DJKOR

Not being able to come onto the forums during the day, only to come home and have pages of threads with new posts to go though.

I thought you would be well aware of this Steven having all that electronic knowledge that you have shared on the boards. It's normal operation due to the inverter, which is primarily what the ballast is. During the start-up phase, the ballast needs to output a higher voltage for the arc to establish and as the arc stabilises, this voltage is reduced and the current is increased. The noise is produced by the transistors in there when they are turning the extra-low voltage DC to low voltage AC. The 55W lamps need a bit more power, so as a result, will produce a more noticable high pitch noise.

Well it sounded great Flutter FTW as well. Yeah Ray. With your coilovers you are now unstopable in those corners. There were some corners where I was really fighting Newtons Laws to keep up with you.

Hell yeah Evan... get some straight cut gears, hehehe: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

You said it yourself: If the new wheel nuts are too big/small for your current wheel brace in the boot, then this would be a situation where the fit kit would be needed.

It sure did. Sweet sound when it hit lift as well. But DAMN that MR-S was phat (literally).

Had my wheel balances checked because I was getting a really bad vibration through the steering wheel. Balance was good in general... unfortunately it was just because my tires are close to the end of their life and this time around, they worn as such so that they have created some imbalance. Had the two best ones moved to the front and problem solved. Rear is more forgiving to have the less 'balanced' tires. And despite being nearly worn out.... they still grip Nebo like they always have. Also washed her to get rid of all the dirt caused by rain over the last week... only to do a Nebo run and get some bugs on her again. Today will be picking up my stuff from Toyota (strainer, gasket, etc) so I can change my transmission fluid soon.

Hehehe. In the time you were away from us... you must have really gone missing A new facelift Aurion has been released and sport new tail lights with the Sportivo having a clear version:

David (SupaTouring) has provided this answer before for a thread on the Aurion boards. Same deal really: The "kit" has items for removing the wheel nuts if the nut hex is a different size to standard as was the case with my gen4 Camry with the GTP 17x7 wheels. The nuts for those were 19mm instead of 21mm so a wheel brace was included along with a piece of felt to protect the wheel when in the boot and I think it also came with another bolt to hold the spare wheel down in the boot. So really the kit is to give you any extra items to remove or store the accessory wheels from/in the car. Toyota accessory wheels that I have bought have always come with wheel nuts, centre caps and valves

Tail light covers? Do you mean tint film?

A couple more rants: - Traffic lights that go red when there is no traffic around and/or you are the only one on the road. - People that take forever to use the ATM ffs.

Was a good meet guys. Was nice to see some new faces from interstate. Thanks for the surprise Nebo run as well Ray... though secretly I was wanting to go in the first place to show Dean what a nice road it is. How convenient

Plugging in your figures, you will find this: Now this is where I will mention that despite the 235/45R17 tire seeming to be the better choice due to the minimal change in overall diameter, you have to remember that a 235 wide tire is in fact best suited to a 17 inch wheel that is around 8 inches in width. This choice in tire would not be good for a 7 inch wide wheel which is a pretty common 17 inch wheel width (and the same with the Vortex wheels as you have posted).

More like an RPG or something.

For the Aurion, buying one of those HID kits can actually be fitted as simple as that. Just put the lamps in, mount the ballasts, connect the wire and you're set. Only thing that required a bit of modification due to the manufacturing specifications are the base of the lamps. The tabs on them just needed a quick trim. That's just a basic installation though. You can do some further modification to get it to suit your needs and or standards. But from a plug-and-play point of view, the kits basically are that.

ha doesn't know how to turn of ESP I seen that too, if you read further on, someone does say that it CAN be turned off. Was just about to say. It's not their 'native' type of car anyways. It's a question even asked by owners of an Aurion. It was just good to read that they understand that despite being the family type of car it is, it can still pull its own weight. They did go off into a bit of a round argument, but they handled that quite well for a forum as such and didn't let it turn into a s*** fight.

