DJKOR

I think if anyone here had an oil leak on their Aurion or TRD, it would have been mentioned already. I think you may be the first, so we will need some more information. I was reading you post trying to imagine the area you are referring to. I went down to look at my engine to see if it had anything similar and I couldn't find it. Maybe you could post a photo of what it is you can see. I know the supercharger actually lets you see more of the rear bank when compared to the intake on the normal 2GR, so it might be something us non-TRD owners can't see. Is it anything you can see from the attached photo? I know this is a non-TRD engine, but I figured that this engine might have the same 'hole' you are referring to (though I can safely say the TRD 2GR has a few subtle changes). Anyways, is it anything from around this area: I'm hoping the hole you are referring to is not a hole where the hose in this picture is (same place on the TRD). If that is the case, that would be part of your crankcase ventilation and can easily explain the oil seeping out. If by the odd chance that the hole you speak of is it, I would get that fixed ASAP. The other end is connected to your intake just before the throttle body and if there is an open end on the hose there, you engine can be taking in a portion of unfiltered air. Apart from that, that's the best I can think of right now without photos from you.

Yeah I know. Was just backing up my dodgy unrestricted air feed at the front of my intake box. I've had plans to do a full sealed duct to an opening in the front, but it falls under the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" category.

Maybe on a 1.8l 4-cylinder, but on the V6, any power lost by heat in that area alone isn't quite as noticeable. I find the way my intake pipe sits, it brings in sufficiently cool air thanks to it getting a feed of the air before the radiator.

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I can't comment directly for the Kluger, but when you are referring to the other autos you have driven, were they as heavy as the Kluger? Put it this way. If it is rolling back while on a slope, that means that the torque converter isn't wasting a lot of energy during idle in an attempt to keep your car supported on the slope. If it was applying enough power to hold your car on said slope, that means on a level surface, you would be wasting all that energy while you keep your foot on the brake. As long as it's not slipping once you start moving, then I wouldn't be overly concerned about it. That probably isn't the most clearest wording of what I'm trying to say, but hopefully you'll get the idea.

That appears to be the same size as the rear emblem.

So your tossing up whether to remove the snorkel (effectively removing the cold air feed) or buying a $500 CAI? That amount seems a bit expensive don't you think? CAI would be the way to go, but not at that price.

I guess you were right from the start Brad! I believe you now. I was about to say something after seeing that he linked the head unit in his new post. I didn't think about the alarm system post from before. However, I wouldn't say he is a bot. I think it is an actual person making these posts.

Air horn Try searching for just 'car horn' and choose one that fancies you. Anything which says it should be loud should hopefully do the trick. How about something like this. 139dB: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Chromed-Stebel-Naut...93%3A1|294%3A50 There doesn't seem to be much on eBay in terms of loud non-air horns. Autobarn or Super Cheap seem to have more of them.

As Sahara 09 has said above, a faulty knock sensor could be one possible fault. If you have an oscilloscope, you can test for the output waveforms of the knock sensor to see if it is working as it should. More basically, you can perform an initial test of them for their standard resistance with a multimeter before connecting an oscilloscope to see if it is stuffed in the first place. The 2GR-FE Engine Control Systems service manual has some diagnostic parameters you can look at such as those shown on ES-46 and ES-229 Ideally, the test way to test things like this is with the Intelligent Tester. Only issue like you have mentioned is that Toyota charge to perform this diagnostic. If they then find a fault and you choose to have them repair it, they will then deduct the diagnostic fee from the repair cost.

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What year and how many kms are on it? If you are still under warranty, they should be looking into this and repairing it under warranty. What circumstances cause it to ping? As for getting a wiring diagram or software for the 2GR-FE ECU, you're probably going to have a fun time obtaining that, because I don't think anyone out there has such a thing.

I don't know. All I know is that it was red and had its exhaust cut off at the diff. Seriously sounded like the V8 in the one above.

Good find mate. Has those subtle differences as well (such as the grill) to set it slightly apart from the TRD. Fibreglass as well to help save money.

I'm not sure about you, but I get this impression that she ain't a bored out VG30DE: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!On a side note, there was a turbo V6 one down at the drifts on Friday and damn it had the grunt of a V8. Was pure aggression listening to that thing.

I also agree with you on that one. It is all personal opinion though. The way I see it, is that there is no point making your car look like the higher spec if it isn't going to perform like it. You're better off buying the higher spec instead. That said, I am completely for making a lower spec model perform the same or greater than the higher spec, but still retaining the styling of the lower spec (sleeper). That is a different story altogether. On a side note, I guess one thing that sets the TRD apart is that it is the only Aurion that is worthy of a TRD badge because it actually was developed by TRD. Not having a go at others that attach TRD badges to their cars, but the Aurion is just one car you can't do that to without running everything the real one does.

Only really needed if you have leather seats though since our winter can get pretty cold. I'd just rip it out and move them to the rear seats. Would be more effective then.

Sound like someone is getting ideas.

With the metal locking tabs, you can usually do one of two things to make them hold when it all feels a little loose. You can either try to spread the metal 'arrows' apart (whilst not attached to the wiper), or you can push the tabs on the wiper itself closer together to provide a firmer hold. They just need to grab enough to prevent them from coming out if gently pulled. This will save them from coming out accidentally and having the wiper scratch your windscreen. As for cutting it all to size, you usually cut the entire wiper blade (plastic backing and rubber/silicone blade) to the same size Any length of blade protruding further than the plastic backing doesn't really have any wiping effect.

^ I really liked Gran Torino. Had some funny quotes in it that really cracked me up the way Eastwood says them. Good addition there.

^ I would have to place my dollars on Farnsworth. He's just that slightest bit ahead of Burns.

Was probably a good idea I didn't come then. I get a bit carried away with mountain runs, and with QR coming up in two months, I can't afford to wreck this set of tires.

You're not going to earn any friends here by speaking like that. DJKOR is a very respected member of our community and has given A LOT in terms of knowledge to all of us. Thanks man. I didn't want to question with the language barrier so I just let it be. I'm with SupaTouring on this one. Because the TRD is limited in nature, the owners of them should be more concerned about keeping it as such and not aiding towards stock depletion. It has been seen that there are Thai kits that look like the TRD Aurion kit and it would probably be best for anyone that wants the TRD look, to go for this option instead. The way I see it for those overseas who don't have the TRD Aurion.... too bad, so sad.

You need to define the circumstances which you define as constant hard braking when compared to what you will be putting them through. The DBA's handle quite a high load, but as with any rotors, giving them sufficient cooling and ample opportunity to cool down is the most crucial part in preventing them from warping.

Oh man, that brings back memories of my first time in IRC. I joined in a room and someone said the same thing. I paused for a moment wondering what it meant and after about 20 seconds they asked again and I was really puzzled. And that's how it all began.