DJKOR

It has nothing to do with those two factors. Only comes into play when one side of the car experiences more loading than the other (which is what you get when you turn). For reference: Strut bar: Rear Sway bar:

To expand on what I already said, just measure the volume of your current overflow tank and buy an aftermarket one of similar volume. They commonly come in cylinder shapes though which may require a little bit of creativity to mount, but others are available if you search hard enough.

Not as a part made to be a direct fitting replacement for the current overflow tank that you have. You would need to find either a generic aftermarket replacement or one made for another car that has similar dimensions to what you require.

I type with 3 to 4 finger most of the time mate. What you need is Firefox. That way you can turn on the spell checker for when you fill in forms like the reply form.

Sadly I can't blame the previous owner for any stone chips. The day I got my car at 24,000km, the front was like new. Was only driven around Cairns so didn't get much of the kicked up stones etc. All the roadworks around here are the cause of my chips. So many trucks it's not funny. That's what I've noticed as well. Must be the large flat area of the front. I believe the electronic rust-proofing system that Toyota use as their accessory is a CouplerTec unit, but this can vary depending on dealer. More information on these units can be found here: http://www.couplertec.com.au/ Apart from that, there are many other similar products out there so these things are only a click away.

Should bring the Celica out to get some cleaning tips from the pro. See if you're paint will stay on the car

I also take it this is like your standard self-service car wash? As long as it's got a high pressure hose and foam dispenser... I'm set. Will definitely be there since I'm not going to be around for the next 6-7 weeks from this Sunday.

I'm not usually a fan of Lambo doors, but I reckon you;ve manage to pull it off. Which side of town are you from?

Just to confirm, I will still be there for this.... except I may only squeeze in a couple of runs down at Willowbank. I have some cocktails to drink that evening to celebrate my best mate's birthday so yeh. Also will be driving to Melbourne on Sunday... so yeh.

I do not recommend anything mentioned below. I am just stating it... so you have been warned. I have found one of the best glass cleaners I have used is.... Throttle Body Cleaner. I was trying once to clean my shower screen and it had a serious case of water marks all over. I tried everything to clean it up with no success. Out of sheer desperation, I got my can of throttle body cleaner and sprayed the glass and immediately wiped. It cleaned the water marks off with ease. Also smells nice (I love the smell of it.... not healthy I know). Now here is the warning.... it is really corrosive to your paintwork. Get some of this on your paint and you'll be sorry. If I was to ever attempt this on the car, I would stand well away from the car facing the opposite direction and spray the TBC onto a cloth and then use this to clean the parts of the glass you need to as quickly as you can. Also trying to avoid edges due to the potential to ruin your paint.

You should specify how many litres as well for when you fill up, because when people say "per tank", it's not the true tank size in reference. It's usually 10-15 litres less (even more depending on fill point). just :P As well, it has a nice engine note (as well as decent time) accelerating from 0-100. Just a bit odd with the CVT so you don't hear the conventional gear changes. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

It's probably a stupid suggestion, but have you checked your air filter? Dontt exactly know how it could tie in being a cold start only issue... maybe the greater air requirement due to the higher revs when cold and the initial resistance of air flow if really dirty. Just one of those things I wouldn't overlook just in case.

If you have the time, nothing beats personal paint protection. Think of spending some good hours with your car like it's another person (just don't get turned on too much :P ). Speaking of paint protection... there is one thing I wish I had purchased when I got my car. A clear car bra. Now we have had this discussion before and we concluded that it's just like putting plastic over furniture... just not the same. But the front of my car has suffered so much and I am in desperate need of a front respray, including the bonnet. So if I was to recommend paint protection, nothing beats a solution made to reduce stone chips. Electronic rust protection... one would think I (of all people) should seriously consider it, but we'll see how it stand up to the Queensland weather after what it has been through.

I wouldn't necessarily say it's goodd... but that said, it definitely won't hurt. The purpose of the fuse is basically to protect the wiring of the car. As long as the fuse is rated to a current less of that than the cable can carry, then it is fine. Basically, if your LED lights fail, having a smaller fuse isn't necessarily going to save them as the LED's will blow first. As for the HID reversing lights, good idea in concept due to the extra vision, but rather dangerous, especially if you are reverse parallel parking on the side of a road while cars are around.

