DJKOR

u need to be more specific to narrow down your issue. Do you get this sound the moment after it turns over, or does it start with no issues then when you first accelerate off, it sounds like it's 'choking'?

Like that... but half the spokes . I like simple looking 5 spoke designs. Unfortunately, you can only go so simple with the Aurion before it doesn't work. It requires a bit of complexity. Basically though, the types of wheels I like are ones like this: (as well: http://img.worldcarfans.com/2009/10/large/9800005.jpg) or even this (in terms of open-ness): In the end, it's up to you what you see is stylish according to your own standard. If I was to state my preferences, it would be either performance oriented 19 inch wheels preferably with a flat face to give them a larger look, or huge 21 inch dished rims for style (as DRE has now set the standard). Dish doesn't necessarily mean ricey. With the right combination, it can look really sporty. Have a look at Jeff's (HiddenTaco), or Ash's (SecaBoy):

It is your ABS self-test. This will apply to you as well:

I will repeat my words on this one for simplicity sake (in a thread referring to the anti-glare coating on the lamp): When combined with a properly designed reflector, they actually work quite well. The problem here is, this was for a headlight design by Mecedes from a little while back. Now manufacturers of these kits think that they can utilise it to make sales and don't realise that the glare shield has to be placed appropriately at the very least for it work. Then comes the issue of the reflector housing that it goes in, which they can't cater for everyone. Edit: For example, these lamps here are H7 and you can see where the shield in in relation to the locating tab: Not all cars that have H7 bulbs have the locating tab at the bottom. Some have it on the side (either 45 or 90 degrees to the vertical)... or even worse, the top. If the locating tab was at the top, so would the glare shield. This would result in lower light output and glare problems still there. A good example of how most of these are just for marketing, they state on their product listing: When in fact this statement is incorrect as the glare is produced by light emitted from the bottom side of the lamp reflecting on the bottom half of the reflector upwards towards anything in front. Since the H11 placement is pretty universal however, it would be harder to mess up the glare shield placement in terms of having to be on the bottom, but the first issue still exists in that the reflector wasn't designed with this in consideration. In other words, it probably will not work and is a waste of money.

Personally I think the design is a little too cluttered, but that is my own personal opinion since I like a more open look. I think if you are going to get these, you would have to get them in 19 inch as the bare minimum (I would like to say 20 inch though) to give it the best look. Also as well, "Styles" on the boards here had this set on his Aurion. He had the 18 inch ones, but this should give you an idea: BTW, here's the pic of t

I was curious about what kind of zoom you get out of these and came across this site which is reviewing the 1200mm version. Either way, there is a comparison part if you scroll down and the amount you can see with such a lens is quite crazy... but then again it's size is crazy as well. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews...ens-Review.aspx

I got told by an exhaust shop that they could not fit it because they have tried already, etc etc. I was quite annoyed when they told me that. So I wen't home and took one muffler off to see how it would fit. As I originally thought, there was more than enough room under there, so I went to another exhaust shop and they fitted it for me without a problem. Only scraped lightly on two occasions due to pulling out of a driveway too fast.

Best way to look at it is that you have a figure which is better than an estimation. Even if it isn't 100% correct, it's still a figure to work from. And as I said, with the amount of variation possible from the car end of things, your motor may be worked harder and the ECU may have learnt from that. I think the ECU's in these things play a bit of a role here since they added all this Adaptive A.I and whatnot to it. But I'm a believer in the 1/4 mile dyno. Having a big dyno figure is all well and good, but is that really power that the car is putting down.

Lets add some Cyanide & Happiness to the mix: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!All their other short clips are here: http://www.youtube.com/user/ExplosmEntertainment

Are you referring to the cavity on the left hand side that is the same area (but on the opposite side) as the jack (ie. not the spare wheel well itself)? If so, one thing to look at is firstly to make sure all grommets and plugs there are in place. Otherwise, it could be your boot seal, but more than likely, you would end up with some damp carpet as a result. If you can't pin it down, the best way would be to strip the interior of the boot and look around for any water marks that can indicate where it has come from.