It's like asking why one particular product cost X amount in one store when another store offers the exact same product for X amount cheaper. It's all about trying to get profit where they can. I would say that the $41 lamps are no different to the $18.99 ones. I have handled many sets of eBay HID's and have drawn this conclusion based on that. Chances are, an expensive pair like those listed at $149, are just going to be of equivalent quality as well. Maybe the base may be of a slightly higher quality, but it's the lamp that really matters. They may try to use reasoning like "Bosch made" or "Philips made", but these are only possible if they start with an OEM Philips or Bosch lamp in a D2/D4 base, remove the OEM base, and fit it into a H11 base etc. These lamps would definitely justify the cost (in which you would be looking at around $149 per bulb), but it's not something that is commonly done and you can never guarantee that you are getting a true Philips/Bosch lamp. One key indicator though that they are trying to rip you off when saying they use a Philips or Bosch lamp is the colour temperature. If they offer their "Philips/Bosch" lamps in anything greater than 6000k... then treat it as a scam. No OEM HID is made with a colour temperature greater than 6000k. The best way for me to put this is that it's ultimately up to you what you want to spend. In my opinion, in the end, all you are paying for is peace of mind while the other guy profits. I currently have a pair of lamps in my Aurion that are equal to those listed for $18.99 (the entire cost of my HID kit was $74 shipped). I have had these in my Aurion for 23 months with a lot of night driving and experiencing a fair amount of bumps while operating (which can reduce their life). There lamps are still going strong, and I would consider them again. As well, here is some other reply I made that you may want to read. It mostly focuses on the ballasts, but the lamps also have to be up to a decent standard: In other words, if the kit wasn't up to a good standard, either your bulbs will not ignite, or they will burn out really fast. The thing most people don't realise here is what is involved in HID lighting technology. First you have the lamp which involves a specific gas held under pressure inside the bulb with electrodes on either end that are spaced apart at the right distance, then you have a ballast to drive it which needs to run as per specification to do the job right. There isn't too much room to get either of these things wrong, and if you did, it's going to result in a kit that wears out really really fast. For those with a more technical mind and want to read up about the HID ballast, here is something for you to read: Analysis and Design of High-Intensity-Discharge Lamp Ballast for Automotive Headlamp (Thesis - Yongxuan Hu.pdf)

Some places will accept your old wheels together with tires but the price they will buy them off you for may not end up being much at all because in the end, they still need to sell them and make a little profit.

I must say, at least the discussion over there is quite civilised. They are understanding the market for the Aurion and that it is definitely not a granny car in terms of it's output. Edit: LOL quote for the negatives of the two:

I would assume you are referring to the H11 retrofit style right? Unless you had some Presara headlight swap I'm unaware about. Anyways, 1.5 years is an okay life for automotive use HID's that aren't like $400 per lamp. If I were to get replacement, I would go eBay: eBay - HID Xenon Replacement Bulbs Kit H1 H4 H7 H11 9006 9007 .... $18.99 shipped. This is what I did when I changed my 8000k lamps to 10,000k on my old Camry. Want a seller with more positive reviews? eBay - 2 x 35W HID XENON BULB REPLACEMENT H10 H11 H13 880/881 ... $25.99 shipped, or eBay - HID XENON REPLACEMENT BULBS H1 H3 H7 9005 9006 H11 35W ... $40 shipped, or eBay - HID XENON REPLACEMENT 2 BULBS H1 H3 H7 H9 H11 9005 9006 ... $41 shipped. Up to you what you want to spend really. The quality of the product is pretty much going to be the same.

I will add to this thread what I have done to other threads with the same question. If you want to find the effects it will have on your speedo etc, use an online calculator like the following. This allows you to compare multiple tire/wheel sizes to help choose the right one: 1010 Tires: Tire Size Calculator

Without looking at it myself, I can't really think of what else I can advise you of. From my memory on how my old Camry worked, the low beams were a dual filament H4 bulb with an additional H1 high beam (something the American models didn't have). It would appear yours is the same. Remembering how it operates, when you have your low beams on, only one filament of the H4 bulb should be illuminated; the one at the front with the metal shroud around it. When you switch on the high beams, the low beam filament should turn off and the other filament towards the base of the bulb should then illuminate. If one or both of these filaments illuminated, then the secondary high beams would activate. If both filaments were blown, then the secondary high beams would not work. Apart from that, the only other faults would be either fuse/relay faults (if I recall correctly, the secondary high beam relay was located on the inside of my Camry and wasn't really labelled), switch issues (not common), or even worse, burnt out wiring due to higher wattage bulbs. Yours seems to be playing a bit of mix and match from the sounds of things. I'm not good with written instructions since I'm a hands on person and something like this needs a good look at.

Seems to be quite the opposite in Brisbane. A lot of roads here are improving and don't seem to have any issues with the lights not functioning properly. Having driven in Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Canberra, Adelaide, and Darwin, I would say that Sydney roads are pretty crap.

Um, LOL doesn't really come to mind (unless you laugh at the fact she did this on camera) but I didn't think it completely qualifies for the fail thread since the idea itself was kind of smart. Since this thread already has the possibly NSFW in the title, this can go here: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

I'll be there as per usual. Gotta say hi to Wulfkind and Mrs Wulfkind. Okay, that's the last one from me. If you were to turn up, would we be seeing the Soarer still?