DJKOR

Sounds like you are now getting the issue described here: ZR6 Radio display panel

That's usually a good idea as well because if you go to the right one, they will have a select range on show that you can switch between to hear how they sound like. They may have ones there you will prefer instead.

I think you are worrying about something that is part of normal operation. Try this (except replace reverse with drive):

The cornering ability of your car doesn't just come from the suspension alone. In my opinion, trying to expect to be able to make your Aurion take corners better approaching that of a WRX etc is a bit of an ask. You're talking about a different sized wheelbase coupled with different weights which can affect how the car feels during a turn. I'm not saying you can't make the Aurion take corners better... in fact, with stock Sportivo suspension and Ultra Racing bracing you can take corners at about the same speed as a WRX etc (excluding track conditions). I'm just saying that you can't really expect miracles. The feel of it is always going to be completely different because of the physics of the car itself. As for the coilover (when referring to the common coilover that everyone thinks about) vs. springs discussion, I would personally go for good springs tied in with some quality aftermarket shocks. One good combination to go for is King Springs with Koni shocks. You can get Koni adjustable that give you control like just like a coilover minus the height and camber adjustments. Getting something like this though requires a bit of modification to your existing struts or to another pair that you can obtain. An interesting read as well is in the post that SupaTouing had posted over here. One crucial thing you can't forget, regardless of whether you change your suspension or not, is to add a front strut brace and upgrading your rear sway bar. These two things alone will help improve your cornering even on stock suspension. The idea here is to reduce your body roll. As well as this, your maximum cornering ability is only going to be limited by the grip you have on the road, so make sure you spend some extra money and get yourself a good set of grippy shoes. If you haven't worked with the suspension on your car before, I really wouldn't recommend fitting springs yourself. The process itself is relatively easy, but it's up to you to make that call. To get an idea of what happens in the process, have a look at the Suspension service manual from page 15 onwards. Either way, you are going to have to pay for a 4-wheel alignment after changing your suspension so if you can a shop to change your suspension over for a reasonable cost, it may just work out easier for you overall to get a shop to do it for you. Swapping out to coilovers is easier though as there is no need to deal with spring compressors etc, but you have to make sure that you get everything reasonably even if you have to drive a little ways to get somewhere that can perform a wheel alignment for you. But generally, I'd just say that if you don't feel confident, then don't do it yourself.

Okay... I took my head unit out of storage for some earlier tests so I will be able to answer this question more accurately. While I had it out, I decided to pull it apart and have a look at the amplifier that is inside it. The amplifier is an STMicroelectronics TDA7384 4 x 35W Quad Bridge Car Radio Amplifier. As I previously said though, just because this amplifier can push up to about 35W, it doesn't mean this signal is going to be clean. Just a photo of the amplifier for reference: And just for fun while I was at it... something I had always been curious about the workings of: <div>Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!</div><object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value=" <embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>

I think this is the appropriate place for this: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Most of the time. If you open my spreadsheet in the link at the top of my post, it lists the fuel that I filled up with at the time.