Well I guess the question is if the American Matrix XRS has the same engine bay size as the Australian ZRE Corolla sedan.... and then if the sedan has the same engine bay size as the hatch. If yes, then it would be possible:

Go the oval Varex

Changing the mesh is easy to DIY. You can easily obtain it from most auto stores like Autobarn for under $20 for a large piece. You simply cut it to shape and attach it to the frame of the grill. It is simply held on with cable ties all around.

If no caption exists, Kyle is guaranteed to find an offensive one.

that a good thing or bad? :P Bad. Takes so much time to trawl through everything, and also feels bad posting late on new posts.

Firstly, I wouldn't be defining it as a problem just yet. Is it really loud or just one of those ambient noises? I've found that for cars that I've driven with an automatic transmission (older Commodores had the most noticeable), there have usually been some vacuum/hissing kind of sounds when the transmission was in gear, especially reverse. I've never bothered to find out what it is exactly, but I figured it was something to do with the automatic transmission and/or torque converter and I believe this is just to do with normal operation. My Aurion does make some slight hissing like noises when reverse is engaged. Maybe it's something to do with the pump or the fluid moving through the torque converter. If it is something fairly loud and really abnormal, then I would either try and find the source of the noise yourself, or get it checked out. Someone with a more mechanical mind may be able to comment on this because I'm not overly mechanically minded.

This seems similar to this thing: The Superest Anyways, in response to the above: Why hide when you can show your pride.

Use the following numbers for reference and confirm with a Toyota spare parts department before purchasing: Right side: 42410-52020; HUB & BEARING ASSY, REAR AXLE, RH 42450-52020; HUB & BEARING ASSY, REAR AXLE, RH (WITH ABS) Left side: 42410-52021; HUB & BEARING ASSY, REAR AXLE, LH 42450-52021; HUB & BEARING ASSY, REAR AXLE, LH (WITH ABS)

I'm a +1 for the HPX pads as well. Plus Greg is really easy to deal with. And if you live around Brisbane and order in the morning, you can usually get them in the afternoon.

Probably could do with a clearer font and text replacement for the URL. And the burn rubber? Bloody Commonwhore driver jokes.

I think any car that Northy was to drive would be a weapon. I'm definitely there. Then I don't need to wash my car before the meet.

Looking great there Lee. Can't wait to see your girl wearing them. Hehehe. I guess first impressions do last.

The kit is completely plug and play (information page here). You will get your hands slightly dirty, but any guy should enjoy that. All bits and pieces come with it and it would have to have no issues with the sensors otherwise they wouldn't be selling it. If you want to see their installation guide for it, look here: http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/69-8611_inst.pdf Also be prepared to add another AUD$360 to your credit card on top of the $3k you have charged already :P Your choice mate

No worries. Same here mate. I guess I've just been pretty curious all my life to read up about stuff that is usually not what others know. It then feels good to teach others.

In my opinion, removing the resonator completely and putting a low restriction straight through muffler on the rear is going to result in a raspiness in the higher revs. Then the topic of cabin drone comes into play, so personally I would recommend to still use a resonator, but use another type other than stock if you want to get more noise out of it. Removing your resonator and putting straight through mufflers on the rear is not going to give you such a high gain as Darius was pointing out (13-14kW). I'm not trying to put your figure down, but without a before and after comparison of the same vehicle, this is not an indicated gain. There can be minor differences in engines that come off a production line, and some can in fact put out that little bit more power than other. Not to mention the dyno that is doing the reading can also have variations. There have been many people with the V6 Camry in the States trying different combinations of exhaust setups including removing the resonator, and there has been no progress with getting more noticeable power from a simple cat-back alone. Changing the y-pipe at the front though seems to be where gains could be made though.... but no one has done a proper before and after dyno. So far, the 1/4 mile still seems to be a good indication of power. On a side note, with just my rear mufflers replaced and Rowan having his rear mufflers changed and stock resonator removed, we still obtained similar 1/4 mile trap speeds indicating similar power-to-weight since our cars would have pretty much have been the same weight at the time. And as you have gathered, leave the cat on since it is quite a good flowing cat in the first place, and for the amount that you can be defected for, it's not worth it.