DJKOR

That's alright. You can save the effort. I hear that this guy will be out doing a Nebo run tomorrow though so you should see him there.

^ Hell yeah! As for me, not much: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...st&p=379359

Since this is where Greg (czaja74) had posted his outcome, I figured I should do so as well in this tread seeing that these were his. Thanks mate. Now I did say I would think that such tail lights wouldn't work on a darker colour car, but I'm actually liking it. Photos don't seem to capture the way it looks in person. Like Speedz said: One thing I really like is that the fog light in the centre has had the back cut out to be ready for a bulb socket. This is handy because I am wanting to put an IR LED bulb replacement in to aid my reversing camera. On my old lights, there was not hole cut out. Anyways: It's like my mesh grill when I first got it. It just didn't look good in photos, but in person it looked quite alright.

Should probably have used the 'Detailing - Show & Shine' forum that we have here. Too late now but anyways, some things are best answered with a little Google searching. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

I'll put it this way... you can't simply connect two antennas to your car and expect it to work. The ability of your antenna to pick up your desired station comes down to the design of the antenna. It may just happen that for the station you want, the antenna is not that efficient at picking it up. You will have to unplug your current one and put in a different one that is more tuned to the frequency you need. Finding this though is difficult, so your next option is to make one up to replace your current one and make it so it is tuned to the frequency you need. Basically have a look into making your own dipole antenna. This guide should be simple enough to follow: http://www.northcountryradio.com/Articles/fmdip.htm

Got some great tips from the car detailing pro himself (SILVABULLET) and gave my car a nice bath at a really good self serve car wash. Also picked up my transmission oil strainer and sump gasket so I can change my transmission fluid eventually.

Depends on if he wants a factory looking solution or an aftermarket looking solution. Unfortunately Jaycar can only cater for the former.

That would seem to be indicating that your radiator is full and your overflow bottle is filled up like it should. There should be no need to top it up then. Doesn't hurt to check the radiator still.

Polarising for LCD's can vary depending on their intended use. Polarising them at a 45 degree angle can help improve their visibility when wearing polarised glasses since polarised glasses are typically vertically polarised to block out most glare. If with your glasses on, you have your LCD go it's darkest when your glasses are horizontal, this would indicate that the clock LCD has been horizontally polarised. If this is the case, you need to have a polarising sheet that is vertically polarised to reverse the LCD.

Great meet tonight. Excellent car wash as well. Definitely my favourite one now.

From the descriptive words you have used, I would say that what you are experiencing is the good ol' placebo effect. There is countless argument about which fuel is better and every car sometimes likes a particular fuel more than others (when comparing between different makes and models). For the Aurion, there is not noticeable difference in power or acceleration when comparing BP Ultimate to Shell V-Power. All that said, BP Ultimate has been said to have additives that no other fuel has. But this is more for a higher quality of fuel and not in terms of improving engine power. Also, I prefer BP Ultimate. Edit: Feeling an 'improvement' instantly is also an indication of the placebo effect. You still have fuel from the last tank that is with the fuel lines which gets used up firstly. Therefore, it takes some distance for the new fuel to get run into the lines etc, and any changes are usually more gradual.

If you mean me, I've said my piece, either people take it on board - or they don't. :P Just don't get me started on rear fog lights... I was replying in response to alex-C. I do agree with you on the fog light opinions though. Doesn't bother me too much though because it seems to be more of a NSW issue. I've already made my comments about the drivers from there. [Flame suit on]

I'd recommend the Pedders over the BC Racing coilovers. You get what you pay for, plus the added support of having a local product is good.

Will provide no benefit or even worse, produce more heat. The A/C condenser is usually located in front of the radiator. As a result, when you turn your A/C on, the head from the compressed A/C gas needs to be disipated (through the condenser). Because the condenser is in front of the radiator, this reduces the cooling efficiency of the system and the fan is turned on to bring it back to how it was basically when the A/C was off. It is a big deal when your radiator is playing up as you can use this to prove that little bit of extra cooling so your car woul hopefully make it to a garage. The heater core in your car is basically another radiator... a heat exchanger. You take heat from the coolant and use it to heat the air that passes through the heater core. As a result, the air coolent loses some heat. Basic physics mate. Misreading the post I would say.