Looks fan-f*ing-tastic there Lee. I absolutely love the side angle shot. The black lip makes your tires look nice and fat. I love that look.

I feel embarrassed performing this procedure at the drags (and the one time I was at the track), because all I could think of is the guy behind me thinking "WTF is he doing?".

New exhausts can tend to produce a bit of smoke sometimes until they carbon up on the inside (the note also slightly varies when this happens as well), and can also produce a sulphur like smell. I would personally reset your ECU though to make sure everything starts from scratch with your new exhaust. To do this, unplug battery (for 20 mins to be on the safe side) then plug the battery back in and turn your car on. Then let idle with the accessories off for a good 10 minutes, turn the engine off then on again and give it a hard drive.

Well I guess you found the iGO8 download so no need to answer that one... and that is the latest version that I have obtained myself. I am not sure if a newer version is available, but I would imagine there would be already. It's a bit of a process to find the right files for it though and it's not something I have had time to look into lately. As for the wiring, as they say "never assume or you'll make an a55 of you and me". It is possible that the wiring does differ from the American Gen 6 Camry service manuals so it is always a good idea to test and check firstly. As for my head unit, it is going perfectly fine. No issues have sprung up that aren't part of the issues with the design of the head unit that were found in the first place. My head unit runs Windows CE 4.2.

I completely agree with this statement. I was going to say this earlier but in that time is was prime feeding time for the trolls so I withheld my statements. I was also going to add that having fog lights on during clear conditions can actually reduce your own visibility. The reason for this is that headlights have that gap between the front of the car and the point in which the beam hits the road. Because your eyes see things based on illumination (obviously) having the beam extend out like that means your eyes will be more sensitive and therefore see things better up further where the headlights are. Now when you turn your fog lights on, this puts a fair amount of light in that section between the car and where the low beam headlights hit the road. As this are of light is closer, it tends to be a little brighter and what you get here is your eyes becoming more sensitive to the section illuminated by the fog lights. This means a larger portion of your visibility is closer to the car, rather than further out when the fog lights are off. But most people think that because things appear brighter for their eyes, their visibility must be improved. When in fact, this isn't exactly the case. Anyways, that's enough troll feed for now. And by the way, the LED DRL fog light idea is a great idea because like you said, people only really seem to do it for the looks.

My guess is that Luis just couldn't stick around to monitor the forums here (judging from the time it took to sometimes get a reply) so they canned the whole area all together.

Hey Ash. Guess who's going to have hybrid tail lights in Brisbane first? :lol: :P Edit: But considering that for stuff like this, time never really bothers you, this statement isn't as fun as I'd like it to be.

That CRC Glass Cleaner is also really good stuff. When I clean glass, I either use that or a 50/50 mix of metho and water.

There are many red wires when it comes to car wiring. They are usually bunched together with electrical tape or in cable look to identify which component they belong to, but this is basically for the guys assembling the car. The only way to tell if it is for the head unit or not is to try and follow it to the front or rear of the car to see where it is heading. It would be too much of an unnecessary hassle to test each one to see what they are for because chances are, it's going to be +12v for something. With that amount of effort, you are better off just installing the line out converter directly behind the head unit. Would be much easier then. Otherwise, if you can get access to your rear speakers easily, then that's an ideal place to tap it from. Basically just look at your rear speakers and see if you can take the trim off from around it.

Depends on how you define driving with the "same temperament" I get what you mean though. For the front strut brace, this will have no change on your tire wear as it's just there to stop chassis flex at the front. As for the rear sway bar, I would say that it would only the slightest amount (in other words, you would never notice it or probably even be able to measure it) improve tire wear in the way of a more even wear (this then equates to a greater tire wear... but read on). The reason for this is say when you take a corner and your weight shifts to one side. The RSB will try to apply force to the opposite side to balance out the body roll. As a result, the other side which would usually experience less force on the tire as you take the corner, will now experience a slightly greater force. And then it goes, the more force the tire experiences, the more it will wear. But as I said, it's something that is so small that you wouldn't ever notice it.

Well that discussion started to go a little off-topic in an on-topic sort of way. Very valid points made there though. Realistically though, the 2GR is a little 'dated' but from a design perspective, it has proven to work time and time again so it's no surprise that Toyota hasn't updated it yet. At the end of the day, it's intended to be a race engine (with the exception of Lotus).