Okay, in the interests of answering this question and satisfying my own curiosity, I took my head unit out of storage and set it up to do a few tests, willing to accept any damages that may occur. Hey Shane, I completely see where you are coming from with respect to your experience, knowledge and habits. Microcontrollers weren't really my strong point with electronics so it's good to have someone here that knows what they are talking about. The only thing I saw interesting with the design of the Auxiliary module is that there is no connection to the body ground in it. All basically it connects to the harness/head unit with just 4 cables as specified in your first post: This would lead me to make the assumption that 'AUXI' grounds directly to the signal ground. This in fact is correct as per my tests below. This essentially makes it easier for everything to be connected internally and more importantly, means that the AUX mode will only be enabled when the external source is plugged in for that added convenience. What I didn't expect is that the Auxiliary module actually does have a resistor in it between 'AUXI' and 'ASGN'. This would have to be the case because it wouldn't work otherwise. Setting up my head unit, I first tried grounding AUXI to the body ground through a 1k resistor. As to be expected, the AUX mode could be selected. Then I changed to a 2k resistor keeping the same ground point and found that the AUX mode could still be selected. I then repeated these tests with the same resistors but grounding through the signal ground instead. The same outcome was achieved. After this, I then tested by grounding AUXI to the body ground directly. When this was done, the AUX mode could not be selected. I also tried grounding AUXI to the signal ground instead but still could not select the AUX mode. After then changing back to the body ground and leaving it connected for a few minutes, I then put the resistor back in and it was then able to change modes. So essentially I have just confirmed that my head unit was not damaged by not putting a resistor in. I would imagine that due to production line manufacturing that each head unit should be the same meaning that if you accidentally short AUXI to ground or put in too low of a resistor value, no damage should occur. This is just an assumption though, but to be completely safe... make sure you put a resistor in and don't connect direct to ground just to be on the safe side. So there... the resistor is definitely needed. Hey Neil. I'm not sure if this would be a correct assumption, but considering that I managed to get mine to switch to AUX mode using a 2k resistor between ground with the input voltage at 13.89 volts, I would imagine that a 1k resistor should be fine most cases? AUX mode success:

Edit: Post removed due to incomplete answer. Thorough answer provided below.

Watch out with the photo quoting there :P Anyways, a camera that seems to be a good fit would be the one specified in the thread here: Toyota Aurion Reversing Camera Installation

The purpose of the thread was to get opinions. It just happens to be that most of us aren't liking it. Much like you have the opinion of thinking that we are a bit harsh on the comments

The resistor is there to make the head unit recognise there is an auxiliary source there. If you have a look at the first post again, you will actually see that it answers your question:

Well now that you are going to run your speakers off an amplifier, you can now choose a 2 ohm speaker. This will give you a higher power output.

I'm not sure about the maximum depth so I can't comment about fit, but I do have the following to say. Personally I would not run 2 ohm speakers directly from the head unit unless it is made to run with them. 2 ohm speakers will cause the amplifier of the head unit to run hotter than normal and without sufficient cooling (which can be difficult in car), can shorten the life of the head unit. So I would rule out options 1 and 3. Now to choose from options 2 and 4, I would choose option 4 if you want to get better frequency response (has a wider frequency range) or option 2 if you want to have that slightest bit more efficiency which would translate to slightly better volume.

These guys are insane: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Annoying Things To Do On An Elevator: 1) CRACK open your briefcase or handbag, peer Inside and ask "Got enough air in there?" 2) STAND silent and motionless in the corner facing the wall without getting off. 3) WHEN arriving at your floor, grunt and strain to yank the doors open, then act as if you're embarrassed when they open themselves. 4) GREET everyone with a warm handshake and ask him or her to call you Admiral. 5) MEOW occasionally. 6) STARE At another passenger for a while. Then announce in horror: "You're one of THEM" - and back away slowly 7) SAY -DING at each floor. 8) SAY "I wonder what all these do?" And push all the red buttons. 9) MAKE explosion noises when anyone presses a button. 10) STARE, grinning at another passenger for a while, then announce: "I have new socks on." 11) WHEN the elevator is silent, look around and ask: "Is that your beeper?" 12) TRY to make personal calls on the emergency phone. 13) DRAW a little square on the floor with chalk and announce to the other passengers: "This is my personal space." 14) WHEN there's only one other person in the elevator, tap them on the shoulder, then pretend it wasn't you. 15) PUSH the buttons and pretend they give you a shock. Smile, and go back for more. 16) ASK if you can push the button for other people but push the wrong ones. 17) HOLD the doors open and say you're waiting for your friend. After a while, let the doors close and say "Hi Greg, How's your day been?" 18) DROP a pen and wail until someone reaches to help pick it up, then scream: "That's mine!" 19) BRING a camera and take pictures of everyone in the lift. 20) PRETEND you're a flight attendant and review emergency procedures and exits with the Passengers. 21) SWAT at flies that don't exist. 22) CALL out "Group hug" then enforce it.

