DJKOR

Well then in that case, a harsh shift from N -> D (which is also applicable in you case) can be one of the following: 1. Valve body assembly 2. C1 accumulator 3. One-way clutch No. 1 (F1) 4. Clutch No. 1 (C1) 5. Shift solenoid valve (SL1)1 6. TCM (Transmission Control Module) Possibilities 2 through to 5 require the transmission to come apart to test for proper operation, so unless you were to go to that extent, then I guess it may be one of those things that if it doesn't happen too often, then you may need to ride it out.

I know this will also sound stupid, but are you bringing the car to a complete stop before you put it into drive?

Just to rule this out if this is not the case... are you referring to what is described here (this was from the Kluger forum, but same deal): Automatic I would assume. Have you payed attention to the revs the engine is at when you do this? Are you selecting reverse within 10 seconds of a complete cold start? If so, wait about 20-30 seconds until the revs drop down to 1000RPM (or very close to) and then try selecting reverse. See if it does it much smoother then. So in other words, when you experience this issue, how high are your engine revs?

Find a mate with small hands and wrists Having that makes working around that area much easier.

I do have a story about a mate with his Celica and sunroof. I guess the story tells itself.

I like that. I think I will sig that. I thought of the idea with the intake and my old man said that it will be a jinx if I did it. Best to let it go. That is so true... and I thank you for that. I got all the final photos I needed like the wheels, tail lights, and intake. Oh the memories. I might have to hit you up some time for the full res shots if you still have them.

Took my personalised plates off her and then removed a few small items from inside (cigarette lighter USB charger, remote gain module for amplifier, and the extremely important SD card which contains details within the navigation software indicating maximum speeds etc). Then I sat in the drivers seat one last time and said my final goodbyes.

Whenever replacing your shocks, it is usually a good idea to get a strut kit (like a Monroe Strut Mate) that replaces your bump stops, and dust boot. Not exactly necessary (depending on the current wear), but it's a wise decision regardless. Other things to look at are the spring seats to see if they are wearing or worn and if you think it would be good to replace them... then do so.

Sorry... the Camry just ain't the same unless it is boosted :P

The assessor would have taken photos of the car. I'm pretty sure AAMI would like to recover as much as they can from the car, so if I removed anything from it, I don't want to risk them using this against me for any which reason. I wouldn't have been able to replace them for the simple fact that the car is in Dubbo and everything I took off it is in Brisbane. AAMI said they will be planning on taking it late today or on Monday. I figured, the TRD will already have the TRD steering wheel, I will rather have tinted stock tail lights on a TRD (which I now have a complete set at home to experiment with), and the headunit... well that is an unfortunate loss (as it was a birthday present from all my mates), but then again I can now get that new HD head unit. I had a good hard look as well and figured the intake wouldn't fit either, which is a bit of a bummer because an intake on the TRD would sound sweet. I guess this one is going to be a CES job.

If you really want to see if you can find where the issue may be coming from, I would advise not to reset your ECU. Instead, firstly try talking to your Toyota service department and see if they would be kind enough to scan your OBDII free of charge to see if anything useful as been logged by the ECU. If you talk to the right people, they should have no issue with doing this for you.

Well I can tell you the Aurion's have quite a lot of rear seat space in case things kick off. Sounds like a plan.

Well I have said my final goodbyes to Sam. She was such a lovely car. Just saying goodbye to her was enough to want to bring me to tears. Such a sad moment. So with that said... this was the last time I saw her: And since she is resting here in Dubbo... here is one I took on the way to the Annual Meet in Melbourne last year:

It's all in the beam pattern. Here is a post I made early with respect to American LHD headlights:

Then you haven't been driving your Aurion hard enough :P :P :P

You should sift through Mish's match-maker thread. Probably best to work from the end and go backwards... but maybe not too far since peoples' statuses change: POLL: SINGLE MEN !! (i knew that would get some attention) No promises made.

Hmmmm. I think I better start looking. If they have these in white, I am so getting them if I end up with a black TRD. Combine this with tinted tail lights (which I conveniently have a spare set to play with at home now) and this would be wicked.

Thanks for the offer Ash, but I've already given Elgin's TRD a test drive so I know what they feel like. Certainly felt different, but what was felt the most is feel from the drivers seat. You know how when you get you seat set up right and get used to it, then everything else feels different. But apart from that, it's all familiar driving... just a little more fun. Plus your car isn't exactly one that I would feel comfortable driving in a spirited fashion. It's just your car seems so new still. In the meantime, I'm on the way to Dubbo now to return the hire car (it's my old man's driving shift), and then stop by the towing depot to remove my plates from the car, and my precious SD card out of the GPS that holds some valuable trip statistics on it Then say my final goodbyes. Also still waiting on AAMI's payments department to call me up to sort the payment out. I'm guessing that due to the unfortunate series of events, they are pretty busy at the moment.

Evan!!! Resize you signature pic. Be considerate to others.

Well I did say "I think". I'm known for having a pretty crappy memory, and when it comes to listening to dealers, all I hear is $$$. I thought about it and I think the figure was actually $190... which makes more sense.

On that diagram 'THA' and 'ETHA' form the wiring for the Intake Air Temperature sensor. So in other words, the colours you will be looking at is pink, and then green with red stripe. Please don't tell me you are fitting an intake resistor mod.

You can cut and solder, or cut and crimp some connectors on for easy reversibility if you want. Or if you have the patience (which I didn't have), you can remove the pins from the connector and swap them around. To make it easy for you, a member here "Aurion ZR6" did up a guide quite a while back: Selector Mod for Automatic

I'm making a big assumption here, but I would think that the reason this thing is still going is Mish (M_M). Not saying that in a bad way.

Actually, those lights from R.Style racing were something that I was considering. The reason for this is that you will get more even illumination (much like the Lexus number plate lighting) than from just using T10 LED replacements alone. Also as well, the LED's are positioned to face directly down (where an LED replacement has more light biased to a 45 degree angle to the vertical) which will light the plate more uniformly as well. This is a really good plus especially for someone like me who has a chunky personalised plate. You saw what I mean Jeff. Anyways, to replace the rear light assembly, you need to remove the trim that is behind the number plate. To remove that trim, you firstly have to remove the tail lights that are on the boot then loosen off the 10mm nuts that are on the top part of the trim on the inside of the boot lid. As long as your number plate is off, the trim is now prepared for removal. Then the fun part. There are four clips at the bottom of the trim that hold it to the boot lid. These are very stiff clips and I wouldn't be surprised if you broke a couple/few of them. You need a bit of force to remove the trim (don't worry, the clips will give way before breaking the trim), and you may hear them snap off into the boot lid. Unfortunately there is not an easy way around that. When putting it back on, the combination of the tail lights and number plate hold the trim to the boot rather well, but putting a little silicone on the back (especially blocking the holes you make) certainly won't hurt. You can see how the lights attach underneath, as well as one of the busted clips at the bottom in the following photo:

I won't be there. Will be driving this rental back to Dubbo then saying my final goodbyes to my car while I'm there.