DJKOR

The start buttons they are referring to here are purely just for looks. There is no real purpose to them. A true keyless ignition would be much better. It requires a bit of work to tie it in but it can be done for under $150. I've got one in planning, but am just a bit lazy at the moment.

Ash approves, LOL: how is it possible that someone who drives a toyota, let alone a TRD be so unclassy? how can they put "DVS" plates on that car!? almost as bad as those "NV" plates.. :(

Wow! That was sudden news. Great purchase though. Let us know how it goes.

Wouldn't have a clue sorry. Just explain it to them and they should understand. They should do the trick, but you get what you pay for. For example, my Chinese unit has a pretty crappy UI and the screen gets washed out in bright sun. Either or. Depending on where I am. Work varies from day to day. Just PM me once you have everything and when would suit you best, and I'll see if I can work around it.

Welcome mate. From the outside, that Rolla looks perfect.

Since it seems like a random occurrence, I wouldn't worry too much. It could have all kinds of factors that caused it to do that. If it happens again in the next week, I'd be alert, if it happens a third time, then I'd get concerned. In the mean time though, it wont hurt to give the throttle body and MAF a clean. These could have well been the contributing factors, so you may not ever see the issue again. Is your CAI an oiled filter? If so, these can lead to a dirty MAF over time, and that may be more of the actual cause. Cleaning the throttle body isn't really something that you can overdo. I usually clean mine every 15,000km when I change the air filter. I prefer to use a clean cotton cloth/rag when cleaning the throttle body. Just hold the butterfly valve open and give it a good spray, then quickly get the cloth and wipe as much of all the surfaces as you can. Then get repeat. I then usually spray a clean section of cloth and give one last wipe over everything I can touch in there. Cleaning it won't cause a DTC unless you start the car without connecting the piping to the MAF. No need to go WOT on start. Just try to start it normally, and blip the throttle while you are at it. Let it idle for 30 seconds, give it a rev or two, then stop the engine. As for the catch can, have a look at the residue around the PCV piping to the intake. If there is a fair bit of residue, this could be causing your TB to get dirty, otherwise your air filter may be the main cause for the dirty throttle body. Depends on how dirty the throttle body is really.

I don't see the whole point in spending more than $15-$20 for a switch that's only purpose is to engage the starter motor. Completely useless as well. For the price of that $173 Pivot switch (after all, it's just a push button), I could do a neat push button start for my Aurion which includes remote start. Did the exact same thing on my old Camry for $70, but the buttons weren't anything special.

Nup. It has a 3GR-FSE pushing 235kW @ 6,200RPM and 412Nm @ 3,600RPM. Car weighs 1,550kg excluding fuel, driver, etc... so it's kind of like the TRD Aurion in terms of power-to-weight. The Mark X just makes a little more torque and it comes on a bit sooner. The FR layout would be much better as well, just a shame it comes with auto only.

You would pick those pieces up from Toyota. Never had to get them before so I'm not sure of the costs. Usually I would do the install for a case of beer, but I stopped my big nights of drinking a while ago. Now you'd be looking at a $50 flat rate to fit a head unit including at home service around the Brisbane area. Takes about 30-60 minutes to do depending on the car. New Corolla shouldn't pose any issues.

Are you jsut planning on getting that double DIN one you mentioned earlier? With those, you'll also need to get the pieces that fill the gaps on the side since the Toyota double DIN standard is a little wider than normal. If you get a proper install shop to install it, they should have the pieces. The $200-$300 mark doesn't surprise me. I personally would install a head unit for much less than that, but that's me.

