DJKOR

^ Tease

Well you say fastest 4-cylinder. You didn't specify that it has to be a road car

Do you really think you could trust that site?

^ It's not the actual styling that is the issue. It's the base car they have chosen to style up. Each to their own. Everyone is displaying their own point of view. No point trying to show them that their view isn't necessarily in line with the styling ethics. They already have their views. It's like posting a photo of a model that you like and everyone responds saying they don't think she should be a model. Then you post back photos of models that are of the same 'quality' as the one you originally posted to show everyone that she is model worthy. See what's happening?

Nah...thats what these MARKETEERS want you to believe. I tend to fall for the marketing crap hence why I like to use Fuel Doctor. But this isn't for the injector cleaning properties, it's for the supposed fuel tank cleaning properties. That said, I have been meaning to get some once I got the TRD, but still haven't got around to it. In terms of performance, 40,000km into it's life without an injector clean and it still runs like new. Can average as low as 7.5l/100km and it runs nice times at the drags. I can't really imagine it running any better than that.

Man I miss my SV21. Good car they are. Hope you enjoy it. They weren't that bad . Nothing a little Lucas oil treatment couldn't fix, hehehe.

Yes... because I can't buy a Landcruiser in Australia. In the words of the bush mechanic, we need some longcat up in this bitch:

I'm on a little bit of doubt here now. Back when I first purchased Fuchs Titan Super GTO, it was marketed on their website and was stated on the bottle that it was a fully synthetic oil. A little bit of a while back, they changed the packaging and I never really thought of it except for the "hey, they have new packaging". An observation was brought up recently and I've noticed now as well that neither the website or the bottle states it is a fully synthetic oil anymore. Personally, I haven't noticed any change in the oil visually, but it does make me wonder if it is still a fully synthetic. I have noticed that they have some other oils now that they market as their 'premium synthetic' such as the Titan GT1 SAE and Titan GT1 PRO C3, so it's got me wondering if: 1) They just stopped mentioning about the Titan Super GTO being a fully synthetic to draw more attention to the other oils, or 2) They have changed the composition of the Titan Super GTO to a synthetic blend. I can't imagine them changing the composition just like that, but you never know. I will probably end up calling them or stopping into one of their offices to have a chat to them, but in the meantime though, I'll still be using it. So far it has caused me no issues (even after the change in packaging) and it does the job as expected. That said, if I do find that the composition has changed to a synthetic blend, I will probably change oils to the Titan GT1 PRO C3 which is a 5W30 that has the API SM/CF rating so should be fine for use on the Aurion. At the end of the day, it probably doesn't make any difference, but it's a personal thing.

Cheers for the heads up mate :)

I feel like I could eat the entire menu contents at a desert bar. So it makes me feel worse than when I started

Did you read the post above yours?

I personally don't think it suits. Yeah sure, props to the guy who did it, but VIP or VIP styled, the Yaris doesn't really cut it in my opinion. A VIP styled car in my opinion should have an expensive and classy look to it. In my eyes, that car doesn't look like either.

Today I finally got off my lazy behind and replaced my reverse camera. I ordered a new one a couple of days ago and today I fitted it. I had previously been using a temporary setup with the camera that came with the head unit but the image was half cropped. Te reason why I was so lazy about it is because a OEM replacement camera made for this car simply doesn't fit mine (you will see why in the following images), so I have to use a generic camera and custom mount it. Anyways, after a couple of hours mucking around to get it all perfect, it is all done. The images explain themselves:

As with any airbag disconnection, make sure you have disconnected the battery for at least 90 seconds before performing any work. Also, with these dry winter days, make sure you statically discharge yourself (by touching the frame of the car firstly) before handing the airbag connector. It may seem a little over the top to do things like this, but the last thing you want is a slight mishap setting your airbag off.

What can you do.... ..... custom turbo. Like SuperDave said, firstly you have to decide on what YOU want to do with it. You can do anything you want to a car. It just depends on the way you see it.

Well I did say: My K&N is getting dirty rather quickly strangely enough (visual appearance anyways, but any excuse will do), so I may look into ordering an 'S&B' air filter from the States as mentioned previously and then experimenting with removing the reducer. Only thing is, as with anything I do, I'll have to take it back to the 1/4 to make sure I haven't lost any power. It's certainly cheaper than a dyno, but still... for $40 each time I go, I'm kinda over going. What I have now feels to me like it works so I am becoming less inclined to change it. Well I'll put an S&B on, but I don't know about the reducer just yet.

I didn't do anything. I'm just stating an observation Yeah man. Those were some really serious bush mechanic skills. Certainly amazed me.

I see you're still sporting your drag entrant number on your Aurion there Chris . Come on, I know you are still around and everyone is waiting impatiently. What's the news? Edit: I'm going to be really naughty... great time though Chris. Would love to see some timeslips to see how it all tied together. That looks like a 14.14s pass with what appears to be some wheelspin. Looks like you have modded it good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZcHJlbSH84 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8FckyGlc48 http://www.queenslandcommodores.com/showpost.php?p=26365&postcount=28

I dunno if it's much of a deal since I get most of this stuff through work, but whenever I used to buy batteries, I would usually get the ***** Smith bulk alkaline packs. They are no different in quality to say an Energiser or Duracell and for $20 you get like 40 AA's. http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4c484c990111ab5a273fc0a87e010651/Product/View/S4040

I saw the strangest things as I left the loop tonight. Some hazy fog stuff looked like it passed through the loop. Lucky I just missed it. It didn't get you guys did it?

Yeah, and the manual also states that an oil consumption of 1 litre per 1000km is completely normal. Do you really believe the manual now?

Spotted Chris (00UCH) at 10:20pm on Milton Road from Petrie Terrace to Milton Maccas.

Just like how my last Aurion was ex-rental and it was going pretty damn strong.

Did your last FWD have 200kW at the wheels? Like I said, I think it may have to do with weight transfer. The way I imagine this is that with less weight at the rear, there is less load on the rear springs. I think the springs are more progressive in their design in that the initial bit of compression is 'easy' and then after that it gets 'harder'. Because of this, during the launch you then have more travel available to the rear springs thus weight is taken of the front wheels much quicker. Combine this with the power put down to the wheels, and it causes an easier loss in traction. As said, it's only my ideas. I took my last Sportivo down to the drags more than 25 or so times and my theory is based on findings from that. I didn't say removing weight won't help... I just mentioned that there can be a limit. I suspect that if I had coilovers and made the rear as stiff as possible, then things may be a little different.

Barina with racing stripes... It must be fast.