They have REALLY got this the wrong way around. For all Toyota's (except the newer ones... will bring this up after) the red Long Life Coolant (LLC) is a good coolant that will not damage any part of your Toyota genuine cooling system on it's own. For the newer Toyota's, these use the pink Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC). This stuff is even better and there have been people who have done a drain and fill at the recommended 160,000km service interval and have noticed the coolant was still clean and the radiator core was in excellent condition. Using the green coolant where the Toyota Long or Super Long Life Coolant was specified will not be a good idea.

If it's any indication about what I think of the TRD Aurion suspension.... I'm considering getting some Pedders coilovers (there in an FFFFFUUUU to Ray if you read this). TRD was definitely an improvement, but it will most likely leave you wanting more out of them. Best to spend right the first time if you don't like mucking around.

Thanks for reminding me. I forgot to mention in my last post that checking your coolant reservoir is not an indication of your coolant level unless your radiator is full. If your radiator is running lower on coolant, the reservoir can still have a level between empty and full. It isn't always like this, but be aware that there are situation when that can happen. So I'd also check your radiator coolant levels (when the engine is cool obviously).

More specifically, TRD Aurion suspension, or TRD springs (the red ones)? If it's the former, there is one place only to get them.... Toyota. The retail for the springs and shocks are around $1600 in total and can be had for cheaper depending how well you know your dealer. For the latter, you would be looking at ordering them from the States. They aren't a local item.

Nothing is impossible. But that said, things can be rather difficult. I would imagine that such a thing could be performed but it's integrity will be fairly compromised to the point that you're better off getting a new one. This would be even more critical the higher the engine redline is. Correct me if I'm wrong, but for an engine like the 2ZZ, would the cams also have to be of the balanced variety? If this is the case, it's just one more thing that has to be done carefully when repairing. Not worth it in my opinion since if it fails again, the engine may be less lucky. Not to mention that it would be more cost efficient to get new ones compared to paying to get the old ones repaired as well as they can be.

Gotta be specific with the noise. White noise? Buzzing? Usually when speakers blow, they blow open circuit meaning that they won't produce a single sound anymore. Is it in an enclosure? Check to see that it is still solidly connected at it's terminal. If you have another sub/speaker handy, try plugging this into your amp to make sure the amp is not the cause.

I think more than likely we will be at the car wash. Unless it is raining and people decide to go to the station.... luckily not far up the road.

I can't believe that you asked Toyota about whether the centre console affects the car's cooling system. If I was a tech receiving that call, there would sure be a lot of laughing. As has already been mentioned a few times, the console has stuff all effect on your cooling system when it is functioning correctly. I state "correctly" because as has already been mentioned, if your cooling system has somewhat become less efficient while driving, you can adjust your heater to full and put your fan to high to help dissipate some heat in some cases. If you have your heater on full with the fan high, you can get quite a bit of heat exchanging there and this can help towards cooling the engine in an emergency. You even stated this observation yourself when you said: And I guess you learnt wrong by making assumptions: So to not make a fool of yourself, don't keep trying to convince yourself that the console was the cause. If you really wanted to be sure, I'd be checking that your thermostat is in good working order and if you want to be really sure, flush your cooling system (specifically your radiator) to ensure that there is nothing that could block the flow.

From an idealistic point of view, in the first place, it would not be advisable to use lowering springs on the original shocks that were not made for use with lowering springs. But things are never always ideal, so then it is fine to say that use your stock shocks with lowering springs. This is all from the safety standpoint due to the way a spring and shock combo works. Adding in an upgraded sway bar on top of that isn't going to have any further negative effects than that already existing. If anything, it may actually have the potential to reduce those negative effects slightly.

Damn... I should have kept my mouth shut The answer is on the forums here though.

No need to panic mate. What you are experiencing is the air being sucked past the small opening in the throttle body. When the engine is cold, it tends to require a little more air with the higher revs. Since your throttle stays in the same position, it needs to get this air somehow. The throttle body butterfly has a very small gap around the circumference of it in which air can be drawn through. Just like sucking air through a straw quickly, it makes noise. If you put on a CAI or SRI, you will really hear it. 1ZZ's and 2ZZ's always surprised me with the vacuum sound they made which was usually more than other cars.