which is why i will never buy an aurion, as sweet as the engine may be... give me a manual, or a way to service the auto, but don't tell me that fluid is good for 100k... You can still have the fluid changed at request. You can even change it yourself if you take the appropriate care to make sure the transmission fluid is heated to the right temperature. Even if the only way to change the transmission fluid was through Toyota, I'd still pick an Aurion over a manual 4 cylinder Camry any day. ---------- Edit: After looking at the U660E service manual again (haven't looked at it since last year when I first posted in this thread), changing the transmission fluid on the Aurion is actually easier than it was anticipated at first. You don't need the Intelligent Tester as that is only used to get the transmission fluid up to 39 degrees before starting the procedure. You should be able to work this out without the need for the IT if you want to change it yourself. Basically you just need to do the following (page 164 onwards): 1. BEFORE FILLING TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID • This transaxle requires Genuine ATF WS transmission fluid. • After servicing the transaxle, you must refill the transaxle with the correct amount of fluid. • Maintain the vehicle in a horizontal position while adjusting fluid level. • Proceed to step 2 if the oil pan, valve body, drive shaft, and/or torque converter has been removed or if the oil seal has been replaced. • Proceed to step 3 if oil leakage has been repaired and if the oil cooler and cooler hose have been removed. 2. FILL TRANSAXLE PAN WITH FLUID (a) Remove the engine under cover LH. (b) Remove the engine under cover RH. (c) Remove the under front fender apron seal RH. (d) Remove the refill plug and overflow plug. (e) Fill the transaxle through the refill hole until fluid begins to trickle out of the overflow tube. (f) Temporarily install the overflow plug. 3. FILL TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID (a) Fill the transaxle with the correct amount of fluid (shown in service manual). HINT: If you cannot add the listed amount of fluid, do the following: (1) Temporarily install the refill plug. (2) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning OFF. (3) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to circulate fluid. (4) Move the shift lever to the P position. (5) Wait for 30 seconds with the engine idling. (6) Stop the engine. (7) Remove the refill plug and add fluid. (8) Reinstall the refill plug. (b) Temporarily install the refill plug to avoid fluid splash. 4. CIRCULATE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (a) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning OFF. (b) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to circulate the fluid. 5. CHECK FLUID TEMPERATURE NOTICE: The fluid temperature should be less than 40°C(104°F) before beginning the fluid temperature check. (a) With the intelligent tester: (1) Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3. (2) Select the tester menus: OBD/MOBD, ENGINE, DATA LIST and A/T. (3) Check A/T OIL TEMP. (4) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature reaches 39°C (102°F). (b) Without the intelligent tester (Using D shift indicator): (1) Connect terminals CG (4) and TC (13) of the DLC3 using SST (SST 09843-18040) - Or a paperclip will do the trick ;) . (2) Move the shift lever back and forth between N and D at 1.5 seconds interval for 6 seconds. (3) The D shift indicator on the combination meter comes on for 2 seconds when the fluid temperature is within the appropriate temperature range. (4) The D shift indicator will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 40°C (104°F) and will blink when it exceeds 45°C (113°F). (5) After confirming that the D shift indicator turns off, move the shift lever to the P position and remove the SST from terminals CG and TC. 6. CHECK TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL NOTICE: The fluid temperature must be between 40°C (104°F) and 45°C (113°F) to accurately check the fluid level. (a) Remove the overflow plug with the engine idling. (b) Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube. If fluid does not come out, proceed to step 7. If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to step 8. 7. ADD FLUID (a) Install the overflow plug. (b) Remove the refill plug. (c) Add the fluid until it comes out of the overflow plug. (d) Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle. (e) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket. (f) Install the refill plug with a new gasket. (g) Stop the engine. 8. AFTER FILLING TRANSMISSION (a) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket. Torque: 40 N*m (408 kgf*cm, 30 ft.*lbf) (b) Install the refill plug with a new gasket. Torque: 49 N*m (500 kgf*cm, 36 ft.*lbf) (c) Stop the engine. So essentially, all you need to do is find a way to measure the automatic fluid transmission temperature in step 5a without the Intelligent Tester, and you can change the fluid yourself. The only reason why I can imagine that step is required is just to save time so you don't need to wait for long for the fluid to get in between 40 and 45 degrees. So long as it's warm and below 40 degrees when you do step 5b, you should have no issues. So there you go. I'll gladly stick with my Aurion regardless of the procedure to change it or whether Toyota say it will last 160,000km or more. I will have it changed when I feel it should be, whether it be myself or Toyota that does it.

I mentioned it before, but you don't tint your windscreen. Not many people these days even tint that upper section anymore. Your windscreen replacement will cover just that... the windscreen replacement. If you have to make a claim that involves them replacing any side windows though that were tinted, then generally they will cover the charge of getting the replaced window tinted.

Oh No, what happen to your car again?? **Car wont start when cold**

First trial it out to see if you can get a GPS signal from there. If you can, and it doesn't have issues while driving, then go ahead and continue with your plans. It would be a neat alternative to put it there. Too bad we don't have a large tray there like the US Gen 6 Camry. Some of the guys over in the States have been mounting theirs in that spot. You can see how they have a large storage box where it can hide:

Well.... he chose to borrow an Aurion and I guess he couldn't resist.

Pics please.

Now it's starting to sound like the gearbox is playing up. It's like you are getting all these different faults. Thought it could be just one that is making it seem like a lot. Either way, taking it to the dealer was the best choice.

Don't worry. Just keep on looking. Not all hope is lost.

I think they are two separate issues as Rowan's cranks but doesn't fire up. DODO doesn't seem to get any bit of engine movement.

Spotted -JC- turning onto the Western Freeway outbound from Moggill Road at 11:45pm last night (35 minutes ago). Once again, didn't notice it was you until your headlights were shining away from my direction. I just remember seeing the front end in a silhouette form due to the headlights and thinking "that looks sweet", then saw the side and quickly thought "is that JC?", then saw the rear and was like "I should have waved".

Good stuff. Just what I wanted to hear.

What's the matter? Too afraid that there won't be much difference in track time once you strap the blower on? $139 can't seriously be that much of an impact. It only requires you to save $2.17 a day from today.

I think I know the perfect place for you to fit in: Click here

Thinking about advertising reminds me of the home shopping ads for things like the 'ab-roller' etc. They come out with some new fancy creation and then completely bag the previous model... which they were marketing like crazy the month before. Makes me laugh at how they still manage to sell heaps.

No worries. Keep us posted on any other changes you make as well.