This can be used to power your neons directly, or will connect directly to one side of a relay coil. Your choice there. Your decision will be based on your research. 3) The other two wires will be for ground. One will be a constant ground and the other will be grounded only when a door is open. You can test this with a multimeter. Just be aware that the one that is grounded when the door is opened can also possibly be +12v when the door is closed. Just remember this when testing them as this may confuse some. 4) I would then get a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) switch with a 'centre = off' position and use this to control your neons. The common (typically the centre connection) connection of the switch connects to the negative side of your neons or the other side of the relay coil. Then one of the switch connections goes to the constant ground of the dome light, and the other connection of the switch goes to the switched ground of the dome light. From here, you are done if you connected directly to your neons, or if you went via a relay, you just have to finish wiring it like Mick has mentioned above. With this, when the switch is in the centre postion your neons will always be off, when the switch is in on of its end positions your neons will always be on, and in the other position your neons will come on whenever a door is open. If you don't understand what I've been going on about, seek the assistance of someone who does.

Welcome mate. Only thing I want to say is Nangkang and performance don't really go together

That's what I would do. Or find a close colour paint or spray paint and lightly cover it. At least that will create less of a distinction between the colour differences. Otherwise, you could remove the entire headliner and either replace it, or dye it another colour.

Had a late night wash and wax session with Andrew and Anthony:

No wukkas mate.

I think I'll up the Murphy's Law chance. I'm going to go wash and wax mine soon.

That is a very good question. I have even wondered that myself since I though the same thing about keeping the key simple. If I were to guess, I would say yes... seeing that the Smart Entry shares the same frequency set both in the States and in Australia. But that's my guess though. If you could obtain an American key/remote combo cheap enough, I don't see much harm in trying.

Meeting at the same place as always at the same time as always. Go back to the first post if you still don't know. Mates are fine, but try not to turn this into a Boostloosing meet. Our meets are generally small in nature.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmzxULoN1wM

I do recall him saying this: Nothing at all like an Aurion ... (this is not my car, just an image for you) The 2GR-FE engine goes in the back, where it belongs. The chassis will be made from mild steel tubes. It will have no bodywork, windscreen or airconditioning (accept the right foot 'fan speed' control). It will both be registered to drive on the road and comply with CAMS to race on the track . It will be extremely light weight and have a power to weight ratio of 450 HP per tonne! Hence the username. As a result, I don't need these and other parts from the Aurion (just the engine, transmission & electronics). Once I have removed the parts I need, I will also get rid of the Aurion shell.

Andrew... doesn't it just suck how the sun is up in full as if it never drizzled while we were at the loop/driving home. Damn random weather.

^ Heck yeah. That's mad. The thing that has me interested the most is just the fact you have the engine sitting there running. It's the un-naturalness of it all

Yo guys, I'm really happy for you, I'ma Let you finish, but a Suzuki SX4 (latest generation) hatch is what that bumper belongs to. Do I win?

Don't be completely doubtful of a potential bargain. You never know.. it may actually be legit. As with everything though, just make sure to do your research.

Factor in around $10. For reference, one for the TRD Aurion cost $6.60, so I wouldn't imagine much deviation from that amount.

The Toyota Service Advantage is a nationwide capped price service. Regardless of where you get your car serviced, if you have the Toyota Service Advantage deal as part of your new/used car purchase (you can check your eligibility here), then all dealerships will honour this. For example, my TRD originated from a dealer in Nunawading. It has been serviced there, as well as at CMI Toyota in Adelaide, and Southside Toyota in Brisbane. Each time, the service was capped at $120.

As said, that's store stock only. Good luck finding a store that holds stock of the Aurion rotors (especially in the 4000 Series). They usually only hold stock for the Commonwhores and Falcoons with the occasional Toyota stock.

Offset has nothing to do with brake calliper clearance. The design of the wheel hub and spokes affects the clearance for the brakes.

How good is your eye sight? You are aware the ZRE Corolla is physically LARGER than the ZZE as well right?

A birthday shoutout to Mick and Northy. HAPPY BIRTHDAY you two.

Kool. My first deleted thread. I think I tried to experiment on deleting an old irrelevant thread and I didn't have appropriate permissions. I'm still trying to understand what a 'Moderator' on the boards here can and can't do. Unfortunately it's not like I have a manual or anything... or so I think. Edit: I can't block the member though. I think that is a job for a Super Mod.