DJKOR

Can you look at the attached diagram and point out where you believe it fell off from? There doesn't appear to be one for that specific belt. Since the belt forms a triangular loop, the alternator is where tension on the belt is adjusted from:

I would highly advise against it. You would be pretty much just wasting that oil change. Think about it, the oil filter is there to filter out suspended particles in the oil. As with any other filter, it's flow is reduced as it becomes more and more full. If you just change the oil, and the filter is starting to get 'full' you are going to run the risk of damaging something due to the lower rate of flow.

I don't think there is ever an improper age to take your car to the dealership. It's just like a workshop that's speciality is Toyota. I'm sure that there are people out there who would take it to the appropriate dealership for the entire life of the car. It's just that they charge so much for service when compared to other garages or DIY alternatives, which is why one would most likely steer clear of them when they can. I'm only taking mine to Toyota until the warranty is up, then it's DIY for me. ------- Now my stupid question time. I've noticed, mainly at slow speeds because things are quieter and smoother, but sometimes when I need to slow to a stop while travelling along a curve in the road whilst travelling initially at something like 30-40km/h, I can feel my brake pedal 'tap' a couple of times and if I listen carefully enough, I can hear the ABS actuator making that tapping noise at the same time. When this has happened, I know that I am applying way less force than that is required to lock up the wheels and traction is still strong as well. I've concluded that this is probably the EBD (Electronic Brake force Distribution) doing it's job. Would I be correct in saying that? Or because of the tapping action, would it more likely be said to be VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) working to keep everything rolling at the right rate before any slip occurs. ... Or is this a sign for other potential problems?

Lets not open up this can of worms again. Every time I hear the word 'Varex', I imagine a massive argument that follows.

I rate the rattling parcel shelf up there with watching a movie and getting to the quiet dialogue parts and you can hear the person next to you breathing. So any alternatives planned, or just going to remove it completely like I was thinking, then getting something to make it look neat.

Would be pretty easy to do I reckon. You would be changing the entire inside section of the steering column. So long as the wreckers charge what they would for a basic steering column without knowing that it is probably an expensive part.

very true. and with that, youd most likely be back to square one as it wouldnt increase steering feedback or handling, even though it is a little wider. If you step up the width of the tire and step down the profile, you aren't making that big of a difference. I just did that lately with my Aurion on it's 7 inch wide 17 inch rims. I have had not lost any ride quality, feedback, or handling. Before (215/55R17): After (225/50R17):

I wouldn't get your hopes up however (for a keyless ignition). Sure a Smart Entry system would be handy, but you still need to use your key on the ignition. The one key feature that you need to have on a car that has a keyless ignition is an electronic steering wheel lock. On cars without a keyless ignition, the steering wheel lock is a spring loaded mechanism that is integrated into the key tumbler. Once your key is removed, if you turn your steering wheel, it will eventually lock. Over-riding this without a key is not quite the easiest thing around. It can be done, but it's either pretty messy, or it will disable the lock completely. Had to do that on a keyless ignition project for my Carmy.

Cheap hey? For an oil cap. That's an extra 10kW at the wheels right there.

Does it still feel the same as before, or does it drive rougher than usual? If it still drives the same, one thing I like to check first is your temperature needle. Usually during normal operation, it will sit around the mid-way mark. Have you noticed lately that it is sitting lower than usual (as in 1/4, etc)? If so, that can indicate a stuck open thermostat or a busted coolant temperature sensor. Those two factors can lead to much higher fuel consumption. That is just one issue. I'm sure many others here will post others and the diagnosis that comes with them.

Of course. A muffler shop would just lob off the pipework that is attached to it and create a new join to put it on your car.

Yeah, the music really doesn't sound so clean with the parcel shelf rattling. I am yet to do anything about mine. Mainly because I am always so lazy. As for taking the parcel shelf off, you will need to take those grey covers off the c-pillars. They 'lock' into the side of the parcel shelf so there is no way around it. Don't be surprised is a clip or two fall off and down into the boot area. This may then be followed by swearing of all sorts because you need to take the trim out of your boot to find them depending on where they fall. Once those are off, you can remove the parcel shelf by starting on the two sides and then working on lifting up the front edge. You can do this with the rear of the seat still attached (minus the head rests). Then you slide the parcel shelf forward (as pull it towards the front of the car) and work on taking it out. Need to loosen the seat belts a bit. The parcel shelf will still remain attached by the seat belts this way.

That does look quite nice there VF-X. Question is though, what tires is he running. He may be fine in Malaysia, but that could be unroadworthy over here. More to gawk over:

I know. I was just quoting him because: a) he said he had his doubts, and b) in that post he set up the exact scenario that was tested.

Say what: And I've been saying that for ages... Guankah, go post that info in the thread where they were hanging $#!T on me please. :P Note that the CES CAI dyno also has a CES catback. Otherwise I would expect it to be just slightly higher than the other 2 with the same exhaust. Gav.

Love the progress on the Hilux mate. I LOL'ed at the second photo showing the Aurion. It looks like a toy car.

But then your Rolla doesn't require a tire rating of at least 93Y. Edit: The narrowest profile tire you can currently get for a 22 inch wheel is a 25mm profile. In terms of width, the smallest width for a 25 profile tire is 275mm. This wheel and tire combination will lead to an overall diameter that is 40mm larger than the stock TRD wheels. You will start to get that Matchbox car effect, and lowering it will lead to serious scrubbing.

You're telling me. My car and I just love to drive hard.

That's an interesting issue you've got there. I guess it could have been a once off manufacturing defect.

Sure they will fit. As long as they aren't too wide (9 inch would preferably be the widest), however.... .... you need to find tires that will keep the overall rolling circumference close to stock AND be load rated. With those two factors.... I say good luck. Firstly, you would need a tire profile of at least 15 (which is currently the lowest profile) and those only come with a 385mm wide tire suitable for a car like a Ferrari. Other option is to stretch a tire, but that will NOT satisfy the load rating. Don't really have my option except to forget about it, unless you want to look like this: If you want to read over our previous discussions: just wonderin.....

Actually, if you wanted to step down a profile, you are best to go to 215/55/R16. This will provide the least difference in rolling circumference. Also a little more common of a tire size.... and it's an available size for Adrenalins :spiteful:. Mind my bias. A good site to check these things is: 1010 Tires - Tire Size Calculator

I use Fuel Doctor all the time mate. Not bad that stuff. When you add the stuff to the tank, whether it be the shock treatment or the 25mL maintenance treatments, you just do so at the bowser. I'm not sure about you, but on my Aurion there is no metal flap. Even if there was though, the long neck of the bottle lets you stick it into the filler neck so if there was a flap there, it would push it down. Emptying a whole bottle of Fuel Doctor through the measuring side can take a good minute to squeeze it through. ... and make sure you get another bottle and do the 25mL per fill-up.

Okay this is starting to just become a circular debate. My last post stated a potential situation: That is to say, should an accident ever occur and the other party blames it on your headlights, then yours get checked, etc, etc.... THEN that is something you'll need to bear. I'm not saying that it is always a problem, I'm just saying that you are using those HID's at your own risk. From reading how you are discussing it, I don't think you are getting the main point of this discussion. The point we are saying is that it is an illegal modification, and this means that there is always the possibility that your insurance may be void. This was stated way back at the beginning from Colonel: See the key words here are 'if' and 'may' etc, not 'will'.

Take care mate. Good work on being the first on the boards here to crack open the Aurion headlight and paint it. All the best for the future.