I hate it. Each to their own though. I personally hate it because I don't think it flows properly with the design of the car. Edit: Funny how he mentions "biggest rims that can be fitted" for his 19 inch wheels. Bit over the top on the price as well just because he says it's the "Best looking ZR6 on the road".

This is true, but those that know what they are doing can save quite a bit of money I would imagine.

Well it looks like all my interstate driving has had a little bit of an influence on my average fuel consumption. Finally cracked into the 10's again. Not that drastic of an influence because I don't exactly drive sedately, but it's an improvement nevertheless. Anyway, here are the current figures: Aurion Fuel Consumption (Excel Spreadsheet) - At 4010km, my total fuel used was 417.14L and my average fuel consumption was 10.4L/100km - At 8385km, my total fuel used was 907.83L and my average fuel consumption was 10.8L/100km - At 12781km, my total fuel used was 1420.46L and my average fuel consumption was 11.1L/100km - At 15716km, my total fuel used was 1772.86L and my average fuel consumption was 11.28L/100km - At 18333km, my total fuel used was 2089.2L and my average fuel consumption was 11.4L/100km - At 21099km, my total fuel used was 2432.43L and my average fuel consumption was 11.53L/100km - At 22735km, my total fuel used was 2635.44L and my average fuel consumption was 11.59L/100km - At 24285km, my total fuel used was 2833.42L and my average fuel consumption was 11.67L/100km - At 30048km, my total fuel used was 3503.85L and my average fuel consumption was 11.66L/100km - At 34235km, my total fuel used was 3951.27L and my average fuel consumption was 11.54L/100km - At 38597km, my total fuel used was 4457.73L and my average fuel consumption was 11.55L/100km - At 49843km, my total fuel used was 5712.31L and my average fuel consumption was 11.46L/100km - At 64720km, my total fuel used was 7126.14L and my average fuel consumption was 10.98L/100km

Removed the centre console and stereo (for like the 100th time), and relocated my AUX input cable from my glove box to the pocket in front of the centre console box. Still retained my connection point inside the glove box for other AUX items. Also re-did some wiring so I have a 1.2A USB power outlet in the car now to charge stuff.

You should specify the primary price range you are looking at. If I was to suggest one, you would be looking at around $1000-$1500. They do get as cheap as like around $400, but with a price range, we can give recommendations that suit your budget.

That is correct. Well maybe not the exact same one, but that will work. If you go to Jaycar, you can get some of this: FIG 8 - OFC Shielded Audio Cable Cable used in step 1? I'd just wire the resistor directly to the plug. For your purpose, just use something like this: 3 Pin MULTI Pin Plug / Socket As for the pins to go into the socket that connect to the head unit, I'm not sure of which size is needed so the OP will need to comment on that. A basic carbon/metal film 1/4 to 1/2 watt resistor will do the trick. Such as this one: 1K0ohm 1/2 Watt 1% Metal Film Resistors - Pk.8 That is correct. There is no existing cables and you only add them.

As much as I really think each younger generation is going downhill, I have to laugh at this guy's revenge.

I'm not sure if I got the right terminology on that one, but pinging has to do with loading an engine up at lower RPM's. Yes it says unleaded on the petrol tank lid, but using premium can help reduce pinging/knocking on cars that experience it due to it's higher octane. Have you tried to put your foot down more then to force it to drop down a gear? By trying to keep the RPM's lower, you can be making it more difficult for the car to climb the hill depending on the grade. Don't be afraid to get those RPM's higher to help you climb it. See if that makes a difference.

The cost of basic amplifier components these days is barely anything. I wouldn't be surprised if the stock head unit can push between 25 and 40 watts just because of the components needed for it. Remembering, even if it did push high figures, it doesn't mean that it's going to be a clean signal. If I ever get the patience, I will test my stock head unit. Either way, it's not going to be enough to make use of decent aftermarket speakers.