DJKOR

That's cool Nathan. I guess you could say that I am trading it in. Not quite the best way to do so unfortunately, but I doubt that I could have traded it in/sold it for the amount it was insured for, so in a way I can look at it on the bright side. But yeah... CES all the way on this one. No room for effing around. I know for a fact the exhaust is a little too restrictive for the TRD, so this is first to get fixed. An intake is of lower priority on the list, so that will come after.

This is pretty much what Hiro Protagonist said and I quoted above. I would say that it is most likely that the Aurion will do the same thing and cut the fuel. I've driven a new Corolla with the instantaneous fuel consumption display and in situations where the car is just coasting with your foot off the accelerator, it instantaneous fuel consumption drops to 0.0l/100km. I wouldn't think the Aurion would be much different since the Corolla shows that and automatic transmission can do the same.

Once I get the TRD, everything is going to be done RIGHT. I'll be getting CES and CES only to work on the intake and exhaust. :D

With the HID's, does it work again when you turn it off then turn it on again after a few seconds or so? With the basic aftermarket HID kits, it can occur that one side may not ignite, or will go out shortly after turning on. This is an indication of a slightly poorer quality lamp and a HID ballast not designed with particular re-strike properties. With all HID kits I've had, I have had the odd occasion where one side does not ignite, and to fix this, you simply turn the headlight off then on again. Turning your HID's on while stationary and waiting about 15-30 seconds before driving off is also a good idea as this reduces wear on the lamps. The process that gets HID's started is a little bit complex in a way so if it fails to start the first time, then trying again usually does the trick. A general aftermarket ballast will usually attempt 3 times within a second to get the lamp to ignite. If this fails (or if it does ignite then goes out shortly), it will not re-attempt this until power is removed from the ballast then applied again. It also wouldn't hurt to check the wiring to the ballast on the side that is giving you issues. A good supply of power is essential for their operation. If when you try to turn your HID's on, it will flash quickly but never turn on, this is a good indication that your lamp may be at the end of it's life. As for the LED parkers, flickering is a good indication of that particular LED replacement reaching the end of it's life. Cheap automotive LED's usually just have a resistor to control their current. Due to the normal fluctuations in the power supply to the LED's, they may have a tendency to wear out quicker. This is especially true when you use LED replacements that have multiple SMD LED's. As well, having them near a higher heat source like the headlights can also have an influence on this extra wear. If they are flickering, chances are you will just have to get some new ones.

Sorry.... I knew that as well. I should refrain from posting when I'm tipsy:

Awww. You found a little critter in your car. Less awww though is the fact you haven't caught him. As said, better find him quick. That one looks a bit scrawny and will probably be hungry. They do like to chew wires and this is not a good thing with your car. I find it funny though that you got a photo of it... but let him get away. Priorities

This is what I call a development. Definitely keep us posted. That looks oh-so similar to the one the guy with the 2GR MR2 has. By any chance, does that guy have any involvement with this?

So far... still no further news. I am a fair bit fed up with the service at the moment, but also I feel a bit neutral at the same time. It was 10 days ago that they called me to say my details have been passed on to their payments division to get that all sorted and they will call me in a few days. Ten days later and I still haven't had a call. I called them up two days ago to make sure I didn't miss anything, and was just told that it shows there as authorised and they will call shortly. I guess it's all comes down to priority at the moment. No doubt they would be overwhelmed with claims and considering they cover home insurance as well, these are much more important than a vehicle. Luckily I'm still in Adelaide until the 9th of April working in the CBD without the need for a car.

There is nothing to worry about mate. The idle speed is all electronically controlled and over time, it can adjust so that it has a lower idle starting RPM than it once had before. This could be due to a number of reasons, but the one I would be guessing is doing this is for emissions control.

LOL. Was just going to post this same song. Just heard it now on Fresh 92.7 here in Adelaide. Distinctly noticed and liked it due to vocals by Luciana. So here we go. Richard Vission & Static Revenge Feat. Luciana - I Like That Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

For the inexperienced, I would suggest tapping into the dome light. That there would be part of your interior illumination circuit.

Every time I hear that, I keep thinking of this (at 2 minutes, 50 seconds): Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Definitely illegal. Blue lights are reserved for emergency vehicles only.

rarrrrrwwwww!!!!!!!!!! im at the local getting smashed...

Sorry to hear mate. I completely understand how you feel right now. But like I've been told, cars can be replaced at least... even though it's not the same in a way.

Good stuff mate. That's definitely what I will be getting when I eventually get back on the road again. And like I said though, unfortunately those clips are a bstard. I guess they were never meant to be removed.

Well you are going to have to make a compromise somewhere. Either run the heater on with your windows down a bit, use the A/C to de-humidify the cabin, or live with the condensation that can build up, even when using anti-fog coatings. Or you can stop breathing. That's where most of the moisture in the air comes from in a car environment.

That statement is a matter of personal opinion. Just saying. The only thing like this that I would recommend is 'Fuel Doctor'. Google it and have a read about it.

On the topic of interior painting, I was thinking that a good effect would be that brushed aluminium effect in like a gunmetal grey colour. Similar to what this guy has one with his green Camry, but just a different colour:

One of two places mate: 1) Toyota spare parts, or 2) Wreckers. First option, expect to spend a bit; second option should be more cost efficient.

As said, it would be your alternator. The 'charge' light indicating an issue with the charging circuit. Given the age of the car, one common cause to get that light is your carbon brushes in the alternator may need replacing. Nothing big, they are a wearing component. Shouldn't cost much and is only a few minutes to change.

Strange. I found the Australian made RE001's to perform exactly the same as the Japanese made ones on my Aurion.

Mate, firstly not trying to be rude, but you sent me a PM asking this question so if you were patient, I would have just answered you through PM. Otherwise, if you ask the question here, there is no need to PM me with the same question. It will get answered one way or another. Anyway, these are the answer you are looking for... two of which have been answered before: Sorry for the thread revival, but to give an update on this, I have had reports that the red wire with silver dot is not the right wire. Since everyone seems to give up after they find it is the wrong wire, I have gone back and double checked the harness. I do apologize as this is an honest mistake, but this is why I suggest people pick up a cheap multimeter if they plan on playing with the wiring of their car. This way you can find stuff out like this without having to ask. Anyways, the wire you need to tap into is the thin red wire with no other markings on it. I have indicated this wire in the attached photos: & Under standard head unit wiring, blue/white usually represents a remote turn on for an amplifier. If you have a multimeter you can test to see if this wire goes to +12v when the head unit is turned on. If so, you can use this to turn on any amps you have/plan to have in the future. Looking at the diagram in the manual you have provided, this seems to be the likely candidate since there is no other wire marked for the amp remote trigger. Previously I thought the 'CNTR' stood for 'CENTRE', but I guess they meant 'CONTROL'. As for the one marked "ILL -PWN" usually this is for dimming the illumination of the head unit controls if it has such a feature. Usually it is connected to +12v when the illumination is on, but some can vary and may connect to ground. The way it is labelled suggests ground, but that I can not determine without testing.

May not be good for the pocket.... but boy will the results be more than worth it. Me thinks your car is a perfect candidate for a turbo job ;) This is the photo that makes me see the fast side of it. Despite it missing a few of the later mods, I'm sure the 'stance' would just give the same effect:

To expand on what I was saying with respect to the grey colour, something like this would be what I like. As I said, only if a change is necessary. Personally I like dark backgrounds because when you go onto the forum at night, it isn't overly bright to look at. But for this forum, that wouldn't really be the best direction.